
HOSE KNITTING ROOM, AUTOMATIC SEAMLESS MACHINES 
Lawrence Mfg. Co. 



Knitting 



A Manual of 

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION IN THE MECHANICAL DETAILS OF ALL TYPES 

OF KNITTING MACHINERY, THEIR OPERATION, 

ADJUSTMENT, AND CARE 



By M. A. METCALF 

Managing- Editor, "The Textile American' 



ILLUSTRATED 



CHICAGO 
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 
l| 1909 



/ 

\9 <;, 



/^ ^ 



•library of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

tWAK 22 iy09 

. Copyrignt untry 



Copyright 1908 by 
American Schooi. of Correspondence 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 
All Rights Reserved 




For e\vord 







^HE Textile Industry has shared to such an extent the 
modern tendency toward specialization, and has been 
marked by the development of such a multiplicity of 
types of machinery and special mechanical and chem- 
ical processes, that the various branches of this great 
industry to-day constitute in reality distinct though closely re- 
lated arts. The present volume is intended to furnish a com- 
prehensive treatment of the important subject of Knitting, and 
to serve as a practical working guide to all details of this rap- 
idly developing branch of the modern textile industry. 

CL Special stress is laid on the practical as distinguished from 
the merely theoretical or descriptive form of treatment, the 
work being based on a careful study of machinery, conditions, 
and needs as developed in the best American mills. 

C This volume will be found especially adapted for purposes 
of self -instruction and home study. Covering fully the mechan- 
ical details of all types of knitting machinery and their opera- 
tion, adjustment, and care, it is fitted not only to meet the 
requirements of a manual of instruction for the beginner, but 
also to serve as a reference work replete with information and 
suggestions of the utmost practical value to the most advanced 
and experienced worker. 



C The method adopted in the preparation of this volume is 
that which the American School of Correspondence has devel- 
oped and employed so successfully for many years. It is not an 
experiment, but has stood the severest of all tests — that of 
practical use— which has demonstrated it to be the best method 
yet devised for the education of the busy workingman. 

C For purposes of ready reference, and timely information 
when needed, it is believed that this volume will be found to 
meet every requirement. 




Table of Contents 



Spring and Latch Needle Knitting Machines . . . Page *11 

Classification of Knit Goods (Flat, Ribbed, Hose) — Cylinder Spring Needle 
Knitter — Cone Winding — Spindle Drive — Building Motion — Endwise Motion — 
Stop Motion — Tension — Friction Cone Drive — Knitting Yarn Tables and Cal- 
culations — Woolen Run and Cut Systems — Yarn Reel — Worsted Count System 
— Leaded Needle — Trick Needle — Overliead and Inside Drive — Flat, Bacliing, 
and Rib Knitters — Needle Mould — Take-Up — Outside Circles — Inside Circles — 
Burs (Feed, Backing) — Feeds (Plain, Single and DouI)lo I'lush) — Speed — 
Gearing Table — Sizes for Flat Goods — Starting Up and Adjusting — Setting 
Trick and Leaded Needles — Threading — Evils to Avoid — Evening the Stitch — • 
Plated Work — Cut Presser Work — Collarette — Backing Cloth — Latch Needle 
Knitters (Flat or Straight, Circular) — Plain and Automatic Machines — 
Circular Knitters (Revolving and Stationary Needle Cylinders, Flat-Head)^ 
Measurement of Knitting Machines — Rib Knitting — Half-Cardigan or Royal 
Rib Stitch — Full Cardigan — Universal Cone Winder — Circular Rib Knitters — ■ 
Revolving Needle Cylinders — Automatic Knitting Mechanism — Bobbin Rack — 
Hole and Bunch Detector — Stitch Formation — Shortening apd Lengthening — 
Loading L^p the Needles — Tuck Stitch — Making a Loose Course — Chain Actu- 
ating Mechanism — Stationary Needle Cylinder Knitters — Adjusting Feed — ■ 
Number of Needles — Leighton Flat-Head Latch Needle Knitter — Shogged 
or Racked Stitches — Separating Course — Tuck or Royal Rib — Welts — Flat or 
Straight Latch Needle Knitters — Lamb Knitting Machine — Tubular or Cir- 
cular Web— Double Flat Web or Afghan Stitch — Ribbed or Seamed Flat Web 
— WMde Flat Web — Short Carriage Machine — Setting Up Work for a Mitten — 
Knitting Gloves and Socks — Narrowing 



Hosiery Knitting Page 205 

Circular Latch Needle Knitters ( Hand, Semi-Automatic, Three-Fourths Auto- 
matic, Full Automatic, etc.) — Branson Hand Machine — Branson Full Auto- 
matic Machine — Acme Type of Knitter — Ribbing Machine — Hemphill Full 
Automatic — Fancy Hosiery Knitting — Split-Foot Hosiery — Open-Mesh-Work 
Stockings — Straight Hosiery Frames — "Cotton" Type Flat-Bed Machines — 
Lace Effects — Open-Work Attachment 



Knit Goods Finishing Page 295 

Ready-Made (iarment Industry — Knitted Und(n'\vear — Finishing Flat (ioods — 
Turning the Clotli — Cutting to Shape — Equipment and Arrangement of Finish- 
ing Room — Willcox &. Gibbs "Overlock" Machine — "Union Special" System — 
Seaming and Trimming Machine — Finishing Machine Table — Neck Marker — 
Lock, Double Chain, and "Overlock" Stitches — Covering Stitch — Crochet Ma- 
chine — Merrow Finishing Machines (Scallop or Shell Stitch, Trimming and 
Over-Seaming) — Binding, Strapping, Zigzag, Necking, Taping, Hemming, and 
Looping or Turning-Off Machmes — Brushing and Napping 



Index ' Page 371 



*For pr.ge numbers, see foot of pages. 




CIRCULAR SPRINGbBEARD NEEDLE LOOP WHEEL MACHINE FOR MAKING PLAIN WEBBING 

Tompkins Bros. Co. 



KNITTING. 

PART I. 

CYLINDER SPRING NEEDLE KNITTING. 

There are several kinds of knitted fabrics made in knitting 
mills, each kind requiring a radically different machine to produce 
it. What are commonly called Flat Goods are knit on Circular 
Spring Needle machines. Ribbed Goods are knit on Circular Latch 
Needle Machines. Shirt borders or rib tails, shiit cuffs or ribs, 
and drawer bottoms or ribs with selvedge edge, welt and slack 
course, are made on Straight Spring Needle Rib Machines, though 
some ribs for sleeves and drawer legs are made on small circular 
latch needle machines. Full Fashioned Underwear is made on 
Straight Spring Needle Machines provided with means for narrowing 
or shaping the garment to fit the body and limbs. The latest type 
is for knitting Ribbed Goods on a Circular Spring Needle Rib 
Machine. Hose is knit on Circular Latcli Needle Machines gen- 
erally, but of a different type than the machines for knitting Ribbed 
Underwear. Full P'ashioned Hose is knit on Straight Spring 
Needle Machines with widening and narrowing devices for shaping 
the stocking, and Straight Latch Needle Machines. 

It is evident from the above that knitting may be classified in 
a general way under three headings, viz : — 

Flat Goods. 

Ribbed Goods. 

Hose or Stockings. 

The first two classes include men's shirts and drawers, and 
ladies' vests and pants ; the third class including full length and 
half hose, full fashioned, shaped or cut, and seamless. A knitter 
should be well skilled in the art of knitting in all three classes to 
be competent to fill the best positions and obtain master's pay. 

THE CONE WINDER. 

The soft yarns, wool and mixtures and the backing yarns for 
cotton faced ribbed goods, are usually prepared, picked, carded 



11 



KNITTING. 



and spun in the mill where they are knit up. Hard or cotton 
yarns are in most cases purchased in the market, — such yarns 'are 
used for ribbed goods, balbriggans, etc., — but both kinds come to 
the knitter on jack bobbins or cops, and to facilitate the knitting 
are wound ofE on a much larger bobbin called a winder bobbin. 
The greatest care should be taken to have the yarn in the best 
possible condition on these bobbins. One of the most important 
factors in the production of knit goods is the proper presentation 
of the yarn to the knitting machine. 




Fig. 1. (Joue Wiudei'. 

Winding. When an end breaks down on a winder, tlu^ oper- 
ator should not be allowed to flip the end on to the partly wound 
bobbin and let it go, because the result is almost sure to be a press- 
off when the yarn runs out on the knitting frame, especially when 
the knitting frame is not provided with automatic stops. The 
operator should be made to find the ends and tie them together in 
a small neat knot, and without forgetting to pull the ends through 
and break them off at the proper distance from the knot. If it is 
improperly or carelessly tied, leaving the ends in the knot, it leaves 
a loop and a larger knot, making a bunch in the yarn that will 
cause holes in the cloth and oftentimes break a number of needles 
— what the knitters call a " smash." If the knitter insists that the 
winders run the yarn through the scrapers on the winder, and tie 



IS 



KNITTING. 



every broken end properly, lie will avoid many a hole in the cloth, 
break less needles and get a larger production of better fabric. 
The winding is the last handling of the yarn before it goes into 
the knitting needles and the real operation where the keenest in- 
spection can be made. All the defects as seeds, sticks, knots, 
lumps, slugs, etc., that are removed in this process will materially 
affect the quality of the fabric, the production, and tlie cost of 
repairs, the three prime objects that must be kept in view to excel 
in the art of knitting. 

Fig. 1 gives a comprehensive view of a Payne Cone Winder, 
winding from cop to knitting or winder bobbin ; they are easily 
changed to wind from jack bobbin or skein. It is practically 
automatic, requiring but little attention from the operator except 
to replace the empty cops, tie the ends and remove the filled bob- 
bins. As each spindle is independent and has its own stop 
motion, each bobbin is of course independent of the others and 
when filled may be stopped, taken off and another started in its 
place without stopping any of the other bobbins. This permits 
continuous winding. 

The filling or building motion to each spindle adjusts itself to 
fine or coarse yarns without attention of the operator so that sev- 
eral different numbers of yarn can be wound on different bobbins 
at the same time if required. If the winder is kept in good order, 
the yarn will come off the bobbin when fed into the knitting ma- 
chine with an almost constant tension instead of coming off two 
or three turns at a time in which case it is liable to catch and 
make bad places in the cloth, break the yarn, break needles and 
cause other annoyances. The winder bobbins should be handled 
with care after being filled on the winder to preserve their initial 
shape and the lay of the yarn, and thereby ensure a free delivery 
of the yarn when delivered to the needles. 

When tliis machine is set up it should be leveled and belted 
to run the receiving shaft 1<>0 to 180 revolutions per minute. 
Particular pains must be taken to see that an uneven floor or other 
causes do not throw the machine out of alignment ; if it does then 
it must be shimmed up until level its entire length. When the 
cone winder is taking more power to run it than seems necessary, 
it will be found in most every case to be out of alignment and 



13 



KNITTING. 



immediate attention to putting it into line will usually remedy the 
difficulty. The machines vary in size from six to forty-eight 
spindles as required, and may be adjusted to wind a bobbin fiom 
four to six inches in diameter 17 inches high, leaving the top, cone- 
shaped, as observed in Fig. 2. 



r 





Fig. 2. Winder Bobbin, Empty and Filled. 

The action of the cup attached to the filling or building rao- 
tion controls the diameter of the bobbin, four to six inches as pre- 
determined, or any size between. The building motion has a rise 
and fall corresponding to the height of the cone-shaped part of the 
empty bobbin and maintains that same rise and fall until the bob- 
bin is filled. Tensions are so regulated that the yarn may be 
wound as tightly at the nose or small part of the bobbin as at the 
base or large part. 



M 



KNITTING. 



Spindle Drive. The top of the machine, between the rails 
that move up and down, is covered with Ught boarding ; just be- 
neath this covering is the receiving shaft extending the full length 
of the machine, on which are the band pulleys driving the spin- 
dles ; each pulley has a double groove, as it drives a spindle on 
either side of the machine, transmitting with a round cotton band- 
ing, a separate band to each spindle, as in Fig. 3. 

Building Motion. At one end of the shaft is the receiving 
pulley ; at the other end is another pulley also outside of the frame, 
for transmitting power to the building motion inside the lower 
part of the machine as in Figs. 4 and 5. In a bearing fastened to 




^= 



3 



¥ig. 3. Spindle Drive Showing Pulleys and Bands. 

the end of the frame is a jackshaft on which, outside the end frame 
and close })eside the belt pulley, is a pinion gear meshing into a 
wheel gear that drives, on its shaft inside the frame, an unusual 
arrangement of gears — double gears — so arranged that the teeth 
on one pair are just lialf the distance of one tooth ahead of the 
other pair. Such an arrangement serves to matei'ially lessen the 
back-lasli that must inevitably occur were but one pair of gears 
only employed. This system of gearing transmits motion to the 
heart cam shaft that gives the rise and fall to the building motion. 
The reversing at each end of the stroke is attended in similar 



16 



KNITTIN(i. 



mechanisms with more or less hack-lash which in this machine is 
controlled by this double gear arrangement. 

M Q- 




Tbo heart cam Fig. 6 has a long and sliort side, imparting to 
the, bnikling rail a slow rising movement, making a close wind on 
the bobbin and a quick falling movement which lays the yurn 



16 



KNITTING. 



across the close wind and binds it in a manner best adapted for 
use on a knitting frame. The building rail, see Fig. 4, is con- 
nected with the heart cam in the following manner : By action 
of the cam, a lever on a rockshaft parallel to the cam shaft, with 
a cam roll near the vibrating end is made to transmit its motion 
by means of a chain belt attached to the above lever and running 
over an idler wheel to connect it with another rockshaft lever 
at right angles with the cam shaft. On this rockshaft another 




Fig. 5. End View of Cone Winder. 

lever, connected by upright rods to the building rail, gives to it a 
rise and fall corresponding to the height of the cone-shaped por- 
tion of the winder bobbin. On a third lever of this rockshaft is a 
ball weight to equalize the motion, balance the weight of the cup 
rail or l)iiilding rail, and thereby relieve the heart cam of exces- 
sive wear when lifting the rail. The upright rods to the building 



17 



10 



KNITTING. 



rail are near each end of the rail ; the rockshaf t with lifting rod 
lever and ball counterweight is consequently duplicated at the 
opposite end of the machine, the rockshaft being connected with 
rod and levers. The upi-ight rods are not connected to the levers, 
but, having a broad heel, ride easily on a small roller wheel in the 
ends of the levers. This arrangement permits a free sweep of the 
levers with a minimum of friction. 



> 




Fig. (i. Heart Cam. 

The Spindles are properly stepped and run in oil with a cap 
closely fitted to the spindle and covering the step to keep out grit 
and lint. If the caps are kept in position the steps will last a 
long time. About eight inches above the step rail just beneath 
the board covering is the bolster rail witli the spindle bearing. 
Just above the covering, fastened to the spindle with a, taper bear- 
ing, is a flange on which the bobbin rides, held on b}' the spindle 
piojecting up into the hole in the bobbin made for that purpose. 
On that part of the spindle between the step and the upper bear- 
ing is fastened the whorl for belting the spindle. 

The jack bobbins or cops are placed in their position just 
under the cotton friction or cleaner rail. The yarn passes from 
the cop or jack bobbin through the inside curl of the double quirl 
guide wire, is wound two or three times around the wire as the ten- 



18 




Z c« 



KNITTING. 



11 



sion may require or the strength of tlie yarn permit ; then through 
the outer curl, over the felt on the cotton friction rail, into the por- 
celain pot eye guide, through the scraper guide, up to the porce- 
lain guide attached to the friction cup on the screw spindle ; then 
thrown around the cloth covered part of the winder bobbin to 
which it clings and thereby gets its start. When the yarn has 
builded the bobbin to the required diameter at its base the yarn 
will rub against the cup, Fig. 7, move it around and up on the 
screw spindle ; as the yarn guide is attached to the cup, the yarn 
is raised with it and consequently does not wind on the bobbin as 
far down on its next descent with the ])uilding rail when this oper- 
ation is repeated. The cup, and the yarn with it, moves up grad- 
ually until the bobbin 
is full to the top of the 
spindle leaving the top 
in the shape of a cone 
just as it has builded it 
all the way up. It takes 
its form from the conical 
shape of the empty bob- 
bin at its base, shown at 
Fig. 2, and is made to 
build in that manner be- 
cause the yarn comes off the bobbin in the most approved manner 
for knitting machine purposes. 

The screw on which the cup moves is a ratch screw thread, 
flat on the upper side and V shaped on the lower ; the cup is not 
tapped out but has a blade held in place by means of a spring, 
and meshing into the screw thread. This permits of the cup 
being raised with the thread or, in case of a bunch or large place 
on the bobbin, to slip up an extra tooth or be quickly raised out 
of harm's way in case of accident. When the bobbin is filled the 
cup is easily lowered to the starting point by a slight pressure of 
the thumb on a small lever on the blade while grasping the cup 
in the same hand. 

Endwise Motion. The cotton friction, or cleaner-rail, has 
pieces of felt or flannel about three inches wide, attached to that 
part over which the yarn runs, to make friction, thereby increas- 




Fig. 7. Cup and Thread Guide. 



91 



12 



KNITTING, 



ing the tension and incidentally helping to cleanse the yarn. In 
order that the yarn may not run in one crease on the felt the rail 
is made to move slowly endwise back and forth, and to oscillate a 
little ; the latter motion is imparted by the suitably connected 
rocksliaft levers. 

The mechanism for impaiting the endwise motion, Fig. 8, is 
attaclied to tlie building rail on the receiving pulley end of the 
machine from which it gets its movement. The friction rail is 
supported at each end by trunnions on which it oscillates. These 
trunnions are made long to allow for the endwise movement in 
their bearings, with extra length on the end that carries the end- 
wise mechanism. A ratchet wheel turning on the trunnion is 



rf?" 




Fig. 8. Endwise Motion. 

connected with the building rail and turns it with a worm gear 
running on the same trunnion. The worm causes to revolve a 
wheel gear to which is attached a rod connecting it with the cot- 
ton friction rail in a manner to impart to it a slow motion back 
and forth. These two motions prevent wearing the friction felts 
in only one place and thus assists in cleansing the yarn. 

The Stop notion is directly under that part of the bottom of 
the winder bobl^in that projects over the flange, and is operated 
by pulling out the wire with a round eye that projects just beyond 
and below the rails beside and near the top of the cop (see Fig. 
1). This action raises the winder bobbin from the flange and 
prevents it from revolving. Each bobbin has its own stop motion 
and consequently any bobbin may be stopped without stopping 



29 



KNITTING. 



13 



any of the others. As the building cup of each bobbin is also in- 
dependent, one may be partially or almost filled and another just 
being started. The building cup also adjusts itself to line or 
coarse yarns so that several numbers can be wound at the same 
time if required. 

The Tension is regulated to draw loosest on woolen yarn at 
the largest part of the bobbin and to tighten gradually as the yarn 
nears the smallest part or nose, because the larger the diameter 
the faster the yarn travels and vice-versa. To help regulate this 
matter a rail, with a porcelain pot eye guide for each thread, be- 
tween and nearly on a level with the cotton friction rail and the 
cup rail, is supported by connections with the ball lever rock- 
shafts at such a point as to give a 
certain amount of rise to the pot- 
eye guide. 

The Scraper Guide, Fig. 9 
is stationary. It is a small cast- 
ing having on the front side two 
blades, one adjustable. Between 
these blades the yarn passes, and 
as the slot between is adjusted to 
about the size of the yarn they act 
as a cleanser. If any foreign sub- 
stance such as straws and seeds 
adhere to the yarn or lumpy places 
appear, the scraper helps to re- 
move them. On the back of the 
scraper a porcelain guide is secured in the casting. When the 
yarn is being wound around the largest part of the bobbin the 
pot eye rail is at its lowest point; as the yarn builds higher on 
the bobbin the pot eye guide rail rises and gradually increases the 
tension by making a sharper angle between itself and the scraper 
guide, thereby increasing the friction on the yarn. 

The Evans Friction Cone Drive is oftentimes applied to 
Winders to equalize the speed of winding, and by this means 
wind as fast at the small end or nose of the bobbin as at the 
large end or base. The cone drive is shown in Fig. 10 (Winder 
with Cone Drive). It has an automatic shipper X connected 





Fig. 9. Scraper Guide. 



93 



14 



KNITTING. 



with the rockshaft arm of the building motion and so arranged 
tliat the bobbin runs at its lowest speed when tne }arn is being 
wound on its largest diameter and increases its speed in propor- 
tion to the decrease of its diameter, so that the yarn runs at the 
same speed and with more even tension. The leather friction 
band C is shipped from end to end of the cone A B by the auto- 




matic shipper X. The cones should be carefully adjusted so that 
the pressure on the leather friction band, when the cones are at 
rest, is not so hard but what the band could be })ulled through by 
hand, but not so loose that the friction is not sufficient to trans- 
mit tlie power. The cones may be forced together so hard that 



24 



KNITTING. 



15 



the leather friction band will not transmit the power it should 
with proper tension. Too much pressure will make the winder 
run hard and cause trouble with the winding and is entirely un- 
necessary. One edge of the leather friction band should not be 
allowed to stretch more than the other and will not if the cones 
are kept the same distance apart at each end. This distance may 
be adjusted by means of check nuts just beneath the bearings at 
each end of the shaft on the lower or driven cone. If the above 
directions are followed carefully the cone drive will help the 
winder to build a more evenly uniform bobbin and build it 
quicker with less bi'eaking of the yarn in the twits. 




Old Type of Knitting Table. 



16 



KNITTING. 



KNiTTlNQ YARN TABLES AND CALCULATIONS. 

The methods of designating the weight of mule spun yarn 
varies in different localities. The custom in the Cohoes Mills is to 
designate the yarn by the weight in grains of three threads from 
one draw of the jack; that is, after the jack has run back and 
drawn the roving off the spools, spun it and run to the further- 
most point from the drawing roll, which is about 6 feet 3 inches, 
take three threads (from the spindle to the drawing rolls) break 
them off, and weigh them together. The weight in grains of 
these three threads, about 6i yards in length, is the "grain of the 
yai'n." For instance, if these three threads weigh 11^ grains, the 
yarn is classified as Hi grain yarn. 

The Amsterdam method is to take 6 draws. This gives a 
closer weighing than the " three end " method but of course, the 
classification is twice as gi^eat. For instance, 11|^ grain yarn 
Cohoes standard is 23 grain yarn Amsterdam standard. 

The weight of yarn suitable for any particular gauge is deter- 
mined for a maximum by the weight that can be crowded between 
the needles without causing bad work, and for lesser weights by 
the weight of the fabric required. For instance, on an 18 gauge 
machine 9i grain (Cohoes standard) yarn is about as heavy as is 
advisable, and a (12 pound to the dozen) No. 40 shirt may be 
made with it. Less grain yarn may l)e used for lighter garments. 

Appended is a table giving the size of yarn in grains for the 
commonly used gauges and the corresponding weight per dozen of 
No. 40 shirts. 



Gauge. 


Grains 
in six draws. 


Grains 
in three draws. 


Weight per rtoz. 
of No. 40 Shirts. 


24 


n 


4| 


81 


■22 


11 


54 


9 


20 


14 


7 


11 


18 


18i 


9^ 


111 


16 


2U 


lOf - 


12 


14 


2.3 


in 


12 


12 


27 


13J 


12 


10 


30 


15 


12i 



As there are various systems of numbering yarn used in 
different localities, the following comparative tables are given. 



26 


















w ■= 

Ou = 

5 5 

OS 5 

z 



KNITTING. 



17 



COMPARATIVE YARN TABLES. EQUIVALENTS OF DIFFERENT YARN STANDARDS. 









e3 


S3 


.9 
'3 


-d . 


be 




a » 

S a 


bC 

in 


CO * 












2.S 


t^ 


o 


M . 


J3 


a 


P. n 




3 


1'- 


P. 


o 

p. 


^ 


^3 




^ 


tx 



"O so 
* d 



■2 a 



■a SI 



1166.67 


300 


18.75 


145.83 


1 








35.35 


9900 


618.75 


4.42 


33 








625. 


560 


35. 


78.13 








1 


34.72 


10080 


630. 


4.34 






12 


18 


583.33 


600 


37 5 


72.92 


2 








34.31 


10200 


637.5 


4.29 


34 








416.66 


840 


52.5 


52.08 






1 




33.33 


10500 


650.25 


4 17 


35 




12>^ 


K% 


388.89 


900 


56.25 


48.61 


3 








32.89 


10640 


665. 


4.11 








19 


312.5 


1120 


70. 


39.06 








2 


.32.41 


lOSOO 


675. 


4.05 


36 


63^ 






291.67 


1200 


75. 


36.46 


4 








31.25 


11200 


700. 


3.91 






20 


233.33 


1500 


93.75 


29.17 


5 








29.76 


11760 


735. 


3.72 






14 


21 


218.75 


1600 


100. 


27.34 




1 






29.1C 


12000 


750. 


3.65 


40 


7K 






208.33 


1680 


105. 


26.04 






2 


3 


28.41 


12320 


770. 


3 55 








22 


194.44 


1800 


112.5 


24:31 


6 








27.78 


12600 


787.5 


3.47 






15 


22J^ 


166.66 


2100 


131.25 


20.83 


7 




2% 


3% 


27.34 


12800 


800. 


3.42 




8 






156.25 


2240 


140. 


19.53 








4 


26.04 


13440 


840. 


3.26 






16 


24 


I45.a3 


2400 


150. 


18.23 


8 


i'A 






25.90 


13500 


843.75 


3.24 


45 








138.89 


2520 


157.5 


17.36 






3 


*% 


24.51 


14280 


892.5 


3.06 






17 


25'A 


129.63 


•2700 


168.75 


16.20 


9 








24.31 


14400 


900. 


3.04 


48 


9 






125. 


2800 


175. 


15.63 




1^4 




5 


24.04 


14.560 


910. 


3.01 








26 


116.66 


3000 


187.5 


14.58 


10 








23.33 


15000 


937.5 


2.92 


50 








109.38 


3200 


200. 


13.67 




2 






23.15 


1.5120 


945. 


2.89 






18 


27 


106.06 


3300 


206.25 


13.26 


11 








22.44 


15000 


975. 


281 


52 


9-% 






104.17 


3360 


210. 


13.02 






4 


6 


21.93 


15960 


997.5 


2.74 






19 


2834 


97.22 


3600 


225. 


12.15 


12 


2M 






21.88 


16000 


1000. 


2.74 




10 






89.74 


3900 


243.75 


11.22 


13 








21.21 


16500 


1031.25 


2.65 


55 








87.86 


3920 


245. 


10.98 








7 


20.83 


1G800 


1050. 


2.C0 


56 


^OX 


20 


30 


83.33 


4200 


262.5 


10.42 


14 




5 


734 


19.89 


17600 


1100. 


2.49 




11 






78.13 


4480 


280. 


9.77 








8 


10.53 


17920 


1120. 


2.44 








32 


77.77 


4500 


281.25 


9.72 


15 








19.14 


ISOOO 


Ili5. 


2.43 


60 


UM 






72.92 


4800 


300. 


9.12 


16 


3 






18.91 


18480 


1155. 


2.37 






22 


33 


69.44 


5040 


315. 


8.68 






6 


9 


18..38 


19040 


1190. 


2,30 








34 


68.63 


5100 


318.75 


8.58 


17 








18.23 


19200 


1200. 


2.28 




12 






64.82 


5400 


337.5 


8.10 


18 








17.95 


19500 


1218.75 


2.24 


65 








62.50 


5600 


350. 


7.81 




^A 




10 


17.36 


20160 


1260. 


2,17 






24 


36 


61.40 


5700 


356.25 


7.68 


19 








16.83 


20800 


1300. 


2,10 




13 






59.52 


5880 


367.5 


7.44 






7 


io>i 


16.07 


21000 


1312.5 


2.08 


70 




25 


37K 


58.33 


6000 


375. 


7.29 


20 


3% 






16.45 


21280 


13.30. 


2.06 








38 


56.82 


6160 


385. 


7.10 








11 


16.03 


21840 


1365. 


2.00 






26 


39 


55.56 


6300 


393.75 


0.95 


21 




7K 


UK 


1.5.63 


22400 


1400. 


1.95 




14 




40 


.54.69 


6400 


400. 


0.84 




4 






15.56 


22500 


1406.25 


1.94 


75 








53.03 


6C00 


412.5 


0.63 


22 








14.88 


23520 


1470. 


1.86 






28 


42 


52.08 


6720 


420. 


G.51 






8 


12 


14.58 


24000 


1500. 


1.82 


80 


15 






50.72 


6900 


431.25 


6.34 


23 








14.20 


24640 


1540. 


1.78 








44 


48.61 


7200 


450. 


6.08 


24 


iV^ 






13.89 


25200 


1575. 


1.74 


84 


1534 


30 


45 


48.08 


7280 


455. 


6.01 








13 


13.73 


25500 


1593.75 


1.72 


85 








46.67 


7500 


468.75 


5.83 


25 








13,07 


25600 


1600. 


1.71 




16 






46.30 


7560 


472.5 


5.79 






9 




13.59 


25760 


1610. 


1.70 








46 


44.85 


7800 


487.5 


5.61 


26 








13.02 


20880 


KiSO. 


1.03 






32 


48 


44.64 


7840 


490. 


5.58 








14 


12.97 


27000 


1687.5 


1.62 


90 








43.75 


8000 


500. 


5.47 




5 






12.87 


27200 


1700. 


1.61 




17 






43.21 


8100 


506.25 


5.40 


27 








12.28 


28500 


1781.25 


1.54 


95 








41.67 


8400 


525. 


5.28 


28 


5K 


10 


15 


12.25 


28560 


1785. 


1.53 






34 


51 


40.23 


8700 


543.75 


5.03 


29 








12.15 


28800 


1800. 


2.77 


98 


18 






39.06 


89G0 


560. 


4.88 








16 


11.67 


30000 


1875. 


1.46 


100 


18% 






38.88 


9000 


562.5 


4.86 


30 








11.57 


30240 


1890. 


1.45 






36 


54 


37.88 


924(1 


577.5 


4.74 






11 


163^ 


11.51 


.30400 


19U0. 


1.44 




19 






37.6.3 


9300 


581.25 


4.70 


31 








10.9C 


31920 


1995. 


1.37 






38 


57 


36.76 


952C 


595. 


4.60 








17 


10.94 32000 


2000. 


1.37 




20 






36.46 


960C 


600. 


4.56 


32 


6 






10.42 33000 


2100. 


1.30 


112 




40 


60 



27 



18 



KNITTING. 



Woolen Run System. Only the most delicate scales should 
be used for weighing yarn. Fig. 11 shows the kind of scale gen- 
erall}^ used for this work. The beam is graduated into 100 parts, 
indicating grains. Four weights, 100, 200, 400 and 800 grains, 
are furnished with the scale, and appended is a table giving the 
weights of fifty yards of many nund)ers of single woolen yarn, in 
grains. This table is obtained by the following calculation. 

If 1,000 yards Single Woolen Yarn (called 1 Run) weigh 
7,000 grains, (1 lb.) then one yard will weigh j-g^-^ X 7000 
grains = 4| grains, and 50 yards will weigh 50 X 4| grains = 
21 8| grains. If 60 yards single Woolen 1 Run Yarn weigh 2184 
grains, 50 yards Single Woolen 2 Run Yarn will Aveigh ^ X 21 8| 
grains = 109| grains and so on as per following table. 

Weight in Grains, 50 Yards, Single Woolen Yarn in "Runs." 



Run. 


Grains. 


Run. 


Grain.s. 


I 


487.^ 


^>k 


39i| 


5 
8 


350 


5| 


38,V 


1 


291 i 


6 


36U 


i 


250 


6i 


35 


1 


218| 


6.V 


•'•J 3 6 


n 


]9-i<i 


Of 


'i^7 


H 


175 


7 


31i 


n 


159/i 


"k 


30/5 


H 


145g 


7-1 


29^ 


n 


134 ,«, 


n . 


28/,- 


If 


125 


8 


27Ji 


i| 


116J 


8i 


2511 


2 


109f 


9 


24U 


^ 


m 


9^ 


23A 


n 


87 J 


10 


21| 


n 


79j^ 


101 


• 203 1 


3 


7211- 


11 


19ff 


3i 


67A 


iH 


l4 


H 


62J 


12 


mh 


3f 


58^ 


m 


17i 


4 


54H 


13 


i6ii 


H 


51A 


13| 


16H 


H 


48}^ 


14 


15| 


4| 


46rs 


14i 


155V 


5 


43f 


15 


14^5 


5i 


41S 







Reel off 50 yards, and opposite its weight of grains in the 
table will be found its number or run of the yarn. 

It often happens that it is necessary to ascertain the count 
from a small sample of yarn that measures but a few inches in 



28 



KNITTING. 



19 



lengtli. This may be done by very carefully measuring the length 
of the yarn, and weighing it as accurately as possible. Then 
apply the following rule, viz. : Divide the weight by the length 
in inches and multiply the quotient by 1800. Refer to the table 
above for the count or Run. 

Example : Suppose 
30 inches of Single 
woolen yarn w e i g h 
4.19 grains. Then 4.19 
-^ 30 = .1396 X 1800 
= 251.28. Referring 
to the table we find 
that the s a m pie is | 
Run Yarn, a trifle 
heavy, as the Standard 
f o r I R u n Single 
Woolen Y a r n is 250 
grains for fifty yards. 

Again, su})pose that we have 69 inches of Single woolen yarn 
that weigli 4.19 grains. 

Then 4.19 ^ 69 := .06072 X 1800 = 109.29. 

Opposite this number in the table is the count, viz : 2 Run. 

If the yarn is 2 Ply divide by 2. 

4t 44 44 3 44 i4 ''3 

Ag.in : — If 1,600 yards single woolen 1 Run Yarn weigh 
7000 grains (1 lb.) then 1 yard will weigh ^^L^ X 7000 =4| 
grains. 

The number of yards weighing 4| grains is the same as the 
number of runs. For instance 

1 yard of 1 Run Single Woolen Yarn Weighs 4f grains. 




Fig. 11. Yarn Scales. 



u 




" U " 




" 41 


H 




" u " " 




" 41 


2 




" 2 " 




" 4f 


5^ 




" 5i " " 




" 45 


6 




" 6 " 




" 4f 



And thus with all members between and so on. 



Another way to find the number, or run, of woolen yarn is to 
reel or measure off and weigh any number of yards of the yarn 



29 



20 



KNITTING. 



(the greater number of yards the more accurate the result) ; mul- 
tiply the number of yards by 4| and divide the product by the 




^ 



a 
o 
O 



lA 



weight of the yarn in grains ; the quotient will be the number of 



30 



KNITTING. 



21 



runs per pound. For exiim[)le : 9 yards weigh 5 grains, the 
9 X 4| = 39.375 4- 5 = 7| run, the count or number of tlie yarn. 
Or again, suppose 90 yards weigh 45 grains; 90 X -^l = 393.75 
-4- 45 = ''^4 the number of run of the yarn. 

Woolen cut System. If 300 yards Single Woolen 1 cut 
yarn weigh 7000 grains (1 lb. avoirdupois) then 1 yard will 
weigh 3!^ X 7000 = 23-1 grains and 50 yards will weigh 50 X 23i 
grains = 1,166| grains. Therefore, if 50 yards 1 cut Single 
Woolen Yarn weigh 1,1 66 1 grains, then 50 yards 2 cut will weigh 
one-half of 1,166| grains = 5831 grains. 

Hence the following table : — 



Weight in Grains 50 Yards any " Cut" Single Woolen Yam. 



50 


yards l-"Cut" 


weigh 1,166^ grains 


50 yards 


20-" Cut' 


weigh 


58J grains 


50 


" 2 " 


583J " 


50 " 


21 


" 


55|i 


" 


50 


" 3 " 


388| " 


50 " 


22 


11 


533L 


" 


50 


" 4 " 


291i '• 


50 " 


23 " 


II 


50^ 


i< 


50 


" 5 " 


233J " 


50 " 


24 " 


" 


48H 


i( 


50 


6 " 


1944 " 


50 " 


25 " 


•' 


46! 


11 


50 


" 7 *' 


166i " 


50 " 


26 


" 


44f4 


It 


50 


" 8 •' 


1455 " 


50 " 


27 


11 


43H 


11 


50 


" 9 " 


129H " 


50 " 


28 " 


II 


41§ 


II 


50 


" 10 " 


ii6i 


50 " 


29 " 


" 


40i^ 


(1 


50 


" 11 " 


106f3 " 


50 " 


30 


" 


38f 


K 


50 


" 12 " 


97f " 


50 " 


31 


" 


37M 


It 


50 


" 13 " 


89f| " 


50 " 


32 


" 


36H 


II 


50 


" 14 " 


83J " 


50 " 


33 


II 


35M 


It 


50 


" 15 " 


77| " 


50 " 


34 " 


II 


34 H 


II 


50 


" 16 " 


72H " 


50 " 


35 " 


" 


33^ 


II 


50 


" 17 " 


68^ " 


50 " 


36 


" 


32^ 


II 


50 


" 18 " 


6414 " 


50 " 


37 


" 


3lT¥r 


II 


50 


" 19 " 


61 = 3 .. 


50 " 


38 " 


" 


30^ 


■' 



Reel off 50 yards and opposite its weight in grains in the 
table will be found the cut. 

For finding the cut of small samples the rule is the same as 
for the Run yarn, except that the above table must be used for 
finding the cut. 

Example : Suppose 50 inches of single woolen yarn weigh 
3.241 grains. 

3.241 -^ 50 = .06482 x 1800 = 116.67 



3X 



22 



KNITTING. 



opposite that number in the table above, we find 10, which is the 
count or cut of the yarn. 

The number of yards weighing 23^ grains is the same always 
as the number, or cut : thus — 



1 yard Single Woolen Yarn 1 Cut weighs 234 grains. 

2 yards " " " 2" " 23^ " 

3 " <' " " 3 " '^ 23| " 
10 " " '> " 10 " " 23f " 
30 " " " " 30" " 23| " 




French Spun Worsted ; Cop Form. 



The Yarn Reel used in connection with the yarn scales, is 
like the one shown in Fig. 12. This yarn reel is 51 inches or one 
and one-half yards in circumference. The dial is graduated into 

120 parts, and indicates 
the number of yards 
reeled from each spin- 
dle. The yarn guides 
and spindles are so 
arranged that they are 
kept in line with each 
other while feeding yarn 
on to the reel. The ex- 
tra length of the yarn 
guides is of use in in- 
creasing the friction on 
the yarn by making a 
half turn or more around them. In order to lay the yarn flat 
upon the reel, an automatic feed motion is provided, by means 
of which accurate and uniform measurement is secured. Follow- 
ing is a table for numbering cotton, linen, and worsted yarns. 




Fig. 12. Yarn Eeel. 



32 




n 

CQ ft 



S 3 

H 2 



KNITTING. 



23 



Table for Numbering Cotton, Linen and Worsted Yarns. 



No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


5 


1400. 


27 


259.3 


49 


142.8 


71 


98.6 


93 


75.3 


6 


1166.6 


28 


250. 


50 


140. 


72 


97.2 


94 


74.5 


7 


1000. 


29 


241.5 


51 


137.3 


73 


95.9 


95 


73.7 


8 


876. 


30 


233.4 


52 


134.7 


74 


94.6 


■ 9() 


72.9 


9 


777.8 


31 


225.8 


53 


132.1 


76 


93.3 


97 


72.3 


10 


700. 


32 


218 8 


54 


129 7 


76 


92.1 


98 


71.4 


11 


636.4 


33 


212.2 


65 


127.3 


77 


90.9 


99 


70.7 


12 


583.3 


34 


206. 


56 


125. 


78 


89.7 


100 


70. 


13 


538.5 


35 


200. 


57 


122.8 


79 


88.6 


105 


66.7 


14 


500. 


36 


194.6 


58 


120.7 


80 


87.5 


110 


63.6 


15 


466.8 


37 


189.3 


59 


118 6 


81 


86.4 


115 


60.9 


16 


437.5 


38 


184 3 


60 


116 7 


82 


85.4 


120 


58.3 


17 


411.9 


39 


179.6 


61 


1148 


83 


84.3 


125 


56. 


18 


389. 


40 


175. 


62 


112.9 


84 


83 3 


130 


53.8 


19 


368.5 


41 


170.8 


63 


111.1 


85 


82.4 


135 


51.8 


20 


350. 


42 


166.7 


64 


109.3 


86 


81.4 


140 


50. 


21 


383.3 


43 


162.8 


65 


107.7 


87 


80.4 


145 


48.3 


22 


318.3 


44 


159.2 


66 


106.1 


88 


79.5 


150 


46.7 


23 


304.6 


45 


155.6 


67 


104.4 


89 


78.6 


155 


45.2 


24 


292.8 


46 


152.2 


68 


102.9 


90 


77.8 


160 


43.8 


25 


280. 


47 


148.9 


69 


101.4 


-.91 


76.9 


165 


42.4 


26 


269.3 


48 


145.8 


70 


100. 


92 


79.1 


170 
175 
180 
185 
190 
195 
200 


41.2 

40. 

38.9 

37.8 

36.8 

35.9 

35. 



To number cotton yarn : Reel 840 Yards, equal to one skein 
or hank, and opposite its weight of grains in the table, will be 
found its number. 

To number linen yarn : Reel 300 yards, equal to one lea, and 
opposite its weight of grains in the table, will be found its 
number. 

To number worsted yarn : Reel 560 yards, equal to one skein or 
hank, and opposite its weight of grains in the table, will be found 
its number. 

Worsted Count System. 560 yards No. 1 Worsted Yarn 
weigh TOOO grains (1 lb.) 

50 yards of No. 1 Worsted Yarn weigh 625 grains, from 
which the table on page 25 is calculated. 

Reel off 50 yards, and opposite its weight of grains in the 
table will be found the count or No. of the yarn. 

To find the count from a small sample of single worsted yarn: 
Divide the weight by the length in inches and multiply the quo- 



35 



24 



KNITTING. 



tient by 1800 (50 yards reduced to inches = 1800 inches). Find 




the number in the table on page 25 and opposite is the number 
designating the No. of the yarn. 



36 



KNITTING. 



25 



Example : Suppose we have 52 inches of single worsted yarn 
weighing 6.02 grains : Then : 6.02 4- 52 = .1,157, this X 1800 = 
208.33. Referring to the table we find that the size of this yarn 
is No. 3. Again; — Suppose we have 152 inches weighing 1.056 
grains, then 1.056 4- 152 = . 006947 X 1800 = 12.505 ; therefore, 
by referring to the table we find that the count is No. 50. 

Weight in Orains 50 Yards, any No. Single Worsted Yarn. 



No, 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains. 


No. 


Grains, 


1 


625. 


26 


24.03 


51 


12.25 


76 


8.22 


2 


312.5 


27 


23.14 


52 


12.01 


77 


8.11 


3 


208.33 


28 


22.32 


53 


11.79 


78 


8.01 


4 


156.25 


29 


21.55 


54 


11.57 


79 


7.91 


5 


125. 


30 


20.83 


55 


11.36 


80 


7.81 


6 


104.16 


31 


20.16 


56 


11.16 


81 


7,71 


7 


89.28 


32 


19.53 


57 


10.96 


82 


7.62 


8 


78.12 


33 


18.93 


58 


10.77 


83 


7,53 


9 


69.44 


34 


17.38 


59 


10,59 


84 


7.44 


10 


62.50 


35 


17.85 


60 


10.41 


85 


7.35 


11 


56.81 


36 


17.36 


61 


10.24 


86 


7,26 


12 


52.08 


37 


16.89 


62 


10.08 


87 


7.18 


13 


48.07 


38 


16.44 


63 


9.92 


88 


7.10 


14 


44.64 


39 


16.03 


64 


9.76 


89 


7.02 


15 


41.66 


40 


15.62 


65 


9.61 


90 


6.94 


16 


39.06 


41 


15.24 


66 


9.46 


91 


6,86 


17 


.36.76 


42 


14.88 


67 


9.32 


92 


6:79 


18 


34.72 


43 


14.53 


68 


9.19 


93 


6,72 


19 


32.89 


44 


14.20 


69 


9.05 


94 


6.64 


20 


31.25 


45 


13.88 


70 


8.92 


95 


6.57 


21 


29.76 


46 


13.58 


71 


8.80 


96 


6.51 


22 


28.40 


47 


13.29 


72 


8.68 


97 


6.44 


23 


27.17 


48 


13.02 


73 


8.56 


98 


6.37 


24 


26.04 


49 


12.75 


74 


8,44 


99 


6.31 


25 


25. 


50 


12.50 


75 


8.33 


100 


6.25 



CYLINDER SPRING NEEDLE MACHINES. 

There are different types of this style of machine, the prin- 
ciples being about the same bat differing in constraction. They 
may be classified as to method of holding the needles — the Leaded 
Needle and the Trick Needle ; as to the mode of driving the take- 
up — Overhead Drive and Inside Drive ; — and as to the kind of 
fabric made — Flat, Backiiig and Rib. The leaded needle machine 
is the oldest type and in most general use. 

Fig. 13 shows the Tompkins two cylinder leaded spring 
needle machine. The most prominent feature brought out in this 
engraving, besides the general outlines, are the rolls of cloth show- 
ing the direction they take from the needles, the take-up for roll- 



37 



26 



KNITTING. 



ing up the cloth, tlie location of the winder bobbins and the feeds 
taking the yarn from the bobbins and feeding it to the needles. 
The needles are leaded in sections by placing in a mould specially 
made for the purpose which holds the needles securely in their 
proper position while the metal is run into it. The needles being 
in small sections or leads, two needles in a block, greatly facili- 

HEAD HEAD 

i \ 



BARB 



POINT-^ 



-CRIMP 



-EYE 



BARB 



POINT 



1- SHANK 



CRIMP 



EYE 



TRICK 



Sprinfj Needle (Unleaded) Actual Size. 



Trick Needle. 



tates the replacing of broken or worn needles as they are quickly 
and easily placed in position in the cylinder. It is a great mistake 
to neglect the needle moulds and leave them in the care of cai'eless 
hands. If the moulds are abused and the needles made to go 
when they do not just fit, the cloth looks uneven and otherwise 
unsightly, the burs are difficult to set and smashes occur without 
any apparent reason. 



38 



KNITTING. 



27 



The Needle Mould. Fig. 14, used in leading needles consists 
essentially of two side pieces, each having secured to its inner face 
a plate, and hinged by a holt at one end. The side pieces form the 
sides of the mould and the adjacent edges of the plates form the 




Fig. 13. Leaded Spring Needle Macliine. 

front and hack faces of the mould. The sprue is drilled between 
the side pieces at the free ends, and the two needles, held heads 
outward by what is called a " trick " and grooves, project partially 
into the mould at the hinged end. A mixture of lead, antimony, 



89 



28 



KNITTING. 



and tin that fuses readily but is quite haixl when solid is poured 
into the mould, which is then opened, the lead with the embedded 
needles is withdrawn, the sprue is cut off and the leaded needles 
are ready to be clamped in the cylinder. One advantage of leaded 
needles is that the needle being held in the mould by the head and 
middle portion stands true in the lead and consequently in the 
cylinder. An objection is the botiier with the mould, lead and 
needle boy. Faulty moulds will produce altogether too much 
trouble and annoyance to be tolerated, and the knitter who neglects 
them will never excel in the art of knitting. 





Fif?. 14. Needle Mold. 

Needles for backing work should be longer than for plain 
work, the object being to keep the sinker bur from picking up the 
backing. It also distributes the bending, caused by the backing 
bur, over a greater length of the needle and thereby prolongs the 
life of the needle. 

The Gauge of a leaded needle cylinder can be changed by 
having a needle mould made for the gauge desired, or in a trick 
needle cylinder by having a new cylinder or trick-tops cut. The 
gauge determines the closeness of the wales of the cloth and 
the relative fineness of the fabric. The gauge is generally deter- 



40 



KNITTING. 29 



mined, in the old way, by the number of leads contained in three 
inches of the circumference of the cylinder. As each lead con- 
tains two needles it is sometimes the custom or habit to call 
the gauge the number of needles in an incli and a half, and 
other times to call it lialf the number of needles in three inches ; 
but it is not good practice, though equivalent thereto. In some 
localities tlie gauge is the number of needles to the inch, and yet 
again in other localities, the number of needles in two inches. The 
difference in measuring cylinders by different makers, and tlie dif- 
ference in measuring leaded needle cjdinders and trick needle 




Spring Needles Unleaded. 

cylinders, is mostly responsible for this lack of uniformity in des- 
ignating the relative degree of fineness of the fabric. The knit- 
ter governs himself, in the gauge matter, according to the type of 
machine he encounters, and the locality he finds himself in. 

If by the old way (viz : the number of leads in three inches), 
and twenty gauge is required, there should be forty needles in 
three inches measured on the circumference of the cylinder (1 Si- 
needles to the inch). Or if fourteen gauge is required, there 
should be twenty-eight needles in three inches on the circumfer- 
ence (9-| needles to the inch). 

If it- be a 14 inch cylinder, the circumference will measure 
43.98 inches and if it be 20 gauge on the needle Ime, there would 



41 



30 



KNITTING. 



be 586 needles in the needle space around the cylinder. ]f it be 
a 22 inch cylinder, the circumference will measure 69.12 inches, 
and if it be a 22 gauge the needle space should contain 1014 
needles. 

The following table indicates sizes generally accepted : — 



(iauge. 


Needles to 
the Inch. 


St,ubbB Wire. 


Size in Inches. 


30 


20 


(24) 


(.023 to) 






(23!) 


(.0245 ) 






(23) 


(.0255 to) 


24 


16 


(22 1) 


(.0275 ) 


22 


14| 


22 


.029 


20 


13^ 


21 


.0315 


18 


12 


20 


.0355 


16 


101 


19> 


.039 


14 


9^ 


19 


.0415 



To reduce the old gauge to the number of needles to the 
inch ; Multiply the gauge by | ; because the gauge is the number 
of leads in three inches, and there are two needles in a lead. 

To find the number of needles to the inch, the whole number 
of needles in the machine being given and the diameter: Multi- 
ply the diameter by 3.14 and divide the number of needles by the 
pi oduct. For example : Given a cylinder 22 inches in diameter 
containing 1014 needles, how many needles are there to the inch? 
22x3.14 = 69.08. 1014 H- 69.08 = 14| needles to the inch, 
and 14 1 is ^ of the gauge, or 22 gauge. 

To find the number of needles required in the cylinder the 
number of needles to the inch as gauge being given, and the di- 
ameter of the cylinder : Multiply the diameter of the cyhnder by 
3.14 and multiply the product by the number of needles to the 
inch as gauge. For example : How many needles should there 
be in a cylinder 18 inches in diameter to knit 20 gauge cloth? 

18 X 3.14 3= 56.52 X 13i (| of the gauge 20 is 131 needles 
to the inch) = 754. 

Following is a table giving circumferences of cylinders in 
inches from 6 to 35.1 inches in diameter: 



42 




SPRING NEEDLE RIB MACHINE EQUIPPED WITH STOP MOTION 

Craue Mfg. Co. 



KNITTING. 



n 



Table of Circumferences of Cylinders in Inches and Feet. 



Diameter of 


Circumference 


Circumference 


Diameter of 


Circumference 


Circumference 


Cyliuder. 


. of Cylinder 


of Cylinder 


( yUnder 


of Cylinder 


of Cylinder 


in Inches 


in Inches. 


in Feet. 


in Inches. 


in Inches. 


in Feet. 


6 


18.85 


1 57 


24 


75.40 


6.28 


0* 


20.42 


1.70 


24* 


76.97 


6.41 


7 


21.99 


1.83 


25 


78.54 


6.55 


7i 


23 5() 


1.96 


25* 


80.11 


6.68 . 


8 


25.13 


2.09 


26 


81.68 


6.81 


8i 


20 70 . 


2.23 


20* 


83.25 


6.94 


9 


28.27 


2.30 


27 


84.82 


7.07 


9^ 


29.85 


2.49 


27* 


86.39 


7.20 


10 


31.42 


2.62 


28 


87.97 


7.33 


lOi 


32.9!) 


2.75 


28* 


89.54 


7.46 


11 


34.56 


2.88 


29 


91.11 


7.59 


lU 


36.13 


3.01 


29* 


92 68 


7.72 


12 


37.70 


3.14 


30 


94.25 


7.85 


12i^ 


39.27 


3.27 


30* 


95.82 


7.99 


18 


40.84 


3.40 


31 


97.39 


8.12 


13* 


42.41 


3.53 


3i* 


98.96 


8 25 


14 


43.98 


3.07 


32 


100.53 


. 8 38 


14i 


45.55 


3.79 


32* 


102.10 


8.51 


15 


47.12 


3.93 


33 


103.67 


8.64 


15* 


48.70 


. 4.06 


33* 


105.24 


8.77 


Ifi 


50.27 


4.19 


34" 


106.21 


8.90 


16i 


51.84 


4.32 


34* 


108.39 


9.03 


17 


53.41 


4.45 


35 


109.96 


9.16 


17* 


54.98 


4.58 


35* 


111.53 


9.29 


18 


56.55 


4.71 








18i 


58.12 


4.84 








19 


.59.69 


4 97 








19* 


61.26 


5.11 








20 


62.83 


5 24 








20* 


• 64.40 


5.37 








21 


65.97 


5.50 








21* 


67.54 


5.63 








22 


69.12 


5.76 








22* 


70.69 


5.89 








23" 


72.25 


6.02 








23* 


73.83 


6.15 









The riethod of Driving is with a belt attached to a pulley 
at the end of the table on the shaft, and at the bottom of tlie 
frame, that extends the length and projects at either end so that 
the receiving pulley may be driven from either end. On the 
shaft are two pulleys each driving a separate counter shaft — one 
for each cylinder — directly under the table. Each of these 
counters have a tight and loose pulley, for the cylinder is started 
and stopped with a shipper which is mounted on top of the table 
within easy reach of the operator, as is shown in detail in Fig. 15. 
On each counter is a bevel pinion that meshes Avith a bevel gear 



43 



32 



KNITTING. 



driving tlie double pinion shown under the cyUnder. The upper 
spur gear of the double pinion drives the cylinder and the lower 
half drives the center shaft — the vertical shaft shown in Fiar. 16. 




Fig. 15. Cylinder Drive. 



The gear on the lower end of the vertical shaft is hidden by the 
bed plate, but is shown in detail in this illustration. This verti- 
cal shaft drives the take-up, revolves in the same direction as the 
cylinder and makes the same number of revolutions per minute. 



KNITTING. 



33 



The connections from the shipper to the cylinder and vertical 
shaft are shown in detail, and are thus explained : The shipper 31, 
is fastened to stud 24, which turns in sleeve 25, fastened to the 
guide 29, which throws the belt from tight to loose pulley or 
back at the will of the operator; the tight pulley drives the coun- 
ter shaft 18, to which is fastened the bevel pinion 19, with set 
screw 20; bevel pinion 19, meshes with bevel gear 17, which 
drives shaft 10, at the upper end of which is fastened the double 
pinion 8 and 9, shaft 10, runs in sleeve or box 11, secured to the 
bed plate of the machine. Pinion 9, drives gear 7, which is fas- 
tened to vertical shaft 6, that drives the take-up ; and pinion 8, 
drives gear 4, which drives the cylinder 3. 




I'lg. Hi. Cyliuder and Driving Gears/ 

The Cylinder. The cylinder is shown in detail in Figs. 16 and 
17. The holes in the periphery of the cylinder are for the clamp 
screws to tighten the clamps that hold in place the leads contain- 
ing the needles. The drawing on either side at the top of Fig. 15 
show details of the double pinion and the bearing in which it 
runs. 



54 



KNITTING. 



The cylinder 1, is shown in two views — top and side; 2 ia 
the spur gear which is fastened to the hub of the cylinder and 
drives it ; 4 is the clamp for holding the leads ; 6 the washer and 
5 the clamp screw for tightening the clamps ; 7 is an iron ring, 



10 



/O 



7C 



m 

7c= 



So 



JM 



□»»!! 









m 



^^ O O 



rzzi 



J" 




Fig. 17. Cylinder and Parts. 

the bottom spreader, secured to the vertical shaft, and serves to 
keep the web in the cylindrical form in which it left the needles ; 
9 is an elliptical ring, the top spreader, also secured to the verti- 



46 



KNITTING. 



35 



cal shaft which serves to guide the web to the winding or take-up 
rolls and present it in better shape to be rolled up on the rolls. 
Bottom spreader 7, being the same shape as the cyHnder equal- 




Light "Weight Cotton Fabric, 18 Gauge. 

izes the tension of the cloth on the needles at all points round the 
cylinder, while the top spreader 9, shapes and guides the web to 
the take-up rollers so that it is rolled up with the circular rows of 



47 



36 



KNITTING. 



stitches or courses, in straight horizontal lines across the flattened 
fabric. To top spreader 9, is fastened the spreader bow 10, 
which is secured to the take-up and drives it. Tlie drawing on 
the right and at the top of Fig. 17, is a side view of 9 and 10. 




Elevation of Take-Up. 

The Take-Up is an important adjunct to the knitting machine, 
whose function is to take away, or take-up, the web of cloth from 
the needles as fast as it is knitted, and maintain the proper degree 



48 



KNITTING. 



37 



of tension on the needles. To take it up too slowly would cause 
an accumulation of yarn in the needles ; to take it up too fast 
would cause a severe strain on the needles. Tlie effects of either 
would be broken needles, a smash, uneven cloth and possibly a 
pull off. The take-up which is shown in Fig. 18 consists of three 
rollers contained in a frame with connecting mechanism to turn 
them in the required manner. It is suspended to the cross-tree 
extending from the top of the central column of the machine (see 
Fig. 13) by the stationary stud 8, (Fig. 18,) and is driven by the 
spreader bow inside of the web and between the two rods at the 





-"^^ rrhi—, '" r— r 








^&^(^ \^ 


p ^ 


^ N 




Fig. 18. Take-Up and Parts. 

bottom of the frame. The spreader bow is supported and rotated 
by the vertical shaft. The weight of the take-up is supported by 
a hardened rounded steel collar (not shown in the cut) seated in a 
hardened steel cup, 5. This is sufficiently free to allow the take- 
up to move readily without leaving it too free to continue rotating 
after the stop motion has released the shipper. The bevel pinion 11, 
on top of tlie frame takes its motion from the standing gear 9, on 
the crosstree and by means of the crank 32, and spring connecting 
rod 33 and 31, reciprocates the dog 24, engaging the ratchet gear 



49 



38 



KNITTING. 



17, on the end of the upper quartz covered roll 13. When the 
tension on the cloth is rightly adjusted the unnecessary take-up 
motion is absorbed by the spring and as the adjustment of this 
spring connecting rod device determines the degree of tension on 




Take-Up, Outside Drive. 

the cloth v^^hile being knitted, and is a most important factor in 
producing good cloth with a minimum of broken needles, detail 
drawing is given in this diagram. 

The crank connection 32, is attached to tlie upper end of the 
connecting rod 31 ; on the other connecting rod 31, is a cylindrical 



50 



KNITTING. 



39 



spring 32. These two rods are held together at either end by con- 
necting links 28, securely fastened to one of the rods, but allowing 
the other rod to move freely through the other holes in the links 




Fig. 19. Outside Circles. 

when the crank actuated by bevel gear 11, on shaft 10, lifts the 
spring connecting rod mechanism. Spring 33, is so arranged be- 
tween washer 29, fastened to the upper end of one of the rods 31, 
and link washer 28, fastened to the lower end of the other nxl. 



51 



40 



KNITTING. 



that it makes a compensating connecting rod. The lower end of 
one of the rods 31, is connected by means of part 32, and link 26, 
and 27, to a mechanism arranged to contain and operate pawl 24, 
on a ratchet wheel 17, which being secured to quartz covered roll 
13, draws up or takes up the web of cloth as fast as it is knit. It 
is then rolled up on the incumbent wooden roller 12, which turns 
by virtue of its own weight on roller 13. The draft roller 13, is 
held in position by the short pawl 22, engaging with the ratchet 
wheel 17, on the end of the roller. 



t f « 



IpdDoD 




Fig. 20. Sinker Stand Parts. 

When the tension on the cloth between the needles and the 
draft rollers will permit, the pawl 24, engages with ratchet wheel 
17, causing the draft roll to move forward as far as is necessary 
to equalize the strain on the cloth. This tension is adjusted by 
means of spring 83. When the spring is at its full adjusted length 
the tension of the cloth is greater than the resisting force of the 
spring, but as more courses are knitted the tension of the cloth 
relaxes and the ratchet wheel yields to the pressure of the spring 
connecting rod turning the roll, taking up the slack cloth and 
maintaining the proper tension on the cloth between the needles 



52 



KNITTING. 



41 



and the rolls. In the meantime it will be remembered that the 
unnecessary take-up motion is absorbed by the spring. As the 
web is taken up it winds on the wooden roll 12, and when the 
roll is sufficiently large tlie cloth is cut and the roll removed by 
lifting out of the parallel ways on the inside of the frame. When 
it is desired to unwind the cloth, both dogs may be thrown out 
of gear by pushing up the handle attached to the gear cover. 

Outside Circles. Fig. 19 shows two kinds of outside circles 
and links. The smaller of the two is called the slotted circle. The 




Fig. 20. Sinker Stand Assembled. 

link on this circle is adjustable to almost any desired position. 
The larger one is called the dovetailed circle. A stand once set 
on this circle may be moved circumferentially without altering its 
adjustment. The links on this circle are always radial and cannot 
be moved in or out. The narrow link is generally used for plush 
work, the broader one for plain work. The circle is mounted on 
the projections rising from the bed plate, seen in Fig. 16, which 
brings it below the cylinder. The links bolted to this circle sup- 
port the stands on which the outside burs and wheels run. 



42 KNITTING. 



The Sinker Stand Fig 20, is a mechanical arrangement on 
the outside circle for supporting tlie sinker bur and the holding 
wheel. The sinker bur feeds the yarn up under the beards of the 
needles. The holding wheel is so arranged that it projects over 
and inside of the needles opposite the sinker bur and by means of 
the wide flange holds down the clotii to bring it in proper position 
and facilitate tlie action of the burs and needles so that new 
stitches may be formed. 

The sinker stand 1, is secured to the links by the l)olt 2. 
The tube 3, is secured to the stand 1, b}^ means of bolt 10 ; tube 
3, contains shaft 4, on which is spring 5. Wlien the parts are 
assembled the spring 5, is confined between the shoulder on the 
shaft 4, and the collar 8, which is partially inserted in the tube 8, 
and secured thereto by set screw 9 ; the nut 6, is for locking nut 
7, in its proper position. This arrangement is provided to give a 
yielding pressure to the shaft 4, which supports the bracket 12, 
with the stud 14, on which revolves the sinker bnr 11. Bracket 
12, is secured to the shaft 4, by screw 16. The shaft has a rotary 
adjustment, and is adjusted in and out by the nuts on the end of 
the shaft. When a bunch gets in under the bur, tlie shaft allows 
the bur to move back against the spring. After the bunch has 
passed the spring returns the bur to its position leaving the needles 
uninjured. At the top of the stand on the offset directly over the 
sinker bur, is supported the stud 19, which is secured to the 
stand with bolt 20, the holding down wheel 18, runs on stud 19. 

The Presser Stand Fig. 21, supports the presser wheel, on 
the outside of the needles, which holds the beards of the needles 
down over the yarn while the lander bur (inside) raises the cloth 
and lands the stitches on the beards. The presser stand 1, is held 
in position on the link with bolt 2. The tube 3, is held in posi- 
tion on the stand with the screw 4. The shaft 5, is supported in 
tube 3, and the spring 6, is confined between the shoulder on the 
shaft and the end of tube, and is adjusted and set by means of lock 
nuts 7 and 8. At the inner end shaft 5, holds the presser wheel 
stud 13, with set screw 9. This stud is adjustable up and down 
and on it runs the presser wheel. 

Inside Circles. Inside the cylinder and above it is the inside 
plate or ring, supported by four ribbed arms 1, Fig. 22, and secured 



54 



KNITTING. 



48 



to the cylinder stationary stud by set screw 2. On the ring are the 
grij)es 8, which support tlie inside bur arms. The ring is dovetailed 
and each gripe is clamped to it by set screw 4, on the inner end. 



DIt 






7 » 



E 



3x 



s 



y . V. 



/~\ 



iz: 



9 



^C7 
Fig. 21. Presser Stand Assembled and Parts. 

When the screw is loosened the gripe may be moved circumfer- 
entially to any position without otherwise altering the position of 
the bur. The bur arm 11, may be rotated by loosening set screw 



55 



u 



KJ^ITTING. 



5 and allowing the holder 6, to be moved as desired. It can also 
be adjusted in and out with the use of set screw 10, and is capable 
of adjustment up and down by means of the right and left screw 
9. On the end of bur arm 11, is the bur 12. When the web of 
cloth is on the machine the inside plate and inside burs are hidden 
from sight. The bottom stitches of the web are looped on the 
needles one loop to a needle. 



□ \\uu\»r p; 




Fig. 22. Inside Circles Assembled and Parts. 



Burs. Burs are usually made with bronze bodies, though 
other metals and compositions are employed by different makers, 
or for that matter by the same makers. The blades are of steel ; 
hardened and tempered in most instances, but often treated other- 
wise as the style of the bur seems to require, or the fancy of the 
maker or knitter dictates. The bushings are made of steel, are 
case-hardened and removable. The blades not only differ for the 
various functions they have to perform, but differ for the same 



KNITTINO. 



45 







Burs and Parts. 



46 



KNITTING. 



employment according to the ideas of the designer, knitter or 
maker. 

Inside Burs have either a self oiler, or the bur arms are pro- 
vided with oilers that do not require replenishing for two or three 
days or more. This is very essential, for wlien tlie web is stretched 
from the needles to the take-up, the inside burs are only accessible 
in some machines after cutting the web, and difficult to get 
at in any machine. In some machines the cylinder is set high 
above the table to allow the knitter to reach up under inside to 




Backing Bur. 

clean and adjust without cutting the web. In some machines the 
cylinder is close down to the table, but other advantages are gained 
by so doing. 

The Feed Ihirs must correspond with the gauge of the needles, 
and in many cases pei'mit of being changed to any desired gauge 
by removing the hub and putting in another of the gauge required. 
So, too in many cases can the blades be removed in case of wear 



58 



KNITTING. 



47 




^ — p 




^^ 



^zJ 





;^^ 



^ 



^ i3 



0^ 

C7 





m 








o 



Burs and Bur Blades. 



59 



48 



KNITTING. 



and replaced with new ones. In the landing and cast-off burs the 
wings can be replaced when necessary. 

The burs push the yarn into and between the needles and in 
other ways manipulate it until it is cleared off the needles in a 
web. The blades strike the yarn quick and sharp blows and con- 
sequently are a considerable factor in determining the speed of 
running the machine. 

The Backing Bur is for lacing among the needles a thread 
that appears mainly on the back of the wel> 
and is therefore called a backing yarn. This 
side of the cloth is napped to produce a pile 
or fleece fabric, or it may be left as it comes 
from the machine, as the fancy for a style 
suggests. Napping was done in former years 
on the knitting machine coincident with the 
knitting by severing the backing yarn and 
brushing out the loose ends to produce a pile 
or nap, but with the advent of the so called 
" fleece lined " underwear, napping macliines 
^^'ere adapted to do that work, leaving the 
knitting machine to do its legitimate work. 
Tlie usual way of lacing the yarn among the 
needles is to spring back alternate needles 
and lay the yarn in fi'ont of them and behind 
the others. This causes more severe strain 
on the needles than ordinary knitting. 
Another way of getting the yarn into the 
needles is to bend the yarn so that it may be 
placed alternately in front of and behind the 
needles. The style of bur to accomplish this 
object has a plate, to which in the press 
places, are hinged latches or sinkers wliich 
serve to hold back the yarn into the blade 
spaces in order to lay it in front of the needles. A stationary cam 
on the stand beneath the bur secures the opening of these latches 
to allow the yarn to enter the groove in the blades, and the con- 
tact of the needle pushes the latches and the yarn behind them 
into the spaces. On receding from the needles the latches open 




One Lead, 36 Gauge, 
Actual Size. 



60 



KNITTING. 



49 




36 Gauge Cloth (Spriug Needle). 



61 



60 



KNITTING. 



and release the yarn. This bur puts in a loose back and reduces 
the inward bend of the needles very considerably, though the fric- 
tion slightly exceeds that of some other burs and slightly increases 
the side strain on the needles. A close study of the relations of 
the burs to the needles, and their action on the yarn will reveal 




Fig. 23. Feeds. 

much to the close observer and cannot fail to make the student a 
superior knitter. 

Feeds. The large cylinder shown in the cut " Feeds " with 
the projecting collar screws is the needle cylinder. The direction 
in which this cylinder turns is counter-clockwise. Beside the 
cylinder and above it is the inside ring on which are the gripes. 
The center or vertical shaft is seen projecting up through the 
center. 



62 



KNITTING. 51 



A Feed is a group of burs and wheels necessary to the forma- 
tion of a complete stitch, whatever that stitch may be. Begimiiiig 
at the right near the top of Fig. 23 and going counter-clockwise 
around the cyUnder, the cut shows a plain feed A, a single pliish 
feed B, and a double plush feed C The plain feed makes the 
common knit stitch. Ordinary, or flat knitting is made with this 
feed. The plush feeds make what is called backing cloth ; that is, 
a knit cloth with an extra thread looped into the back of the cloth. 
This thread when napped makes a fleece fabric. The face yarn is 
generally of cotton. The cloth is called single plush or double 
plush according as one or two face yarns are employed to make it. 
Almost anything that can be spun into yarn may be used for back- 
ing, such as goats hair, camels hair, etc. Plush cloth knit after 
such fashion is used for cloaks and overcoats, horse blankets, buf- 
falo robes, etc., as well as underwear. 

TJie Plain Feed, A, Fig. 23, a good illustration of which is 
shown on page 60, requires three burs, a holding-down wheel, and 
a presser wheel. The holding-down wheel is the largest of the 
group. Right under the hub of the holding-down wheel is the 
sinker bur; next comes the presser wheel on the outside of the 
needles and the lander bur on the inside of the needles ; next the 
cast-off bur which raises the stitch off the needles. Sometimes 
when economy of space is desirable a single large inside bur is 
employed instead of two burs. 

Knitting machines are usually furnished with four feeds to a 
cylinder, but more feeds may be employed except on small sized 
cylinders. The production of a machine is proportioned to the 
number of feeds. 

Smgle Plush Feed. Single plush is plain knitting with a 
yarn looped in each course of plain stitches. As it is usually made 
it is looped in one stitch, then skips two stitches on the back, and 
is then looped in another stitch and so on, thus making this yarn 
appear on the back of the cloth almost entirely. The single plush 
feed is essentially the same as the plain feed, except that a backing 
bur and a clearing bur are employed in addition to the burs used 
in the plain feed. The backing bur cannot carry the yarn down 
far enough on the needles, so the clearing bur is employed to assist 
it, just as the cast-off bur assists the lander. 

The feed, shown in Fig. 23 nearly opposite the plain feed, is 



63 



52 



KNITTING. 




6-Gauge Sweater Cloth (Sprinfj Needle) Composed of a Doubled 
2 Ply French Spun Worsted. 



64 



KNITTING. 



53 



2. 

o 
O. 

4. 
5. 
6. 

7. 
As 



a single plush feed B. Taking the burs and wheels iu the order 
ill which they properly come they are as follows : 
1. Holding-down wheel. 

Backing bur. 

Clearing bur. 

Sinker bur. 

Presser. 

Lander bur. 

Cast-off bur. 

the liolding-down wheel has to 
cover three burs instead of one — -as in the 
plain feed — it should be larger than that 
required for a plain feed; on the other 
liand the large holding-down wheel will 
answer for a plain feed. 

The backing bur and the clearing bur 
have to be held on to the stud by a nut, 
as sliown in this cut, as the tendency of 
the work is to lift them off the stud. The 
backing yarn is fed into the bur by the 
guide shown. Sometimes the clearing bur 
is supported by a bracket secured to the 
backing stand. A flat presser is also 
shown, but either the large round presser 
shown in the plain feed or the small round 
presser shown in the double plush feed 
may be employed. 

A Double Plush Feed Fig, 23, C, may 
1)6 made from a single plush feed by se[)a- 
lating the single plush feed in the middle 
and inserting a sinker bur, presser and 
lander. It is then necessary to use another 
holding-down wlieel on the original sinker 
stand ; the added sinker puts in what 
is called the binding tliread, and the 
presser and lander are to place it on the beards of the needles. 
As before stated the production of a machine is proportional to 




Oue Lead 7 Gauge 
Actual Size. 



65 



54 



KNITTING. 



the number of feeds theieoii, but it is not good practice to crowd 
in as many feeds as the space around the cylinder will permit. 
In such cases the only space at wliich needles may be removed and 
replaced is at the stop motion, and a smash located at any other 




AAAAMA < - ~ 



17 

=> □ 



19 



ii 



f 


/ 




f 








viiiiin 









X^ 




-XZK. 



^ 



h /o /f? 




Fig. 24. Stop Motion Assembled and Parts. 

place must be moved around to that point, thereby making a bad 
matter woise. Another objection against crowding in too many 
feeds to a cjdinder is that more bi-eaks, bunches, smashes, holes, 



66 



KNITTING. - 55 



etc., appear in pro[)ortion to the increased number of feeds, caus- 
ing an increased number of stops. Every stop lessens production, 
A certain number of stops will soon oifset the increased produc- 
tion of one of the feeds, therefore, it is a matter of judgment of 
how many feeds may be profitably employed — stops, quality of 
yarn and fabric l)eing considered. 

The Stop notion is an arrangement for automatically stop- 
ping the cylinder when a hole in the web appears or an accumula- 
tion of yarn occurs in the needles, and aids very materially in 
preventing a lot of bad cloth and a good many needle smashes. 
On a two-cylinder frame each cylinder is driven with a separate 
belt, to each of which is applied a shipper for convenience in start- 
ing and stopping each cylinder and its take-up, separately. 
When these holes in the cloth or bunches of yarn in the needles 
appear, the stop motion is so arranged that the shipper is made to 
act on the belt, shifting it from the tight to the loose pulley and 
quickly stopping the cylinder. The stop motion is supported on 
a link secured to the outside circle in a like manner as the stands. 
Fig. 24 shows detail sketches of parts, and an assembled cut of 
the Holt stop motion. Number 1 is the stand secured to the link 
screw bolt 2. In this stand is inserted the bearing 3, which also 
provides a shoulder; between it and a pin thiough the round hole 
shown in the spindle 6, is confined a spiral spring. The handle- 
bar 13, after being adjusted to its proper position, is secured to 
the spindle 6, with its set screw 14. At the end of the handle- 
bar is inserted the finger or feeler 15, made very sensitive by 
action of spring 16, inside of the handle-bar directly behind the 
feeler or telltale. Just beneath the feeler and attached to the 
handle-bar by screw 20, is the part 19. When the sensitive finger 
15, finds a hole in the web, or the feeler 19, encounters a bunch 
of yarn or fly in the needles, spindle 6, is rotated enough to disen- 
gage the lever 22, which is supported at the end of the adjustable 
shaft 21. The action of the lever 22, releases the shipper which 
by action of a spring is forced back, and by its connections 
shifts the belt, thereby stopping the cylinder. When the trouble 
is remedied the telltales 15 and 19, are thrown into position again 
with the handle on 13. the lever 22 adjusted and the cylinder is 
again ready to stari. 



67 



56 KNITTING. 



Speed. Such a variety of circumstances are attendant in the 
process of knitting a fabric tliat no hard and fast rule for speed 
can be devised. Though exceedingly short, some intei'val of time 
is required for the easy and perfect formation of the stitch on the 
needle. Wool, mixtures and other soft yarns cannot be knitted 
with the needles running at the higliest rate of sijecd, because 
they are likely to break before the stitch is formed. On the other 
hand the hard twisted yarns for balbriggans may be knit at the 
highest speed because they are strong, and capable of sustaining 
the strain and the quick, sharp blows of the blades of the burs 
pushing, and at liigh speed fairly striking, the yarn between the 
needles in sharp bends. Before the yarn reaches the needles it 
lies straight across tlie bur spaces from one blade to another. The 
needle entering the space presses the yarn back between the blades 
drawing it over the entering blade until the full dej)th of the stitch 
is obtained, while all the time, the yarn meets with tlie resistance 
caused by the blades meshing into the needles behind it. This is 
what is termed stress on the yarn. The face yarns employed in 
making plush are generally very strong, and on them comes the 
principal stress ; but so many burs and wheels are employed on 
this sort of work that a smasli at high speed would prove altogether 
too serious to take tlie chances of the fast running that the 
strengtli of such yarn would permit. 

Common practice is to run a 20-inch cylinder between 40 and 
65 turns a minute. This corresponds to a needle speed of from 
210 to 340 feet per minute. The following table of speed repre- 
sents some customary speeds: 

Gauge. Revolutions. 



Twenty inch 
cylinder 



Wool, Mixtures I 18 45 

Plush I 24 60 

Balbriffs-an I 24 66 



Greater speed than this can, however, be attained wlien all or 
most of the conditions are favorable thereto. Tlie machines are 
geared so that the needle speed is approximately constant for all 
sizes of cylinders ; that is, if the machine is belted properly for a 
20-inch cylinder it will be right for all other sizes of cylinders. 
It is also geared so that for one turn of the receiving shaft a 20- 



68 



KNITTING. 



57 



inch cylinder makes .254 turns. In other words, the mucliine is 
geared about 4 to 1, Four turns of tlie receiving shaft to about 
one turn of the needle cylinder. The receiving shaft should run 
about 240 turns, which will make the cylinder run about 60 
turns. A table of the gearing of the Tompkins leaded needle 
machine is appended. 



Diameter of 
Cylinder 
in Inches. 


Diameter of 

Change Pulley 

in Inches. 


Turns of Cylin 

der to one tun 

of Receiving 

Shaft. 


Diameter of 
Cylinder 
in Inches. 


Diameter of 

Change Pulley 

in Inches. 


Turns of Cylin 

der to one of 

Receiving 

Shaft. 


* 


9 


13/ 


.428 


17 9/ 


.302 


10 


13 


.414 


18 


9 


.286 


11 


vi/ 


.398 


19 


8/ 


.270 


12 


12 


.382 


20 


8 


.2-54 


13 


11/ 


.366 


21 


7/ 


.239 


14 


11 


.350 


22 


7 


.223 


15 


10/ 


.334 


23 


6/ 


.207 


16 


10 


.323 


24 


6 


.191 


TABLES OF SIZES FOR FLAT GOODS. 




Size. 
( Chest 


16 


18 


20 


22 


24 


26 


28 


30 


32 3 

3 


4 36 
4 36 
9 30 

7 18 

4 36 

9 29 

5 15 


38 
38 
31 
19 
38 
30 
1 6 


40 
40 
b2 
20 
40 
SO 
16 


42 
42 
33 
21 
42 
3(1 
16 


44 
43 
24 
22 
44 
31 
17 


46 

4(i 


Men's Flat Shirts 






















35 
























00 




( Waist 














28 
27 
13 


30 

28 
14 


32 3 
29 ■_ 
15 1 
























( Body 


















( Uust 
















30 
30 
15 
30 


32 3 
31 3 
16 1 
32. 3 


4.36 
2 33 
7 17 
1 .. 


38 
34 

18 


40 
35 
19 


















































(Width 


10 


IS 


20 


22 


24 


26 


28 




Bovs' and Misses' Flat Vests 


] Length 


13 


141 


l(i 


i>s 


20 


22 


24 


26 


27: 2 


9 .. 














[ .Sleeve 


7 


H 




10,1 


12 


13 


131 


141 


15 1 


7 .. 














('Waist 










•^4 


?6 


•'8 


30 


3'' 


























18 
10 
1U 


21 

111 

121 


24 
11.1 
13 


14 


28 . 
14 . 
151 . 














Boys' Flat Drawers 


\ Rise 














IBack 














(Waist 


1(> 


IH 


20 


22 


24 


2<; 


23 


















Boys' and Misses'Flat Pantalets 


] Body Length 
( Inseam 


8' 
9" 


9 

lOA 


10 
12.1 


11 

14 


12 
16 


13 
17 


13 
18 



















TABLES FOR SELECTING CHILDREN'S UNDERWEAR, ACCORDING TO AGE. 

SHIRTS. 

Age. Size. 

6 months to 1 year requires 16 

lyeartol>^ years " 18 

1/^ years to 2 years " 20 

2 " 4 " " 22 

4 " 6 " " 24 

6 " 8 " " ." 26 

8 " 10 " " 28 

10 " 12 " " 30 

12 " 13 " " : 32 

31 " 14 '♦ " 34 



69 



58 



KNITTING. 



The cylinders are selected according to the sizes of the gar- 
ments to be made. The following table is for spring woolen under- 
wear weighing about six pounds to the dozen garments : 





Size of Cylinder. 


Size of 




Garment. 








For Shirts. 


For Drawers. 


30 




16 


32 




16 


34 


16 


16 


36 


17 


17 


38 


18 


17 


40 


18 


18 


42 


19 


18 


44 


19 


18 


46 


20 


19 


48 


20 


19 



STARTING UP AND ADJUSTING. 

Setting Trick Needles. Remove the needle plates. See that 
the tricks, both vertical and horizontal, are free from corrosion or 
dirt which would keep the needles from going into place ; or from 
oil, which would work up onto the needle and streak the cloth. 
Place the needles in position, replacing the needle plates as each 
plate space is filled. Take care to place the plates so that the 
needle nearest each end of the plate is securely held. When all 
the needles are in position adjust a stiff wire pointer from the in- 
side plate or heart to the needle line and plyer the needles so that 
they stand horizontally, and so that all just touch the end of the 
pointer when the cylinder is revolved. 

Setting Leaded Needles. Remove the needle plates and see 
that the verge (the part where the leads beai-) is free from corro- 
sion, gum and oil. Lay the leaded needles out alongside on a 
board in rows, having the beards uppermost. Put one plate in 
position but leave the screw loose. Pick up as many leaded 
needles as the plate will cover, place them between the verge and 
the plate, rather low down, and then press gently on the cap. 
They should rise easily into line. Screw the cap down gently and 
then s(^uare the end leads with a small square placed on the ledge 
of the cylinder (the part which supports the plate). Tighten the 
screws enough to keep the leads from tipping. Replace the next 



70 



KNITTING. 



59 



plate ; place the needles as before, pressing them against the pre- 
ceding lot so that no spaces are left between the leads. Square 
the exposed end of this lot of needles. Repeat this around the 
cylinder. The last plate cannot be squared but the first lot will 
keep them from tipping. If a space is left, it may be necessary, 
in order to fill it, to cast a lead with one needle and file the 
superfluous lead away. If the space is less than half a lead, loosen 
all the plates slightly and begin tightening on the side opposite, 




Method of Setting Trick Needle. 

tapping them gently and approaching the space from both sides. 
This should close the space. Very little plyering sliould be 
necessary. 

Bur and Wheel Adjustment. The functions of the burs 
and accessories in forming the stitch should be thoroughly under- 
stood before attempting to set the machine. Briefly, they are 
"these : As the needles revolve, the cloth wheel or cam presses the 
old stitches (looped onto the needles to start with) down to the 
lowest exposed portion of the needle, and holds them there while 
the sinker bur runs the yarn up under the beards of the needles 
and while the presser which follows the sinker closes the beards 



71 



60 



KNITTING. 



at the presser, the cloth wheel or cam releases the old stitches 
gradually, allowing the lander to land them on the points of the 
beards. The cast-off follows the lander and casts the old stitches 
clear of the needles. 

Setting the Burs. Divide the needle line into as many 
parts as there are to be feeds — four is the conventional number 




riaiii Feed, aud Inside Cylinder. 

— leaving room on the front of the machine for the stop mo- 
tion. These divisions may be marked by setting the cast-offs, 
provisionally, placing tlie first one just before the stop motion; 
i.e., so that the needles when in motion reach the cast-off before 
they do the stop motion. When the needle line has thus been 
divided, finish the setting of the first cast-off. Tlie wings should 
reach from below the beards of the needles, but not to the base, 
up a little above the heads of the needles, and should run with no 
back lash. If the bur has back lash (is loose) tip it forward, th'us 
binding it slightly. The ideal position is that in which the bur is 



72 



KNITTING. 61 



tight enough to cast off the stitch evenly without interfering with 
the needles, and yet not so tight as to put unnecessary stress on 
the needles, thus working them in the leads or ti-icks. Occasional 
slugs in the yarn must he taken into account in this consideration, 
as slugs are more difficult to cast oif than the oidinary yarn. The 
bur should come far enough through the needles to even the new 
stitches in the heads of the needles as the old stitches are cast off, 
yet not so far as to put undue stress on the stitches, thus breaking 
them and making holes. 

Lander. The lander is set just ahead of the cast-off. The 
blades should reach as low as possible without striking the cylinder 
or leads, and should carry up far enough to land the stitches a 
little above the points of the beards. It should be loose enough 
in the needles to run without working the needles, but not so 
loose that the entering blade will strike the approaching needle, 
thus cutting the yarn or bending the needle. It is good practice 
to leave enough space betAveen the lander and cast-off to permit 
taking the cast-off from the stud in ortler to clean or repair it. 

Cloth Wheel. The cloth wheel or cmn is set just ahead of 
the lander so that the old stitches will be held down until the 
lander raises them. It should carry the old stitches down to the 
base of the needle, but without putting undue strain either on 
the cloth or on the needles at the fiont edge of the wheel or cam. 

Sinker. The sinker bur is set in the needle space covered 
by the cloth wheel, far enough from the front of the wheel to 
make sure that the old stitches will be carried down before the 
sinker is reached and far enough from the back edge of the cloth 
wheel to leave room between the sinker and the lander for the 
presser. The sinker should be set with the upper part of the en- 
tering blade inclined toward the head of the approaching needle ; 
that is to say, if the needles are moving from left to right, the bur 
should be tipped from right to left, and vice-versa. The extent to 
which the bur should be tipped is dependent on the following con- 
siderations : In the first place the sinker blade is generally a deep 
blade, and but little tip is possible without interfering with the 
needles, which, of course, should be avoided. 

Again, the yarn is looped under the beards by the blades of 
the sinker and in this process the blades have to crowd the yarn 



73 



62 KNITTING. 



between the needles, and a considerable amount of force is re- 
quired to do this. The force is supplied by the needles to the 
bur and in doing so the needles bend a little, allowing the bur 
blades to fall slightly beliind their normal position and making 
interference likely from this cause. Now, tlie position of the bur 
to be sought is that in which the yarn will be surely placed under 
the beards, looped to the required de[)th, and carried well up in the 
heads of the needles, with the least stress on the yarn and on 
the needles and without interference with tlie needles. If the bur 
is tipped too much, it works the needles excessively and is likely 
to cut the yarn. If not tipped sufficiently, it interferes with the 
needles and picks off the beards. 

Presser. The presser should be set to hold the beards closed 
as the stitches are being raised over them. -This space is just a 
little ahead of the center of the lander. Space must be left be- 
tween the presser and the lander blades to allow the rising stitches 
free passage, otherwise, they will be cut. Wlien hard twisted or 
wiry yarn is used the flat presser is frequently used and is made 
long enougli to cover all the beards between the sinker and the 
lander, thus keeping the yarn from dropping out of the needles 
until caught by the old stitches. 

This completes the setting of one plain feed. The other 
feeds are set in the same manner. Before starting the machine all 
bearings should be lubricated and oil cups filled. 

Starting Up. To start the machine take a tube of knit fab- 
ric, preferably of about the width of the fabric to be made, and of 
the same or finer gauge, pass it over the take-up rollers so that it 
will be rolled up when the take-up is in action, throw out the rat- 
chet so that the fabric may be drawn down, and draw it down over 
the spreaders so that by stretching it a little it will reach the 
needles. Then throw in the ratchets in order that the fabric will 
not descend further. Select the needle space that is freest from 
obstructions, generally the stop motion s[)ace, and press the fabric 
near its edge down over the needles until the beards catch and 
hold it from coming off. Begin putting the fabric on near a 
sinker bur and continue in the direction opposite to the direction 
of rotation. 

Threading. When tlie available needle space is filled, take 



74 




E w 



KNITTING. 



63 




Merino Fabric. 



75 



64 KNITTING. 



a bobbin of the yarn to be used, place it on its rack directly under 
the screw eye nearest the sinker stand, pass the yarn up through 
this eye, then through the outer end of the guide and finally 
through the inner end. The yarn should be delivered as near to 
the bur as possible, and a little above the nibs. This necessitates 
placing the inner end of the guide close to the bur and the needles, 
but care should be taken that it is not so close tliat a slight pull on 
the yarn or a bunch on tlie needles will jjull tlie guide against the 
bur, causing it to drag and break needles. After threading the 
guide, draw the sinker bur back, pass the end of the yarn around it, 
and let the bur come back into its position. If the edge of the fabric 
is ragged it should be trimmed with shears, otherwise the sinker 
will pick up these ragged edges and break needles. In any case, 
the machine sliould be turned gradually to avoid pick-ups. Turn 
until more exposed needles are available, and continue putting on 
the fabric. If the first feed is properly set, the old fabric will be 
clear of the needles after leaving the cast-off, but will be held to 
them by a new loop on each needle. When these new stitches 
approach the new sinker, thread it as with the first, and so on 
around. 

Evils to Look for and Remedy. When the fabric is on all 
the needles, turn the cylinder once or twice by hand and then ex- 
amine the new stitches. It will generally be found that in some 
cases one stitch straddles two needles, making a drop stitch effect. 
Hold down the fabric at this place, press down the beard of one of 
the needles and let the stitch off of that one. At the next bur 
the stitch will form properly. If the sinkers are not set deep 
enough the stitches will be too tight and will break. If the press- 
ors are not j)ressing enough the needles will load up, that is to sa}^ 
two or more stitches will be left on the needle. This will occur 
even when the pressers are deep enough, if some of the needles 
are bent inward. If the cast-off is too high it will break the stitch 
in casting off. If it is too low, it will not even the stitch in cast- 
ing off and the fabric will not look well. Remedy all these 
defects and see that everything is running free and the take-up 
is working properly, before putting on the power ; and in putting 
on the power, let it be for half a turn at a time, and keep ear and 
eye alert for trouble. A bent needle or a bent blade, a rough 



l5:NIT'riNG. 



65 



bearing, a misplaced guide, a bobbin kicked out of place-- -any 
one of many little things may let the fabric off the neeciles or 
break a lot of needles if caution is not used in starting. If half a 
turn with power discloses no trouble, try a whole turn or more, 
feeling the fabric frequently to make sure that it is being taken 
up properly. If the tension is too severe it will finally pull the 
fabric right off the needles, and if it is not enough, the push-downs 




Trick Needle Frame. 

cannot keep it clear of the sinkers and a smash will result. 

After running up a little fabric, stop the cylinder and look 
for defects. A high beard will make a long stitch, or a tuck. A 
bent needle will make a line. "N^eedles out of line will make a 
vertical streak of tight or loose stitches according as the displace- 



77 



66 



KNITTINO. 



ment is inward or outward. A short needle will make a line. 
Plyer or remove defective needles. 




Trick Needle Stockinette Frame, Cliain Take-Uj) Drive. 

Evening the Stitch. The stitch should be evened by mark- 
ing each yarn one foot from the guide, turning the cylinder 



78 



KNITTING. 67 



slowly, noting which marks reach the guide first, and shortening 
the corresponding stitches or lengthening the others according to 
the weight of fabric desired. Continue this until all the yarn 
feeds alike. 

Adjusting the Stop notion. Before letting the machine 
run without watcliing, the stop motion should be adjusted so that 
the feeler will enter a hole and stop the machine. Some stop mo- 
tions have a waste claw. This should be adjusted near to the 
needles to catch bunches or thread that stay on the outside of the 
needles. The stop motion spring should be adjusted as lightly as 
possible without making it stop the cylinder unnecessarily. If the 
spring is set hard it will enlarge the holes and sometimes bend the 
needles at the same time. 

Plating. Plated work has one kind of yarn on the face (the 
inside when on the macliine) and another kind of yarn on the 
back. It may be made by using a guide with two sets of holes to 
accommodate two different yarns, the face yarn being the upper 
one as delivered to the bur. Of course when two threads are 
used each should be equivalent to about half the weight of the 
single thread used for fabric of the same weight and gauge. 

A better way of plating is to use two sinker burs to each 
feed and deliver the face thread to the first sinker in order of rota- 
tion, making the stitch of this bur longer than tliat of the follow- 
ing one. Tlie difference in stitch depends on circumstances, but 
from 1" to the foot to 1 1" to the foot is usual. Plated work with 
two burs has some marked advantages over single tliread work. 
A nice appearing garment may be made with expensive stock in 
the face and cheap stock on the back. Tiie sinker burs divide 
the work between them and make an evener stitch and are less 
likely to overreach tluin when one bur puts in the yarn. The 
fabric is generally stronger, having two threads ; it is durable and 
it runs well, and if a yarn breaks the fabric does not leave the 
needles as in single tliread work. 

Cut Presser Work. Designing for the knitting machine is 
analagous to designing for tlie loom. It is obvious from the fore- 
going that if four feeds and four different colored yarns are used, 
the fabric will be striped horizontally in a pattern containing the 
four different coloi's, and this pattern will repeat itself at every 



79 



68 



KNITTING. 



revolution of the cylinder. By increasing the number of feeds, 
the width of the pattern and the number of colors may be increased. 
From this and from the construction of the machine it is evident 
that changes in the yain effect the fabric horizontally or across its 




Another Type of Leaded Spring Needle Macliine. Overhead Take-Up Drive. 
Stands Fastened to Bed of Table. 

length, and that vertical or lengthwise effects must be caused on 

individual needles, for the fabric rises vertically fioni the needles. 

Now, suppose that the cylinder is set up with but one feed, 

this feed having a round presser, and sup[)0se the presser has been 



80 



KNITTING. 69 



nicked on a milling machine so that the nicks correspond to the 
needles and so that each succeeding needle comes to each succeed- 
ing nick. The result will be plain fabric just as if the presser 
were not nicked, but the presser will make a certain number of 
revolutions to each revolution of the cylinder. Suppose that the 
cylinder has GOO needles and the presser has 100 nicks ; then the 
presser will revolve 6 times to one revolution of the cylinder. 
Now suppose one nick is filed deeper than the others so that the 
needle which enters it is not pressed. Then every hundreth 
needle will not be pressed, and at every turn of the cylinder a 
tuck stitch will be left on each of these six needles. If this were 
allowed to continue each of these six needles would load up and 
break, for a new stitch would be placed under the beard at every 
turn, and not being pressed off, would be retained there. The 
tuck stitch is desired in order to get a vertical effect in the cloth. 
Possibly one tuck is required, or two or three, as the case may be, 
but it is not desirable to injure the needle, so at intervals this 
must be pressed off. It may be done in two ways, either by adding 
another feed with a plain presser, or by removing or adding a 
needle. Suppose that another feed with a plain presser is added. 
Then every hundredth needle will have a tuck stitch as it passes 
the cut presser and all the needles will be pressed at the next feed. 
The result will be a fabric in which every hundredth stitch in 
every other course is tucked. These tuck stitches will occur in a 
vertical line at eveiy hundredth needle. The width of this pattern 
is 100 and its height is 2. 

. ( Press 99 Skip 1 Cut Presser. } 

llie ijattern is { ,. f^^ r>i • d } 

'■ I Press 100 Plani Presser. ) 

If tlie plain feed is removed and the original cut presser feed 
is used, this will load up every sixth needle. If one needle, how- 
ever, is removed, then at every turn of the cylinder the skip-cut 
will step one needle ahead, that is to say, one needle farther 
around the cylinder in the direction of rotation. The needles that 
were skipped at one revolution will be pressed the next revolution 
and the tuck stitches will take a diagonal course of approximately 
45°, inclined to the left, upward, as the fabric is viewed on a ma- 
chine that turns from left to right (anti-clockwise). If one needle 
had been added instead of removed, the diagonal would have been 



81 



70 



KNITTING. 




Merino Fabric, Slightly Brushed. 



82 



KNITTING. 71 



inclined to the right, as the presser would then step back at each 
revolution of the cylinder. At every hundredth revolution the 
skip space would' be back to the needle where it started. 

A similar result would be obtained by leaving the needles as 
at first, 600, and making one more nick in the presser, or taking 
one out. The effect of this would be to step forward or back one 
needle at every hundredth needle, one needle at the first hundred, 
two needles at the next, etc. 

The above are the fundamental ppinciples of tuck presser 
work. It is customary to run a plain presser after each cut presser 
for the ordinary forms of work, but of course, any combination 
may be used. To show how the pressers should be cut for any 
desired pattern, take a piece of cross-section paper having as many 
vertical spaces as there are needles in the pattern and as many 
horizontal spaces as there are courses. Number the horizontal 
rows of spaces to correspond to the pressers. For instance, if 
thei-e are four pressers, number the horizontal rows, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 
then repeat 1, 2, 3, 4, to the end of the allotted space. Then 
mark the squares to be tucked. When all are marked the pattern 
for any one presser may be read on the lines numbered to corre- 
spond to it, that is to say, read for No. 1 presser the first No. 1 
line; then the next, and so on stringing them together. If press- 
ers 2 and 4 are pLiin their pattern will be press-all. 

Collarette. When a considerable amount of plain work is 
required between the tuck work, as for collarette, an automatic 
device is used to substitute plain pressers for cut pressers without 
stopping the cylinder. A popular collarette combination is three 
tuck pressers in unison (3 tucks on the same needles) followed by 
two plain pressers. The pattern is generally " press one, skip 

one." 

Backing Cloth. Backing cloth, including single plush and 
double plush is plain knit fabric with a thread or yarn caught in 
the stitches but not forming stitches itself. • Backing cloth may 
be made with a sewing needle by taking the common or " flat " 
fabric, and running a heavy basting thread across it, making the 
courses close together. It this basting thread Avere then napped 
into a fleece, the fabric would be " fleece lined," and it would be 
single or double plush according as the original fabric was single 



83 



72 



KNITTING. 



thread or two thread. The word single or double applies to the 
face and not to the backing. If the backing thread Avere a ma- 
terial that would kink and curl after knitting, the material would 
be astraclian, or boucM cloth. 

On the knitting machine the backing is put into the fabric by 
lacing it among the needles before the face thread or threads, if 
two are used, are looped under the beards. The backing is not 
placed under the beards and does not go there. Suppose the ma- 




Four Cylinder Sleever. 

chine is set up for flat work and with only one feed, for simplicity. 
Also, suppose that the one feed has been running and making 
cloth. Now suppose that a comparatively heavy but loose spun 
yarn is taken, and beginning just ahead of the sinker, where the 
fabric is held down, is laced in front of one needle and in back of 
the next two and so on, working from the sinker bur. Suppose 
that this yarn is pressed down to the base of tlie needles, so that 



84 



KNITTING. 



73 



the sinker will not pick 
it up, and that the cyl- 
inder is slowly turned 
in order to get more 
needle space in which 
to lace the backing. If 
this is (lone the flat fab- 
ric will be transformed 
to single plusli. 

It will be noticed 
that the three requisites 
to make the changes 
were space in which to 
lace the backing on the 
needles (for the fabric 
must be held down be- 
fore the backing can be 
placed in) means of lac- 
ing the backing thread, 
and means to carry the 
backing thread down 
clear of the sinker. To 
get the space the push- 
down m u s t be long 
enough or of sufficient 
diameter to give the 
space, and the sinker 
and presser should be 
set pretty well back in 
respect to the push-down. 
To lace the backing in 
the needles a bur similar 
in shape to a sinker is 
used, but larger and 
with a deeper nib and 
the reverse angle. This 
bur is blocked so the 
needle will be pushed 




Cloth: Wool Backing, Buffalo Robe. 



85 



74 



KNITTING. 



back at intervals and the backing will be placed in front of the 
needle so pushed back and back of the other needles. This bur 
will not carry the backing down far enough to clear the sinker, so 
a clearing-bur is put between the backing-bur and the sinker. The 
clearing-bur is like the cast off, only being on the outside of the 
cylinder it works downwaid instead of upward. A conil)i nation 
of this kind — ^a backing and clearing-bur preceding a plain feed 
— makes a single plush feed. Of course, as many such feeds 
may be used as the cylinder space will allow. 

To make a double plush feed, remove the castroff from the 
single plush feed, and bring another complete flat feed up close to 
the single plush feed. With this arrangement the backing thread 
is brought up to the heads of the needles between the two feeds 
and is held there by the first face thread which is called the 
binder, because it binds the backing. In double plush the back- 
ing does not show on the face as in single plush. 




Type of English Frame. 



86 




LATCH NEEDLE RIB KNITTING MACHINE WITH REVOLVING CYLINDER 
AND AUTOMATIC CHANGE FROM PLAIN TO TUCKED STITCHES 

Nye & Tredick Company 



KNITTING. 

PART II. 



LATCH NEEDLE KNITTING. 

Latch-Needle Knitting has been exploited to a much greater 
extent than has Spring-Needle Knitting. It enters into the manu- 
facture of almost every line of knitted goods, is a leader in the stock- 
ing industry, and nearly, if not quite so, in the underwear mills. 

Since the time of Walter Aiken, latch needles have been used in 
various positions to make fabrics of a great variety of stitches; and 
in different systems, as the Lamb, Heginbotham, and Leighton. 
Since the invention of the dial plate for supporting a series of 
needles, horizontal to and in conjunction with the vertical needles 
in the cylinder, latch-needle circular frames have been utilized to 
a great extent in the production of all kinds of knitted wearing ap- 
parel, outer as well as under garments. For knitting fabrics for 
underwear, or more specifically shirts and drawers, latch-needle 
machines may be classified as Flat or Straight, and Circular. 
LATCH NEEDLE CIRCULAR MACHINES. 

The circular machines may be divided into three classes. 

L The Revolving Needle Cylinder in which the needle 
cylinder, needle dial, take-up, and fabric revolve (or strictly speaking, 
rotate); the cam ring, cam dial plate, and bobbin rack remaining 
stationary. 

2. The Stationary Needle Cylinder in which the cam ring 
(to which are fixed the vertical needle actuating cams), cam dial 
plate (to which are fixed the cams for actuating the horizontal or 
radial needles), bobbin rack, and cross bar revolve; the needle cylinder, 
needle dial, take-up, and fabric remaining stationary. 

3. The Flat Head Circular Machine in which the needle 
plate or dial is located outside of the needle cylinder. 

Each type of machine may be subdivided into Plain and Auto- 
matic. 



89 



76 



KNITTING 




Fig. 25.. Fabric foi- Shajjed Goods. Knit ou Automatic Machines. 



90 



KNITTING 77 



The Plain Machines produce but one class of fabric, a straight, 
tubular web of either a plain or a tuck stitch, the fabric being used in 
making what are known as straight goods. 

The Automatic Machines make a tubular web of either a plain 
or a tuck stitch, or a combination of both; in the latter, the stitch is 
changed automatically from one to the other. The fabric made 
with the combination stitch is used in making shaped goods. (See 
Fig. 25.) In these knitting machines the needles of the horizontal 
needle dial are controlled by movable needle-directing cams operated 
automatically. These cams move the needles farther out, or draw 
them in, as required to obtain the characteristic stitches for the plain 
or tuck fabric for the shaped garment. 

In making shaped goods, the 1 and 1 stitch (Fig. 26), is usually 
employed, viz.: All the needles in both cylinder and dial. For 
making straight goods, it is common practice to use the 2 and 2 stitch 
(Fig. 27) with every third needle out of both cylinder and dial. This, 
the Swiss double-ribbed stitch, produces what is known as the Riche- 
lieu fabric. Various other combinations of stitches may be made, 
as 2 and 1, 3 and 1, 6 and 2, 4 and 4, etc., and also fancy tuck lace 
stitches, making fabrics of various effects for a variety of styles. 
Machines up to 10 inches in diameter are commonly used for 
making children's goods. For fleece-lined underwear, sizes may be 
employed up to 10 inches for children's, 11, 12, and 13 inches for 
ladies' shaped goods, and 14, 15, 16 and 17 inches for men's (straight) 
goods. 

Measurement of Knitting Machines. Fig. 28. The old 
method of measuring is from back to back of the needles, but this 
system often occasions misunderstandings; as each different gauge 
needle gives a different needle diameter. Diametrical needle meas- 
urement may mean any one of three things; from the outside of the 
hook of the needle on one side to the outside of the hook of the needle 
on the other side; from the center of the needle on one side to the 
center of the needle on the other side; and from inside of the needle 
on one side to inside of the needle on the other. 

Cam-surface measurement has been adopted by many knitting 
machine builders. This measurement is taken from the outside 
diameter of the cam surface of the needle cylinder and not from the 
needles; that is to say, the cylinder for a 10-inch machine will measure 



91 



78 



KNITTING 




...... o„..„.o.P.,„.,„, .......,_.,... .„.,,..„.,,„,„, 



92 



KNITTING 



79 




Fig. 27. Two-and-Two Stitch. Every Third Needle out of both Cylinder and Dial. 



93 



80 



KNITTING 



10 inches at its greatest or outside diameter. In most cases, the cam- 
surface measurement will give a reading one-quarter inch larger than 
the old system, thus, a 4j-inch machine (modern method) would cor- 
respond to a 4-inch machine by the old measurement. 

Rib Knitting is done on a machine having two sets of needles, 
one forming the back of the fabric, the other forming the face. When 
the two sets of needles form, and cast off completed loops at every 
feed on the machine, the fabric is called a plain rib, each needle 
showing a distinct longitudinal wale or rib, both on the inside and 
on the outside of the fabric. 

The formation of the stitch in rib-knitted goods differs from 
that of flat goods in its principle, the effect being produced by revers- 




NEW V/AY^ NOMINAL SIZE 

I ' I 

I I 

Fit?. 28. Measui'emeut oX Knitting Machines. 



ing the stitch. The needles are so arranged that every alternate row 
in plain-rib work is reversed (Fig. 20), thus making both sides alike. 
Ribbed work requires two banks of needles; the function of the second 
bank being to pull and loop the yarn in an opposite direction, thereby 
producing a thicker and more elastic web. 

Useful modifications of plain-rib fabric are often obtained V)y 
varying the movement over the cams; of one or both sets of needles 
by leaving out certain needles in one or both sets; and by a combina- 
tion of these expedients, as shown in Fig. 30. 



94 



KNITTING 



81 




Fig. 39. One-and-One Fabric. Face and Back Alike, 



95 



82 



KNITTING 




Fiu. :w. Six-anil-Two Plain Rib. 



96 



KNITTING 



83 




Fig. 31. One-aud-Oue Tuck Stitch. 



97 



84 



KNITTING 



In knitting by hand, a latch needle will knit, tuck or purl the 
stitch. When kniitim/ the stitch, the needle takes a new loop of 
thread and casts off a loop onto it, forming a completed stitch. Wnen 
tucking the stitch, the needle takes the new thread into the hook l)ut 
does not cast off the partly formed stitch. When purling, the needle 
neither takes the new yarn nor casts off the old loop, but retains the 
stitch previously made by it. 

The most commonly used of these modifications of the plain-rib 
stitch are the tuck stitch, variously called half-cardigan, royal rib or 
sweater stitch, and the tuck stitch known as the cardigan stitch. 

The Half=Cardigan, or Royal Rib Stitch (Fig. 31), is usually 
made by projecting the needles of the inside set not cjuite far 




Fig. 33. Latch Needles. 



enough on alternate feeds (or if a single-feed machine, on alternate 
revolutions) to cast off the partly formed stitch or loop in the latch 
over the end of the latch. As the latch cannot close with the stitch 
on it, the loop, instead of passing off when the needle is drawn in by 
the stitch cam, slides back into the hook of the needle and is retained 
with the new loop which is taken by the needle. The other feeds are 
knitting plain, and of course cast off the tucked loop with the other, 
making one complete stitch for each two feeds. The needles of the 
outside set are knitting plain, but two of the loops made by them are 
tied together by one double loop of the inside needles, widening and 



KNITTING 



85 




86 KNITTING 



thickening the fabric without destroying the characteristic elasticity 
of rib goods. 

This is the method commonly used for shaping ladies' under- 
wear, the machines })eing made to automatically change the position 
of cams to make the bust and skirt on the royal ril), while the waist, 
band and cuffs are on the plain stitch. (See Fig. 25.) Sweaters, 
also, are made with the body a half-cardigan stitch; and neck, tail, 
cuffs, etc., a plain rib, or some fancy stitch. 

The Full Cardigan "s made like the half-cardigan, on the 
inside needles; but in addition, the outside needles are also tucked 
on each alternate feed. The two sets of cams are arranged so that 
on the feeds, when the inside needles are tucking, the outside needles 
will cast off, and vice versa. This gives a larger, looser fabric than 
even the half cardigan, and is used extensively for cardigan jackets, etc. 

It is customary to speak of the tuck stitch, but the needles do not 
form a complete stitch when tucking, and a tuck stitch is in reality 
one or more tucks comhined ivith a 'plain stitch. 

. As will be seen from tlie above, the number of tucks which can 
be put in a needle without clearing is limited, and though for fancy 
effects, two, three, four, or sometimes even more tucks are placed in 
the needle hook at a time, the cams should l)e watched carefully to 
note that the clearing cams are working perfectly, otherwise the 
result will be disastrous. 

Another use of pmling is to make a fancy effect in the color 
design, or some special stitch similar to the pineapple stitch. 

In Knitting Rib Fabric, needles are frequently left out of 
one or both sets at certain intervals around the machine, especially 
on ladies' underwear and hosiery. This gives a different appearance 
to the fabric, and to distinguish these different fabrics, they are known 
as 1 and 1 rib, 2 and 2 rib, 3 and 2 rib, 6 and 2, etc. The plain-rib 
fabric with every needle in both cylinder and dial, makes the 1 and 1 
rib. Where there are two needles in the dial, then two in the cylinder, 
with an interval of two left out between each pair, it is known as a 
2 and 2 rib. Where two are in the dial and two in the cylinder, with 
an interval of one between each pair, it is also called a 2 and 2 rib; 
in some localities it is known as two-needle line work. A fabric made 
with three needles in each plate, with an interval of one needle, is 
called three-needle line work, etc. Frequently the dial needles are 



100 



KNITTING 



87 



■• ^ -1.^ --^^- "W**^ "*.< ^^ 'i ^^ *I^^ *^^ '!?a«» ^S» ^»^ ^^^ ^5» ^"^ ■<llL> ^aj^- .'^■~. ,\ ' 

. , • t ' =tf -. , . 'j|fc». ^^ir ^-•■■■^ ^if"^ SSz a^^ ^^ i^z »m^ jS^ m»- M^ MJSS ^jtm^ ^^w* ^^. -a^** tM^K"*;^ i 

"~ "-jaM. " » J^^. ■^la^ " **'^ ****' "51*^ ''<S> > w''*i ^^ '"'<ifc||' *S^- ^^ t!S» — — ^^j ^^ ^^ "^h^ 'i^^' • -'.^ ■'^-; ^^^^^^^^ 






*,rtS»*»IJ?^;;^;K»;^i-;;;*l;i«^:tf«ir«;t;M;i^ 



L«^A'*^«f 



101 



KNITTING 



set two in and one out, with all the needles in the cylinder; the eflFect 
produced being called a 2 and 1 rib. 

Sometimes, on underwear especially, the needles are set, say 
for a 2 and 2 rib part way around the machine, and perhaps a 5 and 3 
with the remaining needles. In many underwear mills, these " needle- 
out" effects are all referred to as Richelieu ribs, while in others, the 
name Richelieu designates a particular variety of needle-out w^ork, 
oftentimes 5 and 3. As suggested before, these "needle-out" effects 
are often combined with the tuck stitch for producing the elegant 
lace effects, as illustrated in Fig. 33. 

Double work in knitting consists merely in running two threads 
where one is ordinarily used. Coarser and heavier needles are re- 
cjuired and a wider gauge for the needle cylinder. Fancy effects are 
obtained in double work by running two colors instead of one, the 
tendency l)eing for one thread to twist around the other, thus making 
fancy double and twist work. 

CONE WINDING. 

The proper presentation of yarn to the knitting machine is (me 
of the most important factors in the production of knit goods, and is, 
in a measure, more important in connection with, the latch-needle 
machines than with spring needles. In the case of spring needle 
machines, where the bobbins rest on racks below the cylinders and 
near the floor, they may be made very large without other difficulty; 
but with latch-needle circular machines, where the yarn is placed on 
a rack above the cylinder, it is desirable to have as much yarn as 
possible in a small, light package. 

The use of the paper tube to wind on, instead of the heavy winder 
bobbin, permits of the greatest quantity of yarn with the least weight, 
and winding machines have reached such a degree of perfection that 
the yarn is built into cones of uniform taper and tension, which give 
a free delivery to the knitting machines. 

Universal Winder. It is customary for the yarn manufac- 
turers to furnish yarn on the cop, although they sometimes re-wind it 
and furnish it in cones. When shipped to the knitting mill on cops, 
it must be wound on bobbins, or into cones; preferably the latter. 
The following is a description of a cone winder for this purpose: 
Fig. 34 represents the Universal Winder, ready for use in the knitting 



JOJ? 



KNITTING 



89 



mill for winding from the mule cop; and Fig. 35 illustrates the char- 
acter of the wind and the shape of the cone. The yarn is laid in a 
regular succession of coils and layers; the same number of coils in 




Fig. 34. Universal Cone Winder. 

each layer. The successive coils are laid evenly, without crushing, 
or displacing the twist. Every coil is reversed at each end of the cone, 
passing back at a uniform angle, crossing every other previously laid 
coil, and binding it into place. 



103 



90 



KNITTING 



Guide. The guide delivering the yarn close to the surface of 
the cone, prevents any coils from passing beyond the point of reversal 
and slipping across the end of the cone to produce "cobwebs." The 
spindle is rotated at uniform speed ; the yarn guide rests lightly against 
the surface of the yarn, and the number of coils in each layer about 
the cone is uniform. The same thickness of yarn is built up at each 
end, forming a cone with uniform taper, from start to finish. 

Tension. The tension on the yarn in this process of winding 
is applied by passing the yarn between a number of polished steel 
blades, the pressure of which is graduated to produce uniform stress 

on the yarn. Fig. 36 shows the yarn 
controller, which is adapted to all 
sizes and qualities of yarn. The 
interlocking fingers, between which 
the yarn passes, are made of thin 
steel with polished oval surfaces, 
bearing on the yarn alternately to 
deflect it from a straight line, and 
causing it to be delivered uniformly 
to the winding spindle. The posi- 
tion of the steel fingers can be 
adjusted to properly control the 
different grades and sizes of yarn. 

The rapid traverse of the yarn 
through the controller causes it to 
act as a yarn cleaner, throwing off 
the specks, dirt and loose slubs, and 
thereby improving it. As the speed 
of the yarn increases in proportion to the size of the cone the pres- 
sure of the tension blades against the yarn is automatically reduced, 
thus building the cone with a uniform density.. When the winding 
spindle stops, the tension blades are automatically thrown apart, 
and the tension remains open until the spindle is again started. 

Gainer Mechanism (Fig. 37). The upper, or winding spindle, 
being driven at a certain speed, is connected by means of a belt o with 
a small pulley on the end of the spindle, which carries the pinion W 
meshed with the gear u which is attached to the lower shaft / driving 
the cam. The speed relation is six to one, so that while the yarn 




Fie 



Universal Cone. 



104 



KNITTING 



91 



guide is moving from one end of the cone to the other and returning 
to its original position, the top shaft revolves exactly six times, when 
the diameter of the two pulleys is exactly the same. 

A micrometer adjustment is provided by means of a split ring r 
on the top pulley m. This split ring is supported on the three arms s 
projecting from the hub of the pulley. These pins rest against the 
bevelled end of the threaded nut /. By turning this threaded nut to 
the left, the pins s move down the bevel, so that the ring r contracts 




Fig. 3G. Yarn Controller. 

slightly, thus reducing the diameter of the upper pulley and changing 
the speed relationship. With this adjustment, the top shaft com- 
pletes the sixth revolution, and has started upon the seventh before 
the guide has made a complete reciprocation and reached its starting 
point. The effect of this is to cause the yarn to cross over the pre- 
ceding coils at the end, and form a regular succession of spirals, 
building up the entire cone. 



105 



92 



KNITTING 



To close the wind for finer yarn, the nut should be turned to 
the right. This adjustment by means of the threaded nut t is so 
delicate as to admit of winding the very finest yarns without " over- 




Fig. 37. Uuiver.sal Gainer Mechanism. 



rides," or leaving spaces between, forming one compact, uniform 
package from start to finish. The weight q holds the belt under 
uniform strain to insure accuracy at all times. The gear pinion w 
and the gear u are enclosed in a casing and run in oil, thus assuring 



106 



KNITTING 93 



durability and requiring less power. The top shaft a is oiled by 
means of the reservoir in the top of the frame, which automatically 
carries the oil through the bearings and returns it to the reservoir. 

The threading of the machine aid the arrangement of the 
tension is shown at Fig. 38, which is a sketch of a section of the front 
of the machine. 

When starting the machine in operation, place the paper cone 
upon the spindle and draw the lever x forward towards the end of the 
spindle. This expands the holder and holds the cone tube firmly 
in place. The yarn is then drawn from the supply spindle at the 
base of the machine, and passed between the tension blades d, d' , 
over the pick-up bail ij, and passed once or twice around the paper 
cone on the spindle. The guide h, supported by the swinging frame 
c, should be moved forward against the surface of the paper cone, 
as shown by the dotted lines in the cut, and the machine started into 
operation by pressing the lever x to the right. 

It is essential that the guide rest against the surface of the cone, 
as otherwise the winding will be defective. It is not necessary to 
place the yarn in the groove of the guide, as the guide coming in 
contact with the yarn when the machine starts, will push it up the 
incHne at either end of the pick-up bail and automatically thread 
itself. 

Adjusting the Pressure. The frame c is pivoted on the 
cam shaft, and the lower end c' is counterweighted so as to bring 
the guide against the surface of the cone, while it is being wound with 
a slight pressure. This pressure can be varied for different classes 
of material by shifting the bent arm of the lever / in the holes g. 
The greatest pressure is obtained by placing the bent end of the arm 
in the lowest hole. For soft hosiery yarn, it is desirable to use the 
top hole, this giving the lightest pressure. Connected with the i xl / 
is the lever e and a movable weight j on the lever. To increase the 
pressure of the guide against the cone, move the weight y toward die 
outer end of the lever. The softer and finer the yarn, the less pressure 
is required, and for knitting yarn, the pressure should be reduced 
to the least quantity. 

Adjusting the Tension. The tension upon the yarn is regu- 
lated in two ways: The yarn passing between the series of blades 
d-d' , is deflected from a straight line by a slight pressure of the blades. 



107 



94 



KNITTING 




Fig. 38. Universal Differential Tension Mechanism. 



108 



KNITTING 95 



and sufficient tension placed vipon it to keep it in line for uniform 
delivery to the cone. On the lever h, which is connected to the 
movable tension blade d by means of the link i, is a weight h, which 
can be shifted to increase or diminish the pressure of the blades 
against the yarn. With the weight at its lowest position on the lever, 
there is a very light pressure of the blades against the yarn, on its 
passage from the supply cop, or bobbin, to the winding spindle. 
When it is desirable to break out soft spots in the yarn, the tension 
should be increased. 

The Effect. When the machine is first started in operation with 
the paper cone bare, the frame c is in the position shown by the dotted 
lines, and the tension arms h, and e lie in nearly a horizontal position, 
thus giving the greatest pressure and tension at this point. As the 
cone increases in size, the guide is pushed back gradually, finally 
reaching the position shown in the sketch with the two levers raised 
nearer to a vertical position. The spindle speed of the machine 
being constant, there will be more and more yarn drawn on at each 
revolution until a full-sized cone is wound. The increase in speed 
in drawing the yarn through the tension blades increases the strain 
upon the yarn, if the pressure of the blades were to remain the same; 
but the change in leverage, as the guide moves back, automatically 
reduces the pressure of the blades to compensate for the increased 
rate of speed of the yarn, thus winding the outer coils of yarn under 
no more tension at high speed than inner coils are wound at a slow 
speed. By means of this differential tension, the machine can be 
adjusted to wind very soft twisted knitting or backing yarn with 
absolute uniformity. 

The winding spindles should be run at a speed not to exceed 
1,200 revolutions per minute, in winding soft spun yarn. 

CIRCULAR RIB KNITTING MACHINES. 
REVOLVING NEEDLE CYLINDER. 

The type of this style of machine (Stafford & Holt) illustrated 
in Fig. 39, has the outlines usually followed by builders of these 
machines. It rests on four legs, secured to the bedplate A, which 
supports the housings Y and Z on opposite sides of the machine. 
These housing plates support the cam ring B in which the needle 
cylinder revolves, and on which the cam system for vertical needles 



109 



96 



KNITTING 




Fig. 39. Latch Needle Circular Knitting Machine. 
Revolving Needle Cylinder. 



110 



KNITTING 



97 



is arranged. On this cam ring are secured four studs D, to support 
the dial arch E for holding up the cap, on which is arranged the cam 
system for the radial needles, and the dial. The bobbins are held 
on a frame, the supports H of which are secured to the cam ring also, 




Fig. 40. Needle Cyliuder. 



To the right housing plate Y is secured the driving shaft bracket I, 
which makes the outer bearing for the driving shaft, and on the shaft 
J are tight and loose pulleys between the bearings. Outside the 




Fig. 41. Cam Ring. 

shaft bracket bearing is a hand wheel J', for turning the machine l)y 
hand when occasion requires. Attached to the shaft arm is a belt 
shipper with belt and handle. On the shaft, inside the housing, is 
a bevel pinion K, which, meshing into the needle cylinder gear L, 
rotates the cvlinder. 



Ill 



98 



KNITTING 




Needle Cylinder. (Fig. 40). 
The cylinder needles are re- 
ciprocated vertically in slots in 
the periphery of the needle cylin- 
ders, as shown in the illustra- 
tion. Needle cylinders are us- 
ually constructed from steel 
forgings of good quality, as the 
requirements are very severe; 
the needle walls or lands should 
be hard enough not to jam too 
easily, and yet not hard enough 
to break. The cut across the 
face of the cylinderfor the needle, 
as at A, is generally called the 
needle slot; the part B, between 
the slots, is called the land, or 
sometimes, the needle wall. 
The slot is widened at the top, 
as at H, to clear the yarn when 
drawn into the slot by the needle. 
This widened part is often called 
the sinker cut. The grooves at 
D and E are called the gib, and 
clearance counterbores. The 
narrow radial face at F is called 
the top, and the adjacent face 
G, the bevel of the cylinder. 

It is important that the cyl- 
inder be perfectly concentric, 
that the needle slots are exactly 
the same depth, accurately 
spaced, smoothly cut, and of 
such width that the needle slides 
freely back and forth without 
side play. The counterbore 
should be of such a depth that 
when the gib sets against it, the 



112 



KNITTING 



99 



needle just passes freely under it. The sinker cut should be smooth, 
of exactly the same depth as the slot, with the top edges of the cylinder 
and lands carefully rounded so not to cut the yarn when drawn 
through. 

Cam Ring and Cams. Fig. 41 shows the cam ring and the 
arrangement of cams on its inner surface, but is more clearly illustrated 
in the projection of cam ring, Fig. 42. The cam B^ is the rise cam; 






B 



Fig. 43. Cylinder Cams. 



B* the stitch cam; B\ the fill-in cam, and B^ the guard cam, all 
shown in detail in Fig 43. These are all stationary except the stitch 
cam, which can be adjusted for slackening or tightening the stitch 
by means of adjusting screw B'. The stitch cam extends up into the 
gib, which is slotted to receive it, so that when it is pushed up or 
down, the extreme point is covered by the gib^ and a needle that 
should happen to be drawn beyond its normal limit, will be forced 
into its proper position on striking this cam. 

These cams are usually made of the best quality of tool steel and 
tempered very hard Their working faces should be very smooth, 
and should come in contact with the needle close to the cylinder, 
which should be a nice running fit to the circle formed by the cams. 



113 



100 



KNITTING 



The first rise on the rise cam opens the needle latch, and should l)e 
long enough to get all the latches opened before reaching the yarn 
guide, but comparatively shorter than the rise cam on the dial. The 
stitch cam should be as steep as practicable, especially that part which 
actuates the needles from the time the yarn draws through the dial 
needles. One end of the fill-in or connecting cam is made low enough 
for the needle to pass around the stitch cam, and the other end high 
enough to return the hook of the needle about ^-inch above the 
cylinder top, for convenience in starting the machine, and also to 
assist holding the work in position on the dial needle when it starts to 
advance. 

Needle Dial. Fig. 44 represents the needle dial. It is practi- 
cally a duplicate of the needle cylinder, except the shape, which 




Fig. 44. Needle Dial. 

is made to accommodate the radial needles, and the method of hold- 
ing it in position. The corresponding parts of the needle plate are 
known by the same names as those of the cylinder. It is essential 
that the bore should be perfect, and be a nice fit on the dial shaft, in 
order that the upper surface with the needle slots will revolve per- 
fectly true on the shaft. 

Drivers. On the under surface of the dial are the drivers, 
usually placed diametrically opposite, abutting against a similar pair 
fastened to the inner surface of the cylinder. As the fabric is being 
knitted, it passes between a pair of these drivers, placed on each side 
of the machine, and as the whole strain of driving the dial needles 
against their cams is transmitted through them^ it is essential that 
these drivers be very smooth, or preferably, that one or both be 
provided with rollers like those shown in Fig. 44. It is also necessary 



114 



KNITTING 



101 



that the needles in the dial and those in the cylinder, work in the 
center of space between the needles of the opposite plate, and as the 
fabric on the machine is varied in thickness, either the dial or cylinder 
drivers are made adjustable, especially in large machines. Fig. 40 
represents a cylinder wath adjustable drivers. 

Dial Cap and Cams. The cams on the dial cap correspond 
closely to those in the cam ring, the shape being changed to suit their 
position. In Fig. 45, F^ shows the rise cam; F^ the work cam; F\ 




Fig. 45. Dial Cap. 

the stitch cam, and F', the ""uard cam, and their locations. Fig. 40 
shows each cam in detail. On plain machines, cams F* and F^ are 
often made in one piece corresponding to cam B" in the cam ring; 
but in automatic machines, the tuck stitch which widens the fabric 
is made by moving the outer point of the rise cam back to prevent 
the loop in the hook from slipping off the latch. The needle retains 
this loop in the hook, and on the next feed takes another loop, both 



115 



102 KNITTING 



passing over the latch together, thus combining two cyHnder stitches 
with one dial stitch. 

The dial rise cam should start to push out the needle slightly in 
advance of the cylinder rise cam, as the cylinder needles are in a 
better position to assist in holding the stitch in position. The dial 
stitch cam is made adjustable to tighten or loosen the stitch, and 
should be of a shape that will not close the latches too quickly on the 
yarn that the cylinder needles are taking, but will complete the stitch 
as soon after as possible. 

The guard cams on both cylinder and dial are used solely to pre- 
vent the needles getting misplaced. The yarn is fed into the cylinder 
needles, which draw it into the hooks of the dial needles, and the 
position of the two sets of cams in respect to each other is very im- 
portant, as results can be varied widely by changing them. The 
above remarks in regard to cams have reference to underwear as 
generally made. 

To vary the respective adjustment of the cam ring and the cap 
plate, the dial stop F' (Fig. 39) is provided, which is fastened to the 
top of the dial cap and has a set screw abutting against one of the 
arms of the dial arch. The dial shaft G' fastened in the arch, sup- 
ports the cap and dial. This cap is fixed to the shaft by means of set 
screws in the hub and a stop on the dial cap resting against an arm 
of the arch. The dial is supported on the shaft by a collar secured to 
the shaft on which it revolves. The dial shaft with the cap and dial 
is adjusted vertically by means of the dial nut G\ The dial is rotated 
by means of two lugs in contact with lugs on the cylinder. The 
thread guides are fixed to the thread carriers which are fastened to 
the dial cap F. 

On the under surface of the dial cap are arranged the cams .or 
actuating the radial needles. These consist of the rise cams F''; 
the work cams F* ; the stitch cams F^, and the guard cams F^ (See 
Fig. 45.) A set of these cams constitutes a feed for each thread used 
in the machine, excepting the stitch cams, which are adjustable for 
different stitches. 

The Cap Plate, Fig. 47, represents the top side of the cap 
plate F and is the reverse side of Fig 45 F' is the cap plate ring, to 
which are secured the cap plate straps F*, which move the cams, to 
which they are connected, in and out for the purpose described above. 



116 



KNITTING 



103 



In the ring F' is fixed a stud F"' to which is fastened the strap or con- 
necting rod M'' (Fig. 39), which transmits motion from the auto- 
matic mechanism to the cams for changing the character of the stitch. 
The ring F^ is fitted loosely around the hub F" of the cap, and the 
plate straps are connected to the ring by means of the studs F^^ 





Fig. 46. Dial Needle Cams. 

The several screws, heads and holes show the means employed to 
secure the cams on the reverse side. The cap is fastened to the dial 
shaft G' by means of set screws through the hub F". 

Automatic Knitting Mechanism. On the automatic machine, 
the work cams are connected by a mechanism as follows: (See 
Fig. 39.) On the left housing plate Z is fixed the bracket M, 



117 



101 



KNITTING 



in which is joiirnaled the shaft. On the inner end of the shaft is the 
chain drive lever M", with a stud roller M^ and on the outer end of 
the shaft is the pawl lever M^ carrying pawls M^ and M''. The 
bracket M has a projection in which is the bearing of the shaft M', 
and on the outside of which is journaled the idler ratchet M' nearest 
the machine. Outside of the idler ratchet is the chain ratchet M^ 




Fig. 47. Top Side of Cap Plate. 

to which is fixed the sprocket wheel M' that carries the pattern chain 
M'". Next to the chain ratchet is the cam wheel M", on the periph- 
ery of which rests the chain lever M'^, which is pivoted in the top 
of the chain bracket ]\I. To the upper end of this bracket is con- 
nected a lever M'^ that actuates the work cams in the dial cap by 
moving the cap plate ring F', the motion being transmitted by the 
cap plate straps F\ which are connected by pins to the work cams, 
thus moving them in and out, as predetermined by the lugs on the 
pattern chain. The pattern chain is operated by the cam M" on 



118 



KNITTING 



105 



the take-up arm, which raises the chain driver lever each revohition, 
and by means of a pawl lever, moves the chain ratchet and 
sprocket ahead one tooth, unless prevented by the idler ratchet, which 
permits the pawl to engage the chain ratchet only as predetermined. 
The Take=up. (Fig. 48.) To the bedplate A is fixed the bed- 
plate gear N, enclosed by the gear case O, which revolves on the bed- 




Fig. 48. Frame and Take-up. 

plate, which carries a bearing for the pinion shaft N\ on the lower 
end of which is a pinion N', meshing with the bedplate gear N. On 
the pinion shaft is fixed a single-toothed clutch N'\ and a worm N*, 
journaled on the same shaft. The take-up arms P are supported on 
top of the gear case, the upper ends being in the cylinder gear L, by 
means of which the take-up mechanism is rotated. In the take-up 
arms are loosely fitted the bearing blocks P' in which are journaled 



119 



106 



KNITTING 



the take-up rolls P" and PI The rolls, which are fluted, are geared 
together at one end, and are held in yielding contact with each other 
by means of coil springs in adjustable blocks with set screws on both 
ends. At the opposite end of the drive roll P' is journaled a worm 
gear P*, provided with a clutch P^ feathered on the shaft and driven 
by the worm N' on the worm shaft, Fig. 49. The worm is supported 
by the arm P", fixed to the take-up bearing P'. At the lower end of 
the worm is a projection to engage clutch N^ 

The bearings P' have a certain 
amount of vertical movement, and 
by means of the arm P*^, carry the 
worm N* up or down. This move- 
ment is sufficient to disengage the 
worm from the clutch N" and when 
the shaft N^ turns freely in the 
worm, no movement is transmitted 
to the take-up rolls; but when the 
bearings are lowered, so that the 
worm engages the clutch, motion is 
transmitted through tlie worm and 
worm gear, by means of clutch P"", 
to the take-up rolls, and the fabric 
introduced between them is drawn 
away from the needles. It will be 
seen from the description that the 
_j motion of the take-up rolls tends to 
Fig. 49. Detail of Take-up. raise them and that they must have 

sufficient weight to keep the required 
tension on the goods. The coil spring P** and adjusting nuts P** 
are provided to regulate this. They can be attached to the rods P^'* 
and made to increase the tension on the fabric, or turned around 
and attached to the take-up blocks directly, and adjusted to diminish 
the tension. 

Bobbin Rack. Fig. 50 represents the bobbin rack. H is a 
casting with a hub, in the bore of which is held, by means of a set 
screw, a rod H' extending upward two or three feet and downward 
a few inches. At a distance from the center sufficient to give the 
required amount of room, a number of pins H" are set concentric 




180 



KNITTING 



107 



with the hub, and outside these another circle of the same number are 
similarly arranged. The bobbins are placed on these pins. On the 
upper end of the rod H^ is fastened a hub H'' in wliich are drilled as 
many radial holes as there are bobbin pins, and extending from each of 
these holes is a yarn hook H^ of sufficient length to bring the center 
of each hook directly over its corresponding pin and bobbin. Also 
on the rod H', one above and one below rack H, are two guide discs 
H* and H', each drilled near its edge with as many holes as there are 
bobbin pins. 

Automatic Stop Motion. Drive-bracket I, as shown in Fig. 
51, is an angle casting, having at 
one face a foot which is secured to 
housing Y. On the other face is 
a boss, through which is a bearing 
registering with the bearing in the 
boss on the housing^. Throuo-h 
this bearing extends the shaft J, 
having at one end the bevel pinion 
K and at the other the hand wheel 
J\ Between the bearings are the 
drive pulleys J". In the bottom of 
the bracket is provided a bearing 
transversely to the drive shaft, 
through which is the small shaft I', 
on one end of which is the belt fork 
I", and on the other end, the handle 
F. The casting which forms the 

handle extends on the opposite side of the shaft far enough to reach 
through the housing Y and engage the trip Y\ A coil spring Y" is 
adjusted to raise this projection of handle F, and a coil spring Y^ is 
attached to trip Y\ tending to hold it in contact with I'. The shifter 
fork and handle are fastened to shaft V in such a position that the 
normal action of the coil spring V^ is to hold the belt on the loose 
pulley, but by raising the handle the belt fork shifts the belt onto 
the tight pulley, and the extended portion of the handle catches 
under the end of the trip by action of spring Y'" and is held in this 
position until the trip is depressed far enough to clear the handle, 




Pig. 50. Bobbin Rack. 



121 



108 



KNITTING 



when spring Y" returns the beU fork and shifts the beU to the loose 
pulley. 

Hole and Bunch Detector. Fastened on top of the cam ring, 
directly over the end of trip Y' (Fig. 51), is the needle protector 
bracket Y', provided with latch Y' and finger Y". Through the top 
of the bracket is a bearing which is also carried through the bedplate. 
In this bearing slides the plunger Y^, having on top a small handle or 
knob, and near its top, a channel or cross cut. This plunger is pro- 
vided with a coil spring tending to force it downward, in which posi- 




Fig. 51. Top Frame and Driving. 

tion it rests on top of trip Y'. The finger is fastened to the latch so 
that when its inner end stands between the paths of the ends of the 
cylinder and dial needles, just beyond the point where the stitches 
are formed, the channel in the plunger can be rested on the latch, 
the plunger having been drawn up beyond the trip. In this position, 
it does not interfere with the running of the machine in any way, but 
.should a lump gather on the needles, or some other imperfection 
cause a needle to rise .slightly above its normal position, the finger 
is caught, swung around and away (carrying the latch) from the 
plunger resting on it, and the spring causes it to descend, striking the 
trip and stopping the machine. 



122 



KNITTING 



109 



In Fig. 52, B represents the cam ring of the knitting frame, C 
the cyhnder and F the diaL Y*^ is the cast-iron bracket fastened to 
the cam ring by screws through the angle post; Y" is the phmger in 
which is cut the recess or channel Y^"", into which one end of the swivel 
bar Y' rests in its normal position. The pivot of the swivel bar is on 
the stud screw Y'". On the top side of the swivel bar is the hole and 
bunch detector Y^ made of thin spring steel, and fastened thereon by 
means of screws Y" and Y'". Y" screws down tight and secures the 
detector in position. The offset in the feeder or detector Y* provides 
an arrangement whereby a vertical adjustment in relation to the work 



dZD 






^^ 







Fig. 53. Hole and Bunch Detector. 

may be obtained by means of the adjusting screw Y'". Normally, 
the detector rests with one end in the recess Y"" and the other between 
the ])aths of the ends of the needles at the point where both sets of 
needles have just completed their stitch. If, however, a needle is 
misplaced, by reason of a bunch or hole, it will strike the inner end 
of the detector, and turning it on its pivot Y'", throw the other end out 
of the recess in the plunger Y'', releasing the plunger. This permits 
the spring Y^ to force down the plunger to strike the trip Y' (Fig. 51) 
with sufficient force to release the belt shifter and stop the machine. 



123 



110 



KNITTING 



The Yarn Guide. Fig. 53 represents a yarn guide. A repre- 
sents the shank in which is a slot to fasten it to the guide carrier C, 
which is fastened to carrier plate D, which, in turn, is fastened to the 
dial cap by means of screws through slots D. The part a' is known 
as the point, and part a", as the heel of the guide. This should be of 
such shape and so set that the point will prevent the open latches 
from closing until the stitch is safely enclosed in the hook, the point 
being bevelled so that a partly opened latch will be forced open with- 
out bending it. The heel also is usually bevelled, principally to avoid 
interfering with the hook of the dial needles. 

The Needles. The cylinder 
needle, Fig. 54, is longer in the 
stem than the dial needle, being 
longer to admit of the various 
\j il (fJTnj III stitches made on it. In Fig. 54 

are given the names of the parts 
of both cylinder and dial needles, 
though the names differ slightly 
with difi'erent makes, and the style 
or shape varies according to the 
position of the cams in the various 
other types of these machines. 

Formation of Stitch. It is 
the function of the cams to actu- 
ate the needles in proper time to 
form the stitch. Their action and 
that of the attendant mechanism 
must be closely studied to acquire ability to run as tender yarn as 
possible, and obtain a maximum of perfect web with a minimum of 
needle breakage and other expenses. The formation of the loop 
should be thoroughly understood, and is described as follows: As 
the needles advance on the rise cams, the loops in the hooks open 
the latches, slipping over them into the throats, and the cylinder 
needles, on striking the stitch cams, take the thread from the thread 
guide. On drawing the needles back, the loops in the throats sliding 
under the latches, close them, thereby holding the thread in the 
hooks, and pass over them, clearing the needles and casting off 
onto the thread held in the hooks, in this way forming the new loops. 




Fig. 53. Yarn Guide or Carrier. 



104 



KNITTING 



111 



This method of stitch forming is sliown in the diagrams I, II., III., 
and IV. in Figs. 55 and 55"; C representing a section of the cyhnder 
and G a section of the dial, each with needles in about their relative 



DIAL neiedle: 

LATCH /-^^BUTT 




D> 



THROAT 



SHANI^ 

positions. Thus, in diagram I., the nee- 
dles have been projected to their farthest 
position, clearing the loops off the latches 
and allowing them to rest in the throats 
of the needles, while the cylinder needle 
is taking a new thread. 

In diagram II., the cylinder needle 
hook has drawn the thread into the hook 
of the dial needle, and the cylinder needle 
latch has closed, while the dial needle 
latch is closing. 

In diagram III., the needles are with- 
drawn to cast off the stitch, the loops that 
were on the needle having passed over 
the latches and oft' the needles on to the 
thread drawn in by the hooks of the nee- 
dles, thereby forming new loops, which, as 
the needles are projected, open the latches 
as in diagram IV . 

The loops formed by the repetition of 

this cycle of movements are each in turn 

cast off, forming new stitches in the web 

as long as the machine is in motion and 

yarn properly supplied to the needles. 

Starting up the Machine. Before starting up the machine, 

turn it slowly by hand with the hand wheel, and see that the needles 

are working freely in the slots ; that none of them are bent or broken, 




^ STEM 

CYLINDER 
NEEDLE 



BUTT 



SHANK 



KJ 



Fig. 54. Stafford aud Holt Needles. 



125 



112 



KNITTING 



or have stiff or defective latches ; that the mesh of the needles is good, 
i.e., with the dial needles coming out a trifle behind the center of the 
spaces between the cylinder needles; that the cylinder and dial are 
turning freely and true; that the two sets of cams are timed correctly 
(on most work so that the hook of the cylinder needle would just 
grasp the rivet in the dial needle latch, were it extended sufficiently) ; 
that there is sufficient room for the fabric to pass between dial and 
cylinder, and that the stitch cams of each feed are set to cast off the 
stitch perfectly. 





Fig. 55. Diagrams of Stitch Formation, I and II. 

The guides should be carefully examined to see that they are 
perfectly smooth and set to deliver the yarn into the hooks of the 
needles, and yet not touch the needles. The heel should be set close 
to the point where the cylinder latches close, but must not interfere 
with them. The point must be close enough to the needles so that 
a cylinder needle latch, flying out horizontally, will not go behind it, 
and wedging in, become bent. The guide must be low enough so 
that the free end of the dial latch cannot clear it in its outward move- 
ment, and, flying up, lose the stitch. This trouble is also liable to 
occur if the two sets of cams are not properly timed. 

The take-u'p should be examined to make sure that there is suffi- 
cient tension to take the goods from the needles nicely, and that there 



126 



KNITTING 



113 



is sufficient recoil in the contact of the rolls to allow the bunch where 
the fabric is started, or similar imperfections, to pass without clogging. 
The machine may now be threaded up by placing the spools of 
yarn on their respective yarn hooks h^ (Fig. 50), thence through holes 
in guide discs W and k' to a hole in the top of the carrier. When this 
is completed for each thread, turn the machine so that the cylinder 
and dial drivers come opposite where the cylinder needles are resting 
on the fill-in cam, and insert the upper end of fabric between them. 
Hold it there with the left hand, and with a hook or needle held in the 
right, catch hold of the fabric as near the end as possible, and draw 
it up through the space between the cylinder and the dial, slipping it 





Fig. 55A. Diagrams of Stitch Formation, III. and IV. 

over and on to the hooks of the cylinder needles. Turning the ma- 
chine slowly and at intervals, by the hand wheel, draw the end of the 
fabric onto all the needles as they come into position, until the needles 
with the fabric hooked on come to a yarn guide, then pass the end 
of the yarn through the hole in the yarn guide and into the hooks of 
the needles. 

The loops are formed at this point, and knitting begins as the 
operation of turning and hooking on the fabric is continued. Be 
careful to start each thread as soon as the fabric hooked in the needles 
reaches a yarn guide, and to draw the fabric through the second pair 
of drivers as they are reached ; continue hooking on and threading up 
until the fabric is hooked on the needles all around the machine. 



127 



KNITTING 




One-andOne Plain Ri 



^t,ed Goods Slightly Stretched. Coarse P-^uge. 



128 



KNITTING 



115 



Now introduce the other end of the fabric between the take-iip rolls, 
and put on sufficient tension to hold the fabric on the needles and 
prevent a pull-off. 




Cuff of Ladies' Vest. 

When turning the machine during the hooking-up process, use 
the left hand to exert a tension on the fabric similar to that which the 
take-up exerts when in action. This "run on" portion is cast off by 
the needles with more or less difficulty, according to how closely, loop 
for loop, the fabric has been picked on. The machine should be 



129 



116 KNITTING 



turned slowly until all latches are carefully opened, dropped stitches 
picked up, and damaged needles replaced. 

When this has been accomplished, look over the adjustment of 
the yarn guides; the adjustment and timing of cams, and the adjust- 
ment of take-up, as at this stage of operation adjustments can be 
more carefully made. Then start the machine by power, watching 
carefully to see that all the parts are doing their work properly. 

On an automatic machine, it is perhaps best to start on the plain 
stitch, then start the chain, and when it changes to tuck stitch, stop 
the machine, looking over each dial tuck feed carefully to see that the 
cams are advancing the needles far enough to catch the stitches, but 
not far enough to allow any to slip over the latch and thus out of the 
hook. Then proceed to even the stitch, which is usually done when 
the machine is on the plain stitch, by carefully looking over the dial 
cams and setting them to draw the needles into the dial the same 

___-cylinoe:r stitches-^ 



^DIAL STITCHES -^ 
Fig. 56. Liuk Chain, Simile of Tuck Stitch. 

distance or as nearly as possible; then mark each thread at an equal 
distance from its respective guide, and turn the machine by hand. 
Note which threads arrive at the guide first; make the required 
changes of cylinder stitch cams, so that all the marks will arrive at 
the guide at the same time, which will sometimes require several 
changes. If using white yarn, it can readily be marked by placing 
one end of a scale at the hole in the guide, and grasping the yarn at 
the other end of the scale, slightly twisting it between the thumb 
and forefinger of the other hand, somewhat soiled with the oil oozing 
from some bearing. If dark yarn, use powdered chalk for marking. 
Care should be used that the length of yarn measured off should be 
as long as convenient, and the length accurate at the same tension. 
To Shorten or Lengthen the Stitch. A small set screw B', 
Figs. 41 and 42, bears against the stud which holds the stitch cam 
in the cam ring. By means of this set screw, the stitch cam may be 



180 



KNITTING 



117 



adjusted up or down. The stitch cam B' is riveted to a spline, for 
which there is a key seat in the cam ring. This serves as a guide for 
the cam. Turn the set screw B' in to slacken or lengthen the stitch, 




Fig. 57. McMichael and Wildman-Machine. Revolving Needle Cylinder. 

and turn it out to tighten or shorten. The dial cam is adjusted in a 
similar manner, by means of the set screw F'", shown in Fig. 45. 
Turn the set screw in to lengthen, and out to shorten or tighten the 
stitch. 



131 



118 



KNITTING 



The stitch is also adjusted by raising or lowering the dial and 
cap by means of the dial arch nut G\ (Fig. 39.) Raising the dial 
slackens or lengthens the stitch, and lowering the dial tightens or 
shortens the stitch. This is similar in effect with that obtained by 
adjusting the cyhnder cam B\ 




Fig. 5S. A, Gear Ring. B, Head Ring. C, Cam Ring. 

To Remove a Section of Cylinder or Dial. The upper part 
of the cam ring, or what is generally termed the section ring. 
Figs. 39 and 41, and also the cylinder gib, is divided into as many 
sections as there are feeds on the machine, and each section is held in 
place by two screws, B'", shown in Figs. 41 and 42. A cylinder sec- 
tion may be removed by loosening these screws. On the dial cap. 



132 



KNITTING 



119 





Fig. 59. Housing Plates. 





Fig. 60. Dial ami Cylinder. 



133 



120 



KNITTING 



the top ring can be divided as indicated by the three l)roken lines in 
Fig. 45, and each section will be held by two screws, the bottom of 
which also show in Fig. 45. 




Fig. 61. Frame and Take-up. 

Loading up the Needles. If anything goes wrong when the 
machine is running, the yarn begins to load up near the top of the 
needles. If a hook or a latch bends, or a butt cuts off, or lumps or 
other imperfections occur on the needles, it can, as a rule, be detected 
almost instantly by the load on the needle, wdiich causes the stop 



184 



KNITTING 



121 



motion to act immediately. About the only imperfection that does 
not cause a load is an occasional dropped stitch or the head of a 
needle cut clean off. As these have no stitch on to hold them in place, 
they usually jump up and are caught by the stop motion. If the butt 
of the needle is entirely broken, the needle remains stationary and 
will not throw off its loop, but the needles on either side will accimiu- 
late yarn, and if not discovered, will soon cause two or more needles 
to be broken at either the hook or the latch. Twits in the yarn 
coming into needles running at high speed, break, causing the needles 
to jump, and, falling back, become wedged under the cams. 

A Tuck Stitch makes a wider web, because more yarn is em- 
ployed in making the stitch. The tuck stitch and plain stitch may be 





Fig. 62, Detail of Cam Controlling Mechanism. 

likened to link chains, the plain .stitch resembling the chains drawn 
out parallel or straight. The tuck is formed like fastening two links 
of one chain into each link of the other, as per Fig. 56. Unlike the 
chain, the yarn is not rigid, and seems not only to draw up and thicken 
the fabric, but also, because of the nature of the .stitch formation, to 
spread it out wider. 

To flake a Loose Course. A loose course is a single stitch 
of more than normal length, extending completely around the web or 
fabric. It is employed at certain points in the web or fabric where 
the rib fabric is looped on to another fabric, as a cuff or border on a 
balbriggan shirt, or rib top on a stocking or sock, and is usually made 



185 



122 



KNITTING 



by depressing one of the cylinder stitch cams for exactly one revolu- 
tion of the machine. 

To Make a Welt. A welt is a hem in the fabric and is used 
for a finish similar to a selvedge edge that will not ravel. It is made 




Fig. 63. Cam System for Aotuatiug Automatic Mechanism. 

by preventing one set of needles (usually the dial needles) from 
taking the yarn or casting off their loops for a certain number of 
courses, while the other set continues to knit a flat fabric. When the 





Fig. 64. Base and Ciear. 



first set is thrown into action, having retained the stitch from where 
the other set began to make single fabric, this loop is cast over with 



136 



KNITTING 



123 



the last loop made by the cylinder needles, joining both ends of the 
single fabric and making a perfect hem. 

A welt is usually limited to four or six courses, unless special pro- 
vision is made to hold down the fabric made by the single set of 
needles, as the stitch on the dial needle prevents the take-up from 
exerting its normal tension, while the single fabric is being knit. The 
more courses, the more bulky will the welt become, making it pass 
with difficulty between the cylinder and dial, unless provision is 
especially made to facilitate it. 

Some of the variations in the style of this type of machine 
(Revolving Needle Cylinder) are herewith explained. 

The frame illustrated in Fig. 57 (McMichael & Wildman 
Machine (has the same general outlines common to all circular rib 





Fig. 65. Worm. 



Fig. 66. Clutch and Worm Gear. 



knitting machines. Four legs support the annular base frame A, 
which is machined to guide the take-up plate B, and connected by 
the take-up standards C C to the rotating bevel gear ring D (See A, 
in Fig. 58). This is seated in the stationary bedplate or head ring 
E (B in Fig. 58), supporting the stationary cam ring F (C in Fig. 58), 
and in this cam ring the vertical needle cylinder G is mounted in 
condition to rotate. On the base A is mounted the housing plates 
Y and Z (Fig. 59), which support the bedplate E. From the cross- 
tree H, supported on the bed ring E, depends the rotary needle dial I 
on the center stud J, on which it rotates, held up in j)osition by a 
collar fastened to the lower end of the stud. Above the needle dial 



137 



124 



KNITTING 



(See Fig. 60) a stationary cam dial is suspended, fixed to the center 
stud by set screws. These dials may be raised or lowered, when 
adjusting the plane of the horizontal or dial needles in relation to the 
plane of the vertical needles in the cylinder by turning the hand wheel 




Fig. (57. Plain Machine with Fabric Roll in Place of Can. 

K. The thread guides L are fixed to the stationary cam dial in a 
manner to properly present the thread to the needles at points where 
the dial needles are operated by the cams. 



138 



KNITTING 



125 



The bevel gear ring D receives its motion from the spur gear D', 
which is fixed to the driving shaft D^ (See Fig. 61) and on which are 
tight and loose pulleys. The shaft D' is mounted at the inside end 
in a bearing in the right housing plate, and at the outer end in a bear- 
ing in the bracket D* fixed to the same housing. The power is trans- 
mitted by a belt, which may be shipped from one pulley to the other 
by means of the shipper D'. The hand wheel D" is fixed to the driving 
shaft for use when the needle cylinder is required to be turned slowly 
for replacing needles, repairing, cleaning, etc. 

The Chain Actuating Mechanism. This mechanism on the 
left of the frame (See Fig. 57) is for the purpose of automatically 




Fig. 68. Body Machine Head. 

operating the movable cams of the cam dial plates, to move the needles 
farther out, or to draw them in, to narrow or widen the fabric for 
shaped goods. In the bracket N, fixed to the left housing, is a shaft 
N' on one end of which is fixed a ratchet wheel N" and back of this 
wheel is a sprocket wheel, or pattern chain wheel, secured to another 
ratchet wheel, both free to revolve on the shaft. The sprocket carries 
the pattern chain N' and receives its motion by means of the pawl N*^ 
connected to the slide N'. A larger view of this is given at Fig. 62. 
This slide is moved back and forth in its guide by the levers fixed on 
the upper ends of the upright shafts N'", N" (Fig. 63). At the lower 



139 



126 KNITTING 



ends of these shafts are secured arms N'" and N'^ which are acted 
upon by the cams X, secured to the rotating take-up plate B. These 
upright shafts are geared together at N'* (Fig. 57), so that when one 
is acted upon by its cam, the other turns in an opposite direction, and 
vice versa; this short reciprocating motion^imparts to the pawl, through 
its connections, the required movement to actuate the ratchet wheel 
and move the shaft N'. 

On the left end of the shaft is fixed a toothed disc N'' on the 
periphery of which rides a roll N"^, secured to the lower arm of the 
elbow lever N'' (See also Fig. 62). By this means, motion is im- 
parted through the connecting rod N'**, to the pivoted dial cam, when 
the pattern chain permits the pawl to engage the ratchet wheel which 
is fixed on the opposite end of the shaft. 

Operation. As the needles are carried round by the rotary 
needle dial and cylinder, they are operated by the respective cams to 
take the thread and form the fabric in the usual manner. The 
character of the fabric producetl is governed by the pattern chain, 
which is carried on the sprocket wheel, operated in the manner de- 
scribed. The operation of the needles continues in a uniform manner 
as in plain knitting, or otherwise, until a notch in the pattern chain 
comes under the pawl, when the latter immediately operates the 
ratchet and shaft with its wheels, and in the manner described, moves 
the cams, and thus draws the needles in or out, as the case may be, 
and correspondingly changes the character of the fabric produced. 
When the cams have been so changed, the needles continue to operate 
in the same manner until the next notch in the pattern chain passes 
under the pawl, when they are moved back, and correspondingly 
change the extent of the movement of the needles and the character of 
the fabric produced. 

Worm Gear Take=up. The take-up or tension rolls are driven 
by a worm gear arrangement. Fixed to the projection on the under 
side of the annular base is a stationary internal gear () (Fig. 61). 
The take-up mechanism is fixed on the rotating take-up plate B and 
as it turns, the pinion gear fixed to the lower end of the worm shaft 
and meshing into the stationary internal gear (Parts shown in Fig. 
64), causes the worm 0^ Fig. 61 (also shown at Fig. 65), to revolve 
and impart motion to the fluted take-up rolls (V and 0', These are 
journaled in the take-up standards C C and the knitted fabric passing 



140 



KNITTING 



127 



between them is held firmly enough to maintain the required tension 
on the fabric, between the take-up rolls and the needles. The driven 




Fig. 69. Cam Ring Section. 



take-up roll 0^ is geared at 0" to the driver roll 0* at the opposite end 
from the worm gear, Fig. 60, and is journaled at each end in sliding 
blocks, guides being provided for that purpose in the take-up stand- 




Fig. 70. Cylinder Cams. Full Size. 

ards. These blocks and guides are so arranged that a yielding 
pressure is maintained on the frame by means of coil .springs confined 
in sleeves fixed on the side of the take-up standards and against each 
block. 



141 



128 



KNITTING 



The worm gear is loose on the driving roll and is provided with 
a clutch, Fig. 66, feathered on the driving roll in such a manner that 
when the clutch is pulled away and disconnected from the worm gear, 
the rolls are at rest, leaving the worm gear free to revolve on the shaft. 
The worm shaft pinion gears vary in size according to size or diameter 
of the frame. T^nderneath the frame is can X, which receives the 
fabric during the knitting, and which is attachetl to and revolves with 




Fig. 71. Cam Dial with Section Removed. 

the take-up plate. A fabric roll is often used in place of the can, and 
the fabric rolled up as shown in Fig. 67. 

Head and Cam Ring and Cam Dial Plate. Fig 68 repre- 
sents a plain body machine head, without the needle cylinder and 
needle dial, and more clearly represents the position of the sectional 
cam ring, the cam dial cap, the cross-bar, the thread guides and the 
manner of holding and adjusting the cam dial cap in position. These 
parts are all stationary. The sectional cam ring consists of an ar- 
rangement of the cam ring in a number of sections, corresponding to 



142 



KNITTING 



129 



the number of feeds on the machine, so that each section may be 
removed, exposing all the needles covered by that section when neces- 
sary for repairs, cleaning, etc. Fig. 69 shows a section of the cam 
ring, inside view, and Fig. 70 shows the cylinder cams, full size, those 
attached to the cam ring and actuating the cylinder needles. 

Fig. 71 represents the under side of the sectional cam dial and a 
section removed. The sectional dial cap is divided in a similar way 

FULL SIZE 




Fig. 72. Dial Cap Cams. 

to the cam ring, each section containing in addition, the dial cams of 
the feed for actuating the dial needles, and the yarn carriers, or guides 
for delivering the yarn to the needles. Any or all of the sections may 
be removed, without running the fabric off the needles, by loosening 
the take-up. 

The dial cap cams (Fig. 72) are disposed in positions to cause the 
needles to be reciprocated in a proper manner to co-operate with the 
cylinder needles to form the stitches, the cylinder needles first taking 
the yarn, after which the radial or dial needles operate with it to form 
the stitches. The "Automatic" cam dial is provided with movable 
cams so pivoted that they act on the butts of the dial needles and 



143 



130 KNITTING 



move them in or out as the character of the knitting may recjuire. 
The needle dial is provided with lugs (See Fig. 60) which are engaged 
by lugs on the needle cylinder and serve to transmit motion from the 
cylinder to the dial. 

Other variations in latch needle circular machines may be noted 
in the mechanisms foi taking up and rolling up the fabric and manner 
of applying or creating the tension on the fabric as it is being knitted ; 
in the shape of both the stationary and movable cams to act on the 
heels of the needles to move them in or out, as the character of the 
knitting may require, together with the consequent changes in the 
form and locjition of the butts of the needles; in the stop motion 
mechanism; in the manner of actuating the movable cams, and in 
other mechanisms and the conse^juent changes in construction, so 
that the yarn is fed by the guides to tlie needles carried by the rotary 
needle cylinder and dial, and actuated by their respective cams, to 
take the thread and form the fabric in the customary manner. 



144 



KNITTING. 

PAKT III. 



STATIONARY NEEDLE CYLINDER MACHINES. 

A type of Circular Latch Needle Machine, which is somewhat 
different from those taken up in Part II, is the Stationary Needle 
Cylmder in which the cam ring, cam dial plate, bobbin rack, and 
cross-bar revolve. As the needle cylinder and the cloth are stationary, 
the take-up is fixed to the frame, but the feeds and the bobbins as 
well as the cross-bar must revolve. These parts, with the cam ring 
and dial plate, compose the head. 

Fig 73, the Scott and Williams Circular Latch Needle Automatic 
Machine, is a representative of the above type of machine with a re- 
volving head. The most notable difference that may be observed in 
this illustration is the manner of applying the take-up to the frame, as 
the cloth is not revolved. 

The Cam Ring, carrying the cylinder needle actuating cams, 
revolves around the stationary needle cylinder and thereby acts on 
the butts of the needles, moving them up and down with the required 
amount of travel to effect the formation of the stitch, instead of the 
needle cylinder carrying the needles around to the stationary cams to 
be acted upon. 

The cam ring contains all the cams for operating the needles 
in the needle cylinder, and also the main stitch cams which control 
the yarn. The projection, Fig. 74, and the section as illustrated in 
Fig. 75, show the disposition of the cams in this machine, and their 
relation to each other. 

The Ring Cams, or Cylinder Cams. The cover cam A, Fig. 76, 
is merely to guard the needles and prevent them from "flirting," or 
jumping while the machine is running. It has no function to per- 
form in making the stitch. The landing or clearing cam B lands the 
needles to a tuck point, so that all the latches are safely opened before 
the yarn guide covers the needles to feed them new yarn. The highest 



147 



132 



KNITTING 



point of the cam is the clearing point for placing the old loop under 
the latch in order that it may be cast off the needle over the new yarn, 
thus making a new loop. 




Fig. 73. Scott & Williams Machine 
Stationary Needle Cylinder. 



The stitch cam C controls and regulates the length of the stitch 
for both sets of needles. In Swiss knitting, the top and the bottom 
cam draw their yarn separately, which makes a much more elastic 



148 



KNITTING 



133 



fabric. The foreign machine manufacturers build their rib machines 
on this principle at the sacrifice of speed. 

The rest cam D returns all the needles to one common level after 
the stitch has been formed, the main object being to even the length 



^ ^ 




Fig. 74. Projection of Cam Ring. 

of the stitches. Without this cam, a tight or stiff needle would make 
a slack line in the fabric. 

The land or tuck cam B lands the needles to a tuck so that all the 
latches are safely opened before the guide covers the needles for pla- 




Flg. 75. Cam Ring Section. 

cing a new stitch on them ; while the landing or clearing cam C has the 
same functions to perform in the dial as the B cam in the ring. 

The rest cam D performs the same function as does the D cam 
in the ring; the draw-in cam casts off the old stitch placed on the top 
needles by the cylinder needles; this cam also acts as a dividing cam for 
the top loops ; it has nothing to do with the stiffness of the fabric. The 
cover cam F does the same work in the dial as cam A in the ring. 



149 



134 KNITTING 



The Cap or Dial Plate (Fig. 77) contains all the cams for opera- 
ting the needles in the dial, and also the movable clearing cams for 
making plain and tuck stitches for producing plain and royal fabrics 
used in making ladies' shaped vests and union suits. 

The Cap Cams or Dial Cams (Fig. 78). The slide cam A is 

used for making regular royal fabric, or for making fancy stitches in 

lace work. When used in connection with a movable cam in the 

ring of two or more feeds, a full cardigan stitch can be formed. 

STARTING UP AND ADJUSTING STATIONARY NEEDLE 
CYLINDER MACHINES. 

The following instructions apply in most part to revolving head 
machines, though more particularly to the Scott & Williams frame, 
which is so commonly used in this class; and include directions for 
adjusting a frame that has never been run, or has been out of commis- 
sion for some time. 

Clean off the machine thoroughly and see that the working parts 
are well oiled, taking care to oil the cylinder and dial only slightly 
with a light, stainless oil. Belts of nearly the full width of the receiv- 
ing pulley should be used, and run at an angle that will not interfere 
with the belt-shifting-fork. Fill both cylinder and dial with the 
necessary needles, after having removed all those broken, bent, or 
otherwise disabled, and see that the latches work freely and cover 
the hook perfectly. 

Adjust all the dial draiv-in cams to draw the needles about ^^ 
of an inch inside the diameter of the dial. 

Adjust all the cylinder draw-down cams to draw the needles 
about y G of 8^n inch below the top of the cylinder. 

Adjust the ca'p circumferentially imtil the hooks of the cylinder 
needles meet the rivet of the dial needles. 

Set the height of the dial so that a needle will pass freely between 
the edges of the cylinder and dial, or leave a space between the cylin- 
der and dial wide enough so that the old fabric to be used in setting 
up the machine will pass freely between the cylinder and dial at the 
place where it will be joined to the new fabric. This adjustment 
must be made by the threaded wheel and center spindle at the top of 
the machine. 

Fit all the yarn guides to the machine. The yarn guides. Fig. 79, 
should not touch the needles at any time, but should be set J^ of 



160 



KNITTING 



135 



an inch above the dial needle and about 3^2 of an inch away from 
the cyhnder needles ; the circumferential position of the guides should 
be such as to allow the cylinder needle latches to close without striking 
the guides; the leading end of the guides should then cover both the 
cylinder and dial needle latches just before the latch passes through 
the fabric. This prevents the latches from closing after leaving the 
control of the fabric on the old loops. 

To Press=Up a Machine or Replace a Press=Off. If there is no 
fabric on the machine, procure a circular piece of cloth, knitted if 
possible, of about the same diameter as the needle cylinder. Press up 
the machine by placing the fabric between the cylinder and the dial 
dogs. To do this, insert a needle doAvn through the space between the 
cylinder and dial, and with the hook of the needle, catch a narrow. 




Fig. 76. Cylinder Cams. 

yet firm, hold on the edge of the fabric which is to be placed on the 
needles, and pull it up until it can be grasped by the fingers of the 
right hand; put the left hand underneath and up through the hole 
in the needle cylinder, grasp the fabric, and by means of a sawing 
motion, force the fabric between one of the sets of dogs which prevent 
the dial from tm-ning. 

The machine should be turned at this time so that one of the 
resting points for the cylinder needles will come where the work is 
inserted between the cylinder and dial. At such points the cylinder 
needles are partially elevated, so that the edge of the fabric may be 
fjuite easily pulled on to the needles. Too wide an edge would make 
it difficult to operate the machine, and too narrow a bite would allow 
the cloth to be easily pulled off the needles. About i of an inch from 



ISl 



136 



KNITTING 



the needles to the edge of the fabric, or a trifle less, will he found 
sufficient in most cases. 

After the fabric has been pressed on to several needles at this 
point, it is well to go around to the other side of the machine and pull 
it up between the other set of dogs, and place it on about the same 
number of needles, going through the same operations as before. 
Then press the cloth on to a few needles between the feeds, and turn 




Fig. 77. Cap or Dial Plate. 

the machine slightly, repeating this same process until the fabric 
has passed under the yarn guides. 

Thread the guides and hold the work down by hand, catching 
hold of the cloth under the head with the left hand, while turning the 
machine slightly to bring other groups of needles into accessible 
positions to place the rest of the fabric on the empty needles. Repeat 
this operation until all the needles have loops placed upon them, then 
place the other end of the fabric between the take-up rolls, and adjust 
them to have a fairly taut tension on the fabric. Too much tension 



162 



KNITTING 



137 



should not be applied until the rough edge of the run-on portion of 
the cloth is off the needles. 

Now, if all the yarn guides are properly threaded, the machine 
may be slowly turned by hand a short distance at a time, meanwhile 
opening all the latches that have not been opened by the pressing-up, 
and picking up all the dropped stitches and placing them on their 




Fig. 78. Dial Cams. 

proper needles. At this time, the cylinder and dial may be thorovghly 
oiled. Oiling was done but slightly before placing the fabric on the 
machine, as excessive oiling before that operation makes a machine 
hard to press up, the oil affecting the yarn and fabric to such an ex- 
tent that it is almost impossible to get the needles through the fabric. 
Another way to replace a press-off, in vogue with some knitters 
(assuming that the cloth is between the cylinder and dial and the first 



153 



138 



KNITTING 



set of dogs, and on the needles), is to keep jabbing it on to the needles 
a little at a time, turning the machine slowly until the first yarn guide 
and set of cams come to the point where the work was started on the 
needles; then thread the guide so that the needles will begin to knit, 
and proceed to place the work on the needles in continuous order, 
threading up the several guides as they come into position, until the 
other set of dogs is reached. Get the work in between these dogs 
by a similar process as described above, after which, continue to jab 
on the work continuously all the way around to the starting point, 
taking care that each guide is properly threaded when it arrives at 




Fig. 79. Yarn Carrier. 



the starting point. Then put the other end of the cloth into the take- 
up rolls and proceed as before. 

Adjusting the Feed. Run the machine carefully until the new 
fabric has passed through the take-up rolls. In the meantime set 
all the cylinder cams evenly, by marking all the threads an equal 
distance from the yarn guides. To prevent unevenness of the cloth, 
each and every feed should draw exactly the same length of stitch. 
Wlien unevenness of fabric shows in the cloth, it is often very difficult 
to locate the particular feeds that are not in even adjustment. The 
common practice of marking the yarn of each feed is the simplest, 
and perhaps the surest way of detecting which feeds are drawing 
more yarn. 



164 



KNITTING 



139 




— STEIM 



To do this effectively, twist the yarn between the fingers, which 
have been more or less soiled with oil, so that the marking on the yarn 
may be easily noted, then turn the machine slowly by hand until the 
marked places on the yarn reach their particular guides. If all the 
marks arrive at the holes in the guides at precisely the same time, the 
fabric will be even as regards the feeds. If one or more of the marked 
places arrive at the holes in the guides in 
advance of the others, it or they are draw- 
ing more yarn, and should be adjusted ac- 
cordingly. The cam drawing the longest 
loop will necessarily draw the mark to its 
guide first and should be slightly raised by 
means of the adjusting screw; the yarn with 
the mark farthest from the guide should be 
slightly adjusted down, to make it draw a 
longer loop. This operation must be re- 
peated until all the marks on the yarn ar- 
rive at the holes in the guides at precisely 
the same time. 

Adjustment of the Dial Cap. See that 
all the cap draw-in cams are set to draw the 
head or hook of the needle through the stitch. 
The adjustment of the cap which operates 
the dial needles should bear a certain rela- 
tion to the cam ring which actuates the cyl- 
inder needles. The cylinder needle should 

be made to draw down just in time to lay its thread on the latch 
directly to the rear of the rivet in the dial needle. This relation is 
governed by the circumferential adjustment of the cap on the center 
spindle. 

Now run the machine long enough to get an even weight on the 
fabric and to adjusfthe take-up rolls (Fig. 81) so that they will have 
an equal tension on their ends so as to make the fabric pass through 
evenly. At the end of the rolls, it may be seen whether the fabric is 
being drawn through too fast or too slowly; for if one end is slack, 
it is evident that there is a lack of tension on that particular end. At 
each end, there is a separate adjustment by means of which the fabric 




Scott & Williains 
Needles. 



155 



140 



KNITTING 



may be made to run evenly and smoothly. The take-up rolls should 
not be pressed together too firmly, and must be parallel to draw equally 
at both ends. 

After making the above adjustments, the knitter must ascertain 
what weight of fabric is desired, and adjust his machines accordingly. 
If only a slight adjustment of one or two stitches per inch is recjuired 




b'ig SI. Frame and Take-Up. 

to obtain the proper weight of fabric, it can be made by adjusting 
the dial spindle wheel; but for more than one or two stitches per inch, 
the adjustment should be made on the cylinder draw-down cams. 
This adjustment requires the marking of the yarn, as previously 
described, to ensure a perfect evenness of the fabric, after the proper 
weight has been obtained. 

To Slacken the Fabric, either lower the draw-down cam in the 



156 



KNITTING 



141 



ring, so that the needles will draw more loop, or raise the dial by 
loosenincy the retaining screw in the cross-bar, then turn the dial 




Ladies' Swiss vest. 
spindle wheel in the direction calculated to raise the center spindle; 
the cap and dial will come with it. As a rule, it is not good practice 
to have the dial any higher than just enough to give ample space to 



157 



142 



KNITTING 




Fig. 83. Housing Plates. 



permit of a free passage of the thickest portion of the work; further 
slackening of the cloth should be obtained by adjusting the draw-down 
cam in the ring, as stated heretofore. 

To Remove a Section of the Sectional Cam Ring. The sectional 
cam ring is provided for the purpose of obtaining easy access to the 
needle cylinder so as to remove and replace a broken needle or broken 
cam without removing the entire ring. After releasing the tension 

from the work by slackening the take-up 
rolls, take out the retaining screw which 
passes through the solid outer ring, and 
remove the central section. Now, it will 
1 )e possible to draw the cam section away 
in a direct line from the needle cylinder 
and disclose the needle cylinder, so that 
the difficulty may be located, and the 
broken needles or cams removed and re- 
placed by new ones. 

To restore the sections to their proper 
places, raise all the needles to a plane 
above the cams of the lower section ; force this section up to the cyl- 
inder, drop in the central section, and secure with the retaining 
screw. Draw the work down through the take-up rolls, and re- 
adjust it to get the proper tension on the cloth between the cylinder 
and take-up rolls, turning the machine partially around by hand to 
see that everything is working properly ; then ship on the power. 

In Readjusting the Cylinder Cams, it is necessary that the dial 
needle should draw back within the dial only sufficiently to ensure 
the knocking over of its stitch; any additional draw means an unnec- 
essary strain on the fabric, which will produce bad work. 

In Adjusting the Yarn Guide, the latches of both sets of needles 
should not be permitted (by the guide) to close down on the hooks of 
the needles. The forward end of the guide is supposed to intercept any 
latch that may be inclined to fly shut. It is also important to see that 
the guides occupy such a vertical position that there is sufficient room for 
the hooks of the dial needles to pass under the lower edge of the guide. 
Wlien the fabric is being examined to see that the knitting is 
perfect and clear of any tuck stitch, it will be found that the holes 



158 



KNITTING 



143 



and tuck stitches often occur through the faihire of the cap draw-in 
cams to draw the needles clearly through the stitch. If the machine 
is cutting holes in the fabric, without the presence of the tuck stitches, 
it may be prevented by setting the cap draw-in cams outward, as too 
much strain at this point cuts the yarn when knitting. 

The cylinder not only holds the lower needles, or needles for 
making the outside of the fabric, but the cylinder top or comb acts as 
a landing or knocking over point for the cylinder needles. The 




Fig. 83. 



Cam CyUnder, Showing Relative Positions of 
Cams, C'ross-Bars, Etc. 



cylinder cap or comb also acts as a knitting point for making the welt 
on a welting machine, as the dial needles are thrown out of action at 
this point of knitting. 

The Dial is not only a plate to hold a given number of needles 
according to the gauge of the machine, but it has another function 
to perform, in that the outer edge, or sinkers, of the dial act as a 
landing or knocking over point for the dial needles on the inside stitch. 

The Take=Up besides being present to perform its function of 
taking the knitted fabric from the needles as it is being made by the 
succeeding courses formed, is also employed as a weight or tension 



159 



144 



KNITTING 



to assist the opening of the needle latches, when the needles are clear- 
ing the old loops, prior to forming a new stitch. The take-up is also 
an important factor in forming the loops, as it is necessary to employ 
weight enough to carry the old loops out of the path of the needles 
without cutting the fabric. 

The take-up on the "revolving cylinder" type is called a friction 
take-up, and on the "stationary cylinder" types it is called a gravity 
or balance take-up. 

NUMBER OF NEEDLES. 

The following; table gives the total number of needles in each 
size machine, and the number of cuts in the cylinder, when the number 
of needles per inch is given, from 7 inches in diameter up to 24 inches 
in diameter. 

The numbers given below are the nearest numbers to the rate 
given that will divide by three, for making two and two fabric. 



14 to 1 


5 to 1 


6 to 1 


7 tol 


8 to 1 


9 to 1 


10 tol 


11 to 1 


12 to 1 




8" 


87 
99 


108 
126 


132 
150 


.156 

174 


174 

204 


198 
228 


222 
253 


240 
276 


364 
300 


7" 
8" 


9" 

10" 


114 
126 


138 

156 


168 
192 


198 
222 


228 
252 


253 

382 


282 
313 


312 
345 


336 
375 


9" 
10" 


11" 

12" 

13" 
U" 

15" 
16" 


138 
150 


174 
192 


207 
228 


240 
264 


276 
300 


312 
336 


345 
375 


372 
414 


414 
456 


11" 

12" 


165 
180 

192 
204 


207 
222 


252 

270 


288 
312 


324 
354 


375 
396 


408 
444 


444 
480 


504 
540 


13" 
14" 

15" 
16" 


240 
252 


288 
306 


336 
354 


372 
408 


432 
456 


480 
516 


516 
558 


576 
613 


1?" 

18" 


216 

228 


270 

282 


324 
342 

360~ 
384 


375 

396 

420 
444 


432 
456 

483 
504 


480 
516 

540 
576 


540 
570 

600 
624 


588 
624 

660 
690 


648 
690 

730 
768 


ir- 
is" 


19" 
20" 

21" 
22" 


240 
252 


300 
318 


19" 
30" 

21" 
22" 


264 

282 


336 

348 


396 

420 


468 
492 


540 
552 


600 
624 


660 
690 


733 
768 


804 
840 


28" 
21" 


288 
300 


372 
384 


444 
456 


504 
540 


588 
612 


660 
690 


732 
768 


804 
840 


876 
913 


23" 
24" 



It is a good practice to use eight needles to the inch for shaped 
goods, and ten to eleven needles to the inch for straight goods. 

GEARING. 

The gearing of each machine differs as to the size of the machine, 
but as a rule, like size driving pulleys on the driving shaft will produce 
the correct proportionate speed in the various sizes. 



160 



KNITTING 



145 



Detail of gearing and particulars of driving are contained in 
the following table. 



DIAMETER 

OF 
CYLINDER 


SPEED OF 
HEAD 


TEETH IN 
RING 


TEETH IN 
PINION 


DIAMETER 
DRIVING 
PULLEY 


WIDTH 
DRIVING 

pullp:y 


Tin. 


68 rev. 


153 


30 


7 in. 


n/i in. 


8 '• 


64 ■• 


164 


30 


7 '■ 


1/8 " 


9 " 


60 " 


140 


28 


7 '■ 


1/8 " 


10 " 


54 •' 


150 


28 


7 " 


1/8 " 


11 " 


50 " 


136 


28 • 


7 " 


lys " 


13 " 


46 ■' 


145 


28 


7 " 


1% " 


13 " 


43 " 


153 


28 


7 •• 


13/3 " 


14 •' 


38 " 


161 


28 


7 " 


1% ■' 


15 " 


34 ■' 


169 


38 


7 '• 


rVs - 


16 •' 


33 " 


176 


28 


7 " 


1/3 " 


17 •' 


30 " 


185 


28 


7 •' 


1/8 " 


18 ■' 


28 " 


195 


28 


7 " 


1/8 '• 


19 •' 


27 " 


205 


28 


7 " 


m " 


20 " 


26 " 


210 


28 


7 " 


m " 


22 " 


25 " 


244 


28 


7 " 


1% " 


24 " 


24 " 






7 " 


13/8 " 



The speed given here is a good average, but certain conditions 
require, perhaps, a low^er speed, and on the other hand, may admit of 
an increased speed. This is wholly a matter of judgment wath the 
knitter, for the nature of the yarn, its condition, the manner of winding 
and the climatic influences; in addition to the many other things that 
are not infrecjuently coming up to enter into the calculations of speed, 
are the most important factors in securing a large production. Wlien 
the yarn is running well, the speed should be increased judiciously. 
If it runs poorly and all other conditions are in their most favorable 
running order, the speed of the machine will have to be reduced to a 
point that will manipulate the yarn without too many stops. 

LEIQHTON FLAT HEAD LATCH NEEDLE MACHINE. 

This type of latch needle circular machine. Fig. S4, differs 
materially from the customary build of latch needle machines, in 
that the plate or horizontal needles are operated outside of the cylinder 
towards the center, instead of from the center outwardly to the edge 
of the cylinder. This is the reverse of the customary position of the 
cyUnder and dial type of machine. In this type, the horizontal or 
plate needles form the outside stitches, and the cylinder needles form 
the inside stitches of the fabric. It is the Leighton development of 
the Walter Aiken machine. 



161 



146 



KNITTING 



Dial Needle Plate. Fig. 85 represents the dial needle plate, and 
illustrates the principle on which these machines are built. As the 
needles are operated from the outside towards the center, and the butts 
of the needles on which the actuating cams operate are farther from 




Nye & Tredick Circular Latch Needle Machine 
of the Revolving Head Class. 

the center, the lands are thicker and stronger. The butts of the 
needles being wider apart than the gauge (at the inside edge of the 
needle plate) the yarn is taken into the machine with very little strain 
or stress, because each needle nearly completes its stitch before the 
next needle engages the yarn at the carrier; in this respect, somewhat 



162 



KNITTING 



147 




163 



148 



KNITTING 



resemblinfij the operation of the spring needle frame in forming its 
stitches. This feature admits of using a large range in size of yarn 
on the same gauge machine, though cylinders and needle plates of 
different gauges may be used in the same machine. 




Fig. 85. Needle Plate. 

Shogged or Racked Stitches. Among the other notable features 
of this machine, is the shogged or racked stitch, which forms the 
much desired edge for sweaters (Figs. 86 and 87) and other knitted 
garments. These stitches are made after knitting the body with the 
half cardigan, or royal fancy, the plain rib, or other stitches, as the 



164 



KNITTING 149 



character or style of the garment may recjuire. The shogged edges 
are formed automatically for any desired length at predetermined 
intervals, or may be made in a continuous, automatically racked web. 

If it is desired to produce a fabric with equal intervals of shogged 
and plain stitches, or other stitches alternating, or a racked, or shogged 
portion of fabric to form the bottom of the garment, the machine can 
be regulated, by means of the pattern chain, to effect such result 
automatically. 

Plated Goods. Another feature, is in knitting plated goods, i. c, 
both sides of wool yarn, with cotton yarn between. This, of course, 
can be done in any combination of wool, cotton and silk, or other yarns, 
as the character of the cloth, or the demand for a fabric, may require. 

These machines are designed and built for knitting straight, 
circular web, either plain rib, half cardigan, or tucked stitch, as used 
principally in making Swiss rib vests, pants, etc. Another style is 
for producing a variety of fancy knit combinations of stitches, in 
addition to the above, and also the regular fashioning machine, which 
automatically chajiges from plain rib to half cardigan or tuck stitches, 
as does any "automatic" for knitting underwear. 

The sleeves may also be fitted with the racking attachments, 
where it is desired to have a racked edge or finish to the cuffs, which 
will produce tubular ribbed cuffs with racked or shogged borders 
and edges, making a complete finish for the cuffs as illustrated in 
Figs. 88 and 89. 

Fig. 90 illustrates the circular ribbed sweater collar, showing 
automatically racked courses, made on the collar machine of this 
same type, which makes a circular collar with racked or finished edge, 
and with a variety of racked courses throughout tlie collar, as may 
be noted in the illustration. The machine works continuously, and 
automatically racks the courses as it knits. 

Fig. 91 represents the sweater and cardigan jacket machine, with 
double feed and striping attachment, and automatic racking attach- 
ment, that racks borders and bands of any width and at any part of 
the web, without attention from the knitter. 

Another important and desirable feature of these machines is 
the separating course of knitting (see across the middle of Figs. 86 and 
87), which enables the operator to separate the goods without cutting 
the fabric, leaving a clean, smooth, finished edge. 



165 



150 



KNITTING 




Fig. 86. 



Face of Sweater Cloth, Showing Separating 
Course and Racked Stitches. 



166 



KNITTING 



151 




Fig. 87. Back of Fig. 86. Racked Courses do not show on the Back. 



167 



152 



KNITTING 




i'lg. ss. Cutt-Racked Face. 



168 



KNITTING 



153 




Fig. 89. Cuff-Racked Back. 



169 



154 



KNITTING 



Fig. 92 represents the sweater machine tipped partly over, in 
order to give a more comprehensive -view of the top of the machine, 
and shows why the name "Flat Head" Circular Knitting INIachine 
was so distinctively applied to it. 

Method of Driving. The bed plate A, (Fig. 93), has the exten- 




Fig. 90. Circular Ribbed Sweater Collar, Racked Courses. 

sion A' to furnish bearings for the main shaft, which is provided with 
tight and loose pulleys, and has a bevel gear, or pinion, which engages 
the teeth of the dial cam plate A* to rotate it. The bolt A''^ on the 
yoke A'' enters a link A", wdiich is pivoted on an arm A^^ projecting 
from the shaft of the cylinder actuating cam hub B" (See Fig. 94), so 
that the hub will revolve in unison with the dial plate. The yoke A^ 
is connected to the cam plate by means of screws and supports, depend- 



170 



KNITTING 



155 



ing from it is the central shaft A^ (See also Fig. 94), having the attach- 
ed collar A" on which rests the hub of the large ring-like washer B 
loose on the shaft. The needle cylinder B^ is supported on the 




Fig. iil. Sweater and Cai-digau Jacket Machine. 

washer B, and prevented from rotating with the shaft by its projecting 
rib a engaging the fork B^. When the cam plate is rotated, the hub 
carrying the cams turns in unison with it and the needles in the sta- 
tionary cylinder are thereby actuated to form their stitches, and the 



171 



156 



KNITTING 



movable cams or projections a^ a" in the groove a^ actuate the dial 
needles in the stationary needle dial plate 3, which is a part of the 
bed plate A. (See also Figs. 93 and 94). 

The Dial Needle Bed. The dial needle bed is composed of two 




Fig, 93. Sweater and Cardigan Jacket Machine-Top \w\\. 

ring-like pieces 3 and 4, (See Fig. 95), which are bolted together, and 
the part 3 is connected with the frame bed A, the central part being 
grooved for the reception of the needles; the parts 3 and 4 being so 
shaped and attached as to leave a circular space in which is placed 
the segmental racking guides C. 

The Racking Mechanism. (Fig. 9G.) The racking guides C have 



172 



KNITTING 



157 



fastened to the under side the studs c, which are extended down 
through slots in part 4 of the dial needle bed and connected to a 
block^'c' sustained in place by a nut c\ These blocks are connected 
by means of links c' C to levers c' c\ having a common fulcrum. Each 




lever having a cam roller entering one of two grooves in the periphery 
of the cam hub c^'^ fastened to shaft d, having loosely mounted upon 
it a worm gear having its sleeve inserted in a bearing made m the 



173 



158 



KNIITING 



extension A\ the gear being engaged and rotated by a worm d?, 
carried by a sleeve d*, fast on the continuously rotated driving shaft 
Al (See also Fig. 93). 

The worm gear forms part of a clutch mechanism illustrated 
at Fig. 66 (Part II), so arranged that during the regular knitting, 
motion is not transmitted to the racking mechanism. This is accom- 
plished by means of a pattern chain mechanism, which by means of 
the high and low links in the pattern chain, controls the clutch that 




Fig. 94. Sectional View of Head. 



lets the worm wheel start the shaft d and cam c^" at such times as pre- 
determined to rack or shog the stitch, by deflecting the needles a 
little back of their hooked ends, putting them a little to one side of 
their true radial positions, so that they may, for some stitches, pass 
certain of the cylinder needles at one side, and for other stitches, pass 
the same needles at the other side, and remain in either of their two 
or changed conditions to knit any desired number of courses. 

Fig. 95 shows part of the dial needle bed, dial cam plate, the top 
of the cylinder needle cam grooved for the cylinder needles, and the 



174 



KNITTING 



159 



cylinder needle bed, with some of the dial needles, the parts being 
in position for regular knitting. Needle 21, in the lower diagram of 
Fig. 95, if pushed forward, will enter the space between the grooves 
5 and 6 for the cylinder needles; but when the racking guide C is 
moved to rack the needles, they will be moved, as in the upper diagram 
of Fig. 95, so that the needle 21 will pass to the right of the groove 5 
and the needle 22 \\dll enter the space between the grooves 5 and 6. 




Fig. 95. Part of Dial Needle Bed. Cam Plate, etc. The Needle.s 
and Racking Guide in Different Positions. 

This change of position of the dial needles, causing them to enter 
between different cylinder needles from those with which they co- 
operate in regular knitting, makes a change of stitch, and the stitch 
is designated as a "racked'^ or "shogged" stitch. The links on the 
pattern chain act at the proper and predetermined time to throw 
the racking mechanism out of action, and the regular knitting is 
resumed, unless it is desired to introduce the separating course to 
make a finished edge. 

The Separating Course. (See Fig. 86.) One garment being 



175 



160 KNITTING 



knitted, to form a finish for the next garment, a separating course 
is made by casting the stitches from the dial needles. To do this, the 
dial needles are given an inward motion by a movable throw-in cam, 
which enables all the loops held on their shanks, to be brought behind 
the latches. To effect this, a hnk, Fig. 96, just at the rear of the series 
of high links used for racking, is provided at its side, with a pin 24, 
which acts on an arm /, fixed on the rack shaft /^ which then, by 
means of its connections, causes the rod g to rise, lifting the cam plate 
cf, raising it into operative position. 

\Vlien the cam plate is lifted, it is in position to be struck by the 
end 25 (Fig. 93) of the lever </", which, in its inward movement carries 
with it the cam (f, pivoted to the dial needle plate at (f, causing the 
plate in its new position to act on the butts of the dial needles, and 
move them inwardly far enough for their latches to pass through the 
loops on their shanks, so that the dial needles, when drawn back? 
are enabled to cast oft* the work previously held upon them. The 
movement of the lever to move the cam g^ into its extreme working 
position, also acts to push outwardly a stop U, so that it meets the 
catch h^, which acted temporarily to engage in a notch and hold up 
the rod g, letting the rod and cam g^ immediately drop. When the 
lever g"^ is pusiied in, it should be held in for one rotation of the dial 
plate, and to do this, is provided the latch h'^, pivoted on the dial cam 
plate at 1}J\ and kept in place by a spring. The latch at its opposite 
end, has a heel, which in the rotation of the dial cam plate, meets the 
top of an inclined lug If, which immediately effects the release of the 
lever g"^, letting the spring draw it back into its normal position, after 
the separating course is made. 

Tuck or Royal Rib. As rib knitting is commonly done on two 
sets of needles, when the fabric is made of that form called tuck or 
royal rib, it is customary to place the needles of one set in side position 
with relation to the thread guide, or guides used to supply such needles 
that they will receive the yarn, but will not be immediately withdrawn 
far enough to cast off their loops and knit. These same needles, how- 
ever, knit when brought into such relation to a second thread guide 
that they may receive the thread, the needles casting their loops and 
knitting after they have taken the thread from the second thread guide, 
or from the same thread guide the second time, as when there is but 
one thread guide. 



X76 



KNITTING 



161 



The thread guides referred to always supply threads to the need- 
les,whether knitting tuck or royal rib, or plain rib. When tuck or royal 
rib is being knitted, the needles actually knit only at alternate thread 
guides, consequently but half the number of courses will be knitted 
as when plain rib is being made, for during the knitting of plain rib, 
every needle knits its thread before taking another thread. 

Royal Rib or Tuck Stitch. The royal rib or tuck stitch differs 
from plain rib knitting only that in plain rib knitting, the cylinder 
needles, after receiving a thread, are actuated to knit before receiving 
another thread; whereas in royal rib or tuck stitch, the hooks of the 




Fig. 96. Side View of Head and Mechanism for Controlling the 
Movements of the Dial Needle Racking Guide. 



cylinder needles are provided with two threads before the needles 
are depressed to knit. 

Welts are commonly knit on the needles of a rib knitting machine 
by temporarily discontinuing the action of one set of needles, putting 
them out of action yet permitting them to hold their loops. After a 
few courses of knitting have been effected on the one set of needles, 
the loops of the last course of the welt are joined with the loops held 
on the stems of the needles which had been temporarily put out of 
action. When knitting a welt with one set of needles only, the length 
of the welt is limited to the number of loops, or courses, that the needles 
will accommodate without loading up to the danger point. 



177 



162 KNITTING 



STARTING UP A LEIGHTON riACHINE. 

The machine should stand perfectly level after being fastened 
to the floor. The driving shaft should be speeded to allow the driving 
pulley to be about ten inches in diameter to avoid undue strain on the 
belts, and the consequent wearing of the shaft bearings. The bobbin 
stand on the spindle of the machine should be adjusted in position 
to connect the chain of the load-up stop motion with the stop-dog on 
the bobbin stand, and fastened to the spindle with the set screws pro- 
vided for that purpose. 

The needles should be inspected to see that they are all lying prop- 
erly in their grooves, and that none are partly out, or otherwise dis- 
arranged. The yarn guides should be set in position to deliver the 
yarn into the hooks of the needles, and the latch openings adjusted 
to go through the hooks of the needles in the proper manner. Put 
on the yarn and turn the machine a few times, in order to make siu'e 
that the yarn guides are properly adjusted to perform their function, 
and are feeding the yarn to the needles without hindrance. 

Adjust the weight on the take-up so that the web is fairly taut 
when touched with the hand; the weight should be moved farther out 
on the arm for heavy yarns, and for very light yarns, the weight may 
be removed entirely. Sometimes when using the lightest yarns, it 
becomes necessary to hang a light weight on the small hook in front 
of the take-up. 

When there is a web on the needles, it is only necessary to thread 
up each feed and start up the machine, then, when a short length of 
fabric has been knitted, it is well to examine it to see that the stitches 
are all being made the same length. If one feed is drawing in yarn 
faster than the others, or some feeds are drawing in less yarn and 
making shorter stitches than others, they must be adjusted to all draw 
alike, and thereby make the stitches even. To do this, mark each 
yarn the same distance from the guide or carrier, and note which 
feeds use it up the fastest. The draw cams are provided with an ad- 
justing screw for the purpose of adjusting the cam in or out, to shorten 
or lengthen the stitch, as the conditions may recjuire. The cylinder 
needles should be allowed to draw sufficient thread to cast off their 
stitches freely. 

In this "Flat Head" type of machine, the horizontal or plate 



178 



KNITTING 



163 



HOOK 




needles regulate the amount of yarn consumed in making the stitches, 
and it is very seldom necessary to raise or lower the cylinder, the only 
object in doing so being to allow sufficient throat for the web to pass 
through freely from the needles, ^^^len the stitches are all eveneil 
and a perfect fabric is being knit, make up the garment measuring 
chain, so that it will give the desired length to the garments 

Dropping Stitches from the plate 
needles, or the outside of the web, is 
generally owing to the yarn guide 
!;eing too high above the needles, 
thereby allowing the yarn to slip over 
the hooks of the needles; or it may be 
caused by the latches flying shut, as 
they pass through the stitch. The yarn 
guide should guard them at this point 
and keep them open. Another cause 
for dropping stitches is that the stitch 
may lift off the hook if the stitch 
steels are too far back of the yarn 
carrier when the needles push forward 
after drawing a full length of stitch; 
the steel on which the hook rests should 
move from under that needle, by the 
time the hook reaches the edge of the 
steel, otherwise the steel may lift the 
stitch off the hook. 

If the stitches are dropping on the 
inside of the fabric, the cylinder cam 
plug may be set too far forward, . and 
the cylinder needle latches may fly closed just as they rise through 
the stitch. The yarn keeps these latches open if the cam plug is not 
too far ahead; on the other hand, if the cam plug is set too far back, 
the yarn will be laid behind the cylinder needle latches and clcse 
them up. \Mien the cylinder plug and the plate needle are matched 
correctly, the cylinder needle will be drawing its stitch, just as the 
plate needle is coming forward over the steel. 

Large holes in the work are usually caused by a defective needle 



-BODlf 



SHANK 



Fig. '.)' 



•SHAim 

. Leighton Needles. 



179 



164 



KNITTING 



with either a crooked latch or a bent hook. Small holes are usually 
caused by knots in the yarn. 

A rough stitch along one of the ribs in the web often indicates 
a loose rivet in the needle, and as all such marks in any one or more 
ribs can be easily traced to its needle, by following up the rib on the 
outside of the cylinder, such causes for poor work can be easily detected 




Face. 2 and 1 Ribbed Fiibric. 



and remedied by replacing the imperfect needle with a perfect one. 
Broken needles may be taken out of the cylinder or plate any time, 
without removing the keys or slides. 

If the trouble is that the yarn breaks, it can, in many cases, be 
located by examining the ends of the yarn. If the ends of the yarn 



180 



KNITTING 



165 



look as though they had been cut off squarely, as with scissors, it 
will, as a rule, be found to have been cut by the latch of the needle 
shutting on the thread; if the ends of the yarn are fine and tapered, 
the cause may be found to be a twist in the yarn: if the ends are long, 
and look untwisted, the cylinder needle is probably drawing its stitch 




Back. 2 and 1 Ribbed Fabric. 



before the let up of the plate needle in which case, the cam plug should 
be let back a trifle. This is accomplished by means of the adjusting 
screw in the bottom, which connects the plug with the yoke of the 
machine. 

If a quarter should from any cause run off the needles, push the 
edge of the web over the plate needles, just forward of the yarn car- 



181 



166 KNITTING 



riers, or if the web is thin, the needles will push through it, by simply 
lifting the web up in front of the needles. The extra wide throat of 
the machine at the places ahead of the yarn carrier permits of this 
being easily done. 

In starting the racking machine after a quarter runs off, it is 
necessary to see that the racking or shogging chains are in proper 
position to start a new garment. 

The flyings of the yarn should be blown out of the machine 
occasionally. This may be easily done with a piece of pasteboard, 
or other like article used as a fan. 

Cams. If there is any indication of breaking the shanks off the 
needles, after the machines have been running a short time, it is best 
to take the draw or knock-off cams out of the machine to see that they 
are smooth and free from any nicks or marks. 

\^^ien the stitch cams or knock-off cams are ground, or a new one 
put into tlie machine, it is a good practice to see that the first corner 
is rounded a little and the balance sloped off after leaving the end wide 
enough to hold two needles at full length of the stitch. If more than 
two needles are held back, they may break holes in the web. 

The cams on ike cam plate or horizontal needles can be inspected 
by taking out the two screws which fasten the segments to the cam 
plate; the segment can then be slipped to the left by turning the 
machine by hand a short distance, holding the segment stationary; in 
returning the segment to place, drop it over the needles in its proper 
position, and slide it to the right, until the screw holes come into 
line, insert the screws and fasten down tightly. 

The knock-off cams in the cylinder can be removed by taking out 
the large headed screw which acts as a stop to that cam when knitting 
the tuck stitch; the cam can then be removed and replaced in the same 
way. By pulling the knuckle pin, the ring can be moved to any posi- 
tion by hand. If after putting the machines together again, any drop 
stitches appear in the web, it may be found that the cylinder cam plug 
requires re-adjustment„ 

If the geared ring carrying the steels should get misplaced in 
taking a machine apart, it can be set into proper position by loosening 
the buttons on the outside of the cam plate, then lifting this plate out 
of mesh with the driving gear; turn the shaft backward or forward 
sufficiently to set the steels in their proper position. 



183 



KNITTING 167 



\Mien it is desired to make faced goods with one face of the fabric 
wool and the other or back of cotton, it is only necessar}^ to thread 
the wool yarn into alternate carriers and the cotton yarn into the others. 

Wlien it is desired to make plated goods, with wool or silk surfaces 
and the middle or interior of the fabric of cotton, the wool threads 
should run through the quirl guides nearest the center of the machine 
near the carrier, and the cotton in the quirls next to the outside of the 
machine. Such plating can be done on the outside or inside surface 
of all tucked goods by threading alternate carriers with cotton, 
according to the side on which it is desired to show the wool. Thread- 
ing the wool and cotton into all the carriers as above described to 
plate, will give both surfaces plated, either plain rib or tuck stitch. 

FLAT OR STRAIGHT LATCH NEEDLE MACHINES, OR 

THE LAMB SYSTEM. 

THE LAMB KNITTING MACHINE. 

The machine illustrated at Fig. 98, is constructed upon the novel 
principle of employing two straight, parallel rows of needles suffi- 
ciently near each other to connect the two rows of knitting at eitlier 
end, but far enough apart to allow the fabric to pass down between 
them as it is knitted. 

Position of Needles. The two rows of needles are placed opposite 
each other, in grooves in a steel needle bed, the two sides of which 
slope from each other like the roof of a house, and are separated at 
the ridge, or center, where the needles form the stitches. 

A carriage is propelled by a crank back and forth over the needle 
bed. This carriage contains, under each side, an arrangement of 
automatic cams, called a lock, (one for each row of needles) for operat- 
ing the needles up and down in the grooves; and also carries a yarn 
guide for delivering the yarn from the bobbin into the hooks of the 
needles as they are moved up by the cams. As the carriage is driven 
over the needle bed, the needles are moved up, fed by the yarn, and 
drawn down almost simultaneously, all the needles forming stitches 
wath one revolution of the crank. 

The lock is so constructed that by adjusting a cam stop, (this 
being possible without stopping the machine) the cam lock may be 
opened or closed, (but engages the needles only when open) in such 
a manner as to cause four different styles of fabric to be produced, 



183 



168 



KNITTING 




184 



KNITTING 169 



as follows : By operating continuously the back row of needles toward 
the right, and the front row toward the left, a tiihnlar or circular web 
is produced. Operating both rows together in one direction and 
then one row in the other direction, will produce the double flat web, 
or Afghan siiich. Operating both rows together in both directions, 
produces the ribbed or seamed flat web, and operating forward and 
back each row alternately, connects the two rows of knitting at one 
end, leaving them open at the other, thereby forming the wide flat web. 

In knitting any of the above webs, if every second, third or fourth 
needle, or a combination of them, in one or both rows is not used, 
other varieties of stitches can be formed, which make different stvles 
of fabric. 

Only those needles wliich are moved up within range of the cam 
are used. Any number of needles, in one or both rows, may be 
employed at the start, and the niunber be increased or diminished 
at any time, so any size of work, tubular or flat, and either single, 
double or ribbed, can be set up and widened or narrowed to any 
extent, producing such articles as union suits, fashioned hose, mittens, 
cardigan jackets, sweaters, etc. The two parallel rows of needles 
operating alternately, or crossing and uniting so as to form stitches 
on both sides of the fabric, is the distinguishing principle of the I^amb 
machine, in fact has come to be what is known as the Lamb system. 

Referring to Fig. 98, the parts are as follows: A, tension nut; 
B, take-up spring; C, yarn guide; D, latch opener; E, work; F, 
buckle; G, hands, eccentric levers and thumb nuts; H, H, stops; 
J, jack wires or bitts; K, spool stand; L, thumb screws; M, slide 
plate; N, take-up stand; O, V-eyelet; P, needle stops; R, counter; 
S, weight hook; T, needle bed; U, carriage; V, caps. 

Construction. As appears by examining the cut of the short 
carriage machine. Fig. 99, the bed frame consists of two parallel ways 
to which, at the desired angle and at the proper distance apart, is fitted 
the needle bed; at the right end of the frame are projections forming 
the bearings for the crank shaft. A connecting rod connects the 
crank with a projection of the carriage; by these means the carriage 
is propelled back and forth across the needle bed. On the back of 
the frame are projections for securing it to the bench or table. The 
term bed includes the two plates, (front and back) and the frame to 
which they are attached. 



185 



KNITTING 171 



quality of work that is made on the machine when making any of 
the ribbed stitches. If very coarse or loose work is called for, the 
throat must be wide; and if close, snappy or elastic work, the throat 
must be as close as will allow the work to pass down without hindrance. 
As for the sleeve of a jacket; the part from the shoulder to the cuff 
should be loose, while the cuff should be as close and snappy as pos- 
sible. To do this to the best advantage, use the adjustable throat, 
which is easily changed from loose to close. 

Locks. The cut common locks, Fig. 101, represents the under side 
of a short carriage showing common locks. It is the.function of these 
locks to operate the needles up and down to form the tubular stitch. 

The cut automatic drop locks, Fig. 102, represents the under side 
of a short carriage showing the automatic drop locks which do away 
with cam stops, and enable the operator to make the tuck or polka 
stitch on the inside of the needle hook, instead of on the outside, as 
done by the cardigan lock and all other locks making this and the 
cardigan stitch. 

The automatic tubular locks, Fig. 103, are used for the same 
purpose as the common locks, but, being automatic, they do away 
with the cam stops and with them it is not necessary to run the car- 
riage over the full length of the bed, but only far enough to pass all 
the needles in action. 

The cardigan lock differs from the common lock chiefly in the 
arrangement of the wing cams, it being their function to draw down 
the needles. The wing cams (see B, Fig. 104) of the cardigan lock 
are made so that the needles can hold two stitches, when the carriage 
goes in one direction, and cast two and take one on in the other direc- 
tion, and also form a shorter stitch. The wing cams of the common 
lock never take nor cast but one stitch at a time. 

The racking plates are for the purpose of making oblique stitches 
in fancy patterns, or finishing for borders or edges. 

Cam Stops. The Cam Stops H, H are (see C, Figs. 98 and 105) 
the four short bars at each corner of the needle bed that act on the 
slide plate M, (also B in Fig. 106) extending below the carriage, and 
open and shut the cams. 

The Yarn Guide C delivers the yarn into the hooks of the needles, 
and must move at the same distance from each row, and as close as 
possible to them without touching. 



187 



172 



KNITTING 



Latch Openers. The steel plates fastened to the carriage, with 
upper ends hooked and having knife edges, are called the latch openers 
(See D, Fig. 98, also Fig. 105). Their function is to open or guard 
the latches of the needles, so as to admit the yarn into the hooks, and 
also to hold the latches down, out of the way of the yarn guide. 

The Counter. The counter R (Fig. 98) is for the purpose of 
relieving the operator from counting while working. Turn the dial 




Fig. 100. 8-inch Bed, Showing Drop-Jack. 

SO that the pointer will rest on one hundred, and at every revolution 
of the crank, the dial will move one point, thus indicating each round 
knit. 

Gibs. The needles are held in position by two flat slides with 
bevelled edges, called gibs, on which the carriage runs. 

Weights. The work E is drawn down through the machine, 
between the jacks, by a weight on the weight hook S. As the object 
of weights on the fabric is to draw the loops off the needles as fast as 
made, it requires only just such an amount as will do this well. On 
coarse yarn, full width, four pounds is usually enough. With narrower 
width or finer yarn, three pounds; when operating less than thirty 
needles, use two pounds, etc. More weight is required in knitting 



188 



KNITTING 173 



close, than in knitting loose. Cotton yarn requires more weight than 
woolen. 

The Buckle. The buckle, F, which fastens on the fabric, is 
used only on long work; for all ordinary work, the combs are used. 

Hands, Eccentric, (or Thumb) Nuts and Levers. The four 
hands, or pointers, on the carriage, are governed by the four thumb 
nuts 1 and 4 on the front side and 2 and 3 on the back side. The 
hands are connected with the wing cams. The wing cams draw the 
needles down, as the loops are formed, and determine the distance 
to be traversed by the needles. The farther the needle is drawn 
down, the longer the loop, and consequently the looser knit will be 
the fabric; the shorter the loops, the closer the fabric. 

The Tension Take=up. If all the needles are in use, but little 
slack of the yarn will occur in any part of the traverse of the carriage; 
but if some of the middle needles are not in use, and the yarn is still 
being drawn out the full length of the needle bed, when the carriage 
moves one way, there will be a certain amount of slack yarn when it 
moves back; and the same thing will occur at the other end of the 
needle bed. The fewer the needles in use, the greater will be the 
length of the slack yarn. 

As uniform tension is of great importance in a knitting machine, 
it is necessary to apply some device to all straight knitting machines, 
which will take up all slack yarn, and yet constantly exert a uniform 
tension on the thread of yarn that is passing into the needles, ^^^lile 
the carriage is changing from one direction to the other, the yarn is 
held by the little weight (See Fig. 107) in the center of the cross piece, 
which drops upon it, as the take-up spring, changing from a horizon- 
tal position to perpendicular, releases the lever which holds the weight 
up while knitting. This applies more particularly to locks using 
cam stops than to drop locks. 

ADJUSTING AND OPERATING. 
Formation of Stitch and Operation of Needle. WTien knitting 
to the left, on the front row of circular work, the needles are moved up 
by the left side of the center cam, which is V shaped. Before they 
reach the highest point, the loops, one by one, slip down below the 
latches. On the right, the needles are drawn down again, at the same 
angle, by the wing cam. As the needles are drawn down, the yarn 



189 



174 



KNITTING 



is caught in the hooks, and the old loops pass under the latches, turning 
them over on the hooks. The needles continue downward until the 
loops slip over the ends, and the yarn is drawn through the old loops, 
forming a new set on the needles. 

Position of the Needles. To place a needle in working position, 
move it upward until the hook is between the jack wires, or bitts J, 
Fig. 98. To move it out of position, draw it dow^l half an inch, or 

as far as it will go. The needles 
should be moved up by the bow 
springs or needle stops P, at the 
bottom of the needle bed T, and 
drawn down by the shanks of 
the needles. The needles should 
be kept in working position or en- 
tirely dra^\^l down, for if left half 
way between, the shanks are ex- 
posed to the cams, and the break- 
age of needles or needle bed will 
occur when the machine is set in 
motion. 

Adjusting the Tension. The 
tension nut A (Fig. 98) on the take-up stand, governs the wire take-up, 
B. To increase the tension turn the nut from you. To decrease it 
turn the nut toward you. In knitting stockings medium size, adjust 
the nut so that take-up wire stands about perpendicular. On double 
webs full width, diminish the tension so that the end of take-up wire 
is about two inches above the eye in the stand. The fewer needles 
in use, the more tension required, and coarse yarn requires more ten- 
sion than fine yarn. 

The yarn carrier traverses the full width of machine, but knitting 
is done at various widths. This occasions slack yarn, at either end, 
between the fabric and yarn guide. It requires only such a tension, 
in connection with take-up, as will draw in this slack and make the 
fabric perfect at the corners. The less tension used the easier the 
machine will operate. 

To Tighten or Loosen the Stitch. The wing cams draw the need- 
les down as the loops are formed and determine the distance to 




Fig. 101. Common Lock.s. 



190 



KNITTING 



175 



be traversed by the needles. The farther the needle is drawn down, 
the longer it makes the loop and the looser will be the fabric. The 
hands G are attached to the wing cams. ^Mien the hand points to 
1 at the top of the dial, the loops are shortest and the fabric closest. 
\^lien the pointer is on the largest numeral, the loops will be longest 
and the fabric loosest. 

TO SET UP THE WORK FOR A MITTEN. 

Put up twenty-four needles (on each side), and draw down every 
third needle, commencing with the second from the end, then fasten 
the upright rod into the base of the spool-stand, so that each hole in 
the top plate comes directly above the wire post in the base. Place a 
spool of yarn on one of these posts, and draw the end of the yarn 
through the hole in the top plate directly above it. 

Place the spool-stand K back of the needle bed with the spool 
to be used facing the machine. Have the crank at the left hand and 
move out right hand cam stop H on back side. Turn the crank to 
the right. Pass the yarn through the wire eye on top of take-up 
stand N, then through the V shaped 
wire O or hole in front end of the 
take-up stand N, and down through 
yarn guide C, dropping the end 
down between jacks J about six 
inches. Turn crank to the left and 
put in right hand stop, back-side. 
Both rows of needles have been 
moved up and taken the yarn, draw- 
ing it down in a sort of network. 
Draw the wire out of the comb Y, 
(Fig. 109) and push the teeth up 
through the network from below, 
and then run the wire into the teeth 
again over the network. Attach to this comb a weight stand and a 
two pound weight. Turn the tension nut A back a trifle more than 
a quarter of a revolution, so that the take-up wire B stands about 
perpendicular, or leans backward a little. • Now spring down the 
take-up wire B and hook it on the yarn between the guide C and the 
take-up stand, then knit eighteen times round. 




Fig. 103. Automatic Di'op Locks. 



191 



176 



KNITTING 



Push up the needles drawn down and with the work hook (Fifr. 
109) pick up the last stitches or loops cast off the needles next to the 
ones pushed up, and put the loops on the empty needles. Knit four 
rounds, then widen for thumb as follows: Push up a needle at right 
hand on both front and back side and with a three point narrowing 
comb (W, Fig. 109) take the stitches on the three outside needles and 
put them on what are now the three outside needles including the 
needle just pushed up. This leaves the fourth needle empty. With 

the work hook pick up the last loop 
cast off of the fifth needle and put it 
on the fourth. Knit three round 
and widen again and so continue to 
widen until seven stitches are taken 
on each side. Use three point comb 
for widening the first three needles 
or for three stitches or less, then use 
four, five, and six, knitting three 
rounds between each. After the 
last widening knit six times round, 
then throw off these stitches which 
have been wi3ened for the thumb 
on thumb combs X (Fig. 109) and 
draw the empty needles down out of working position and knit thirty 
rounds, then narrow as follows : Leave five stitches at one end, and 
with a five point narrowing comb transfer the next five stitches one 
needle toward the center; then transfer the five stitches, lift at the 
end two needles toward the center, and draw down out of opera- 
tion the empty needles thus left. Repeat this process at the 
other three corners of the web. Knit four rounds. Leave four 
stitches at one end and with the next size comb, four points; transfer 
in the same manner as before. Knit three rounds. Leave three stitches 
at one end, and with next size comb, three points, transfer as before. 
Knit two rounds. Take three stitches from end, transfer one toward 
center; then take the outside stitch and transfer one toward center. 
This being repeated at each corner will leave all the needles with two 




Fig.l 03. Automatic Tubular Locks. 



stitches on them, 
machine. 



Knit two rounds and take the work from the 



192 



KNITTING 



177 



To Knit the Thumb. Drop the jack J and pick the stitches 
which were thrown off after widening, into the machine; seven on 
each side. Make two new stitches by taking two loops from the 
hand, thus making sixteen stitches in all; then knit eighteen times 
round and narrow off as follows: Narrow every third stitch and knit 
three times round, then every second stitch and knit twice round. 
Take the work from the machine, ravel once round, fasten the ends, 
cut open the wTist and crochet off, or when knitting the wrist knit it 
long enough to fold inside, making it double thickness. 
Table of Sizes for Hittens. 



Stitches. 


Rounds for 
Wrist. 


Stitches to 

Widen for 

Thumb. 


Rounds for 
Hand. 


Stitches for 
Thumb. 


Rounds for 
Thumb. 


21 
24 
27 
30 


16 

18 
20 
30 


6 

7 
8 
9 


25 
30 
35 
40 


7 
8 
9 
10 


16 
18 
20 

23 



TO KNIT GLOVES. 

Put up twenty-four needles (on each side;) draw down every 
third needle, commencing with the second from the end. Set up the 
work and knit eighteen times round. Push up the needles drawn 
down and put a loop on each needle, the same as in widening. Knit 
twice round, then widen for thumb as follows: Push up a needle at 
right hand on both front and back side and put a loop on each as in 
widening by hand. Knit four rounds, then push up two more needles 
at right hand and with transfer comb take a stitch from the needles 
previously widened and put them on these needles. Knit four rounds 
and widen again, this time transfer two stitches; so continue to widen 
until you have seven stitches on each side; use 3 comb for three stitches 
or less, then use 4, 5 and 6, knitting four rounds between each, after 
the last widening. Knit around six times, then throw off five of these 
stitches on each side which have been widened for thumb; knit sixteen 
times round, then at left hand throw off three stitches on each side; 
knit two rounds, and throw off next five stitches on each side; knit 
two rounds, throw off seven on each side; this leaves eleven stitches 
on each side; knit thirty rounds and narrow every third stitch, knit 
two more and narrow every second stitch; knit two rounds and take 
from the machine. 

To make the second finger, have the crank at right hand, then 



193 



178 



KNITTING 



with thumb at right, pick the next twelve stitches (six on each side) 
into the machine, and ravel once round; cut thread near the finger 
and pick out ten stitches, five each side of opening, separating finger 
from hand front side; pick these into machine beside those already 
in, putting those from finger on back side, and those from hand on 
front side; knit thirty-five rounds and narrow as before. Repeat for 
third and fourth fingers, using ten stitches and thirty rounds for third, 
and nine stitches and twenty-two rounds for fourth. 

For thumb, ravel once round, cut the thread and pick each way, 
both front and back, until there are ten in all picked out, five on hand, 
and five on thumb; pick into machine, knit twenty-two rounds and 
narrow off. 

For left hand glove knit the same until you pick in stitches for 
second finger, then with thumb at left hand, proceed as directed above 
for knitting fingers. 

Table of Sizes for Gloves. 













^ 


u 


u 






















o 

to ii 

1? 


u 

o 

■O to 


u 

o o 

2 0) a 


o a u 


O 

11 


o . 

*i W) 

•ji u a 


o 


O u 

oa CD 

*^ O CI 
r^ O 


o <u 
cofl 


o — 


o be 
"" a 

CDPh 

•3 CI 


M 

■OHH 
C? 


1^ 

•3 CO 


oco 


".2 
"5 


0^ 


Si 

. 
oj ci 

•3^ 


. 

■Si 


(n 


« 


c« 


c« 


K 


ifi 


rj} 


Ji 


M 


« 


12 


K 
35 


C/J 

10 


W 
30 


8 


K 
22 


10 


22 


24 


16 


7 


5 


16 


3 


5 


7 


11 


30 


27 


18 


8 


6 


18 


4 


6 


7 


12 


33 


12 


38 


11 


32 


9 


24 


11 


24 


30 


20 


9 


7 


20 


5 


7 


8 


13 


34 


13 


40 


12 


35 


10 


26 


12 


28 


33 


20 


10 


8 


22 


6 


7 


9 


13 


38 


14 


44 


12 


38 


11 


28 


13 


30 


36 


22 


11 


9 


24 


6 


8 


10 


14 


40 


15 


48 


13 


40 


11 


30 


14 


33 



KNITTING A SOCK COMPLETE. 

Put up thirty needles on the front row and the same on the back, 
then draw down every third needle put up, beginning with the second 
needle from the end. Set up the work as usual, and attach a two- 
pound weight. Before attaching the take-up spring, bind off the top 
as follows: With the crank at the left, push up the back needles, on 
which the work is set, as far as they will go; draw off the slack thread 
below the yarn guide about ten inches; and beginning at left wind 
this yarn (next to needles) as loosely as possible around each needle 
moved up. Pass the yarn under each needle and wind it around the 
hook to the left, sliding the needles down with the left thumb as fast 
as they are wound, far enough to cast off the stitches; then bind the 
front row in the same manner, beginning at the right hand. Adjust 
the take-up spring to take up the slack, and hook it on the yarn between 



194 



KNITTING 



179 



the take-up and the yarn-guide; knit twenty-five rounds and then put 
up the needles drawn down (every third), and knit one round. 

For length of leg, knit seventy rounds. Have crank at left. 

For the heel, set hand 1 at "close", and 3 same as 2. Put out 
both right hand cam-stops. Knit two rounds, at the same time draw- 
ing down on the back part of the fabric with the left hand. Now put 
the large triangular wire over the work, draw it down well between 
the rows of knitting, and attach to it a weight-stand and one-pound 
weight. Remove the two-pound weight from the set-up comb, leaving 
the weight-stand only. 

For the length of heel, knit ten rounds, or one-third as many as 
there are needles in use on front side, stopping with crank at left. 
To prevent the work from rising up on the back needles while knitting 




Fig. 104. Cams. A, "V" Cam. B, Wing Cam. 
C, Cardigan Cam for Common Lock. 

the length of the heel, draw down on back part of it with the left hand. 

Then lessen the weight on back, leaving only the weight-stand. 
Next take a worsted needle, threaded with a piece of yarn, and pass the 
needle up from below through the 11th stitch from the right. Tie 
this yarn underneath, and remove the weight-stand from the set-up 
comb on front, and hook it upon this yarn. Add to this a one-pound 
weight. With crank at left, push up, as far as they will go, 10 needles 
at right hand, back row. Transfer the stitch from 10th needle to 
11th, the next needle to the left. Slide the other 9 needles partially 
down; not quite far enough to cast off stitches. 

Place one of the small combs on the front side, opposite these 9 
needles, and with the work-hook transfer the stitches from these nee- 



195 



180 



KNITTING 



dies to the hooks of the comb. Draw the empty needles down out of 
working position. Turn crank to right. Push up as far as they will 
go the 10 needles at left hand, back row, and transfer the stitch from 
the 10th needle to the 11th. Place the other small comb opposite 
these 9 needles, and transfer the stitches from them to the comb, draw- 
ing down the empty needles as before. 

To knit the cap for the heel on the remaining 10 needles in use, the 
crank should be held at the lowest point and moved back and forth 
only far enough to form each end stitch. Every time the crank is 
moved to the left, transfer a stitch from the right hand comb to the 1 1th 




^ 



Fig. 105. Cam Stop C, Front Latch Openers B, 
and Back Latch Openers A. 



or end needle; and every time the crank is moved to the right, transfer 
a stitch at left in the same way. With the crank at the left, transfer the 
last stitch from each comb, both at once. (In transferring stitches, 
be careful to carry the stitch straight across from the comb into the 
hook of the needle, without turning or twisting the stitch.) Remove 
the small combs and triangular wires. Put in both right hand stops, 
and replace the hands, setting 3 at "close" and 1 same as 2. Remove 
the weight from the back, leaving the weight-stand. 

Now put up at right hand the 10 needles drawn down, and one 



196 



KNITTING 



181 



extra needle on front and hack. With the flat end of work-hook, push 
up, from underneath, the selvedge of the heel, on a level with the nee- 
dles, and pick on to the needles the 10 short loops of the selvedge made 
in knitting the heel. Draw down on the back part of fabric lightly 
with left hand, and turn crank to the right. Put up at left the 10 
needles drawn down, and one extra needle on front and back; then 
pick on to them the 10 short loops of selvedge. Attach weight-stand 
and one-pound weight to the set-up comb on front. Set hand 2 at 
''close,'" turn crank to left, and then set hand 2 the same as hand 1. 




B 




Fig. 106. Lock Plate A, Slide Plate B. 

Replace the one-pound weight on back. Knit five rounds, drawing 
down on back side of fabric with left hand. 

For the gore, narrow four needles, one at each of the four corners 
of the fabric, as follows: Narrow one at right and one at left, and 
knit three rounds. Then narrow one at right and one at left of the 
other two corners. (In narrowing on front, carry the stitch across to 
the end back needle; and in narrowing on back, carry the stitch across 
to the front end needle. It will be observed that the needles in the 



107 



182 



KNITTING 



two rows do not come exactly opposite each other at the ends. Always 
narrow the outside needle.) 

For the length of foot, knit forty-five rounds, then narrow off the 
toe by narrowing one needle at every half turn of the crank until only 
10 needles remain on each side. Knit two rounds and run off the 
work; ravel one round and with a worsted needle fasten the end stitches 
with the button-hole stitch, or over-and-over stitch. Pick the long 
stitches out of top of leg with the work-hook, beginning at the corner 

where the long yarn is; or cut the long 
stitches at the top and pick out the cut 
stitches. 

To Knit Larger Sizes, set up 33 or 36 
needles on each side; or to knit any de- 
sired size, reverse the order of the rule in 
the Table of Sizes given on Page 183, and 
knit ten rounds less in the foot. 

To Knit a Stocking Narrowed in the 

Back, proceed as follows: Push up all 

the needles in machine. Set up the work 

and knit one hundred and thirty rounds, 

then with crank at left hand, narrow two 

stitches at right, one on front and one on 

back side. Knit six rounds, and narrow in the same manner, and so 

continue to narrow until but 36 stitches are left on each side. Knit 

fifty rounds and take the work from the machine. 

Now pick the work into the nvichine in such a manner that the 
narrowing in back will be in line with the center of the back row of 
needles, and knit heel and foot in accordance with the rule given above. 
To Use the Narrowing Comb: Put the eyes of the comb into the 
hooks of needles and with the comb draw the needles up until the 
stitches pass back of the latches; then push down until the stitches 
cast on to the com!), and transfer them to the needles as desired. 

To Narroiv Off Toe With Narrowing Comb. Leave six stitches 
at one end and with comb 6 transfer the next six stitches one needle 
toward the center; then transfer the six stitches left at the end two 
needles toward the center, and draw down out of operation the two 
empty needles thus left. 




Fig. 107. Tension Take-up. 



198 



KNITTING 



183 



Repeat this process at the other three corners of the work, and 
knit five rounds. Leave five stitches at one end, and with the next 
size comb (5) transfer in the same manner as before, and knit four 
rounds. Leave four stitches at one end, and with the next size comb 
(4) transfer in same manner and knit three rounds. Leave three 
stitches at one end, and with the next size comb (3) transfer in the 
same manner and knit two rounds. Leave two stitches at one end, 
and with comb 3 transfer in the same manner and knit two rounds. 
Leave one stitch at one end, and with comb 3 transfer in the same 
manner and knit two rounds. Now transfer so as to bring two stitches 
on each needle. Knit two rounds and run off the work. 

Tables of Sizes 

MEN'S SOCKS 





u -^ 


M 


M 


X 


M 


X 




^ O 


■3 




Ti 


■O 


•d 


o 




a 


a 


^ .. 


fl 


a 


;a 


^ P-Oi 


3 


p 




Pl 




CO 


<D ^-S 


o 


o 


o3 


©■S 


o -^ 




fl^M 


'^^ 


t-i iiC 


^a 


'-S 




o 


o^f, 


^ 


— 


o^ 


O^ 


O-" 










. u 




. i^ 




C c3 


o o 


o o 


o o 


o 


o c 


t/3 


^^0. 


»•" 


1^*" 


^'" 


^■^ 


1?"" 


No. 5 


34 


30 


75 


30 


13 


45 


No. 6 


36 


30 


80 


30 


13 


.50 


No. 7 


36 


35 


85 


30 


13 


55 


No. 8 


38 


35 


90 


30 


13 


60 


No. 9 


39 


40 


95 


30 


13 


65 


LADIES' STOCKINGS 




73 a 


31 


m 


m 


tfi 


OT 




£o 


T3 


■a 


rS 


■3 


■o 




5" .1 





d^ 


id 


fl 


a 


X} 


i^^ 


O . 


2a.3 


o3 


3 

O'T! 


a 
o «^ 


(t-i 


a*^ tc 


^^ 




^S 


^S 







o '-' 


•o°-g 


o-^ 


■"2 

0*^ 


















6 O c3 


o o 


d o-is 


o c 


o 


O 


(n 


^-^ 


Z'^ 


^VH» 


'i^'" 


Z-" 


:?;"" 


No. 3 ..... . 


38 




110 


33 


13 


40 


No. 4 


40 





110 


34 


12 


45 


No. 5 


43 





120 


36 


14 


50 


No. 6 ...... 


44 





120 


36 


14 


55 


No. 7 


46 





130 


38 


15 


60 


No. 8 


48 





130 


38 


16 


65 


BOYS' AND MISSES' STOCKINGS 








■r. 






(C 


S o 


'C 


■a 


•d 


■a 




o 

a 

CO 




5 o so 
O „ d 


§. 
o^ 


a 
a 
ov! 


a 
a 
o ♦^ 




O 




•« P-.S 




0^ 


::8 








. u o 




. u 








o o g 


O OS 


o o 


o o 


o o 




n 


^^^ 


^««, 


^"" 


^^ 


%'" 


No. 12 .... 


38 
40 


85 
85 


30 

a5 


12 

12 


36 

38 


No. 13 




No. 1 ..... 




42 


85 


35 


12 


40 


No. 2 .. 




44 


90 


40 


12 


42 









199 



184 



KNITTING 



To Ravel the Work in the Machine. Ravel out the loops by 

pulling the loose yarn straight up over the ends of the needles. If 

holes appear or the yarn breaks the loops that 

run off, put on the needles, and ravel down the 

work to wliere it is perfect. 

To Remove a Needle from the Machine. Take 
off the caps V at either end of the needle bed that 
hold down the carriage U, and remove the car- 
riage. Wlien removing the rod be careful not to 
let the block slip off the rod and not to turn the 
rod end for end. The hollow side of the 
block is the front and the pin on top of the block 
fits into a hole in the lever that operates the yarn 
guide C. See that this is adjusted properly and 
operates freely before fastening the caps V. 

An arrow on each gib points the direction in 
which to move the gib in order to take it out. 
Push the gib out in the direction indicated by the 
arrow, until the end passes the needle to be re- 
moved; then draw the needle out and put in 
another. See that the new needle works freely 
after the gib is replaced. The caps should be re- 
placed, putting each in its own place. 
\Mien any of the latches fail to open, press down on the latch 
opener with the hand, and move the crank to operate the needles once 
or twice before setting up the work. AVlien the work rises up on the 




jf Ig. 108, 
l.)amb Needles. 




Z) 



Fig. 109. Combs and Work Hook. 




needles add more weight. Wlien the needles move up in knitting, if 
the loops fail to slip down back of the latch, knit looser. 

\Vlien the needles take the yarn and retain the loops without 
knitting push the needles up until the loops slip back of the latches, 
then drop the yarn into the hooks and draw the needles down, knitting 
off the old loops. After the loops are formed, if they fail to cast off 



200 



KNITTING 



185 



the ends of the needles, adjust the machine to knit looser. If the out- 
side needle drops stitches, or long loops are made at the corners, use 
more tension. If stitches drop, along in the center of the fabric, see 
if the yarn has caught and broken, and if the yarn guide runs in the 
right position, i. e., the same distance from each row of needles. If one 
particular needle drops stitches, bend upward the upper end of the 
needle. If the machine suddenly works hard, see if the yarn draws 
freely from the spool. 

If one row of needles ceases to operate while knitting or both 
rows operate when not desired, arrange the stops H properly. If a 
needle catches or hits in operating, making a snapping or clicking 




Fig. 110. Lamb Bench Bracket Power Machine. 

sound, see that all the needles are in place; either in working position 
or drawn clear down. If the needles are all right, see that the slide 
plates M, just below the latch openers, are adjusted to require consid- 
erable force to shift by hand. If they are allowed to work loose the 
A shaped cam falls in the way of the needles. If one is found loose, 
tighten the large screw that holds the spring washer to the A shaped 
cam, and see that the lock spring is in its place on the slide. If this 
does not remedy the difficulty, turn the crank to the extreme right 
and see whether the slide plates can be moved farther to the left 
after the stops have shifted them; turn the crank to the left and see 
if the slide plates can be moved to the right after being moved by the 



201 



186 KNITTING 



stops. If any one of the stops H, fail to shift the slide plate M as far 
as it will go, screw that stop closer to the needle bed or bend the point 
in a trifle. 

, If the latches of the needles become bent by accident or otherwise,, 
straighten them with the fingerSo 



202 



KNITTING. 

PART IV. 



HOSIERY KNITTING 

The class of machines now commonly employed for knitting 
stockings and socks is of the Circular Latch Needle type, though in at 
least one instance spring needles are employed in a Circular Machine. 
In other instances spring needles are used in the Straight Rotary 
Machines for making full fashioned hosiery on what is known as 
"Cotton's System." This method will be explained in a subsequent 
chapter. As the Circular Latch Needle Machines are generally used 
in the United States, this type will be explained first. 

CIRCULAR LATCH NEEDLE KNITTING MACHINES 

There are several styles and classes of Circular Latch Needle 
frames which may be classed as follows: Hand Machines, Semi- 
Automatics, Three-Fourths Automatics, Seven-Fyighths Automatics, 
Fifteen- Sixteenths Automatics, and Full Automatics. The progressive 
order impresses one with the splendid mental resources and superior 
mechanical ability of the builders of Circular Latch Needle Stocking 
Machines. 

In knitting stockings a number of difficult propositions present 
themselves, of which the most important is the operation of shaping 
the stocking to the leg and foot of the wearer. xA.nother difficult opera- 
tion consists of splicing those portions of the stocking which are sub- 
jected to the most wear; while the ornamentation of the article, either 
by the use of a plurality of threads of different colors to produce ver- 
tical or horizontal stripes or figures, or by a variation in the character 
of the stitch to produce what is technically known as lace or open work, 
represents a third difficult operation. To produce these various 
effects automatically, devices have been perfected to accomplish the 
following purposes : 

(1). Change the length of the stitches. 



305 



188 KNIITING 



(2). Stop the machine or change its motion from rotary to re- 
ciprocating, without stopping. 

(3). Put up out of action about one-half the needles. 

(4) Put up out of action one needle of those remaining in action 
at each course knit. 

(5) Restore these needles successively to actioii. 
(6). Restore the instep needles to action. 

(7). Change the motion from reciprocating to rotary again. 

These changes are accomplished in various automatic ways by 
the several different builders, but all depend upon a pattern chain or 
wheel, which measures the length of fabric knit, and at predetermined 
perioQis, shifts the motion-changing and needle-cam devices to effect 
the required result. 

In the simple Hand Machines these various operations are ef- 
fected by the operator manipulating the levers etc., as required to 
accomplish the desired result. One by one, almost, each operation 
has been made to accomplish the result automatically, until now we 
have the Full Automatic. 

Full Automatics may run continuously on women's goods, passing 
from stocking to stocking without assistance from the operator. In 
making half-hose or socks the machines are automatic to a like degree, 
except that they must be stopped at the end of each article, so that 
another cylinder may be introduced with the rib-top on the needles; 
or a transferring device may be used for putting the rib top or hose leg 
on the needles, which in the latter case does not necessitate removing 
the cylinder from the machine. 

Originally, machine-made seamless hosiery was made on hand 
machines wherein each needle for the formation of the heel and toe had 
to be manipulated by hand, and all other changes effected by the 
crudest means. 

As the Hand ^Machine is the simplest form of machine knitting, 
more easily understood and plainly presenting operations, performed 
by hand, that the Automatics perform by mechanism, it may be well 
to take it up first, for it treats the fundamental principles simply and 
clearly. The results obtained on the several classes of Circular 
I^atch Needle frames are practically the same, but the mechanical ar- 
rangements have grown more complex as devices have been perfected 
for performing automatically the various operations of shaping hosiery. 



206 



KNITTING 



189 



HAND MACHINES 

The stitch in plain machine knitting is exactly the same as made 
in plain hand knitting, thongh more perfect and even. The nnmber 
of stitches required to be put on the needles, in setting up the work, 
depends upon the size of the yarn and the size of the sock or stocking 
desired. A large size stocking requires more stitches than a small one, 



YARN GUIDE 



KNITTINO WAVE 




STITCH CAMS 

DEVELOPMENT OF NEEDLE-CAMS 



Fig. 111. Sectional View of Typical "Full Automatic'" Circular Latch 
Needle Fashiouiug Machine. 

and fine yarn requires more stitches and finer needles than are required 
by coarse yarn. It is for this reason that needle cylinders are re- 
quired to contain a difi^erent number of slots, or places for needles, to 
suit different sizes or grades of yarn, and is also the reason why they 
are required to be made of different diameters to make the various 
sizes of hosiery. The number of slots may be different in cylinders of 
the same size, according to the requirements of the work. 



807 



190 



KNITTING 



There are three conditions that will change the size of the hose; 

first, the nnmber of needles in the cylinder; second, the length of the 

stitch; and ihird, the size of the yarn. 

Fine yarn knit on a cylinder containing 60 needles will produce a 

small size stocking, but if knit on a cylinder containing 100 needles will 

make full size hose. The tighter the stitch the smaller the tube, or 

web, in diameter; the looser the 
stitch the larger the tube. The 
coarser the yarn used the larger 
will be the tube produced with a 
given number of needles, and the 
finer the yarn the smaller the 
web or tube produced. For ex- 
ample, the coarse cylinder will 
make a child's stocking with a 
Seamed work is always smaller 




Fig. 113. Transfer Cup. 

fine yarn knit with a short stitch. 



in diameter than where the full number of needles in the cylinder are 
employed. With every other needle out a very small tube can be knit. 

Operation. These machines are operated entirely by hand during 
the circular and also during the reciprocating movement required to 
make the heel and toe, the needle being raised and lowered by hand, 
by means of a working-hook (A in Fig. 114). The work is held down 
by means of weights. 

In starting the work, the knitting is commenced at the top of the 
stocking and set up with a selvedge, the same as if knit by hand. For 
half-hose, or socks, the top may be ribbed or seamed as far as required 
by removing every second, third, or fourth needle, and then changed to 
plain knitting by replacing the needles removed for that purpose. 
Narrowing, for shaping the leg of a stocking, may be done with the 
stitch regulator without stopping the machine. The heel is knit at 
the proper place by knitting backward and forward, and may be made 
double thickness if desired. Knitting the foot is then continued and 
the toe finished on the machine, except joining a few stitches at the 
toe, which is done by hand with a finished needle after the stocking is 
taken from the machine. The machine is usually fastened to the 
table or bench by means of thumb screws. 

Fig. 115 is an illustration of the Branson Hand-Knitting Machine. 
The parts are designated in this illustration as follows : A is the cam 



806 



KNITTING 



191 



cylinder; B, needle cylinder; C, yarn guide; D, yarn carrier; G, stitch 
regulating lever; and H, take-up spring. 

The Yarn Guide, C, guides the yarn from the bobbin to the yarn 
carrier D. The three arms on the back part of the machine are used 
when knitting different colors of yarn, or when knitting double or 
triple threads. 

The Take-Up Spring, H, is 
used only when knitting flat web, 
the heel and toe, or any tubular 
w^ork where some of the needles 
are taken out, and where a close 
stitch is required. The spring is 
adjustable at the point where it is 
attached to the yarn guide and 
may be raised or lowered as more 
or less tension is required for knit- 
ting light or heavy yarns. In 
knitting the heel or toe it should 
draw the yarn close around the 
lifted needles. When in use it is 
to be hooked under the yarn be- 
tween the tension ring and the slot 
in the end of the guide. 

The Yarn Carrier, D, carries 
the yarn to the needles. It is 
fastened to the cam cylinder with 
screws, and must be removed be- 
fore changing cylinders. When 
returned to place it should be 

pressed down on the screws as far as possible. When threading 
the yarn carrier, always pass the yarn through both holes, from the 
outside to the inside. 

The Cams M and O (Fig. 116) are stationary, and act simply as 
guides to guide the needles to the stitch cams N and L. The stitch 
cams perform the entire operation of knitting backwards and forwards ^ 
they swing loosely on pins provided for that purpose at their upper ends 
and swing back, as shown by L, when the needles pass under them to 
form the stitch. They are in position, as shown by N, when the need- 




Fig. 113. Type of Hand Machine. 



209 



192 



KNITTING 




Fig. 114. 

Work Hook 
and Heel Hook. 



les pass over them to free the latches. The machine is turned until the 
needles are all passed out from under the cam in either direction when 
the cams drop automatically, bridging the opening, and causing the 
needles to pass up over the cam on that side and down under the cam 
on the opposite side, thus forming stitches. If by any means the cams 
get in a position so that the needles pass down under both 
of them and the needles are not lifted up to free the 
latches, by lifting up several of the needles above the 
cams and turning the machine past these lifted needles, 
the cam will drop down and the needles pass up over it. 
Then push down the lifted needles. 

To Regulate the Stitch. Draw the stitch regu- 
lator, G, to the front of the machine to lengthen the 
stitch, and push it toward the back of the machine to 
shorten the stitch. In ordinary knitting the stitches 
should be long enough to easily draw down to the needle 
cylinder, for tight or close knitting makes the web hard 
and inelastic. When the stitch is too short it will not 
pass down over the latch of the needle freely unless considerable 
weight is applied. When the needles do not knit but the yarn lies in 
front of them, not knit in, the difficulty usually is in having the stitch 
too short. 

The weights hold the stitches down so that the needles may pass 
up through them as they are raised up just behind the yarn carrier. 
Before any knitting is done, the needles must be raised up high enough 
to allow the stitches to get below the iatch of the needles. The weight 
does not affect the length of the slitch, but only holds it down. If the 
stitch is of the right length, and the proper amount of weight is used 
there will be no difficulty with the needles, as they are self-acting. 

Needle Cylinders are made to contain different numbers of slots 
for needles to suit different sizes and kinds of yarn, and to make differ- 
ent sizes of hosiery, as in the instance cited where fine yarn knit on a 
cylinder containing 60 needles will make small hose ; but knit on an 84 
or 100 needle cylinder, will make full sizes. 

Fig. 1 1 8 represents needle cylinders, without needles, for each of 
the four different size heads used in this machine. The number of 
slots and needles a cylinder contains represents the number of stitches 
that will be made each round, while knitting with that cylinder in the 



910 



KNITTING 



198 



machine. The number of slots in a cylinder does not necessarily in- 
crease or diminish the size of that cylinder, but only places the needles 
nearer together or farther apart, as fine or coarse work is desired. 
Cylinders are commonly cut for any number of needles desired up to 
176 slots, and sometimes finer, with inserted sheet steel walls. 

Cylinders are changed by removing the yarn carrier D, and either 




Fig. 115. Branson Hand Machine. 

lifting up enough needles to allow the cams to pass under and be free 
of needles, or removing them and lifting the cylinders out of the cam 
cylinders. In putting another cylinder in place, put the slot, in the 
under edge of the cylinder, on the stud in the back of the bed plate, 
and then secure the yarn carrier in its proper place. 

A combination is effected in these machines in such manner that 



211 



194 



KNITTING 



the bed (Fig. 110) or running gear of the machine accommodates the 
different size heads and their cyUnders, the gear rim of the head being 
always the same size, the difference being in the size of the cup of the 
head for hokhng the needle cylinders. This is shown very clearly in 
Fig. 120. 




Fig. 116. Cam Cylinder Showing Cam.s. 

Needles. There are three sizes of needles in general use in these 
machines, called 12 gauge, IS gauge, and 24 gauge. They are used in 
knitting different grades of yarn so as to form large or small stitches. 
For coarse yarn such as is generally knit on the 60 and 70 needle cylin- 
ders, the 12 gauge needle is used. For finer yarns the 18 gauge needle 
in the 84 cylinder, and the 24 gauge in the 100 needle cylinder are used. 
The 18 and 24 gauge needles are also used in knitting cotton; the 18 
gauge in the 84 needle cylinder, and the 24 gauge in the 100 needle 
cylinder. 

The regular standard of gauges adopted by the builders of this 

machine is as follows: 

12 gauge needles for cylinders having four to six needles to the inch 

18 " " " " " six to eight " " " " 

24 " " " " " eight to twelve " " " " 

3G " " " " " twelve to fifteen " " " " 

42 " " " " " finer than fifteen " " " " 

Sizes of Yarns Used in Different Cylinders. 

A 50 needle cylinder will make a 5 inch child's stocking. Use 64 



212 



KNITTING 



195 



needle cylinder for 6 inch stocking, 72 needle cylinder for 7 inch stock- 
ing and 80 needle cylinder for 8 inch stocking. 

Two-ply 18 or two-ply 20 cnt woolen yarn makes a good hose for 
children. 

Two-ply No. 7 or three-ply No. 10 cotton yarn makes the same 
size on cylinders as stated above. 




Fiir. 117. Cams. 



In making donble heels and toes use a single thread of No. 10 or 
12 cotton, or a single No. 18 or 20 worsted. 

The leno^th of the les of ladies' or children's hose should be about 
three times the length of the foot. 

To Change Heads. After removing the head from the machine 
put in the desired head, with the yarn carrier at the back of the ma- 
chine directly opposite the yarn guide post, and with the crank hanging 
straight down with the handle at the lowest point. This will bring 
the handle in the easiest position for knitting the heel and toe with the 
backward and forward motion. 

Setting=Up the Work. Turn the machine until the yarn carrier 
is directly in front of the machine. Have all the needles lying down all 
around the machine. Expand the set-up (See Fig. 121) so that the 
hooks rest against the inside of the needle cylinder as illustrated in Fig. 
122. They should be held a little below the upper edge of the cylin- 
der. Place the yarn in the yarn guide correctly and draw through the 
carrier; drawing through about a yard (enough to set up the first round, 
or course of stitches). Take the yarn between the thumb and finger 
close to the yarn carrier and put it under one of the hooks of the set-up, 



813 



196 



KNITTING 



then bring it up and around one of the needles in the machine close to 
the yarn carrier. (See Fig. 122). Always bring the yarn around the 
needle from the right to the left, and then down under the next hook 
of the set-up, and so on around each. This is continued on each needle 
until the needles down in the cams are reached, then hook the weights 
into the ring in the wire underneath the set-up and turn the machine 




Fig. 118. Needle Cylindei's. 

slowly to the right until the remaining needles are brought up into full 
view. Continue to set up these needles as before, running over two or 
three of those that were first set up to fasten in the end of the yarn. 
Break off any yarn remaining in the fingers and the setting-up is com- 
pleted. Note that bringing the yarn around the needle from the right 
to the left always forms a crossing of the yarn on the inside of the needle 
between it and the hook of the set-up, as shown in Fig. 123. If there 
are more needles in the machine than hooks in the set-up, catch under 
the same hook twice. 

To Knit Rib Tops Without Removing the Needles. Before setting 
up the work lift up every fourth needle and tip it over at right angles 
with the cylinder, as shown in Fig. 124. The yarn carrier arm passes 
over these needles without operating them. Set up the work as pre- 
viously instructed and knit the length of top desired. Then tip up 
and push down into the cylinder those needles that are away from the 
cams and yarn carrier, after which turn the machine forward and tip 
up and push down into the cylinder the rest of the needles. Then pro- 
ceed with the knitting. 



214 



KNITTING 



197 



To Knit the Heel. On these machines there are marks on the 
upper edge of the needle cylinder dividing the cylinder exactly in 
halves, and the front is sub-divided into three equal parts, to serve as 
guides in knitting the heel and toe. Turn the yarn carrier to the front 
of the machine. Lift up, with the hook or fingers, all the needles in the 
back half of the cylinder as high as they will come, or up against the 
wire ring in the needle cylinder. Before turning the crank to revolve 
the machine, place the take-up spring under the yarn to bring it into 
action. 




Fig. 119. Bed Plate. 

Turn the machine until the needles in operation have all formed 
loops, then lift up one needle next to the yarn carrier and next to the 
needles already lifted up, as shown in Fig. 125. Turn the machine 
backward until the stitches are again formed on the opposite side, and 
again lift up one needle next to the yarn carrier and next to the needles 
already lifted up. Turn the machine forward again until stitches are 
formed on the side of the beginning, and then lift up a needle as before. 
Continue, in a like manner, to knit backward and forward, each time 
lifting a needle, until all the needles are lifted up next to the yarn car- 
rier and next to the mark. Before moving the machine push down 
the first needle next to the mark on the opposite side and away from the 
yarn carrier. 

During this operation of lifting up the needles, the weights at- 



215 



198 



KNITTING 



tached to the set-up are drawing down the work at the back of the 
machine, and not on the part then being knit. This hitter part of the 
work must be held down with the left hand as shown in Fig. 125. 
Draw down on it so that the stitches will be kept down on the edge of 
the cylinder and properly knit in. 

After ithe needles have all been lifted up to the marks and one has 





Fig. 130. Showing Arrangement for Holding Cylinders. 

been pushed down on the opposite side from the carrier, push the heel 
hook up between the web and the cylinder and hook it into the web 
direcdy under the needles that are not lifted up, and about half an inch 
from the upper edge of the needle cylinder. Take the weights from 



M6 



KNITTING 



190 



the set-up and hook into the ring in the lower end of the heel hook. 

Now push down a needle on the opposite side and away from the yarn 

carrier; knit across, and then push down another needle (always on the 

side away from the yarn-carrier). Knit across and continue to push 

down needles in a like manner until all 

are down to the marks where the start 

was made, except one on each side, 

these being the first ones raised up; 

turn the machines until the yarn carrier 

is directly in front, and push down all 

the lifted needles. Be sure that all the 

latches are down at the back of the 

machine, otherwise stitches will be 

dropped. Then proceed to knit the 

foot. 

To Knit the Foot. With the left 
hand, catch hold of the leg of the stock- 
ins; at the back of the machine and hold 
down on it, as the weight in the heel 
hooks are drawing only on the web in 
the front part of the machine. As all 
the needles are in use to knit the foot, 
as in knitting the leg, and as it is simply Fig. 121. set-up. 

plain circular knitting, it is merely a 

matter of turning the crank in the right direction to make the cams ac- 
tuate the needles, until the place is arrived at where the toe should be. 
Then proceed to knit the toe. 

To Knit the Toe. The toe is knit, in every particular, like the 
heel. When completed, knit two rounds with the needles all down, 
break off the yarn and run the work out of the machine, holding the 
weights up so that they may not draw down too hard while running 
out. 

To Knit a Mitten. Take out every fourth needle as in knitting 
rib top; set and knit the length required for wrist; put in the needles 
taken out, and lift the stitches over these needles to close the opening 
that is left if they are allowed to set their o^vn stitches. Knit fourteen 
rounds of plain knitting, then lift up the needles as in knitting the heel 
of a stocking, leaving twenty-four down in operation. On these 




217 



200 



KNITTING 



needles knit the thumb. Knit back and forth forty-five times; close 
off the end of the thumb by lifting up six needles on each side; then 
proceed as in knitting a heel. Push down all the twenty-four needles 
and run the thumb out, leaving the yarn carrier on the left. Now 
take the selvedge stitches on each side of the thumb thus knit, begin- 
ning close at the bottom, and put them over the empty needles, twelve 
from each selvedge ; put the yarn in the yarn carrier, push all the nee- 




Fig, 123. Setting Up Work. 

dies down, and knit round and round for the hand forty or fifty rounds. 
Close off as in the toe of the stockino-. While knitting; the thumb hold 
down the strip with the left hand or heel hook (B in Fig. 114). 

To Close a Selvedge. Take up the short stitch with a darning 
needle on each edge on the wrong side of the fabric, and sew over as in 
over-seaming. Every other stitch on the selvedge is a short stitch and 
is referred to as the selvedge stitch. 

iVlending Broken Stitches. Take one of the needles of the ma- 



218 



KNITTING 



201 




Fig. 123. 
Crossing of Yarn. 



chine and hook it in the dropped stitch, either when the work is in the 
machine or after taking it out, and push it far enough through to bring 
the stitch below the latch. Continue to draw the needle back until a 
new stitch is formed, .and continue in the same way until all the drop- 
ped stitches are knit in. If the mending is 
done out of the machine, tie the dropped stitch 
with a short piece of yarn and draw the ends 
inside of the web. 

To Take Out Needles. I^ift them as high as 
they will raise up and then turn the tops out- 
ward and downward until they come out from 
under the wire ring in the needle cylinder. To 
put them in, press the end of the hub of the 
neetlle down behind the wire ring until it is fully 
down behind it, turn the needle up to the cyl- 
inder and push it down as far as it will go. 
Several needles can be taken out at one time as easily as one. 

When the needles are raised up out of the cam cylinder against 
the wire ring in the cylinder, the hub of the needle projects above the 
cams and are not operated by them. 

If the latch of a needle becomes bent, by accident or otherwise, 
straighten it with the fingers. See that all the latches work freely for 
if any do not they must be loosened or the needles will have to be re- 
placed by new ones. 

Do not attempt to reverse the machine while it is knitting, unless 
enough needles have been lifted up to allow the cams to pass under. 
The machine knits as well one way as the other, but it is awkward to 
turn it backwards. 

Fig. 127 shows the manner of closing the toe with the "knitting 
stitch" which leaves no seam, and if done with the same yarn, cannot 
be distinguished from the other knitting. 

The take-up spring should be adjusted to take up all the yarn 
drawn through the yarn carrier after leaving the operating needles. 
Too much tension will draw the stitches too tight ai the selvedge, and 
too little tension will cause stitches to be dropped at the selvedge. 

In knitting tight work put on plenty of weight or hold down hard 
with the left hand. Be sure that the yarn comes from the bobbin 
freely and without hindrance of any kind whatever. Much trouble 



210 



202 



KNITTING 



and poor work arise from poorly wound bobbins, and the yarn not 
coming off freely. 

Table of Sizes of Yarn Used in Branson Machines 



Needles 


Wool Cuts 


Cotton No. 


Worsted No. 


No. of Needles in 


to Inch 


Ply Cut 


Ply No. 


Ply No. 


3)i" Machines 


4 


2-12 


2- 4 


2- 6 


48 


H 


2-14 


2- 5 


2- 7 


52 & 56 


5 


2-14 


2- 5 


2- 7 


60 


H 


2-18 


2- 6 


2- 9 


64 


6 


2-20 


2- 7 


2-10 


68 & 72 


6* 


2-20 


2- 7 


2-10 


76 


l" 


2-22 


2- 8 


2-11 


80 & 84 


H 


2-25 


2- 9 


• 2-13 


88 


8 


2-25 


2- 9 


2-13 


92 & 96 


8h 


2-28 


2-10 


2-15 


100 


9 


2-82 


2 11 


2-17 


104 & 108 


9| 


2-38 


2-14 


2-19 


112 


10 


2-38 


2-14 


2-19 


116 & 112 


lOJ 


2-45 


2-16 


2-24 


124 


11 


2-50 


2-18 


2-27 


128 & 132 


11* 


2-56 


2-20 


2-30 


136 


12 


2-56 


2-20 


2-30 


140 & 144 


12i 


2-62 


2 22 


2-33 


148 


13 


2-80 


2-28 


2-42 


152 & 156 


131 


2-96 


2-34 


2-50 


160 



AUTOMATIC MACHINES 

The following preliminary description of the operation of knitting 
a sock on an automatic machine, gives a general idea of making a 
stocking, reference being had to the diagrammatic view. Fig. 130, in 
which the circular series of small dots represent the needles of the 
machine. 

The needles may be said to be divided into sets, one set, npmely, 
those inclosed with the bracket a, extending, say, one-half way around 
the machine; two sets h h, each extending about one-sixth or more of 
the distance around the machine on opposite sides of the same, and 
adjoining the ends of the set a; and finally a set d, extending between 
the sets h. 

Supposing that the knitting of the sock or stocking is begun at the 
top of the leg, a thread is fed to all the needles and the machine is 
rotated so as to produce, by round-and-round knitting, continuous 



220 



KNITTING 



2ijiS 



circular courses of stitches until the desired length of tubular fabric 
for the leg has been formed, and it is necessary to form the heel. 

In knitting a sock, the stitches of a short length of ribbed tubular 
fabric may be applied to the needles of the machine before commencing 
to knit the leg of the sock, so that when the sock is completed the leg 




Fig. 12-t. Needles Tipped Down. 

will have a ribbed top. In knitting long stockings where the ribbed 
top is not required, the needles may have greater draft while knitting 
the upper or calf part of the leg than while knitting the lower or ankle 
part, so as to shape the leg by drawing longer stitches and making a 
tube of greater diameter. After the proper length of tubular fabric 
has been produced the needles of the set a are, while still retaining 
their stitches, raised out of action. That is to say, they are raised so 



221 



204 



KNITTING 



that their butts will be above and free from the influence of the knitting 
cams, these cams being the ones which effect the vertical reciprocation 
of the needles at the proper time to cause them to catch the thread and 
draw the stitches. This leaves only the needles b and d in action. 
The motion of the machine is then changed from rotary to recipro- 




Fig. 125. Lifting Needles. 

eating, and at the same time the extra or thickening thread is intro- 
duced, the double thread being carried back and forth around that 
part of the needle cylinder having the needles b and d, to form stitches 
upon these needles by to-and-fro knitting. The needles b are those 
upon which the fashioning of the toe and heel is effected and are termed 
"fashionin(/-7iecdles. 

At the end of each reciprocating motion a needle, of one of the 
sets b at the end of the set adjacent to the needles a, is thrown out of 



929 



KNITTING 



205 



action— that is to say, it is so raised that its butt is free from the in- 
fluence of the knitting-cams— but retains its stitch. The end needle, 
tirst of one fashioning set h and then of the opposite fashioning set b, 
is thus thrown out of action so that with each reciprocating movement 
the flat web produced is narrowed to the extent of one needle, first at 
one edge and then at the opposite edge. This narrowing operation is 
continued until all the needles of the fashioning sets b b have been 
thrown out of action. 





Fig. 126. Product of Branson Hand Machine. 

Sometimes it is advisable to produce a series, of, say, two or more 
courses of stitches extending completely around the cylinder, to give 
greater depth or fullness to the center of the heel and prevent the 
stocking from binding at the instep. In this case all the needles a and 
b are temporarily lowered, so that their butts are again brought under 
the influence of the knitting-cams, and the motion of the machine is 
changed from reciprocating to rotary until the desired number of cir- 
cular courses have been produced; the stitches carried by the. needles 
a and b joining those of the first of the circular co arses. It is also 
advisable to remove the thickening-thread during the formation of 
that part of each circular course which extends over the instep portion 
of the stocking. 

As soon as the circular courses have been completed all the nee- 



2»3 



206 



KNITTING 



dies a and b are again raised out of action and the reciprocating motion 
of the machine is resumed. As soon as this has been done, needle 
after needle, first a needle of one fashioning set b and then a needle 
of the other set b, is brought into action by 
lowering the same so as to bring its butt under 
the control of the knitting-cams, the needles 
being brought into action in the reverse order 
from that in which they were thrown out of 
action. This operation results in the produc- 
tion of a gradually widened flat wel), and in 
the uniting of this widened web to the last of 

the circular instep courses, owing to the fact that each of the fash- 
ioning needles b, retaining its stitches as it is thrown out of action 
after the formation of the circular courses, casts this stitch and catches 




Fig. 137. 
Method of Closing Toe. 




Pig. 128. Hand Machine with Power Attached. 

a new loop formed upon the needles in effecting the production of the 
widened web. When all of the fashioning needles have been thus 
brought into action the thickening-thread is removed, the needles a 



224 



KNITTING 



207 



w ^ -no- their butts under the control of the knitting cams, 



rotary. 

This effect of the 



fashioning operation just described has been to 




Fig. 139. Branson Full Automatic 
Machine. 






225 



208 



KNITTING 




widened web. After the heel has been completed the tubular web is 
resumed and continued until the same is of the length desired for the 
foot of the stocking, whereupon the operations resorted to in order to 
form the heel are repeated for the toe of the stocking. 

The circular courses may be omitted from the instep and center 
of the heelj the narrowed web /, in this case, being united directly to the 

widened web h, or in other cases a 
series of courses extending around 
the entire heel, but not over the in- 
step, may be formed after the nar- 
rowing operation and before the 
widening operation. In this case 
only the needles b are thrown into 
action after narrowing and they are 
again thrown out of action after the 
desired courses for the center of the 
heel have been produced. 

After the completion of the toe 
a few tubular courses are knitted 
and if the socks or stockings are 
being produced singly, the stitches 
may then cast off the needles of the machine to free the web there- 
from, preparatory to starting a new stocking or applying a new ribbed 
top. If the machine is intended to operate continuously, and produce 
stocking after stocking in succession, the production of tubular web 
may, after the formation of each toe, be continued to form the leg of 
the next stocking, and so on, the web being afterward severed near 
each toe, so that each stocking blank will represent the appearance 
shown in Fig. 131 ; the toe being completed by uniting the edges i i in 
the usual manner. 

FULL AUTOMATIC KNITTERS. ACME TYPE 
A circular knitting machine of the Acme type. Fig. 132, comprises 
a stationary needle cylinder, an encircling rotating cam cylinder, and 
latch needles with butts or lateral projections in their shanks. The 
needle cylinder has a series of longitudinal, parallel grooves on its 
outer surface, and the cam cylinder is provided with suitable cam'] or 
inclines on its inner surface. The needles lie in the grooves of the 
needle cylinder, with their butts projecting outward. As the cam 



Fig. 130. 
Diagrammatic View of Needles. 



236 



KNITTING 



209 




cylinder revolves, the butts come in contact with and slide up and down 
the inclines or cams, and so cause the requisite up-and-down move- 
ment of the needles in the operation of knitting. 

Operation. The needle is lowered to knit, by what is called the 
stitch cam, which has a diagonally inclined 
edge, and thus moves the needle down as 
the cam cylinder revolves. The cam cyl- 
inder also carries a yarn guide through which 
the thread is laid in the hook of the needle 
just before the needle is moved down by the 
stitch cam. As the needle moves downward, 
the latch is pulled up by the loop on the 
shank of the needle so as to close the hook 
of the needle, thus safely drawing down a 
new loop through the old one. When the 
needle rises again, the yarn in its hook pulls Fiffi^i- stocking as it comes 

, , , , . , from Machine. 

open the latch and turns it down upon the 

shank of tiie needle until the yarn has passed entirely below the latch, 
forming a loop around the shank through which, in turn, another 
loop is pulled down. Thus each needle pulls a series of loops, one 
through the other, forming a knitted fabric. 

When the needle descends with a new loop the old loop is cast off 
over the closed hooked end of the needle, and forms a part of the tubu- 
lar fabric which hangs down within the needle cylinder. 

In knitting the tubular portions of a stocking, all the needles are 
in operation, and knit one course at each revolution of the cam cylin- 
der. In knitting the heel or toe of a stocking, only a portion of the 
needles are in operation, and the cam cylinder is reciprocated, or 
moved first in one direction and then in the opposite direction. The 
heeland toe are in the form of a pouch or pocket, and they are knit by 
what is known as the narrowing and widening operation. 

In this operation about one-half the number of needles are first 
raised to a higher level, or into an idle position, so that their butts will 
not be operated upon by the stitch cams. The other needles remain 
in an active position where their butts may be operated upon by the 
stitch cams. In the operation of narrowing, which then takes place, 
one of the active needles is shifted to a higher level, or to the idle series, 
at each reciprocation of the cam cylinder, by raising or elevating the 



««7 



210 KNITTING 



butt of the needle. When the narrowing is completed, the widening 
takes place by exactly the reverse operation ; one of the idle needles is 
shifted to a lower level, or to the active series, at each reciprocation of 
the cam cylinder, by lowering or depressing the butt of the needle. 

Sinkers. To operate this type of circular machines there are 
required devices known as jacks, sinkers, or web holders. These are 
thin blades of metal, one of which is placed between each two adjacent 
needle shanks. Each sinker has a longitudinal movement, inwardly 
and outwardly toward and from the center of the needle cylinder, in 
suitable guides near the upper edge of said cylinder; its movement 
being regulated by a cam which accompanies the movement of the 
cam cylinder. Each jack has a finger which, when the jack is ad- 
vanced, overlies the last course of yarn which forms the upper edge 
of the fabric, and so holds the loops on the needle shanks from rising, 
as they otherwise w'ould do, when the needles adjacent to the jack are 
pushed upward through the loops last formed by them, in order 
to receive the yarn for the loop of the next course. The bot- 
tom of the notch or recess formed by the overhanging finger bears 
against the edge of the fabric, and thus the jacks on either side of 
a given needle, when advanced, tend to pull the yarn tight around the 
shank of the needle. After the needle has risen and received the yarn, 
the jacks adjacent to it are moved outward a short distance so that the 
fingers will be out of the way of the yarn drawn down by the descending 
needle, which thus forms the new edge of the fabric. The jacks are 
again advanced, previous to the next rise of the needles, to hold down 
the edge of the fabric just formed. 

Thus the primary elements of the circular knitting machine, are 
the latch rieedles, grooved needle cylinder, cam cylinder, stitch cams, and 
sinkers, and they alone would be necessary for knitting a plain tubular 
fabric by what is called circular knitting, in which all the needles are 
kept in continuous operation. 

In knitting a stocking, however, which is the principal purpose 
for which these machines are employed, we find a further problem. 
In knitting the heel or toe, about one-half of the needles are lifted so 
that their butts are above the level of the stitch cams, and these needles 
thus remain idle; no longer being pulled down to knit. These are 
often spoken of as the long heeled needles, because their butts are 
longer than those of the other needles, so that they may be engaged by 



299 



KNITTING 



211 



a cam and lifted out of the row of operative needles On the remain- 
ing needles a progressively narrowing strip of fabric is knitted, and 
then a progressively widening strip is knitted, until a pouch is com- 




Fig. 133. Acme Full Automatic Machine. 

pleted which forms the heel. After the heel is completed the long 
needles are thrown back into action and circular knitting is resumed 
for the foot of the stocking. 

Narrowing. The cam cylinder, when knitting the heel or toe of 
the stocking, is not rotated, but reciprocates first in one direction and 



212 KNITTING 



then in the other, and with each reciprocation of the cam cylinder the 
needle at the forward end of the row of active needles (/. e., the one 
which would be first encountered l)y the stitch cam and be lowered so 
as to knit) is lifted up into the plane of inactive needles. Thus the 
fabric knit by the needles grows narrower by one loop with each re- 
cipiocation of the cam cylinder, and this is accordingly called the 
"narrowing" operation. 

Widening. After the narrowest portion of the fabric has been 
arrived at, only a small number of needles being left still in operation, 
the "widening" operation begins. This operation consists in first 
throwing one needle out of operation and then throwing two needles 
into operation on each reciprocation of the cam cylinder. This is con- 
tinued until all the. needles removed in the narrowing process have 
been brought back and the pouch has been knitted. Then the long 
heeled needles are all brought down simultaneously into active posi- 
tion, and circular knitting is resumed. This is called the two-and-one 
method. 

The two-and-one method has lieen adopted in the widening proc- 
ess for the following reasons: In the one-and-one method the last 
needle to knit in the widening operation, as the cam cylinder moves in 
one direction, is the first needle to knit on the next course on the re- 
turn reciprocation of the cam cylinder in the opposite direction. This 
needle, therefore, draws two loops, with the result that a series of small 
holes is left along the line or seam where the narrowed and widened 
portions are joined in the heel or toe pocket. This disadvantage is 
overcome by the two-and-one method, by which the last needle to knit 
in a given course is thrown out of operation on the return reciprocation 
of the cam cylinder, and therefore it is not the first to knit on the next 
course. .To express the effect in another form, in knitting each course 
one needle knits beyond the needle Avhich is the first to knit in the next 
returning course. 

In the earlier machines of the Acme type, all the rotary knitting 
of the body of the stocking was automatic, while the reciprocating 
knitting of the heel and toe was done by hand. When the rotary 
knitting was partially or wholly completed, or when the heel or toe 
were to be knit, the machine was stopped, and about one-half the 
needles shifted to an idle position. In the narrowing and widening 
operation which followed, the individual needles were raised by a pick 



2'40 



KNITTING 213 



or hook in the hand of the operator, and depressed by the finger of the 
operator. As the result of this use of a pick to shift the needles, the 
term "picker ' has come to designate the means by which the needles 
are shifted in an automatic machine, and the machine itself is called 
the "picker machine." 

The pickers, which raise the needles are known as elevating or 
hfting pickers, or lifters, and the pickers which depress the needles are 
known as the depressing pickers, or droppers. Two lifting pickers are 
used in automatic reciprocating knitting, one operating when the cam 
cylinder moves in the opposite direction and the same, of course, is 
true of the depressing pickers because there must be two stitch-cam 
arrangements on the cylinder in reciprocating knitting, one operating 
when the cylinder is moved in the opposite direction. 

In order to automatically shift the needles in narrowing and 
widening, pickers are mounted on the cam cylinder, each of which in 
turn, as that cylinder is reciprocated, comes in contact with the butt of 
the needle or needles to be shifted, and is so organized that it thereupon 
automatically shifts the needles while the needle moves the picker. 

There are four of these pickers upon the cam cylinder, namely, a 
pair of "lifters" for raising the needles from operative to inoperative 
position, one operating on the reciprocation of the cam cylinder in one 
direction, and another on tho reverse reciprocation, and lastly a pair of 
"droppers" for similarly lowering the needles from inoperative to 
operative position. 

These (lifting) pickers are provided, at their ends, with recesses or 
notches for receiving the needle butts, the notches being so formed 
that there is a lip or finger underlying the needle butt when it is in 
engagement with the notched end of the picker. The pickers are 
mounted upon the cam cylinder so that they move in an inclined or 
diagonal direction, and when a needle butt engages the notch of the 
picker, that picker is moved backward and upward, with relation to 
the cam cylinder, and the lip of the picker engages the underside of the 
needle butt, carrying the needle upward out of the active series, the 
needle butt being transformed from the notch of the picker to an in- 
clined guide or cam which completes its movement, from the active or 
working series, to the idle series. 

The devices for transferring the needles, individually, from the idle 
to the working series, during the widening operation are similar to the 



231 



21.4 



KNITTING 




Fig. 133. Acuit; Pull Automatic Machine. 



232 



KNITTING 215 



pickers for transferring the needles from the working to the idle series 
during the narrowing operation, the only difference being that the 
depressing pickers are provided with lips which overlie the needle butt, 
which is in engagement with the notched end of the picker, and the 
picker is arranged to move downward when engaged by a needle butt 
and thus carry the needle downward from the idle towards the working 
series. 

In other words the pickers operate as follows, taking, for example, 
the lifter: As the cam cylinder rotates, the notched end of the lifter 
comes against the butt of the first needle in the row of active needles. 
The needle, being held in a vertical groove in the stationary needle 
cylmder, cannot move sidewise, and so its butt stops the lifter from 
further motion with the cam cylinder, or in other words, forces it back- 
ward relatively to the advancing cam cylinder. The lifter is so mount- 
ed that it can retreat only in a diagonally upward path, and since it has 
a finger which underlies the needle butt, it carries the needle butt with 
it, and thus lifts the needle to inoperative position, the needle rising in 
its groove. The butts or heels of these needles which are in operation 
are just above the ledge of the cam cylinder, so as to be in the path of 
the stitch cam and be thereby pulled down so as to knit. The in- 
active needles are in a higher plane, with their butts above the guide 
plates, so as to be completely out of the path of the stitch cams. 

The Acme machine employs a rotary winder device for winding 
the free end of the thickening or extra thread around the main thread. 

Winder. The construction of this winder is such that, when the 
winding of the free end of the thickening thread about the main thread 
has been completed, the free end of the thickening thread can be pulled 
out from the winder by the main thread, without being undamped 
from the winder. It consists of a stationary stud or boss having in it 
two thread passages, one for the main thread, and the other for the 
thickening thread. The main thread runs continuously through its 
passage, thence through a thread eye and take-up to the needles. 
Mounted upon the stationary boss, so as to be capable of rotation 
thereon, is the shell or sleeve, which forms the winder. Upon the end 
of the winder or sleeve are formed a number of projections of wire or 
bristles in the form of a ring-like brush. 

When it is desired to withdraw the thickening thread from the 
main thread, the hook upon the three-armed lever pulls the thickening 



233 



216 KNITTING 



thread to one side so as to engage one of the spaces or slots between the 
bristles at the end of the winder, and the further movement of the 
lever causes its lower arm to strike an arm connected with the jaw, and 
so to sever the thickening thread, the end of which remains in the slot 
in the end of the winder until the next operation thereof. 

The Acme machine illustrated in Fig. 133 is a full automatic, 
built in what is sometimes termed a box pattern style. The head or 
knitting cylinder is located in the bed plate so that the work is directly 
in front of the machine. The skeleton cylinder is one of the distinctive 
features of this machine, which is also true of the pattern wheel system 
for regulating the length of the tubular knitting, the length of the stitch 
and also to operate the stop motion at the completion of the stocking. 
^Yhen the machine changes to the reciprocating motion to knit the 
heel or toe, the pattern wheel is automatically thrown out of action 
and a ratchet wheel is provided to take its place while knitting the 
heel or toe. This ratchet feeds one tooth for each needle required to 
narrow, and one tooth for each needle required to widen, and requires 
one full revolution to complete the heel or toe. When the machine 
changes again to rotary motion, the pattern wheel is automatically 
thrown into action and completes the tubular portion of the stocking. 
A transfer cup or quill ring is used for transferring, instead of 
changing cylinders. 

These machines are built in J inch sizes, from 2 to 4J inches with 
any number of needles up to 17 to the inch. 

The Needle Cylinder is represented as a vertical section in Fig 134. 
This illustration also shows some of the parts connected with it. a" 
^ and a^ are the needle cylinder proper, supported in the cylinder guide 
O which surrounds and retains the lower end of the needle cylinder. 
At this end of the needle cylinder, between it and the cylinder guide, is 
a cam ring n^ with the projection if which, when the cam ring is 
rotated and also by reason of the inclined portions of the cylinder bot- 
tom, allows the cylinder to descend by gravity, thus shortening the 
stitch and reducing at the desired place the size of the stocking. A 
guide block r^ (See also Fig. 136), which is fastened in the cylinder 
euide and extends into the vertical slot, r", in the cylinder, serves to 
guide the needle cylinder in its vertical movement and to prevent it 
from turning. 

The upper end of the needle cylinder a^ is made broader or thick- 



234 



KNITTING 



217 



er by the addition of the ring a^ to its interior. The ring is fastened 
to the cyhnder with a screw 4 and has a projecting ledge a? which 
supports the jack support-ring a?, which is in turn secured to the 
cyUnder by means of the screw 5. The jack supporting ring is slotted 
on the top edge to form a support for the outer ends of the jacks a^", 
and similar grooves are provided in the upper end of the part ci' of the 
needle cylinder, for the inner ends of the jack. Each jack is made 
with a projection d" to enter the annular groove in the ring a", which 
is movably mounted to rotate on the jack supporting ring o^. It is 
the function of the jack ring a", with its cam shaped groove, to oper- 
ate the jacks and withdraw their fingers a" out of the paths of the 
needles when a stitch is being formed. 



.6 oS 




Fig. 134. Needle Cylinder. 

The ring a" rests directly upon, and is supported by, the ring 
a?, and is operated from the cam cylinder a} by means of an arm a", 
which is fixed to the latter and engages with the stops projecting out- 
ward from the jack ring a". Adjusting screws are inserted in the 
stops and are acted upon by the arm a" — one when the cam cylinder 
is moved in one direction, and the other when the cam cylinder is 
moved in the opposite direction. This enables the cam for moving 
the sinkers, and the knitting cams to be put in their proper relative 
positions during the knitting operation, as is necessary in machines 
using sinkers, there being more or less lost motion between the sinker 
cam ring and the cam cylinders during the changes in reciprocating 
knitting. 



28b 



218 



KNITTING 



The Jacks a}° which take the stitches as they are formed and 
push them back from the needles thus taking-up the work as fast as 
it is knit, are prevented from being raised (by the work) by the ring 
b which is provided with the flange ¥. Between the flanges and the 




Fig. 135. Skeleton Cylinder. 

top of the needle cylinder, are contained the jacks, free to be actuated 
horizontally in the groove in the jack cam ring a". The ring b is 
secured to the needle cylinder by means of a set screw &^. 

In circular knitting the cam for moving the sinkers is so located 
with relation to the drawing down surfaces as to pull the sinkers out 
as the needles commence their descent, the groove of the sinker operat- 
ing cam ring pushing the sinkers inward preparatory to the rising of the 
needles to take the stitch of yarn. 

The sinker cam ring is provided with adjusting screws to time 
the action of the sinkers. The sinkers also perform the function of 
web-holders. The sinker ring is fastened to the needle cylinder with 
screws, and is not to be removed therefrom except when necessary for 
unusual repairs. 



236 



KNITTING 



219 



The droppers and lifters X" are operated by a cam and swing out- 
ward, carrying the needle up or down as required, and locking them- 
selves in position for the next needle. The stitch gauge is on the front 
of the machine and the stitch may readily be changed in any part of 
the stocking without interfering with any of the other working parts. 

The Acme is of that type of automatics in which the quill ring or 
transfer cup is employed for making socks or half hose with rib tops, 
or when rib legs are to be footed, as in the case of boy's stockings, 
consequently the needles are run up on a level and then lowered into 
the cylinder by raising the needle cylinder. 




Fig. 136. View of Cylinder Showing Latch-Guard Ring. 

A Skeleton Cylinder (Fig. 135 and a^ in Figs. 134 and 136) is 
placed between the needle cylinder and the cam cylinder, and fastened 
to the bed plate, or needle cylinder socket, of the machine. The bars 
or walls a" of the skeleton cylinder line vv^ith the lands or walls of the 
needle cylinder proper. The slots in the needle cylinder are cut deep 
enough to provide a good bearing for the needles, and the bars of the 
skeleton serve as guides to the butts a'"' of the needles, which extend 
outwardly between the bars and through to the cam cylinder in which 
are disposed the cams to actuate them As the skeleton cylinder is 
fastened to the bed plate by means of screws, it can be readily removed 



237 



220 KNITTING 



and substituted l)y another having a greater or less number of bars, ac- 
cording as it is desired to achxpt the machine to knit coarse or fine 
fabrics. When the skeleton is changed it will, of course, be necessary 
to change the needle cylinder so that the spaces and slots will cor- 
respond and be of the same gauge. 

The Cam Cylinder is so constructed that the needles are drawn 
down from a common level to take the stitch and then returned to the 
same level. When the needles are on this level, the latches are above 
the stitches that are on the needles, and to prevent the latches from 
closing and casting off the stitch, a latch guard ring (8, Fig. 136) is 
provided, which also feeds or guides the thread to the needles. 

The cam cylinder is rotated or reciprocated, as the character of 
the knitting requires, by means of a bevel toothed gear, B^^, engaging 
with the bevel teeth a cut in the lower edge of the cam cylinder a^. 

Method of Driving. In the illustrations shown at Figs. 133 and 
137 the table or bed is represented by A and rests on the supports A^ 
to which are ialso secured the several mechanisms contained in the 
machine for effecting the different knitting processes. The main 
shaft A^, sometimes called the cam shaft, is provided with two loose 
pulleys for the driving belt, which is under the control of the shipper 
fork and its actuating mechanism. This mechanism consists of a 
block A" which slides on a stud and is acted upon by the spiral spring 
B^'' to keep the belt upon the outer pulley; the belt being shifted by 
means of a link A^ connected to the block and to an arm of a rock 
shaft A^^, which is mounted in bearings at the side of the machine, 
and has a handle A" which is used to start the machine. When the 
handle has been turned far enough to shift the belt on to the inner 
pulley, the arm will rest on or just above one arm of the pivoted elbow 
lever B*. The link has an adjusting screw which may be adjusted so 
as to strike the arm sooner or later after the pivot, which connects the 
link and arm, passes the line of center of the rock shaft, to thus deter- 
mine the ease of motion of the link. 

The cam shaft has fast on it a gear B^^ which engages the beveled 
teeth a in the lower end of the cam cylinder a\ On the main shaft A^ 
is the hub part of a clutch B^^ held fast to turn with the shaft by a 
feather, B", but loose to move endways, the hub being grooved on the 
outside to receive a two part ring C which is connected by means of 
studs to the forked clutch arm B^ wdiich is pivoted at B^ and connect- 



238 



KNITTING 



221 



ed by the link B" with the pin 2 located at the inner end of the clutch 
lever D^^ (Figs. 139 and 140). The clutch lever is pivoted at D*^ 

The hub B*^ (See Fig. 137) has at its sides, spring-actuated pins a 
and h projecting through the washers on the sides of the hub. A short 
distance from the hub is a loose gear O mounted on a flanged bushing 
and collar arrangement secured to the shaft by a set screw and pro- 
vided with a hole in the clutch face to receive the pin. At the opposite 
side of the hub and loose upon the shaft, is the pinion C^ which is 
secured to the sleeve of the loose pulley A^. When the machine is in 
motion this pinion engages and drives the large gear C^. In the face 
of the pinion is a hole to receive the pin h in the clutch hub. 

v8 




Fig. 137. Method of Driving. 

The gear C has a crank pin (See Figs. 138 and 139) provided 
with a link C^" which, at its opposite end, is attached to a stud on the 
segment gear C^^ pivoted at C^^, the segment engaging the loose gear 
C^ and oscillating It continuously. When the pin h of the clutch hub 
B'^ engages the gear C^ the main shaft will be rotated for circular 
knitting, and the segment will move the loose gear C^ back and forth 
on the bushing, but when the hub is shifted, so that the pin a of the 
clutch engages the gear C^, the latter becomes fastened to the main 
shaft, and the segment actuating it will oscillate the shaft for reciprocal 
knittinn; for heel and toe work. 

The Pattern Wheel System. The main shaft A^ has secured to it 
at one end (See Figs. 133 and 138) the pinion D" by means of which 
motion is transmitted through the connecting pawl operating mechan™ 



239 



909 



KNITTING 



ism. This mechanism consists of the gear D' ; the adjustably mount- 
ed crank pin D^, which is attached to the Unk D^; the pawl carrier D^, 
which is pivoted on the stud a* and on which is mounted a spring 
actuated pawl to engage the teeth of the ratchet wheel D'''. This 
ratchet wheel is the prime mover of the pattern Avheel system peculiar 
to this machine. 




^^^^:^>^ 



Fig. 138. Gears and Ratchets. 



The crank pin D^ may be adjusted to control the stroke of the 
pawl, so that it will move the ratchet wheel the distance of one or any 
desired numl jer of teeth ; the greater the movement of the ratchet w^ieel 
the shorter the stocking, and vice versa. The pawl has in its side, a 
pin a^ which, when the knitting is to be changed from circular to heel 
and toe knitting, during which time the pattern wheels a^^ and a'° in 
Figs. 142 and 138 are left at rest, is struck by one end of a lever D^ 
connected with a link D^, Fig. 138, with an elbow lever D^ pivoted at 
D^^ (See Fig. 139) to a lug 4, projecting from the clutch lever D^^ 
(also shown in Fig. 138) which latter is moved when the change from 
circular to reciprocal knitting and vice versa is to })e made by the pat- 
tern wheel. 

The outer end of the clutch lever D^^ (Figs 138 and 139) is forked 
to embrace the wheel C®, each fork being provided with sliding pins 



340 



KNITTING 



223 



a"' and a^"" (See Fig. 140), each pin having at or near one end a pro- 
jecting cross pin, entering inclined slots in the sliding bar a'^ which is 
moved in one or the other direction, according as it is desired to change 
from circular to reciprocal knitting or vice versa. 




Fig. 139. 

The bar a>^ has connected to it a lever pivoted at D^^ and having 
connected to it a link slotted at one end to embrace and slide on a screw 
stud carried by a change lever a" (Fig. 141) with three arms, and 
being pivoted on a stand attached to the bed. 

The change lever a^^ is acted upon its right-hand end when the 
change from circular to reciprocal knitting is to be made, by a latch 
b^ which forms a part of the pattern wheel system, and is carried by 
the radius bar b^ (Fig. 141) mounted loosely on the hub 6^" of the 
disc h^ fast on the shaft E (see also Fig. 142) having as its bearing the 
short sleeve c^ the bar having an attached clamping dog ¥, bearing 
against the outer edge of the disc with sufficient friction to cause the 



841 



224 



KNITTING 



bar to rotate with it and strike the lever a" at the proper time. A 
spring // acts on the latch b^ to hold it normally away from the bar. 

The left hand end of the change lever is acted upon, when the 
change from reciprocal to circular knitting is to be made, by a latch 
pivoted on a radius bar c\ the ring of the bar surrounding the hub c" 
of a disc, loose on the sleeve c^ which is secured to the table or bed sup- 
port A*. The bar c* is adjustable about the hub by means of a set 
screw in a slot of the arm c^ A spring acts on a latch to normally 
press it away from the bar cK 



,4 BfTT 

9* \ .12 

A ;3 




The switch D for raising up the needles not to be used for heel 
and toe work, and for letting them down when they are required for 
circular or round and round work, has, see Fig. 143, its stem projecting 
through the plate N attached to the outer side of the cam cylinder B. 
The stem outside the plate has feather-splined on it a gear n^, which 
is kept on by the screw n^. The gear meshes into the rach n^, which 
is connected to the slide block n*, fitted into the guideway n^ of the 
plate N. When the rack is moved up it turns the gear on the stem of 
the switch and sets it in position to raise up and put out of action those 
needles which are not required for knitting the heel and toe, the rack 
being lowered to put the switch in position, after a heel or toe has been 



248 



KNITTING 



225 




finished, to lead down all the needles previously lifted, and then to be 
raised in circular knitting. 

The rack has a cam face at one side, with which co-operates a 
locking device w*', which serves to hold the rack in position as left by 
its actuating device. When the narrowing in the heel and toe work 
is about to begin, the projecting pin 71' (See Fig. 143) is struck by the 
lower one of the pair of switch shifter 
levers n^ and n^ (See Fig. 144) piv- 
oted at n'". One shifter rests above 
the other, and each is acted upon by 
a spring w^^ to keep the acting ends 
pressed toward the cam cylinder. 
The lower switch shifter has a place 
milled out as at 5, into which en- 
ters a projection w", carried by the 
shifter ring c*^ which has imparted 
to it a slight movement in the di- 
rection of the arrow, shown at Fig. 
144, just as the change from the 
straight or round and round work 
to the heel or toe knitting is to be 

effected which moves the projection into the milled place on the lever 
or shifter n^ permitting the cam shaped end to move into the path of 
movement of the pin ri' , Fig. 143. At the same time the projection 
'n}^ acts against and moves the upper shifter in the opposite direction. 

After the heel or toe has been completed the ring c" is moved in 
the opposite direction, causing the projection n^^ to act on and move 
outwardly the shifter n^, and let the shifter n^ come into action to 
strike the upper side of the pin n'' and move the rack and switch D to 
guide all the needles again into position for straight Vv^ork or circular 
knitting 

Changing the Length of Stitch. When a stocking is to be started, 
the stitches in the larger part of the leg should be a little looser or 
longer than in the lower part of the leg and in the foot. This is ac- 
complished by mechanism for raising and lowering the needle cylinder. 
Notches are provided in the lower end of the needle cylinder which 
rests on the ring /i' and which is provided with projections /i" (See 
Figs. 140 and 136). To move this ring so that the projections will 



Fig. 141. 



243 



226 KNITTING 



enter and move out of the notches and thereby raise and lower the 
cylinder, power is obtained from the cam d^ on the inner end of the 
shaft E (See Fig. 142) by means of the connecting levers cP'', c?^^", 
B^, and the rod B^'"" connected to the lever h^"^ attached to the movable 
needle cylinder elevating ring h' (See Fig. 140). 

At the commencement of a stocking, where the largest tubular 
portion is desired, the cam roller fP should stand on the lower part of 
the cam d!' just beyond the high part 12, and in such condition that 
the lever B'' acts against the collar B**" and compresses the spring B*". 
As the knitting progresses the cam travels along by the roller and when 
the leg should be contracted, the cam d^ acts on the roller. The lever 
is gradually moved back from the collar B**" thus permitting the spring 
B'*'' to move the rod B^'' and with it the lever W^, bringing the pro- 
jection on the ring into the notch in the cylinder thereby letting it 
descend into the position for the shortest stitches to be made. The 
extent of this movement is regulated by the adjusting collar 9". 

When the toe is about completed, the cam d^ meets the roller c?*" 
and just at this time the lever e is moved, causing the pawl e' to engage 
the ratchet teeth a^^ shown at Fig, 141, and impart to the plate d a 
quicker movement than would be effected by the gear wheels, thus 
giving to the levers fF" and B^ quick movements causing the outer end 
of the lever B^ to act upon the collar B"^" and push the rod in the direc- 
tion to turn the needle cylinder elevating ring, and thus lift the cylin- 
der quickly to provide for stitches of the greatest length, and as the 
roller passes over the high part 12 (Fig. 142) longer stitches will be 
made for a slack course. The slack course forms a line around the 
stocking to indicate the loops to separate the stocking from the con- 
tinuous string. 

The Stop Mechanism. The elbow lever BS shown at Fig. 137, 
has connected to it a slotted link B'', in which is placed one end of the 
tension lever B^ shown at Fig. 140, and pivoted at B^\ The tension 
lever is moved by the high part 12, at the completion of each stocking, 
to turn the arm B* and cause it to act on the arm A^'^ and turn it far 
enough to let the spring A^ act to shift the belt onto the outer pulley, 
and thus stop the machine. 

Just as the stocking is finished, if the machine is to be stopped, 
the first abrupt end of the cam meets the roller c^®" on the lever d"" and 



2^44 



KNITTING 



227 



stops or rests on the cam d'^, just behind the high part 12, in position to 
start the machine. 

The machine having been stopped and the stocking run off, it may 
be again started, and if the stocking is to be short and knitted to a 
ribbed top, then but one abrupt part d^"" and the high part 12 will be 
necessary, bui in case it is desired to knit stockings connected together, 
the web of stockings to be separated after being taken from the ma- 
chine, remove the link B" shown at Fig. 141, so that after one or more 
regulai' courses ha\^e been knitted, the needle cylinder may again be 




Fig. 142. Cam Shaft. 

raised to make a second slack course by means of which to accurately 
separate or sever the leg of one stocking from the toe of a previously 
knitted stocking, and then return to the regular knitting. 

The automatic twister or reinforcing attachment is provided for 
twisting the end of the reinforcing or thickening thread around the 
main or knitting thread to reinforce or thicken the heel or toe. Means 
are also provided to cut out the reinforcing thread when the heel or 
toe is finished, leaving the thread in position to be automatically 
twisted in again for the next heel or toe. Another attachment is 
provided for automatically changing the yarn in the heel and toe to a 



845 



228 



KNITTING 



yarn of a different color. Provision is also made for making plated 
stockings, i. e., wool surface with cotton inside. Attachments are also 
provided to make a lace effect. 

Setting-Up and Starting a New Machine from the Factory. It is 
a good practice to set the machines 13 or 14 inches apart. The belt 
should be nearly as wide as the pullty on the machine, and may be run 

from a floor shaft, or from an overhead 
shaft. If driven from a floor shaft, the 
driving shaft should have such a speed 
as to allow the pulleys to be 10 or 12 
inches in diameter, while if driven from 
an overhead shaft, the driving shaft 
may have such a speed as to allow the 
use of 7 or S inch pulleys. The speed 
of the machine should ordinarily be 
from 240 to 265 revolutions per min- 
ute, though on some kinds of work a 
speed of 300 revolutions may be used. 
After the machine has been set in 
its proper place and all grease and dirt 
removed, see that the h tches on the 
cam cylinder lock the dropper and lifter 
in place, replace the disconnected parts 
and connect them ; then put on the yarn 
and lower the center block switch cam, the stem of which protrudes 
through the cam cylinder bracket directly under the yarn tube in the 
latch ring;, or thread carrier. This will allow the butts of the needles 
to pass under the stitch cam. Turn the machine a few times by 
hand to be sure that everything is working properly Ijcfore starting 
up with power on. 

To Replace a Broken Needle. Raise the center block cam, so 
that the needles will all be on a level, and then raise the latch ring or 
yarn guide. Then raise the elevating cam on the cam cylinder op- 
posite the automatic switch, set the automatic switch so that it will not 
pull the needles down and hold back the switch cam shifter so that it 
will not change the switch. Turn the machine bv hand and the nee- 
dies will all raise above the cams. Then pull out the plugs which hold 
the brass ring in place, and raise the cylinder out of machine. Take 




Fig. 143. 



246 



KNITTING 



229 



out the broken or damaged needles and put in new ones; replace the 
cylinder and lock the brass ring in place. Push the elevating cam 
down, and push down ten or twelve needles directly above the switch 
cam shifter. This will allow the automatic switch room to change. 
Turn the machine and the neeflles will all go down to the level. Then 
drop the center switch cam. 

To replace a sinker, take off the sinker cam plate, replacing and 
adjusting it again after replacing the sinker. 

To Set a Pattern for Stockings or Hose. In starting a stocking or 




Fig. 144. 

hose, the two indicators on the outside end of the pattern wheel should 
stand together. On the inside end of the pattern wheel are two discs 
or wheels. Each of these discs has a trip or pawl fastened upon it by 
a clamp, which can be moved back and forth by loosening the screws 
which hold it in place. These trips operate upon the change motion to 
change from the circular motion to the reciprocating motion. The 
inside disc is for the toe, and the second one is for the heel. Upon the 
side of the toe disc is a high point and an incline. The high point 
operates the stop motion to stop the machine when the hose is com- 



247 



230 KNITTING 



plete, or to make a loose course when making a lady's hose as string 
work. The incline operates the stitch gauge to regulate the length 
of the stitch of the leg and ankle. The toe trip should be set so it will 
be about one and one-half inches back of this high point. This dis- 
tance regulates the number of courses knit on the toe of the stocking 
or hose to seam or loop by, and will allow about eight or ten courses. 
If too much, set the trip farther from the high point; if not enough, set 
the heel trip nearer to the high point on heel disc about five-sixths of 
the distance around the disc, back of the toe trip. This regulates the 
length of the foot. If the foot is too long, set the trip still farther 
around; if too short, do not set it around so far. Always get the length 
of the foot by changing the heel trip, and do not change the toe trip 
after once getting the proper number of courses to seam or loop by. 

On the outside end of the pattern whee^ are two large gears. 
Between these gears is a segment with three or four teeth cut in it to 
match the teeth in the large gear and which is fastened to the outside 
gear with a clamp. Loosen the clamp and set the segment back to 
lengthen the leg of the stocking or hose; or set it forward to shorten the 
leg. After setting the segment forward or backward, clamp it to the 
outside gsar so that the three or four teeth in it will be sure to line with 
the teeth in the outside gear. Always feed one tooth on the pattern 
wheel ratchet in making ladies' stockings or hose. 

To Set-Up Pattern for Socks or Half Hose. Have the toe trip in 
about the same position as for ladies' hose, moving it forward or back- 
ward to get the proper length to loop or seam by. Set the heel trip 
about opposite the toe trip or about one-half way around the disc back 
of toe trip, and set the segment forward or backward, as on ladies' 
hose, to ge^ the proper length of leg. Feed two teeth on the pattern 
wheel ratchet to make socks or half hose. 

To Set-Up Pattern for Footing Rib Legs for Misses' or Boys' 
Hose. Set the toe trip nearer to the high point than for ladies' stock- 
ings, moving it a little forward or back to regulate length to seam or 
loop by. Set the heel trip about one-third around the disc back of the 
toe trip or as far as necessary to get proper length of foot. Regulate 
the length of the ankle by the segment between the outside gear, and 
feed from four to eight teeth on outside ratchet, according to the size of 
hose desired. Four teeth will make about size 9t, and eight teeth will 
make size 4^. 



248 



KNITTING 231 



The Operation. In describing the operation of knitting a stocking 
or hose upon this machine, we will represent the needles by a series of . 
small lines as shown in Fig. 145. These needles may be said to be 
divided into three sets ; one set, namely, those inclosed with the bracket 
A, extending one-half way round the cylinder; two sets BB each extend- 
ing about one-sixth of the way round the cylinder on opposite sides of 
the same, and one set C between the sets B B. A thread is fed to all 
the needles, and the machine is rotated so as to produce, by round and 
round knitting, continuous circular courses of stitches, until the desired 
length of tubular fabric for the leg has been formed and it becomes 
necessary to form a heel. 

In knitting a sock, the stitches of a short length of ribbed tubular 
fabric may be applied to the needle of the machine before commencing 
to knit the leg of the §ock, so that when the sock is complete, it will 
have a rib top; but in knitting a lady's stocking, where no rib top is 
required, the needles may have a greater draft while knitting the upper 
or calf portion of the leg than while knitting the lower or ankle portion. 
After the desired length of tubular fabric has been produced for the 
leg, the needles A are raised so that their butts or shanks are above and 
free from the action of all the cams, leaving only needles B and C in 
action. 

An extra thread, or thickening thread, is twisted to the main 
thread to reinforce or thicken the heel, the machine at the same time 
changing from rotary to reciprocating motion. The two threads are 
carried back and forth around that part of the needle cylinder having 
the needles B and C forming stitches upon them, At the end of each 
reciprocating motion, one of the needles B, at the end adjacent to the 
needles, is thrown up and cut of action, first on one side and then on 
the opposite side, so that with each reciprocating movement, the web 
produced is narrowed to the extent of one needle, first on one side and 
then on the opposite side. This narrowing operation is continued 
until all of the needles B B have been thrown out of action, leaving 
only the needles C in action. As soon as this has been done, the nee- 
dles B B must again be thrown into action for the purpose of widening. 
This is done by lowering two needles into action, and after knitting 
one course of stitches upon them, one is thrown out of action again. 
This is continued first on one side, then on the opposite side, until all 
of the needles B B have been lowered into action in the reverse order 



240 



232 



KNITTING 



from that in which they were thrown out of action. When this is 
done, the thickening thread is cut out, the needles A are lowered into 
action again, and the machine changed from reciprocating to rotary 
motion. 

The operation just described is performed to produce a seamless 
pocket, which constitutes the heel of the stocking or hose. After the 
heel has been completed, knitting of the tubular fabric is resumed and 
continued, until it is of the length desired for the foot of the stocking 
or hose, thereupon, the operation resorted to in order to form the heel 
is repeated to form the toe. 

After the completion of the toe, a few tubular courses are knit, 





Fig. 145. 

then the stocking or sock may be cast off the needles, and a new stock- 
ing or sock commenced. But if it is intended to operate the machine, 
to produce stocking after stocking in succession, the production of the 
tubular fabric may, after the formation of the toe, be continued to form 
the leg of the next stocking, and so on, the fal^ric being cut off near the 
toe, so that each stocking will present the appearance shown in Fig. 
145, the toe being completed by uniting the edges D D in the usual 
manner. 

THE RIBBING MACHINE 

Half hose are finished with a rib top, as alluded to several times 
previously, ribbed fabric being very elastic and better adapted for the 
purpose than plain knit fabric. 



250 




VIEW IN KNITTING DEP'T OF DES MOINES HOSIERY MILLS SHOWING 
ACME KNITTING MACHINES 



KNITTING 233 



The Rib Top Machine, or "Ribbing Machine" as it is more com- 
monly called, is a single feed, full automatic machine with two banks 
of needles (dial and cylinder) designed especially for making rib tops. 
It is so constructed that almost any desired length of rib can be made, 
either very elastic or non-elastic, in a continuous string, having any 
desired number of welts from one to six, and an extra course of long 
stitches, for convenience in placing the stitches on points of what is 
known as a transfer, or direct on the needles of the knitting machine 
according to the method in use. 

The ribs are cut by hand, or by a rib-cutter which the operator 
operates with the foot, severing the string between the round of long 
stitches (slack course) and the welts. These must be cut as near the 
welts and as straight as possible, for this represents the top of the sock. 
When the rib is cut off we have the rib proper. It is then placed on 
either transfer points or the needles of the knitting machine. In case 
of the former, which is in most general use, the rib is then transferred 
to the needles of the knitting machine by placing the hollow points of 
the transfer over the eyes of the needles, and lowering them until the 
hooks of the needles pass the stitches on the points, when the transfer 
can be removed, leaving the rib stitches on the machine needles. 

If the knitting machine is full automatic, it proceeds with its 
work, making the leg, heel, foot and toe, throwing an extra thread in 
both heel and toe, thus producing what is termed a reinforced, or 
spliced heel and toe. After completing the toe, several rounds of 
stitches are knit on to make room for the looping, or closing of the toe 
on a looping machine. 

The ribbing machine belongs to the Stationary Needle Cylinder 
class in which the needle cylinder, needle dial, take-up and fabric are 
stationary; and the cam ring (to which are fixed the vertical needle 
actuating cams), the cam dial (to which are fixed the cams for actuating 
the horizontal or radial needles), and crossbar, or yoke, revolve. 

The ribbing machine being of smaller diameter is usually fitted 
with but one feed and one set of cams each for cylinder and dial. One 
of the sets, usually the dial set, is provided with a movable cam in order 
to effect the change from the plain stitch to the welt which will not 
ravel out, for the finish of the cuff. The welt consists of two or three 
courses of short stitches and is made by allowing the dial needles to 
project only about half the usual distance so as to hold their loops with- 



251 



234 



KNITTING 



out knitting; or in other words so that the loop already in the hook is 
allowed to slip back only far enough to open the latch and let the yarn 
carrier feed one or more loops into it, thus forming a separate tubular 
plain fabric for a few courses. 

This variation of needle movement is effected by means of a mov- 
able cam which is controlled by a pattern wheel arrangement. 



n 



^) 



DIAL CAM 
ADJUSTING 
-iMECHANISM 




PATTERN ' CHAIN 



Fig. 146. Type of Rib Top Machine. Sectional View. 

It is customary to knit a course of long loose stitches somewhat 
less than a half an inch from the welt, so that when the continuous 
string of ribbed tops are cut apart, the loose stitches may be easily 
transferred on to the needles of the stocking machine. The loose or 



aie 



KNITTING 



235 



slack course is made in the fabric by means of the cylinder needles, 
actuated by a movable cam in the cam ring, which is conti oiled by a 
pattern wheel. Fig. 146 represents a type of this machine. 




Fig. 147. Hemphill Full Automatic Machine. 

HEMPHILL FULL AUTOMATIC 

The machine illustrated at Fig. 147 represents another type of 
circular knitting machine in which web-holders or sinkers are em- 
ployed with latch-needles to knit seamless stockings with heel and 
toe of different yarn. 



253 



236 KNITTING 



Method of Driving. The bed 1 of the machine is supported by a 
frame 2, mounted on legs 3, as iUustrated in Fig. 148, a cup-shaped 
bearing 4 being formed below the bed (also shown in Fig. 154). 

The main shaft of the machine is represented at 7, and is pro- 
vided with the large bevel-gear 8 secured thereto at one end, while 
the other end is mounted in a sleeve 9, to which is secured a driving- 
pulley 10, having a crank-handle 11 for working the machine by hand. 
A loose pulley 12 is mounted on an extension of the hub of the driving- 
pulley. Loosely mounted on the shaft near the bevel-gear 8, is a 
pinion 13; the inner end of the sleeve 9 is also formed as a pinion 14. 
Between the pinions 13 and 14 is a clutch-hub 15, with a feather to 
permit the hub to slide while held from independent rotation. Two 
projections or teeth 16, in the clutch-hub, engage a groove in one or 
the other of the pinions 13 and 14; and an angular groove 17 receives 
pins or rollers IS, carried by a shifting yoke 19, which is secured to 
one end of rock-shaft 20 (see Figs. 149 and 165) mounted in a bearing 
21. 

A gear 22 (see Figs. 148 and 149) is mounted in a bearing sup- 
ported by the frame and meshes with pinion 14, and is constantly 
driven thereby during the operation of both the round-and-round 
work and heel-and-toe knitting operation. To crank-pin 23 (see 
Fig. 148) is connected one end of :. oitman 24, the other end being 
connected with one end of an elbow-lever 25, mounted on a shaft 26, 
supported in standards 27. The other end of the lever 25 is provided 
with a segmental gear 29 wnich meshes with pinion 13 on the main 
shaft (see Figs. 148, 149, and 154). 

When the clutch-hub is in engagement with the pinion which is 
constantly driven, the gear will move continuously in one direction. 
During this time the segmental gear is imparting a rotary reciprocating 
motion to the pinion which is loose on the shaft ; but when the clutch- 
hub is shifted to engage the loose pinion, it is disengaged from the con- 
stant pinion, which latter then imparts to the shaft and to the gear 8 a 
rotary reciprocating motion. The motion of the elbow-lever imparts 
movement to the pattern-chain and to certain cams, through the medi- 
um of pawls. 

Pattern Chain. A shaft 30 is mounted in bearings 32 (Fig. 149) 
supported by the frame. Loosely mounted on this shaft is a ratchet 
33, to one side of which is secured the pattern-chain pulley 34 (see also 



254 



KNITTING 



237 



Fig. 164), the pulley having teeth to engage the links in the pattern- 
chain, some links having lugs 36. The ratchet and pulley are driven 
in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 162, by means of a pawl 37 
connected with one end of an elbow-arm 38 (see Fig. 148) mounted 
on shaft 26, the other end of the arm being secured to the side of the 
elbow-lever by means of a bolt. A bracket 41 is secured to the frame 
of the machine (see particularly Fig. 149); and bolted to this bracket 




Fig. 148. 

is a shield 24, on which the pawl rides during a portion of its stroke. 
The shield is secured to the bracket with a bolt to adjust the amount of 
feed imparted to the pattern-chain. A ratchet 43 (see Figs. 163 and 
164) is secured to the shaft 30 on the opposite side of the pulley 34; 
and this cam-driving ratchet is intermittently rotated by means of a 
pawl 44 when permitted by the lugs of the chain. The pawl 44 is also 
connected with the elbow-lever 25, and is reciprocated thereby. The 
shield is pivoted on a pin 46, carried by the bracket and extending 



255 



238 



KNITTING 



over both ratchets and chain-pulley, and is provided with an arm 47, 
having a pin 48, which projects into the path of movement of the chain- 
lugs. A spring 49 is coiled about the' pin 46, and tends to hold the 
arm and shield in position; but when a chain lug raises the pin, the 
shield is depressed, the pawl engages a tooth of the ratchet, advances 
the latter, and partially rotates the shaft and the cam-discs. 

One complete rotation of the shaft 30 and its cams takes place 




Fig. 149. 

during the knitting of one stocking, the length o^ the article and its 
shape being controlled by the length of the chain employed and the 
spacing and number of lugs carried by the chain. The knitting opera- 
tion itself continues uninterruptedly without regard to the rotation of 
shaft and cams; but when a stocking is finished, the rotation of the 
shaft effects the automatic stoppage of the entire knitting operation; 
and, during the single rotation of the shaft, it also effects two tempo- 
rary shafts of the driving-belt, to slow down or ease off the machine 
when the clutch-hub is moved into engagement with the pinion 13. 
This movement of the hub changes the knitting from circular or round- 
and-round work to the narrowing or widening at heel or toe, one-half 



256 



KNITTING 



239 



of the needles being thrown out of action. During the narrowing or 
widening the knitting-cams have a rotary reciprocating motion through 
the segment and other gearing; and to change to this motion from the 
continuous rotary motion, another mechanism is provided. 

Changing the Motion. At one end of the shaft 30— the right- 
hand end (Figs. 148 and 149)— there is secured a disc 60, having three 
cam-lugs 61 on its side, near the edge. These operate successively 
against a pin or roller 62, carried by a lever 63, pivoted at 64 to the 




Fig. 150. 

frame of the machine, the lower end of the lever being acted on by a 
spring 65 to keep the pin or roller in engagement with the cam-disc. 
The upper end of the lever 63 carries a belt-guide 66 for shifting the 
belt when cam 61 acts on the shipping lever. 

The lever is provided with a handle 67, and with the finger 68, 
which moves under and is held by a spring-latch 69 secured to the 
frame (see Fig. 149) whenever the lever 63 is moved to its limit of 
motion for throwing the belt off the fast pulley. One of the cams 61 
on the disc 60 is of a height sufficient to throw the lever to this limit of 
movement, so that the lever is retained by the spring-latch and the 



257 



240 



KNITTING 



driving-belt held on the loose pulley, thus stopping the machine. To 
start the machine, lift the spring-latch and permit the spring to cause 
the belt-shipping lever to restore the belt to the fast pulley; the move- 
ment of the disc which caused the lever to be caught by the spring- 
latch carries the cam-lug just beyond the roller of the lever. The 
other two cam-lugs cause the lever to shift the belt onto the loose pul- 




167 



Fig. 151. 



ley, but not to be engaged by the spring-latch, so that the power is 
thrown off the machine momentarily, at the moment when the change 
in the knitting above described is taking place. The cam-lugs operate 
the lever and pass beyond it during the time that the pawl is making 
one stroke to partly turn the shaft and its cams, the belt barely passing 
off the fast pulley before it is shifted back again. 

The Needle-Cylinder. The needle-cylinder 72 extends through a 
central opening in the cam-ring (see Fig. 154), and rests upon an an- 
nular shoulder 74 formed upon web-guide 75. The upper end of the 



258 



KNITTING 



241 



web-guide extends within the needle-cyUnder; and the lower end is 
steadied within ring 7G, supported by two rods or bars 77, which de 
pend from the bottom of the cup-shaped bearing 4. The ring 7G has a 
projecting hig 78 (see Figs. 149 and 150), to which block 79 is secured 
by means of a bolt. A stop SI extends vertically through the inner end 
of the block and projects above it. The web-guide 75 rests on the 
stop, except when raised for lengthening the stitch ; and it supports the 
needle-cylinder by means of the shoulder 74. The stop being ad- 
justable in the block 79, the needle-cylinder may be adjusted to alter 
the length of stitch. 



14-6 



150 /I34 




132 



The Knitting Cams. A cam-web 82 which forms about three- 
fourths of a circle (see Figs. 152, 153, 154, 157, and 158), is formed at 
each end with an incline or cam 83, and is secured to the ring 70. The 
cams 83 act on the heels of the needles to raise them during the knitting 
operation, the heels riding on the top of the web after being raised un- 
til acted on by one of the draw-cams. During straight or round-and- 
round knitting, but one of the cams 83 acts ; but on heel-and-toe work, 
when the cams are all given a rotary reciprocating movement, the two 
inclines or cams 83 act alternately to raise the needles. The two draw- 
cams 84, to lower the needles and draw the loops of yarn, face in op- 
posite directions, toward each other. Each cam 84 is formed on the 



259 



242 KNITTING 



end of a block 85, which is secured to a plate 86 on the inner end of a 
slide 87, fitted to reciprocate in a direction radial to the needle-cylinder 
in a guide-block 88, secured to the ring 70. A spring 80, is confined 
between the outer, closed end of the block 88 and the slide. The 
upper, as well as the lower, surfaces of the cams are inclined, the func- 
tion of the upper inclines being to complete the raising of the needles 
after they have been acted upon by the picking-finger in heel-and-toe 
work. The faces of the blocks are flat; and when one of the cams is 
traveling backward around the needle-cylinder, it rides over the outer 




67 



Fig. 153. 

ends of the heels of needles, the spring permitting the entire block and 
cam to be moved outward. During heel-and-toe work the rotary 
reciprocating motion of the cam-ring causes first one cam to operate, 
the other being pushed away; and vice versa on the reverse movement. 
Heel and Toe. Practically one-half of the needles have heels 
longer than those of the other needles. The long-heel needles are 
thrown out of action and remain so during the heel-and-toe work. 
Cam 90 (see Figs. 152 and 153 in connection with Fig. 154) travels in a 
plane entirely below the needle-heels during circular or round-and- 
round knitting, but is raised when the change to heel-and-toe work 
begins. It is secured to a block 91, rising from a segmental plate 92, 
which fits in the flange of the cam-web 82, and is provided with a pin 
93, extending down through the cam-ring 70 and through a long tubu- 



?6Q 



KNITTING 



243 



lar bearing 94, depending from ring 70. The lower end of the pin 93 
is acted upon in a vertical direction by a circular plate 95 within the 
cup-shaped bearing 4. 

The block and cam are prevented from rotating on the axis of 
the pin by the inner edge of the segmental plate. When cam 90 is 
elevated it will elevate the long-heel needles, thus carrying them out of 
position to be operated by the draw-cams. The block has also se- 
cured to it an arm 96, having a throw-in cam at the end. This cam. 



125 




Fig. 154. 

when lowered, engages the tops of the long heels and one short heel; 
and when the block is lowered at the end of the heel-and-toe work, 
it sweeps over the long heels and the single short heel, and lowers the 
needles to position for circular work. A pin 98 projects from the cam 
90, and is engaged by the outer end of a spring 99, the other end of 
which is secured to the flange of the cam-web 82. The spring acts to 
depress the block and cams when permitted by the descent of plate 95. 
Picking. The cup-shaped bearing 4 supports the cam-ring 70, 
which meshes with the teeth of the bevel-gear 8. This cam-ring is 
revolved continuously to produce circular or round-and-round work, 



a^i 



244 



KNITTING 




153 



Fig. 155. 



or is given a rotary reciprocating motion to produce heel-and-toe work. 
While doing the latter, practically one-half of the needles are first 
thrown out of action ; and a portion of the remaining needles are then 

thrown out of action one by one to nar- 
row, being restored in the reverse order 
to widen. 

The Picker. Mounted on the cam 
ring, and rotating therewith, is an arched 
standard 100, provided with an off set 101, 
in which is a vertical bore or recess 102 
closed at the top (Fig. 158). A plunger 103 
is fitted to slide and oscillate on its axis 
within the recess, and is pressed down- 
ward by a spring 104, confined be- 
tween the plunger and the top of the 
recess. To the lower end of this plunger, the picking-finger 105 
is pivoted, the plunger affording a support for the picking-finger and 
yielding vertically against the pressure of the spring 104; and the outer, 
short end or heel 106 of the finger is held between two springs 107 
secured to the standard or offset (see Fig. 160). These springs have a 
tendency to hold the picking-finger and the plunger in such position 
that the finger is radial to the needle-cyl- 
inder, but permit these parts to swing to 
either side of that position. The acting 
end of the picking-finger is shaped some- 
what in the form of an equal-armed cross 
(see Fig. 167), with two vertical lugs 108 
and two horizontal lugs 109. Fulcrum 110 
consists of a horizontal arm, having a sharp 
upper edge projecting from an elbow-lever 
111 pivoted to the side of the standard- 
offset 101. The cams 112 have no 
movement other than a vertical one. 

As the outer end of lever 111 sweeps around between them, it 
comes in contact with one or the other, according to the elevation of 
the block 113 and the cams, and causes the fulcrum-arm to shift its 
position. The movement of the fulcrum in one direction is limited 
by its coming in contact with the outer side of the standard 100, and 




202 



KNITTING 



245 



in the other direction by a stop 114 secured to one side of the offset 101, 
as shown in Figs. 152 and 160. To the feet of the standard 100 is 
secured a curved plate 115 (see Figs. 153, 157, 158, and 159) having an 
opening through which the picker extends. When narrowing is to be 
commenced at the heel or toe, and after the cam 90 has raised all of 
the long-heel needles out of action, the block 113 is raised, and the 
lower cam 112 throws the picking-finger 105, into the position shown 
in Fig. 157. At the same time, the motion of the cam-ring is changed 
from a continuous rotary to a rotary reciprocating movement, during 
which movement neither cam 90 nor cam 97 performs any function. 
As one side of the upper lug 108 of the picker comes in contact with 
the side of the butt of the first needle of the remaining series of needles, 
the end of the picker is stopped ; but since the cam-ring continues to 



107— 




115 108 



Fig. 157. 

move, and with it the standard and cam-plate, one of the lower cams 
117 of the plate rides under the finger and elevates it, thus causing the 
upper surface of one of the lugs 109 of the picker to throw that needle 
up out of action. As the finger finally rides into the slot 118 of the 
plate 115, the swinging of the finger causes the lugs of the finger to 
leave the butt of that needle. As soon as the finger leaves the need]e, 
the springs 104 and 107 cause it to assume the position indicated in 
Fig. 157, ready to engage and elevate a needle at the other end of the 
series. 

When the needles are to be brought back again into action one by 
one for widening, the block 113 is lowered, and the upper cam reverses 
the position of the elbow-lever 111, moving the picker to the position 
shown in Figs. 151 and 152. Then the lower lug 108 of the picker, 
and the under surfaces of the lugs 109, act on the butts of the needles 



263 



246 



KNITTING 



one by one to depress them under the influence of the upper cams 116 
of the phite 115. When all of the short-heel needles except one at 
each end of the series have been rendered active the block 91 is lower- 
ed and the first complete rotation of ring 70 causes the cam 97 to throw 
in all of the elevated needles, which are the long-heel needles, and the 
two remaining short-heel needles; round-and-round work is automati- 
cally resumed. The reason for throwing in the last two fashioning 
needles simultaneously with the long-heel needles, is to avoid leaving a 
small hole in the fabric each side of the heel. When all of the needles 
are down, the picking finger engages none of the heels, for it is then in 
the position shown in Fig. 152, the block 113 and the cams 112 being 
lowered. 

Sinkers. The web-holders or "sinkers" which co-operate with 
the needles and prevent the lifting of the web by the upward movement 




Fig. 158. 

of the needles, and which also help to draw the stitch, are indicated at 
120 (see Figs. 154 and 166 in connection with Figs. 148, 151, and 152). 
They are supported in radial grooves in a bed 121, which is secured to 
the needle-cylinder by screws 122, the bed having a horizontal flange 
123, which forms the bearing for a ring 124 carrying the cams for re- 
ciprocating the web-holders. Each web-holder has an upper shoulder 
125, to limit the inward movement, and a lower shoulder 126, which 
permits the cams carried by the ring 124 to withdraw the holder. 
The outer ends of the w^eb-holders are notched, as at 127, to receive 
an elastic band 128, consisting of an endless coil of fine steel wire, 
which acts on all the web-holders to hold them inward and prevent 
theii bemg thrown out by centrifugal force. 

The cams carried by the ring 124 are shown in Fig. 151, in which 



264 



JKNITTING 



247 




129 represents the double-ended cam for engaging the inner sides of 
the shoulders 126 for moving the web-holders outward during either 
direction of movement of the ring, and 130 represents the two cams 
also carried by the ring 124 for engaging the outer ends of the web- 
holders to retract them, aided by the action 
of the endless spring 128. Secured to the 
underside of the ring 124 are two blocks 
131, the positions of which are indicated 
by dotted lines in Fig. 151, and between 
which a striker 132 extends, the striker 
projecting from a standard 13 (see Fig. 
152) which rises from and rotates or 
oscillates with cam-ring 70. When cam- 
ring 70 is revolving continuously, the striker engages but one of 
the blocks 131; but when oscillating, the striker engages the two 
blocks alternately and reciprocates the ring. The space between 
the two blocks 131 corresponds somewhat with the space between the 
knitting-cams, and permits of the web-holders and needles remaining 
at rest while the picking-finger is changing its position. By pulling 
away the spring-band 128, either entirely or for portions at a time, the 
web-holders can be easily withdrawn and replaced by others, if desired; 
or those which are used most continuously 
may replace those which are less worn on 
the other side of the machine, and vice versa. 
The latch-guard ring 134 (see Figs. 151 
and 152) can be swung up out of the way 
whenever desired, as when placing a new cuff 
on the needles or to enable the needles to be 
more readily examined, without removing it 
from its support by the cam-ring 70. 

The yarn-changing devices are carried by the arm 135. The 
upper surface of the outer end of the arm 135 is formed with guideways 
(Fig. 151) for two slides 138 and 139, one having a yarn-guide eye 140 
at its inner end and a pin having a roller 141 at its outer end, and the 
other slide having a yarn-guide eye 142 at its inner end and a down- 
wardly projecting pin having a roller 143 at its outer end. Each slide 
is provided with a projecting arm 144, against which bear the ends of a 
lever 145. 




Fig. 160. 



866 



248 



KNITTING 




r36 



Lever 145 is pivoted to tne guard-ring arm between the two slides; 
and when one slide is pushed in, its arm pushes the other slide out. 
The inner ends of the slides each have a stop 146, to limit their out- 
ward moverpent. 

The curved web-guide 149 (see Fig. 151) is formed at the outer 
end of a spring-arm 150, secured to the arm 135 
back of the latch-ring, as indicated at 151 in Fig. 
152. A recess 152 is formed in the edge of the 
web-guide, having hooked ends to retain the 
yarn which is not being knitted in position for use 
again when the next change is made. 

Changing Yam. A plate 153 is secured to 
the bed 1 of the machine, and has a vertical sleeve- 
bearing 154 extending over and below the bed (see 
Fig. 148). This bearing is for a lift-rod 155, the 
lower end of which bears upon and is operated by a 
lever 156. To the upper end of the lift-rod is se- 
cured a sleeve 157, having an arm 158, carrying a 
block 159, to the upper and lower surfaces of which 
are secured plates having cam-shaped edges 
160. Cams 160 are so spaced that one or the 
other of the rollers of the yarn-changing slides will sweep between 
them when no change in the yarn is to be effected; when the yarn- 
guide slides are to be shifted, the lift-rod is acted upon l)y the lever to 
raise the block and bring the lower cam into the path of movement of 
the roller, which, moving over the edge of the cam, reverses the posi- 
tions of the guide-eyes. When the yarn-guides are to be shifted back 
again, the rod is lowered to position and changes the yarn. 

Changing Operation of the Picking-Finger. The block 113 
(Fig. 156) carrying the cams 112, is supported by an arm 162 project- 
ing from a sleeve 163 loosely mounted on the lift-rod. The guide-pin 
161 passes through the arm 162 to steady it, as well as the block 159. 
A pin 164 projecting from the arm 162, is engaged by a lug 165 carried 
by a spring 166, the upper end of which is secured to a lug 167 pro- 
jecting from the arm 158. The side of lug 165 is inclined, as 168; and 
below this incline the lower end of spring 166 is curved or inclined, as at 
169, under the end of a finger 170 fixed to the plate 153. The cams 
which act on the lift-rod impart two elevations to it for each narrowing 



Fig. 161. 



266 



KNITTING 



249 




Fig. 162. 



and widening operation, during which time the yarn is changed. The 
rirst Uft of the rod elevates the block and cams and changes the yarn as 
above described. At the same time, block 113 is elevated, and this 
orings the picking-finger into operation for narrowing. The timing 

of the operation of other parts is such that 
simultaneously the needles having the long 
heels are thrown out of action, and the ro- 
tary reciprocating motion of the knitting 
cams takes the place of the continuous 
motion. When the narrowing is com- 
pleted, the lift-rod is given a short ele- 
vation above the plane of the first, giving 
to the arm wdiat may be termed a "hitch." 
This is but momentary; but it serves to 
draw the curved lower end of the spring 
upward, over but not entirely above the 
end of the fixed finger, which pushes the spring outward sufficiently 
to carry the lug out from under the pin of the arm. The arm and its 
block and cams immediately drop, and cause the operation of the pick- 
ing-finger to begin restoring the needles for widening. The second 
elevation or hitch of the lift-rod is for this purpose only, and the posi- 
tion of the cams is not so changed as to shift the yarn-guides, for the 
same yarn is used in widening as in nar- 
rowing. Simultaneously, however, with the 
resumption of continuous rotary motion of 
the knitting cams, and the restoration of all 
the needles to positions of activity, the lift-rod 
descends to its normal position, and the up- 
per cam effects the change of the yarn to the 
color and quality preferred for the round- 
and- round work; and the inclined lower side 
of the lug rides down over the pin, the lug 
then snapping under it, ready for the next 

operation. The picking-finger is left turned upward; but, there 
being no needles with their heels in a plane to be engaged by the 
finger, the latter remains out of operation until the next change. 

The lift rod is secured to shaft 30 at the opposite end from belt- 
shipping disc 171, to which two sets of cams are attached (see Figs. 




Fig. 163. 



2tt7 



250 



KNITTING 



149, 150, and lG4j . To this disc are attached two similar ears 172, the 
operative surface.s of which are offset. 

The lever 156, which operates the lift-rod, is pivoted on shaft 26, 
and has its front l^eveled end 176 in the path of movement of cams 173 
and 175. Cam 173 imparts the first elevation to the lift-rod, while 
cam 175 gives it the second elevation or hitch before referred to, after 
which the end 176 of the lever passes to the short section of plate 172 
behind cam 175, and at the next advance of the disc it passes off the 
plate and to the position shown in Fig. 150. 

Connected with the lever, so as to oscillate therewith, is an arm 
177, having its end formed with two steps 178, 180, connected by an 
incline or cam 179 (see Fig. 150). A spring 181 secured to the bearing 




34- 



50 ^ 




Fig. 164. Cam Shaft. 

for lever 156 and arm 177, bears against a pin 182 projecting from the 
arm, and tends to hold the arm and lever in the position shown in 
Fig. 150, a stop 183, projecting from ring 76, serving to limit the move- 
ment of this lever and arm toward the left. 

The circular plate 95, which rises and falls to control the action 
of cams 90 and 97, is secured to a rod 184, which slides vertically 
through an opening in the cup-shaped bearing 4 (Fig. 154), and in a 
guide 185 carried by one of the bars 77. The lower end of slide-rod 
184 rests on upper end of arm 177, and, as the latter oscillates, passes 
from step 178 to step 180 over the incline 179 (Fig. 150) or vice versa. 
The action of these parts is so timed that the circular plate Is elevated 
to render inactive the needles having the long heels simultaneously 
with the first elevation of the lift-rod by cam 173, which causes the 
change of yarn and the commencement of operation of the picker- 
finger ; but when the lift -rod is given its second elevation or hitch by 



268 



KNITTING 



251 




Fig. 165. 



means of cam-lug 175, the step 178 simply moves slightly across the 
lower end of the slide-rod without affecting the elevation of the cir- 
cular plate. The disc carries also two segments 186, each having a 
cam-surface 187 at one end to act upon a block 188 carried by a lever 

189 pivoted at 190 to the frame of 
the machine and having a lug 191 
adapted to bear against the lower 
edge of the web-guide 75 when the 
latter is to be lifted to elevate the 
needle-cylinder. In order to adjust 
the amount of elevation that may 
be imparted to the web-holder and 
needle-cylinder by Jthe cams, the 
block 188 is adjustably connected 
with the lever 189. 

The needle-cylinder rests upon 
the shoulder 74 of the web-guide 
75 (see Fig. 154). The upper end of the latter is surrounded by the 
needle-cylinder, and the cylinder can be rotated upon its seat if not 
locked. A yielding lock for securing the needle-cylinder to the upper 
end of the web-guide is shown in Fig. 154, consisting of a spring-bar 
195, secured to the inner wall of the web-guide and having a wedge- 
shaped lug 196 at its upper end, wuI^h lug 
extends through an opening in the web- j25 

guide and into a tapered recess in the inner 
wall of the needle-cylinder. The upper 
end of the bar rests in a vertical groove 
in the inner wall of the web-guide, and 
the bar and its lug form a lock to prevent 
rotation of the needle-cylinder on the 
web-guide. Should a needle offer an ob- 
struction to the passage of a cam, or if for 
that or any other reason such an obstruc- 
tion is caused as might break a cam or 
break away the ribs of the cylinder be- Fig- IGG. 

tween the needles, the inclined side of the 

recess will act on the side of the lug and force it inward, thus un- 
locking the cylinder from its support and permitting it to rotate. 



127 
126 




V( 



20 



71 



124- 
123 



?W1 




260 



252 



KNITTING 



By loosening one screw and turning in the other, the bar is rocked on 
its lug as a fulcrum, and thus forces the other lug more or less into the 
recess of the needle-cylinder. 

The Process. The cuff a is placed on the needles by means of a 
transferrer, and circular knitting at h (Fig. 168) pro- 
ceeds to the point c. Then narrowing begins, and 
continues to the point d; and from there the knit- 
ting widens to the point e, when circular knitting is 
resumed to form the foot portion /. At g, narrowing 
again begins, and continues to the point h, whence 
it again widens to the point i, when, after knitting a few cours- 
es, the machine automatically stops. The operator then breaks 
off the yarn, and, by means of the crank 11, turns cam-ring 
70 one revolution forward, which disengages the needles from 
the stocking, so that it may be removed. He then moves the 
crank backward slightly, which, through the engagement of the 



108 

I09-eJJ3-I09 

106 

Fig. 167. 




Fig. 168. 

heels of the needles with the inner face of the block 85 last in opera- 
tion, forces the block out of operative position and permits the cam 83 
to raise the needles so that their upper ends will be on a level, in po- 
sition to receive another cuff. In other words, the needles are leveled 
in the upper knitting-path. After the stocking has been removed 
from the machine, the edges i and k are united in the usual manner. 



270 



KNITTING 253 



FANCY HOSIERY 

When it is desirable to reinforce stockings, particularly children's 
stockings, at several points — such as the heel, the toe and the knee — a 
second or thickening thread is introduced with the main" thread, the 
two being fed to the needles as one. If the same length of stitch be 
maintained in the thickened part as in the other part, the fabric is made 
closer, harder and less elastic. It is therefore desirable to lengthen the 
stitch at the points where the thickening occurs. A desirable method 
of introducing a reinforce just above the heel, is to throw out of opera- 
tion about one-fourth of the needles at the rear at this point; knit 
reciprocatingly on the remainder, raising a needle at each reciproca- 
tion until one-half the needles are out of operation; and then introduce 
a reinforcing thread and knit reciprocatingly on the needles originally 
out of operation, adding a needle at each reciprocation until about 
one-half are in operation. By this method, the junction line between 
the ordinary and the thickened portion extends diagonally upward. 

The well-known split-foot hosiery was originally produced upon a 
circular, independent-needle machine, the peculiarity of which lay 
in the fact that instead of forming the leg portion by rotary knitting, 
the cam cylinder was reciprocated throughout, being supplied on 
opposite sides with yarn-guides and knitting cams, each yarn-guide 
feeding yarns to, and each set of knitting cams acting upon, one-half 
the needles only. The result is that each yarn forms a course of 
stitches extending half-way around the stocking. Where these half- 
courses meet, at opposite sides, the stitches are interlooped. In this 
manner the back of the stocking may be of one color and the front of 
another, or the foot only may be of contrasting colors. In hosiery to 
be worn with low shoes, it is customary to make the lower part of the 
foot and the lower portion of the heel of one color, say white, and the 
upper part of the foot and the entire leg portion of a contrasting color. 
It is obvious that the half-courses of different colors may be interlooped 
in the same vertical. wale, or that they may be interlooped in different 
wales according to a predetermined pattern, as shown in the ac- 
companying illustration (Fig. 169). 

A split-foot stocking may be formed upon a circular machine, by 
feeding one of the threads to the needles in the usual manner, a little 
more than half-way around the needle-cylinder, and then drawir^^ it 
inward while passing the remainder of the needles. At a point a 



271 



254 



KNITTING 




Fig. 109. 



Pattern Effect with Con- 
trasting Colors. 



little in advance of that where the first thread is withdrawn, the second 
thread is introduced and is fed to those needles from which the first 
is withdrawn, and is itself withdrawn after being fed to one-half the 
needles. After the stocking is finished, it is necessary to clip out the 

float threads. A stocking knitted after 
this fashion may be produced more 
rapidly than by the method first de- 
scribed. 

In still another plan, by circular 
knitting, each course is knit as follows : 
One of'the threads — say the black 
thread — is fed first to the neediest and 
knitting therewith proceeds until a half- 
circle or thereabout, has been com- 
pleted and the point is reached where 
it is desired that a suture shall begin. 
The white thread is then introduced; 
and for a few needles — say two — both 
threads are knit simultaneously. Then 
the black thread is thrown out, and knitting proceeds with the white 
thread alone until the opposite suture begins. Then the black 
thread is again thrown in; and for two needles both threads are knit 
with simultaneously, as on the opposite side. The white thread is 
then thrown out, and knitting with the black thread alone proceeds, at 
which point the operation begins to repeat itself. The throwing in 
and throwing out of the threads must be accurately timed, so as to 
occur for each course between the same needles. In this way a suture 
is formed at each side by the interlapping threads, always on the same 
needles. When the thread is thrown out of the needles, it is allowed 
to float across the tube to the point where it is again thrown in. The 
number of needles forming the suture by simultaneous knitting with 
both threads may vary according to fancy. After the completion of 
the knitting of the stocking the float-threads are removed by being cut 
from the interior of the tube. The foot thus produced has its upper 
portion entirely knit from one thread, its lower portion entirely knit 
from another thread, and sutures at both sides knit with both threads, 
the courses thus formed in regular alternation being continuous, as in 
round-and-round knitting. Although. the two portions thus formed 



272 



KNITTING 255 



are not actually interknit, yet the suture formed by loops interlapping 
for the space of two loops is equally strong, and cannot be opened 
except by breaking the threads. 

An imitation split-foot stocking has been produced by knitting 
the stocking from yarns of one color, preferably white or undyed, then 
enclosing that portion of the foot that is to retain its original color, 
in a clamp that will exclude moisture, and finally subjecting the stock- 
ing so protected, to a dye, the result being that the leg portion and 
upper portion of the foot are given a color contrasting with that of the 
sole of the foot. In a stocking carefully treated in this manner, the 
line of the dye will follow the edge of the clamp very exactly, and an 
excellent imitation of the real split foot stocking is produced. 

A very pleasing color effect for hosiery is shown in the accom- 
panying illustrations (Fig. 170). The first of these shows a piece of 
ordinary knitting, all except two of the horizontal courses of which are 
knit with white threads. Two courses (lettered a and b) are knit 
v/ith black thread. Between these two black courses are four white 
courses c c'c c. If the entire piece of fabric had been plain knitting, 
it would therefore exhibit nothing but two black horizontal stripes 
on a white ground. Instead of this, at two points, loops d d, belonging 
to course a, have been drawn forward, so as to project longitudinally 
ahead of their fellow loops of the same course and into the territory of 
the succeeding white courses c c. Furthermore, the interknit loops / / 
of the course b, by which this forward projection of the loops d d is 
effected, are themselves drawn back behind their fellow loops by the 
tension of the loops d d, so that there is produced along the same 
longitudinal series of loops a forward projection of the black stripe, a 
and a backward projection of the black stripe b; and by the meeting 
of these two projections, the effect produced to the eye is that of a 
longitudinal line or stripe joining the two horizontal stripes. 

The projected loops d d are ten stitches apart. To effect this, 
every tenth needle of the machine must be so operated that, after 
receiving the loops of the black course a, it shall be prevented from 
knitting during the knitting of the four succeeding courses c c c c. 
This may be accomplished by preventing these needles, during the 
knitting of these four courses, from rising far enough to throw the 
loops of the black course below their latches, and returning them into 
line with the rest of the needles at a point either above or below the 



273 



256 



KNITTING 



feeding-level. This fabric has been made by throwing them iil at a 
point above the feeding-level. Consequently the threads c c c c of 
the four succeeding courses have all been laid in the hooks of the 
inactive needles without being interknit with each other. When the 
work has progressed as far as the course b, these needles are again 
thrown into ordinary action, and, having taken within their hooks the 




Fig. 170. Interknit Loops for Color Effect. 

loops / / from thread b when drawn down by the knitting-cams, shed 
simultaneously loops d d and the four unknit white threads over their 
backs, thus interlooping all five threads with the loops / /. Thereafter 
these needles continue to knit, as do their fellows, and plain knitting 
is produced, until it is desired to again reproduce the pattern, when 
the operation repeats itself. 

If, instead of throwing these needles in at a point above the feed- 
ing-level, they had been thrown in at a point below the feeding-level, 
the action and resulting fabric would have been the same, except that 
threads c c c c would not have taken within the hooks of these needles, 
and consequently, instead of being interlooped with loops / /, these 
four threads would pass across straight behind loops / / and b b. The 
resulting fabric is shown in the lower illustration. Fig 170. 



874 



KNITTING 



257 



STOCKINGS WITH OPEN OR LACE WORK 

In the accompanying illustration (Fig. 171) is shown a seamless 
hose or stocking knitted in one continuous operation, upon a circular 
knitting machine, and having its front ornamented with one or more 
sections of lace work extending from the upper part of the leg, over 
the instep and onto the foot. The 
rear portion of the leg, the entire 
heel portion, the back or sole 
portion of the foot, and the entire 
toe portion, are all made of plain, 
regularly-knit fabric^ The front 
of the stocking, extending along 
the leg and over the instep, is 
formed of sections of plain, reg- 
ularly-knit fabric interposed be- 
tween other sections of open or 
lace work united to the plain sec- 
tions and knit therewith. In the 
operation of knitting, the thread, 
as it leaves the plainly-knitted 
portion of the stocking, crosses a 
space of from three to five plain 
stitches or loops in a crossing- 
thread or loop, when it is again 
knitted in the regular manner for 
a single stitch. Then again it is 
made to form another crossing- 
loop or thread ; and so on until a 
lace section is completed. A 
plain intervening section is then 
knitted in the usual manner; then another series of open-work spaces; 
and so on until the entire number of lace and plain sections are com- 
pleted. This method is followed for three courses, when the thread, 
instead of being formed into the cross-thread, is midway of its length 
made to form the long, loose loop in each of the open-work spaces. 
This operation is carried on throughout the entire portion of the leg, 
instep, and foot, which it is desired to provide with the lace-work. 




Fig. 171 Seamless Open Mesh Work 
Stocking. 



275 



258 



KNITTING 



The entire stocking is thus formed of plain, seamless, knitted, tubular 
fabric, in which the leg, instep, and foot portions are provided with 
alternate sections of plain and open or lace work knitted together. 

An ordinary plain portion is formed at the back or rear of the 
leg, and is continued in the heel, the bottom of the foot, and in the 
toe portions of the stocking. 

A stocking having sections of lace work alternating with sections 

of plain knitting around the entire leg, 
such as here shown (Fig. 172), may be 
made as follows: 

Starting at the plain section, the 
thread forms a straight cross-thread e 
to the next plain section, crossing the 
space of one or more plain loops. A 
given number of plain loops are then 
made. The thread then makes a fur- 
ther cross-thread to the next section of 
plain knitting; and so on entirely 
around the leg of the stocking. On 
the next round, the cross-thread c^ is 
made in like manner. On the third 
round, the cross-thread e^ is made in 
the same manner. On the fourth 
round, the cross-thread is drawn down 
over the three cross-threads e c' e^, 
forming the elongated loop d, as is 
well understood in the knitting of tuck 
fabrics. This is continued to the point 
where the heel is knitted of plain loops. 
After the formation of the heel the 
knitting is continued, forming the bottom of plain loops and the top 
of the ornamental courses and plain sections, until the point z is 
reached, at wdiich point a number of plain-knitted courses are formed 
entirely around the stocking. The toe is then completed with plain 
loops. 

This stocking may be made of one continuous thread, or it may be 
made by knitting the heel and toe of one thread and the remaining 
portions of the stocking from another thread, or it may be made by 




Fig. 173. Making a Lace Work 
StOL-kiuic. 



276 



KNITTING 



259 



forming the heel and toe of one thread and the other portions of the 
stocking knitted from two, three, or four other threads, as the operator 
may prefer. The stocking may be knitted upon a machine con- 
structed in the well-known manner to produce tuck-knitting, pro- 
vision being made for causing the needles of the front and back por- 
tions of the stocking to be thrown separately into operation to knit tuck 
or plain knitting, as desired. 

Another method of ornamenting a stocking upon both front and 
back, is as follows: The lace-work upon the front is produced in such 
manner that where a lace-work stripe is to be made, a needle is omitted 



Presses' 



/arn /"or neiV 
course 




Fig. 173. Position of Loops. Needles, Jack-Siukers, and Presser Bar 
Taking the Thread. 

from either side of an intermediate needle, which needle is operated to 
tuck or retain its loops for several courses. Two needles may even 
be omitted from either side of the intermediate needle. It is apparent 
that the actual omission of needles from that portion of the machine 
which forms the back of the leg would prevent the proper formation of 
the heel and toe pockets, and the sole of the foot. 

In producing this effect, the following disposition of needles is 
made — an omitted needle, a tuck-needle, an omitted needle, a plain 
needle, an omitted needle, a tuck-needle, and an. omitted needle. 
Here the tuck-needles knit two and tuck two. The ornamentation 



277 



260 



KNITTING 




Fig. 174. Sinker Mea.sur 
ing off New Loops. 



down the back of the leg is not so open as the real lace work upon the 
front of the stocking, and may be described as "imitation lacework." 
It is produced by two tuck-needles separated by a single plain needle 
and without any omitted needles. 

In forming this stocking, all of these tuck-needles throughout 
the knitting of the tubular portion of the leg, knit for two courses 
and then tuck for two courses; and so on in reg- 
ular alternation, so that the mechanism for spe- 
cially operating the tuck-needles is in continuous 
operation during the entire knitting of this 
portion of the stocking. Upon reaching that 
point in the operation of the knitting of the 
stocking when the formation of the heel upon 
the rear fashioning set begins, the mechanism 
for specially operating the tuck-needles is thrown entirely out of 
operation; so that, throughout the process of narrowing and widen- 
ing, the tuck-needles operate as do all the others, thus producing 
a heel of ordinary plain knitting. Upon reaching the point of 
operation at which the formation of the foot begins, the mechanism 
for specially operating the tuck-needles is in operation during that half 
of each course of round-and-round 
knitting which corresponds to the upper 
half of the instep; but it is out of opera- 
tion during the remainder of each 
course. Thus the sole of the foot is 
knit of plain knitting, all of the tuck- 
needles that occupy the portion of the 
needle-cylinder with which this part of 
the stocking is made being operated as ordinary needles; while, on the 
other hand, the top of the instep is knit with longitudinal stripes 
corresponding to the frcnt of the leg. Upon reaching the point of 
operation at which the knitting of the toe-pocket begins, the tuck 
mechanism is again thrown altogether out of operation, and the toe- 
pocket knit, as usual, upon the rear fashioning set, all the needles 
knitting in the ordinary way. 

It is obvious that the limitations which are imposed upon the 
ornamentation by lace-work of stockings produced upon circular 
machines by a continuous operation, do not exist in the formation of 




Fig. 175. 



Sinking into Hooks of 

Needles. 



278 



KNITTING 



261 




stockings upon the straight-bar machine or stocking frame, for in such 
machine a transfer point may be provided for any needle, and the loops 
may be transferred to produce the greatest variety of ornamental or 
lace work. 

STRAIGHT HOSIERY FRAMES 

In the old, straight machines, the thread, guided by a tubular 
carrier, was traversed along the needles, after which a row of jack- 
sinkers, one acting on the thread (see Figs. 
173, 174, 175, 176 and 177) in each inter- 
stice between the needles, was caused to 
move down to draw the thread into loops, 
the last row of loops knit meanwhile hang- 
ing from the shanks of the needles be- 
hind the new course of thread. The new 
loops were then carried into the needle- 
hooks by the motion of the jack-sinkers or 
of the needle-bar; the old loops were held 
from moving with the needle, or moved 

on toward the needle-head, by the jack- Lauding cm Loop on Barbs, 
sinkers contracting with the previous fabric; while the presser-bar, 
acting on the needle-barb, closed it so that it passed through the 

old loop, carrying the new loop 
with it. Thus the new loop 
remained on the shank of the 
needle, and the same cycle of 
movement was repeated. 

The old, straight hand 
frames of William Lee's system 
were built with a seat which 
was conveniently placed so 
that the operator might have 
free use of both feet as well as 
both hands, such frames re- 
quiring all four to operate. The seat was a part of the framework of 
of the machine. When the rotary shafts were applied, the seat part of 
the framework was done away with. The rotary crank-shaft was con- 
nected by means of wheels or belts with the main shaft, on which were 



Fig. 176. Bai-bs Pressed: Sinker 



Old loop 




Pig. 177. Presser Bar Retired; Old Loop 

Knocked Over Head of Needle, Sinker 

Returns to Position 173. 



279 



262 KNITTING 



cams and levers connected to the slur-cocks, sinkers, pressers, etc., 
whereby they were actuated in the proper time and order to perform 
their functions. This rotary shaft had its bearings so located that it 
was in convenient position for the operator to turn as he stood in front 
of the frame, the shaft being made with two (sometimes more) cranks, 
similar to the rotary crank-shaft of the present flat-rib machine. 
When the change was made, they were called rotary frames, probably 
to distinguish them from the old hand frames; possibly the hand 
frames were simply called knitting frames up to that time. After 
development of the rotary shaft frame, it seems but an easy step to 
extend the shaft and secure a pulley on it to be driven by a belt trans- 
mitting horse- or water-power. This straight rotary spring needle 
frame has been improved upon at different periods, by various parties, 
until what is known to-day (1906) as "Cotton's" system has developed. 

The first circular machine on record seems to have been the one 
described in the British patent in 1816 granted to the celebrated 
engineer, Mark Brunei, which invention he obtained from some un- 
known source in France. In this machine the needles were placed 
radially on a circular plate, with mechanism to feed the thread ar- 
ranged to rotate about the circle. This arrangement made a con- 
tinuous seamless tube of fabric at a greatly increased speed. This 
was the first circular machine. The spring needles were soon placed 
in a belt around an open cylinder, in a more convenient arrangement. 

Thus the term circular has been used to designate this type of 
machine whether the needles were spring or latch, radiating inward 
or outward or both, or Whether they were positioned vertically, with 
needle cylinder or cam cylinder revolving with or without dial needles. 
So, too, has the term rotary been used to designate that type of 
straight machine which includes rotary shafts. The term frame or 
machine is, to-day, simply a matter of choice, in either case. 

THE "COTTON" TYPE 

Fine hosiery — that is, fine in the smallness of mesh and of yarn 
and in perfection of shaping of the flat' blanks — is knit almost ex- 
clusively upon flat-bed machines of the "Cotton" type. 

These machines are fully automatic in their operation, a single 
controlling and pattern mechanism serving to operate simultaneously 
as many as twenty-four like knitting-beds, each of which makes the 



880 



KNITTING 263 



shaped web for a stocking. The needle-beds move in these machines 
in a path having two (Hmensions; the presser-bar may be fixed, and 
the sinkers have only a vertical motion. This is ingeniously given by a 
cam traversing with the thread-guide and a lever attached to or in- 
tegral with the sinker, which so multiplies the slope of the "wave" of 
depressed sinkers as to carry each one to the limit of its motion before 
its neighb"^' has started to move, avoiding abrasion and strain on the 
yarn. 

The motions of the machine for knitting, and while transferring 
the group of end stitches, are very different; they are controlled 
respectively by two distinct sets of cams on the main shaft of the 
machine, which shaft is moved endwise at the proper time to accom- 
plish the change. 

Fashioning, narrowing and widening the knit web is done on 
these machines by transferring the loops from several of the edge 
needles in use on to a separate instrument, moving them one or two 
needle-spaces in or out, and then replacing these loops on the needles. 

In knitting a so-called "full-fashioned" stocking it is customary 
to commence the knitting at the widest portion of the leg, the knitting 
being performed on flat machines having spring-beard needles, and 
the strip being knitted of a uniform width until the calf portion is 
reached, whereupon the strip is narrowed by the transferring of stitches 
from the end needles on both sides of the machine toward the center of 
the fabric, until the fabric has been sufficiently narrowed for the 
ankle portion of the stocking, the latter being then knitted of uniform 
width until the formation of the heel is necessary. 

At this juncture two yarn-guides are thrown into action, one 
employed for knitting a projecting heel-piece at one side of the ankle- 
web, and the other for knitting a corresponding heel-piece at the 
opposite side of the ankle web, the intervening needles of the machine 
having the stitches cast from them. The heel-strips are knitted of 
uniform width down to the point where the rounding of the heel is to be 
effected, whereupon each of the strips is narrowed to the desired ex- 
tent by transferring stitches from needle to needle in the same manner 
as when narrowing for the calf portion of the stocking. 

When the knitting of tlie heel-strips has been completed, they are 
cast from the needles; ana the selvaged inner edges of the heel -strips 
are run upon the outermost needles of a separate machine known as 



S81 



264 



KNITTING 



a footing machine, the intermediate needles of this machine receiving 
the loops around the instep portion of the leg-web which were thrown 
from the needles of the leg-machine when the formation of the heel- 
strips was begun. 

The foot-web is then knitted upon the needles of the second 




Fig. 178. Diagrammatic View of Textile Machine Work's Footer. 

machine, the web being narrowed at each side to form the desired 
instep-gussets, and being also narrowed at the toe, so as to properly 
round the same. 



282 




2 w 



W 2 
^ O 

fa H 

w o d 
5 ;z H 

K O ^ 
^ H o 

s d - 

s 2 o 

IT 

Z Q 

!** z 
u 

I« 

o 

K 



KNITTING 265 



This method of manufacture necessitates sewing or seaming 
operations to complete the stocking, because, as the stocking-blank 
is knitted in the form of a flat web, it is necessary to unite the edges 
of this web by a seam extending down the back of the leg, calf, ankle^ 
and heel, and by another seam extending under the bottom of the toe, 
foot, and heel. 

Generally speaking, the advantages of a full-fashioned stocking 
over the product of a circular machine, consist in the fact that the 
former is shaped or "fashioned" in such a way that the fabric is 
narrowed by the dropping of stitches to suit the contours of the leg 
and foot, and to insure a perfectly fitting stocking. Another ad- 
vantage of a full-fashioned stocking is that it is made with spring 
needles, which leave the yarn its full amount of elasticity, as it is 
subjected to very little strain during the operation of knitting. This 
results in a fabric of great elasticity, such as is not produced on a 
seamless machine using latch-needles, even though the same number of 
needles per inch be employed. 

In addition to these points of superiority of the full-fashioned 
stockings resulting from the method of making, the construction of the 
machine and the accessibility of the co-operating elements permit 
of producing effects of design or ornamentation which it is impossible 
to produce by circular knitting. 

The underlying principles of machines of this system are pointed 
out in detail with reference to the illustrations of the machine built 
by the Textile Machine Works at Reading, Pa. The formation of the 
loops is produced in the following manner: 

The needles shown at 1 (Figs. 178 and 179) are clamped in the 
needle bars shown at lA, and stand in a vertical position. Instead 
of the former method of casting needles into leads, they are securely 
held in position by slots being milled in brass bars and holes drilled 
through these bars, whereby the end of the needle shank is held, this 
end being bent at right angles to the length of the needle. These 
brass bars are securely fastened against steel needle-bars. The steel 
needle-bars form independent sections, generally of a length to make 
two stockings. Clamping plates three inches in length are used to 
hold these needles securely in place; and in the latest construction 
these plates are so arranged that they can be loosened by unscrewing 
a bolt from the front of the machine whenever it becomes necessary 



283 



266 KNITTING 



to replace a broken needle. This is found to be a great convenience, 
as the replacing of a needle can be done very quickly. 

The loops are formed by sinkers, of which there are as many 
as there are needles. Each sinker is placed in the center between 
two needles. Two kinds of sinkers are used, termed jack-sinkers and 
dividers. The jack-sinker is reinforced at the rectangular rear end 
by steel plates, to provide a better and more durable surface for the 
"jacks" to strike against. There is always one jack-sinker alternating 
with a divider. The jack-sinkers form a loop over every two needles 
and the dividers divide the same, to give an equal loop to each needle. 
Sinkers and dividers have projections at their front end, which are 
termed, 7iih and nose. The nib is used for forming the loop, while 
the nose separates the new loop from the old one during its formation 
and until it has been drawn through the old loop. 

The sinkers have an independent motion, which is given them by 
the jacks, of which there is one to each sinker. The dividers are 
moved forward by the catch-bar, which is so shaped as to control 
also the backward movement of the sinkers. The catch-bar extends 
across the whole width of the machine, and is supported by the catch- 
bar arms, which, at their opposite ends, are connected to other arms 
attached to the rocking shaft C B4 (Fig. 178), which shaft receives its 
rocking motion by levers F extending to the main shaft and carrying a 
roller at their lower end, which is acted upon by the catch-bar cam. 

The movements of these various parts to form a row or course of 
knitted loops, are as follows: The needles stand with their beards 
above the tops of the sinkers, while the nose of sinkers and divider 
protrude between them. The thread-carrier lays a thread in front 
of the nib of the sinker, and behind the needle shanks. The sinkers, 
having an individual movement, as explained, are each brought for- 
ward, one after the other, by the jacks, which are pressed against the 
back of them by the "slur-cock" as it travels across each division of 
needles. By this movement, each sinker forms a loop between alter- 
nate needles. When these are completed, the dividers are brought 
forward all together by means of the catch-bar to form a loop between 
those needles that had no loops formed for them by the sinkers. In 
order to provide thread for the dividers, the needles all move back 
nearer the sinker-nib, freeing part of these loops to be taken by the 
dividers, and so forming a series of loops around each needle-shank, 



284 



KNITTING 



267 



all of which should be of uniform size. The needles then descend to 
such a distance that the new loop passes under the needle-beards; 
and the needles are moved toward a fixed presser-bar to close the 
beards; so that, as the needle-bar descends still farther, the point of 
each beard shall enter the old loops, being landed on top of the needle- 
beards, and, finally, in a further descent of the needles, being knocked 
over the head of the needles by the knocking-over bits, the sinkers and 
dividers in the meantime retiring to give a free passage to the old loop 




Fig. 179. Narrowing Mechanism, Raising Device, and •'Diamond Point" Meclianism. 

as it goes over the new one. The whole row" of old loops being 
over, the needles commence to rise, the sinkers and dividers coming 
forward above the loops to hold them down in position, ready for 
the making of the next row of new loops, which are commenced as 
soon as the needles have reached their normal position again. 

Fig. 178 shows a diagrammatic sectional view of a Footer; and 
while it shows plainly the well-designed, mechanical construction 



285 



268 



KNITTING 



and the strong proportions of the machine, some of the new details 
of improved construction are shown in the other illustrations. 

Fig. 179 illustrates a veiy convenient improvement for raising 
the narrowing mechanism; also an improved mechanism for pro- 
ducing the diamond point at the toe of the foot of a full-fashioned 
stocking. 

The raising and lowering of the whole narrowing mechanism 
is conveniently effected, and the narrowing machine is rigidly held in 
the raised position by employing a lever 34, fixed to the shaft 12, and 
pivot ally connected to a rod 23, which in turn is pivotally attached 
at its upper end to the shaft 24 of the narrowing mechanism, in con- 




Fig. 180. Needle Bar Micrometer Adjustment. 

nection with a hand mechanism for operating lever 21, comprising a 
bell-crank 25, 26, loosely mounted on the shaft 12, and having its 
short arm connected by a pivoted rod 27 to an arm 28 on shaft 29. 
The turning of the latter by the swinging of the bell-crank arm 26 
upward to its dotted position against the stop 30, causes the end 31 of 
arm 32 on shaft 29 to swing forward to its dotted position indicated, 
thereby raising and holding rigidly in place the entire narrowing 
machine. 

This is very convenient for .straightening the needles or putting 
new ones in the machine in place of broken ones. In order to pro- 
duce the "diamond-points," the guard-blades 10 are employed, which 
are swung toward the fashioning points 2, and press against some of 
these points, preventing them from engaging with the corresponding 
needles and the picking of the loops from such needles in the operation 
of footing. The movement of the guards 10 into and out of contact 
position with the fashioning points 2, is effected automatically during 
the operation of the machine by means of levers 11 and connected 
mechani.sm as follows: 

The lever 11 is pivoted at one end to a shaft 12, and is provided 



286 



KNITTING 



269 



intermediate of its length with a roller 13, which bears normally upon 
the concentric periphery 14 of a disc fixed to the rotary shaft 15, upon 
which the lever is thus supported without movement; but when the 
shaft 15 is moved longitudinally during the narrowing operation, the 
bearing of roller 13 is transferred from the concentric disc to an eccen- 
tric periphery 16, which raises the pivoted lever 11. Pivotally con- 




Fig. 181 Draw-Cam Shaft, Bearing, and Brake, 

nected to the free end of the lever IL is a rod 17, the upper end 18 of 
which is engaged so as to slide in a sleeve 20, which in turn is pivotally 
connected at 21 to an arm 22 fixed to the shaft 8. The free movement 
of the rod-end 18 in said sleeve is limited by a shoulder or stop 19. 
which comes in contact with said sleeve before the lever 11 is fully 
raised, and raises it, so as to turn the shaft G and swing the guards 10 
outward, as indicated by the dotted lines. 

Fig. 180 illustrates a very important improvement, which allows 



887 



270 



KNITTING 



of a micrometer adjustment of the needle-bars. It is very important 
that the needles should always be in exact co-operating position with 
the sinkers; and it will readily be understood by referring to the 
illustration, that the double bolt and jam-nut of this double-armed 
needle-bar crank furnish accurate means for doing; this. 

Figs. 181 and 182 show an improved bearing for the draw-cam 
shaft, and an improved brake for arresting the movement of the draw- 
cam shaft as soon as the longitudinal movement of the main cam- 




Fig. 183. Draw-Cam Shaft Brake, 
shaft takes place— in other words, as soon as the machine commences 
to narrow. In nearly all other machines this stopping of the draw- 
.cam shaft is done by a key pushing in betw^een the teeth of the bevel 
gear on the cam-shaft. This improved brake works with a steel band, 
leather lined, adjustably secured, and tightens as soon as shaft B is 
longitudinally moved (see 8, 14, 11, 12, and 13). The construction 
of bearing 1 not only forms a substantial one-piece bearing for the 
draw-cam, but at the same time bridges and braces transversely the 
entire machine, by being bolted to beam A in the rear and beam A* in 
the front part of the machine. 



288 



KNITTING 271 



LACE EFFECTS AND OPEN MESH WORK 

The high perfection of the Cotton type of flat-bed knitting ma- 
chine, has enabled these machines to compete successfully in the 
manufacture of ornamental high-grade open-work products— stock- 
ings, of course, being the chief output in this line. Such machines 
can be used very successfully for producing fabrics of great variety in 
design, with any perforated patterning that may be desired, and with- 
out changing anything m the machine that would prevent its being 
easily restored to the making of hosiery. The slowness of operation 
in these machines is more than compensated for by their ability to 
turn out simultaneously a number of fashioned blanks suitable for the 
finest grades of underwear, while at the same time making any pat- 
tern of open-mesh work m the fabric that can be formed of tuck-work, 
transferred stitches, or dropped stitches. The following is a detailed 
description of such a machine equipped for the production of open- 
mesh fabric wherein loops are transferred from one needle to the adja- 
cent one by a transfer point (see Fig. 183). Of course the pattern 
shown in Diagram H may have the open spaces X at much more 
frequent intervals. 

The lace-needles are represented at 1, the stop-needles at 2, and 
the knitting-needles at 3. The needles 3 are provided in larger 
numbers than the others, and form a connected row, while the lace- 
needles 1 and the stop-needles 2 are comparatively few in number, and 
■ stand in smaller groups of two or three, according to the nature of the 
open-work pattern to be produced. The lace-needles 1 are secured 
in the lace-point bar 4, while the knitting-needles 3 are secured in the 
needle-bar 15. The lace-point bar 4 is suspended from the shaft 17 
through the medium of the arm 16; and these parts 1, 4, 16, and 17 
may be called the open-work attachment. 

The narrowing-needles 6 are secured in the smaller needle-bars 
7 and 8. All the needle-bars 7 are rigidly connected to the bar 9, and 
all needle-bars 8 to the bar 10. These enumerated parts 6, 7, 8, 9, 
and 10 are mounted upon the shaft 11, through the medium of the 
lever 5, and may be designated as the fashioning or narrowing attach- 
ment. The sinkers 12 in their operation are moved to and fro horizon- 
tally. The knocking-over bits 18 remain fixedly in their place. 

Diagram B shows the positions of the parts at the moment when 
the knitting-needles 3 have reached the highest point in their move- 



289 



272 



KNITTING 




/ / 2' I 3' / 3' 3 I 3' 3' 3 / 3'r 3 





Fig. 183. transferring Loops, by Transfer Point, to Produce Open-Mesh Fabric. 



290 



KNITTING ' 273 



ment, the web 19 hanging on the knitting-needles, the sinkers 12 being 
projected, and the lace-needles 1 being about to lay their grooves 
upcn the knitting-needles. In Diagram C the lace-needles have so laid 
themselves upon the knitting-needles 3 that their points P have entered 
the grooves 3^ (Diagram G), and the beard 3^ is entirely covered by the 
groove V (Diagram G). Thus tightly closed together, the two 
needles move downward through the loops. The loops resting upon 
the jack 18 are stripped from the knitting-needles 3 and shoved upon 
the lace-needles 1. This series of steps in the formation of the loops 
takes place only where the lace-needles 1 are located in the lace-point 
bar 4. Those knitting-needles 3 which are not covered by lace-needles 
1, retain their loops and produce a smooth web. 

Diagram D shows the next succeeding moment of the needle 
operation. Web 19 no longer hangs upon the knitting-needles 3, 
but has now been fully pushed upon the lace-needles 1. The lace- 
needles 1 now begin to elevate themselves from the knitting-needles 3. 
In Diagram E both needles 1 and 3 have moved upward; the web 19 
has been carried upward with them; and while this was taking place, 
the lace-needle 1 has with them raised itself from the knitting-needle. 
In this elevated position of the needles, the shaft 17, together with all 
the parts mounted upon it — being one or two needles, according to the 
pattern of the goods — is moved to the left or right. Upon shaft 17 is 
secured the lace-point bar 4, and the needles 1. Since upon each 
lace-needle 1 a loop hangs (Diagram E), these loops wall be taken 
laterally a distance of one or two needles; and at this point the knitting- 
needles 3 (Diagram E), move into the dotted position, so that the 
loop can be transferred from the needles 1 to the needles 3. This may 
be clearly seen in Diagram H, W'here a number of knitting-needles 3 
are shown from above in horizontal section. The knitting-needles 3 
are hung with loops, excepting the needles 3°, which are cleared in con- 
sequence of the lace-needles 1 having taken the loops from them and 
covered them by the neighboring needles 3^ as illustrated in Diagram 
E. 

In Diagram F both of the needles 1 and 3 now move again down- 
ward. The w^eb 19, which was elevated in Diagram E, has been taken 
downwardly in Diagram F, and again rests in the position which it 
assumed in Diagrams B. C, and D upon the knocking-over bits 18. 
The sinkers 12 uow move forward horizontally and secure the web 19 



391 



274 



KNITTING 



so that it is confined between the knocking-over bits 18 and the beaks 
12' of the sinkers. If now the needles 1 and 3, covered the one by the 




other, move upward in common, the loops are pushed from the needles 
1, and slide among the needles 3 again. The lace-needles 1 are now 



292 



KNITTING 



275 



free, and again separated from the knitting-needles 3 The parts 
have now again reached a position similar to that shown in Diagram B. 

By the proceedings as out- 
lined with reference to Diagram 
B to F, beautiful open-work pat- 
terns may be produced. Diagram 
H is not given as a sample of a 
very artistic production; it is de- 
signed simply to show how a pro- 
gressive series of openings x 
may be produced. If the three 
lace-needles 1 in Diagram H are 
brought into operation, there 
would be produced not simply the 
single row of openings x in 
the middle of the web, but two 
lateral rows of openings x^ 
and x^. The ornamenta- 
tion of the pattern and the 
variegation thereof can be ac- 
complished to a very much 
greater extent by interrupting 
one or more of the lace-needles 
1 for the production of openings 
X at will. It is also practic- 
able to omit openings and intro- 
duce plain work, just as often as 
may be desired, along the lines 

X' 2.nA XK If in Diagram ^^^^ ^''- Ladies' FuU-FasWoned stocking. 

H it should be desired to introduce a row of openings at 3° 3° 3°, 
this can likewise be accomplished by simply omitting all of lace- 
needles 111. 

Fig, 185 shows a ladies' full-fashioned stocking of mercerized 
thread made on a 39 gg. (gauge) or 26 needles to the inch Schubert 
& Salzer machine. It has spliced garter top, heel, sole, and toe, 
and is narrowed in the leg, heel, instep, and toe. 




393 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING AND 
FINISHING MACHINES 



One of the marked characteristics of the time is the increased 
demand for ready-made garments. The first demand for this grade 
of clothing seems to have been by sailors fitting out in New Bedford 
for long whaling voyages. So many men going out of port at one 
season of the year influenced an enterprising store-keeper to have a 
lot of clothing made up ready for the rush. This was before the 
sewing machine was invented; and the clothing, though far from 
stylish, was comfortable and durable. 

From this small beginning came the enormous clothing industry 
of today, with its many branches, including men's clothing, ladies' 
clothing, muslin underwear, children's dresses, skirts, shirtwaists, 
infant wear, knitted underwear, etc. Before the sewing machine 
came into use, the clothing industry was being rapidly developed, 
and this undoubtedly served, in a large degree, to spur on the in- 
ventors to produce a sewing machine. 

The growth of the industry has been marvelous. It is, and 
always has been, a great incentive to the sewing machine manu- 
facturers to exert their inventive faculties, and in this large special 
field, a profitable market is found. Large and profitable concerns 
have been developed in the ready-made garment industry because 
the manufacture of garments in large lots makes it possible to offer 
them at prices that command attention and in better style than those 
turned out by the average tailor or seamstress. 

The knitted underwear branch of the clothing industry early 
saw the advantage of concentrating its help under one roof and under 
the skill and guidance of experts, and they, quicker than any other 
branch, also saw the great advantages of special machines. As a 
result they have today the best equipped factories in the ready-made 
garment business. Almost every operation, in fact every operation, 
has a special machine designed and adapted to perform that part 
of the work. It is an unusual thing for an operator to make a gar- 



295 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



ment complete in a knitted underwear factory. After leaving the 
cutter in bundles of one dozen each, they pass successively through 
different operators' hands for almost every operation. 

KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

Since the manufacturer of knit goods has undertaken to pro- 
mote his sales by direct personal solicitation, the details of finishing 
have become almost innumerable. When knit goods were marketed 
chiefly by the commission houses it w^as customary to sell the goods 
as the sample was made up, but when the manufacturer, to close his 
sales, sought to do a little better than his competitor and offered to 
"cat-stitch", to put on Prussian binding, or four buttons instead of 
three, or pearl buttons instead of bar, or a ribtail instead of hem, or 
collarette instead of binding, or stitched with silk, or one quality of 
golloons here, and another quality of buttons — cloth, bar, ivory, 
bone, shell or pearl — single stitched, two needle stitched, or three 
rows of stitches, or some of the innumerable catch features adaptable 
to the finishing of underwear, he built up for himself and for the 
entire trade an interminable number of styles to perplex himself 
as well as his help and retard production; because this or that lot 
must be marked 88AB21 or Xo 225, or with some other hieroglyphic 
equally difficult to keep run of, and sort out. 

We will take under consideration the more important processes, 
leaving the more stylish designs to be acquired after due experience. 

Between the first attempts to produce factory-made underwear 
and the many fine examples of the art before us on every hand at 
the present day, is a goodly joiu'ney, and to one who has been a priv- 
ileged observer of even a part of the necessary changes, both mechan- 
ical and artistic, which have followed one after another during this 
period, the transformation is of vast interest. 

.From an artistic standpoint, and in a peculiar sense, much of 
the credit for the excellence of our present-day underwear must be 
given to the garment designer. This person is never satisfied with 
a new design or effect if another suggests itself which seems better; 
and if mechanical difficulties prohibit its adoption, they are but a 
spur or incentive for the inventor, and are looked upon as things 
to be overcome. The cares and designs of the garment maker, or 
originator, however, are of a different nature from the foregoing, 



;296 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



in that there is never any surety that the particular style of finish 
or cut of a garment, which is finally worked out with such exceed- 
ing care, will remain in vogue longer than one season at the most. 

Fabric. These most useful and necessary garments are today 
made in an almost inconceivable number of styles, and in as many 
different qualities. There also seems to be no end to the different 
kinds of fiber which may be used one way or another in their fabri- 
cation. Silk, wool, cotton, ramie, mohair, camel hair, flax, etc., 
are all adaptable in some form or other, or in various combinations, 
so that we are able to select garments that are not only perfectly 
adapted to meet our requirements of warmth for the winter season, 
or cool comfort in the warmer months, but every grade shows re- 
markable taste as to finish and texture of the fabric itself. 

Yarn. In making the yarn for this peculiar elastic fabric, we 
have recourse to all of the various fibers which are used in woven 
fabrics, but differing from the latter, a knitting yarn must be smoother 
and more even. If these requirements are complied with, the knit- 
ting process is much faster than weaving, and consequently a greater 
quantity of knitted cloth can be made at the same cost, than of a 
woven fabric of equal quality. For this reason, and because of the 
elastic nature of a knitted fabric, it is especially suited for wear 
next to the body, and has taken the place of all other kinds of material 
for this purpose. 

The finest results are obtained by the use of silk yarn, yet many 
very satisfactory fabrics are made from lisle thread and mercerized 
cotton; fibers that are much cheaper than silk. Such fabrics retain 
their style, shape and brilliancy through much hard usage, and many 
trips through laundries. Indeed, the problem seems to be that on 
the medium-priced garments the trimmings, which are necessary to 
present a sufficiently neat appearance, must be of a somewhat better 
quality than the fabric itself, in order to wear as well. 

Making Up Samples. In making up samples for an approach- 
ing season, the designer's field would appear to be somewhat limited, 
from the fact that the general styles or character of these garments 
have now become standardized, and are in a measure arbitrary. 
Thus the vest or shirt of a two-piece suit will allow of but little altera- 
tion from the usual shape, except in the length of sleeves or cut of 
the neck; and with the pants and drawers which complete these 



297 ' 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



suits there is still less opportunity for change. In the case of one- 
piece or union suits, which are integral from neck to ankle, these 
restrictions also exist and are, if anything, more arbitrary than with 
the two-piece styles. 

Under such conditions it is evident that any very radical innova- 
tion in the cut or shape of these garments is out of the question; 
so the designer's efforts must of necessity be confined to the minor 
details of texture, finish, color, etc. In this field, however, his art 
has the fullest scope, for there is no end to the variety of effects that 
are possible by the use of the various trimming materials, by them- 
selves or in combination; or when introduced as contrasts with the 
fabric itself; and it is principally these essential details that have 
brought about the present advanced state of the art. The chief 
fundamental that must be recognized is that the wearers of these 
garments demand something that shall be of an even thickness 
throughout, so whatever may be superimposed in the way of bands, 
facings, etc., must not be of any appreciable thickness that will cause 
the garment to appear bulky in any part. 

The basic fabric, having been previously determined as to 
weight, firmness, etc., is sufficient of itself for the requirements of 
the season, and any extra thickness beyond this often proves un- 
comfortable to the wearer. 

The seams that are introduced to unite the several parts into 
a garment must also be flat as well as strong, and without any un- 
necessary ridge or corded appearance. These are prime essentials, 
which may be considered as standardized, and having provided for 
them in a satisfactory manner the final detail of finish may be con- 
sidered. A certain amount of this, is, of course, indespensable, as 
it is required for the practical purposes of fastenings in the form of 
buttons, lacings, etc., and as bindings, facings, hems, etc., for pro- 
tection of the several openings and extremities of the garments. In 
selecting the materials for these purposes, however, many pleasing 
effects are possible, and they may be made to serve in a decorative 
sense as well as being utilitarian. 

Selection of Materials. In selecting the nature and quality of 
fiber or material from which the fabric will be made, it is necessary 
that the detail of color should be considered in conjunction, because 
if a specific hue or shade has been predetermined, and a dye or other 



298 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



artificial agent is necessary to produce the desired result, the especial 
fiber know n as the most favorable vehicle must be chosen ; for among 
the many generic dyeing agents, or their mordants, some are more 
perfectly adapted to a specific fiber than others. If a natural color 
is desired, that fiber which has the cleanest appearance when in this 
state must be selected. 

Having determined the fiber, color, and gauge of the fabric, 
and having a finished piece of cloth before him, the designer's task 
is to shape the pattern or cut of the garment, and to decide on an 
amount and quality of finish or trimming that seems necessary and 
appropriate. This is essentially the chief's province, in which there 
is recourse to no assistance excepting that rendered by the makers 
of whatever finishing material he needs, such as facing, l)ands, land- 
ing, lace, buttons, etc. 

Style of the Garment. The style of underwear in most general 
use is the two-piece suit, consisting of shirt and drawers, or vest and 
pants. The one-piece or union suit, however, is fast coming into 
vogue, and it has several points of superiority that appeal to a large 
class of users. While there is no intention to establish a comparison, 
one, and probably the principal, advantage of the union suit may 
be mentioned. 

This is the absence of a double thickness of fabric around the 
lower part of the body and hips, for, as the garment is of one integral 
piece from neck to ankle, it adds but a single thickness over any 
part of the body. 

Style of Finish. In selecting an appropriate amount of finish 
for all styles of these garments, a great deal of care and taste is re- 
quired, for if too much finish is imposed, or if it be gaudy, the desired 
effect is at once destroyed; this being especially true of the more 
expensive grades. In the detail of neck finish, for instance, while 
a novel effect is always sought for, either by the aid of lace, binding 
or a piece of the fabric itself having been knit with contrasting stitches, 
any material that produces a poor effect is at once seen to be out of 
place. This is also true of the front facing of shirts, and bands on 
drawers. 

The buttons also are made in an endless variety, some being 
very beautiful, and they assist very materially in producing a dressy 
effect. 



299 



6 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



As regards the color scheme of the garment, there are probably 
as many varying theories on this subject as there are wearers of the 
garments. So the problem is to exhibit only that which will not 
offend. An effect that is pleasing has trimmings of a slightly dis- 
similar shade from the l)asic color of the integral garment itself. 
Many times the vefy simplicity of a design serves to attract attention 




Turning and Winding-up Machine. 



to a fabric that otherwise would fail of notice, even if the greatest 
skill had V)een devoted to its every process of manufacture. 

FINISHING FLAT GOODS 

The manner of handling knit goods, and die various operations 
required in the process of finishing, is about the same in all kinds 
of goods, either shirts or drawers, Init for convenience a dozen shirts, 
followed through the mill, will illustrate the successive processes 
they undergo. The system of tracing the garments with the Stetson 
coupon check is perhaps regarded as the best and most reliable system 
for that purpose. 

Turning the Cloth. When the rolls of cloth are removed from 
the take-up, the right side of the cloth is inside the roll; that is, the 



300 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



inside of the circular web of cloth as it leaves the needles on the frame 
presents a more sightly appearance, showing as it does the wale or 
ribs formed by the stitch, wdiile the outside of the fabric presents 
the annular courses formed in the knitting operation. The beauty 
of the stitch formed on the ribbed side of the cloth distinguishes it 
as the right side or face. This requires the web to be turned inside 




Fig. 3. Leighton Machine Go's. Knit Web Turning Machine. 

out, and it is usually most practical to turn it before it leaves the 
knitting room. The accompanying cut shows very clearly the mode 
of accomplishing this operation by machinery. (See Fig. 1.) 

The web of cloth is drawn on the tube or cylinder until the 
other end can be introduced into and drawn through the inside, 
and started around the roll at the further end of the machine, and 



301 



KNTT GOODS FINISHING 



the power applied and the cloth rolled up in shape to be delivered 
to the cutter. The machine is simple and readily comprehended 
by reference to the illustration. 

The Leighton Machine Co.'s knit wel) turning machine is an 
important improvement in the process of turning the web. It is 
intended to be set up at the end of the turning tubes now in use in 
knitting mills and to put the roll of webbing on the tube ready for 
the rolling up machine, to take it off through the tube (thereby turn- 
ing the web) and roll it up again. This is a satisfactory device for 
putting the webbing on the turning tubes. 




Fig. 3. Eastman Electric Cloth Cuttiug Machine Table. 

Cutting to Shape. The cloth, now l)e\ng right side out, is turned 
over to the cutter, who pushes an iron rod through the center, and 
places it in a rack, provided for that purpose, at the head of the cut- 
ting table. 

If the cutting is done in the old way with a large, long knife 
pushed up and down through a slot in the table arranged to suit 
the size and style of the garment required, the cutter draws from 
the roll such a length as he requires, cuts it off, and repeats the opera- 
tion until he has as many lengths in a pile, evenly distributed on top 



802 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



of each other on the cutting table, as he may desire. After marking 
the top of the pile with a pattern corresponding with the slot in the 
table, he proceeds to "whip-saw" or cut out the sections of the gar- 
ment as marked out with the pattern. The smaller sections are cut 
and fashioned with hand-shears, as also are the shoulders "sloped" 
where the sleeves are to be fitted in. 

Finishing Processes. After a dozen bodies, twenty-four sleeves, 
twenty-four cuffs and twenty-four half borders have been prepared, 
they are tied up in dozen lots and turned over to the loopers, who 
loop on or join the cuffs to the bodies, the rib-tails to the bottom of 
the shirts, and join the shoulders without leaving a seam, as they 
are joined loop for loop in a manner not easily detected. They may 
be sewed together very nicely, but the point of joining is never so 
smooth and sightly as by the looping process. 

The seamers then take the garments in hand to seam up the 
sleeves and join them to the bodies. The inspectors and menders 
then look them over and attend to what mending is necessary. 

If overseaming the cuffs is in vogue the garments then go to 
the overseaming machines, to have the cuffs and half borders joined 
on the edges, after which they go to the washroom and are scoured 
and fulled. If they are to be bleached they are placed in the bleach 
house over night wet, and are given a sulphur bleach, taken out in 
the morning, rinsed and sent to the boarding room where they are 
boarded on forms of the proper size as designated by the yarn marks 
in the garments. 

After drying out in the dry room or drying machine, and re- 
moved from the boards, the garments are sent to the finishing room 
where the process of finishing begins by girls looking over them to 
see if the sizes are properly sorted, and stamping the sizes on the 
skirt of each garment, attaching the Stetson coupon tag and sending 
them to the neck marker, who marks the neck with a "kicker," or 
in an up-to-date mill with a power marker. 

After the neck flaps are cut the stitcher performs her operation 
of stitching down the flaps, and takes oft* the first coupon, it being 
the first piece-work performed on the garments. They are now 
carried to a cutting table, the fronts marked, cut down for the button 
stays and button hole facings, and are then turned over to the facer, 
who sews on the facing, detaches her coupon from the tag, and 



303 



10 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



passes them over to the twin-needle machine operator, who covers 
the raw edges of the flaps. The dozen then goes to the finishers, 
who put on the button stays and further complete the garment 
with binding of such quality as designated on the stub end of the 
check. 

The button-holer now takes the dozen in hand and makes the 
button holes, spacing them and trimming ofl" the threads. She turns 
them over to a little girl who marks them for the buttons and carries 
them to the button-sewing machine, where the buttons are sewed on 
and the threads trimmed off. 

They now come under the eyes of the inspectors, or lookers- 
over, who look them over 
carefully, trim off all loose 
threads and shaking each 
garment, send them to the 
press-room, where they are 
carefully folded in papers 
or press boards in dozen 
packages and put intr> the 
press, in which they are left 
for three hours under a 
pressure of 3000 pounds or 
more. After being taken 
out of the press and the 
press-boards removed, they 
are carefully scanned by 
girls, w^ho throw out all 
imperfect goods and fold 
the perfects or firsts, in proper shape to fit the boxes, after which 
they are boxed and labelled, ready for the shipper. A well regu- 
lated and well managed mill ought not to have more than 2^ per 
cent of seconds, even on a medium grade of goods. 

Equipment and Arrangement of the Finishing Room. A well 
equipped, up-to-date mill today has several features in the finishing 
department that the larger number of the mills have been slow to 
adopt. In these improvements are included an electric or power 
cutting machine, taking the place of the old way of cutting with a 
)vnife following a slot in the cutting bench and pushing by hand with 




Fig. 4. 



Eastmiiu Electric Cloth Cutting 
Machine. 



304 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



11 



an up and down motion as with a saw. Another departure is in 
the method of drying, a complete drying machine being substituted 
for the old way of a large room given up to drying and wasting heat. 
The arrangement of the tables — cutting, inspectors', makers', 
and other tables as well as the machine tables — depends greatly on 
the size of the finishing room. The cutting tables should be in close 
proximity to the knitting frames. If the cutting is done on a floor 




Fig. 5. Willcox & Gibbs "Overlock" Machine. 



above that where the loopers are, a chute can be arranged to slide the 
goods down near the loopers after they are cut and bundled in 
dozens. To each bundle should be attached a patent tag, on which 
is printed a coupon for every operator who works by the piece to 
detach, in order to show the number of dozens she has done. The 
cutting may be done in the finishing room, if more convenient on 
account of the floor space. If there is space in the knitting room, it 



305 



12 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

is more desirable to do the cutting there, the rolls of cloth being 
more awkward to handle than the bundled dozens. 

The seamers should be near the loopers. The nearer all these 
several operations are to each other, the less day-help is re([uired to 
handle the goods, and it is folly to have operators of machines rini- 
ning after their work while their machines lie idle. It simply means 
more machines and more operators, and it is wiser in more ways 
than one to have little girls do what marking, and other preparatory 
work which they are capable of doing, carrying the work to the 
operators and taking it away, thereby getting the full production 
from machines. 

EQUIPMENT FOR FINISHING 100 DOZEN FLAT GOODS 
WILLCOX AND GIBBS SYSTEM 

A good finishing equipment for finishing 100 dozen men's or 
ladies' fine underwear flat goods, embodying the "Overlock" seam 
and hem of the Willcox & Gibbs Co., may be as follows: 

One electric or power cloth cutting machine, with shirt and drawer 
patterns. 

Eight Beattie double or lock-stitch loopers. 

Three Wilcox & Gibbs "Overlock" machines. 

Drying-boards; the number required depenchng upon the weight of 
goods and methods of drying. 

One Kennedy's power neck marker. 

Patterns and shears for trimming. 

Six Willcox & Gibbs automatic finishers. 

One catstitcher. 

Six zigzag machines, for suspender tapes and covering gussets of drawers 
and covering edges of cloth left after running necks. 

One button-hole machine. 

One button sewing machine. 

Three two-needle machines, for double row of stitching on outside. 

One single-needle machine. 

One Crawford power or hydraulic steam press, with press boards. 

One rib cutter. 

One Kennedy automatic band cutting machine. 

One irregular form-cutting machine, with dies for irregular shapes. 

One paper cutting machine for cutting domets, etc., into strips, stayS' 
bands, etc. 

One power eyeletting machine, for setting metal eyelets in drawers. 

If the drawers have straps on the back with two sets of buttons 
and button-holes to change the waist size, no eyelet machinery is 
needed. If a tape or lacing is used, the eyelet may be either a metal 



306 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



13 



eyelet or stitched eyelet, the former calling for a power eyeletting 
machine, the latter for an eyelet stitching machine. 

It is still a custom in some mills to use end-sewing machines to 
close the cuffs and anklets, but this is not necessary, the present 
methods of making the seams closing the cuffs properly. 

UNION SPECIAL SYSTEM 
An equipment for finishing 100 dozen men's or ladies' fine under- 
wear, flat goods, say half sliirts and half drawers, on the Union 




Fig. 6. Dewees Seaming and Trimming Machine. 

Special system, should have the following machinery, although, of 
course, the weight of the goods may make a slight difference: 

One electric or power cloth cutting machine, with patterns. 

Eight Beattie loopers or turning off machine.s. 

Three Union Special seamers. 

Drying boards — the character of work will deterniiue the number. 



307 



14 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

One Kennedy power neck marker. 

Patterns and shears for trimming. 

Five Union Special finishing machines for shirts. 

Six Union Special drawer finishing machines. 

One catstitching machine. 

One button-hole "machine. 

One button sewing machine. 

One strapping machine, for sewing suspender straps to drawers. 

One Union Special single needle ornamental machine, for making pearl 
edge on binding. 

One eyelet sewing machine, for stitching round eyelets, or one power 
eyeletting machine for metal eyelets. 

One ITnion Special two-line taj)ing machine, for covering back seam of 
drawers witli tape. 

One band stitcher, for stitching drawer bands together. 

One twin-needle machine for necking. 

One McCreary rib cutter. 

One Kennedy automatic Ijand cutting machine, for stays and facings. 

One Gem paper cutting machine for cutting flannels domet, etc., into 
strips. 

One Kennedy power cutter, with dies for irregular shapes, for cutting 
stays, drawer bands, forms, gussets, etc. 

One Crawford power steam press, with press boards. 

The Finishing Machine Table. Because of tlie e.xaeting require- 
ments now existing in high-speed sewing machines, it will be realized 
how vitally necessary it is to the most effectual performance of these 
machines, and to prolong their usefulness, that a solid support or 
foundation should be provided. Too often it is the case that the 
sewing machines are neglected with the result that their full efficiency 
is never obtained, and they must be overhauled much sooner than 
would be necessary if the table were of substantial construction, and 
the transmitters, shafting and pulleys supported and aligned in a 
workmanlike manner. 

Of the sewing machines in use at the present time, the greatest 
number are either necessarily complex in their construction, and 
consequently of considerable weight, or are run at a high rate of 
speed, which is often more than equivalent to the weight factor in 
its ultimate effect on the table. Many machines combine l)oth these 
features — weight and speed — which, of course, means a double tax 
on their supporting structure. 

That class of machines which includes those used for button- 
holing, button-sewing, and strapping, is an example of the heavy 
type, and their most important function is the stop-motion which 



308 



KNIT CxOODS FINISHING 



15 



is made necessary by the nature of their particular operations. These 
machines are run at a comparatively slow speed, but the unremitting 
succession of shocks from the stop-motion is a factor which imposes 
the hardest kind of service on the table. 

All seaming machines, and some of those used for finishing are 
comparatively lighter than the class just mentioned, but the load 
wliich they contribute is added to by the high speed which is required 
from them. About the only machines in use at the present period 
that may be called light, as well as light running, are the small, 
single-thread finishing machines, and if those were the only ones to 




Fig. 7. Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Table. 

contend with, the ordinary light, wooden table would no doubt 
suffice. 

Recognizing the requirements as they now exist, however, it 
becomes most important to consider them carefully, and provide a 
foundation for the machines that will meet the new conditions, not 
only with reference to the essential of convenience, but especially 
in regard to the required amount of strength and stiffness to adequately 
absorb any amount of vibration that may develop. The result would 
insure increased general efficiency of the machines, their usefulness 
would be prolonged indefinitely, and the table itself would be prac- 
tically indestructible. 



309 



16 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

There are, of course, many differing ideas as to how a table 
should be constructed. A strong, wooden table has many good 
points, and so has one with iron legs and wooden top. The latter 
meets with the most general favor, however, and seems to embody 
a greater number of desirable features than any other. With refer- 
ence to this subject a set of drawings has been prepared (See Fig. 8) 
that illustrates several views of a table which is designed to embody, 
in the simplest form, many features that have been proven to be 
essential, together with others that are somewhat novel; and it is 
believed that a combination of this description would effectually 
meet all of the essential conditions that may arise. The design is 
susceptible of modifications to suit the individual needs of each mill, 
or as the course of the product through each department may neces- 
sitate, but the general scheme will be readily understood. 

In this table the legs are of cast iron, the main feature of which 
is a straight, tubular form of post that is designed to be located as 
nearly as possible under the point of load or stress which the table 
top receives from each line of machines, thus securing the most direct 
support and connection between the machine bases and the floor. 
The feet of these posts are extended horizontally from opposite sides 
of each post in a line parallel with the length of the table, and in this 
manner assist materially as braces in this direction. Strong lag 
screws which enter the joists or stringers where possible ensure a 
most effectual fastening to the floor at these points. 

A feature which is second in importance only to a good floor 
fastening is that of supporting the main shaft in its l)earings, for in 
a long stretch of table the corresponding length of shaft must carry 
a considerable weight of iron in the form of pulleys and couplings, 
and as this factor is always greatly exceeded by that of the straining 
belts, which are necessarily short and must therefore be kept at a 
tight tension in order to transmit the required amount of power to 
each machine, the resultant of these two forces, weight and strain, 
becomes of great moment. 

To provide an adequate resistance against these forces at this 
point, therefore, it will be noticed in the drawings that the main, or 
lower cross rail web has been (juite heavily ribbed both top and 
bottom, making it of the I beam form in section. In addition to 
this provision for strength in the rail itself, its ends are seen to depend 



310 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



17 



gradually to their points of connection with each tubular upright mem- 
l)er, thus giving the rail an arch form in outline, and providing ample 
stretigth for its purpose in any direction. 

The well known provision for adjusting each hanger in its rail 
for the purpose of aligning the shaft is shown in section. 




IN fa 



The upper cross rail which supports the wooden top, is provided 
with a wide flange on its upper edge, through which the screws that 
secure the top are passed. Its mid-section is supported through two 
extensions of the web which connect respectively at two points on the 



311 



18 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



*^ 



upper side of the lower rail. Both these rails and the two tubular 
upright members are combined in one integral casting, and there are 
no joints for the purpose of adjustment whatever, excepting the one 
for the purpose of aligning the shaft. 

It is no doubt convenient, and sometimes necessary, that vertical 
adjustment for the table's top be provided, but where it is not neces- 
sary, it is doul)tful if this provision is a practical one, for if not fastened 

very secin-ely, such adjustable 
joints are soon out of place, 
and the table's top deflected 
thereby as badly, or worse, 
than any floor would settle in 
years. So if a table can be 
erected without them, it would 
be rigid to the utmost limit, 
and, thereafter, never need 
attention except as the build- 
ing itself might change, and in 
that event any change would 
affect all points of the table 
equally, so if the shaft and the 
top were originally in perfect 
alignment their relation would 
never change. 

A section of the top is 
shown, the central portion of 
which is made of one-inch 
stock, approximately, and extends continuously over as many pairs of 
legs, or supports, as its original length will permit. The two outer 
parts of each section, however, are intended to be of much thicker 
stock — say three inches — and will extend only from one leg to the next 
adjacent one, thus providing a separate top section or base for each 
machine and its transmitter. 

The ends of these short sections are designed to rest on the upper 
hori2;ontal flanges of the two adjacent cast iron legs in such a manner 
that two of the tops will meet and make a joint in the centre of one 
flange, and, if suitable detachable fastenings are provided, it is pos- 
sible to remove any section with its machine and transmitter undis- 




Kennedy's Power Neck Marker, 



312 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 10 

turbed, and replace them between any other pair of legs. This makes 
it possible to quickly substitute one machine for another at any point 
on either side of the table whenever it is found necessary or desirable 
to change the order of operations through the department, and not 
be obliged to pass the dozens back, or cross the table. 

A trough or depression in the top has not been provided in this 
table, for the reason that this feature has always seemed to disclose 
as many defects as advantages, mainly in the fact that it was a very 
convenient receptacle for many forms of waste material, such as 
poorly wound cones of thread, or bobbins, defective binding, dirt, etc. 

One other item in the table's equipment is that of supporting 
the spools or cones in a position that will most favorably deliver their 
thread to the machines. This position would seem to be somewhere 
overhead, but within easy reach of the operatives, and a long central 
rack may be provided for the purpose, which would be supported at 
intervals from the table's top, or suspended form the ceiling. The 
latter plan would l)e preferable as the rack would not then be affected 
by any vibration from the machines through the»table. 

ADJUSTMENT AND OPERATION OF FINISHING MACHINES 

The adjustment of sewing machines is an operation which re- 
quires great care. If a machine is acting badly, an intelligent study 
of its condition is absolutely necessary before a move to correct it can 
be made Then, and not until then, can a remedy be applied with 
any hope of success. 

General Consideration. So much has been done with sewing 
machines, and their various applications and forms of construction 
are so different, that it is hardly possible to group them, nor is it 
necessary. In nearly all the main functions are identical in principal, 
and before we take up each one separately, it is well to consider them 
generally. 

Nearly all sewing machines have the com.bination of a needle; a 
throat or cloth plate, through which the needle passes after piercing 
the goods, a needle thread loop-laking device, and some form of feed. 
The needle must descend, or pass its point by the looper's point far 
enough and quickly enough to act in time for the looper to take the 
needle's thread, as soon as the needle's upward movement forms a 
loop, and the feed must do its work while the needle is out of the goods. 



313 



20 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



In feeding an ordinary piece of material on a plain machine, it can 
be generally stated that the feed must move laterally to carry the 
goods as much as is possible while it is above the plate, that is, have 
it appear above the plate as soon as possible after the needle has left 
the work, so as to have nearly all of its work done before it has to 
descend again, thereby getting the greatest amount of effective motion 




Fig. 9. Siiiser Button Hole Machine. 



with the least amount of actual motion; for the four motion feed 
actuated by eccentrics (the easiest device known for high speed) can- 
not be made to take the ideal path, but takes the form of an ellipse.. 
The ideal path would be a parallelogram. This could l)e obtained 
by having the raising motion take place before any lateral motion 
al)ove the plate, and the drop motion before the return below, but it 
is not suitalile for high speed, because the sources of motion would 



314 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 21 

need to be intermittent, one waiting for the other, and obtainable only 
with some form of cams, which are hard in their action and lack 
effective means for taking up wear. Thread controlling devices, such 
as takeups, and, of course, tensions, are common to all machines; and 
no small part of the adjusters' art is needed to properly manipulate 
these inoffensive appearing but highly necessary parts of the general 
whole. 

Plain Finishing Machines. The plainest form of sewing ma- 
chines embraces the Willcox & Gibbs and L^nion Special types. They 
are one needle, single-thread, chain stitch machines in the high-speed 
class; and on work where this form of stitch is acceptable are very 




Fig. 10. Buttons Sewed on by Machine. The New Way (trimmed) and the Old 
Way (untrlmmed). 

economical, not only on the question of thread, but as to their ease of 
manipulation by, the operator, and small number and simplicity of 
parts. When once in good working order they rarely need the atten- 
tion of the adjuster, and when trouble occurs it is easily located. 

The Needle. It is realized that the item of expense for sewing 
machine needles is large, and the practice of saving those which have 
been discarded and sorting the seemingly good ones out for use a 
second time, is perhaps an economy in some cases. The evils which 
an imperfect needle can cause are so many however, that it is of the 
greatest importance to make sure that this implement is not at fault. 

An intimate and extensive knowledge of sewing machines and 
their habits has proved conclusively that it is a wise plan not to use 



315 



22 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

a needle a second time. If a machine is breaking more needles than 
it should, there must be some wrong condition of adjustment. This 
should be looked for and corrected. 

The Looper. Having made sure of a good needle, the looper, 
or hook, must be examined and made perfectly smooth with crocus 
cloth. The point must be especially smooth and of the proper shape. 
If it has been broken or worn blunt, a careful grinding or stoning 
will restore it to the most favorable condition for taking a loop. If 
this process has shortened the length of the point materially, it may 
be necessary to change the spot on the shank so as to time the looper 
a trifle quicker. 

In the Union . Special type the looper may be quickened by 
lengthening its driving rod. As the point of a looper will allow of 
but little remaking this should be done with great care, for if too much 
is taken off it is useless. It may also be found that the thread has 
worn a groove, or crease, in the neck of the looper, where the loop, 
in the course of forming the stitch, comes to a rest. This may be the 
cause of l)reakage, and many times can be stoned out without chang- 
ins its effective form. 

In the Union Special type of machine the loop-retaining wire on 
the under-side of the throat plate must be looked at, and if rough, it 
also should be smoothed with crocus cloth. This part is adjusted so 
that the looper in its action travels very close to it. If it has by any 
chance become bent, so the looper rubs it, breakage of thread is sure 
to follow, either by being pinched off between the two parts, or by 
their roughness from the too close contact. 

Before the machine is ready for a test, look over all the eyelets 
or guiding holes through which the thread passes. These must be 
smooth and round, that is, they should not have sharp corners over 
which the thread, in passing or being drawn up, will be compelled to 
take a sharp angle. If a groove or crease has worn in any of these, a 
new, smooth one is necessary. If a machine breaks the thread in the 
chain, the trouble is most likely with the feed, or presser-foot, per- 
haps both. The bottom of the presser foot must be smooth and have 
a bearing from end to end on the feed points. It should also rest its 
whole length on the throat plate when the feed is down. The needle 
hole and plate must also be examined for rough places. 



316 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 23 

The Feed. A feed that is new and excessively sharp, or one that 
has been worn dull, may cause a breaking of the thread. In the 
latter instance, the chain will not be fed awav from the stitch-forming 
position positively enough. If a feed is too sharp, we have the emery 
and crocus cloth remedy. If dull, it can be annealed and the teeth 
refiled to their proper shape. Many times the sharp burrs or edges 
of feed points may be rubbed off with the wire side of a file card. 

Skipping the Loop. The causes for skipping (or missing) 
stitches generally lie in the needle and looper. If this is the trouble, 
first make sure that the machine is threaded properly. Then see 
that the needle in raising throws out its loop favorably for the looper 
point to enter. If the loop is not large enough, try the needle a little 
lower still, say one-sixteenth of an inch. If not enough, then try it a 
little lower still. It is not best to have the eye of the needle over one- 
eighth of an inch l)elow the under-side of the looper point when the 
needle is at its lowest position, and this may be considered the most 
favorable condition in nearly all cases. The exceptions might be 
when unusually hard or soft material is being sewed; and if, after 
trial, a lower position of the needle seems better, it will probably be 
necessary to make the time of the looper a little slower, thereby 
allowing the lowered needle time to rise and open out its loop before 
the looper point gets to it. 

If the loop does not open out scjuarely before the looper point, 
the needle may be turned in its holder, or if it is spotted in the needle 
bar, the bar may be turned in the required direction to make the loop 
open favorably. 

Loopers having short, slim points should be set so as to pass by 
the needle very closely, but not touch it, for, as a rule, the needles in 
such machines throw a comparatively small loop. In machines 
which carry a broad, longer looper, it will be found that the needle's 
eye is driven farther below the looper point, and has more of an up- 
ward movement before the looper point gets to it than is the case with 
the other. The vibratory type of looper may be set cjuite close to the 
needle on its forward, or loop-entering stroke, and as close to the 
needle on the return, or backward, stroke as is possible and touch it. 
These adjustments of the looper in relation to the loop retainer are 
quite vital points, and it is essential to have them correct before much 
else is done. 



317 



24 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

Skipping of stitches and thread-breaking can often he traced to 
poorly working tensions. The thread friction discs must always be 
free to move on the post and be clear of lint. If the thread has worn 
creases in the faces of the discs, they will not control the thread evenly. 
The spring also must be of the proper strength, yet perfectly flexible. 
If, having exhausted our list of remedies, the thread still persists in 
breaking, it is but fair that the quality of the thread be considered, 
for a small proportion of the thread which is made will not run on 
any machine, and it becomes a useless expenditure of time to try to 
make it do so. 

High Speed. The matter of speed also is to be considered. Be- 
yond a certain limit in every machine, excessive speed is actualiv more 
detrimental to a manufacturer's interests than too little, for once let a 
machine become racked and worn from this cause, its usefulness is 
over, and repeated overhaulings become more and more necessary. 
In response to the user's standing request for high-speed machines, 
the designer's work is constantly carried on with this as one of the 
important ends in view, and no doubt time will produce machines 
capable of 4,000 and even 5,000 revolutions per minute. 

Tivo Thread Finishing Machines. In taking up hn- consider- 
eration those sewing machines which use two threads in making their 
stitch, we enter a more interesting and instructive department of the 
whole sewing machine art and applications, and it is especially inter- 
esting when considered in connection with the manufacture of knit 
goods, for the very peculiar nature of this fabric at once prohibits the 
use of a stitch that might be perfectly satisfactory on goods of a firm 
texture. We may know this from the fact that thousands of machines 
which make the familiar two-thread, so-called lock stitch, with a 
shuttle and bobbin, are employed exclusively in making up our 
heavier outer garments, and also underwear, which is made from 
muslin and linen. These fabrics all are of a firm and non-elastic 
nature, so there need be no different element required in the sewing 
stitch which enters so largely into their connstruction, and conse- 
quently the lock stitch suffices, or rather we may say, it is necessary 
and therefore satisfactory. 

Elasticity in the Seam. When our modern knitted fabric, with 
its beautiful and distinctive feature — elasticity — was invented, the 
question of garment making from it on sewing machines became a 



318 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



25 



vital and puzzling one, and especially was this the fact in the matter 
of seaming or joining the parts together, for if the old lock stitch was 
introduced for this purpose the non-elastic nature of it at once de- 
stroyed the very feature that brought this fabric into existence. From 
the very first, this stitch 
seems never to have been 
considered except in one 
or two impractical ways, 
and the only other re- 
course was to some form 
of chain stitch, and up to 
date but three forms of it 
have ever been used. 

First, and for many 
years, it was the single- 
thread chain stitch Vvith 
which all seaming, as 
well as finishing, was 
done, and we may take it 
for granted that this seam 
met all early require- 
ments, but as the fabric 
was improved in texture, 
quality and finish, each 
succeeding year, the 
single-thread chain stitch became deficient in many respects, and was 
finally supplanted by the two-thread chain, or double-locked stitch. 
This stitch was first made by what we knew as the Grover & Baker 
machine, and was a long step in advance of the single-thread chain 
stitch, because the second or additional threatl not only doubled the 
seam's strength, but the manner in which the two threads w^ere looped 
or interlaced with each other, produced a greater degree of elasticity 
— two elements which we know are of vital importance. 

THE LOCK STITCH, DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH 
AND "OVERLOCK" STITCH 

Sewing machines which use two threads in making their stitch 
may be grouped in three classes — the lock stitch, the double chain 
stitch, and what is known as the overlock stitch. 




Pig. 10. Diagrams of the Lock Stitch. 



319 




26 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

Lock Stitch. The first, or lock-stitch, shown in Fig. 11, is the 
oldest form of the three. It is not used in the actual making of a 
garment from knit goods to any great extent, owing to its lack of 
elasticity, that is, it will not yield when the goods are stretched with- 
out breaking apart. This, of course, precludes its use for such a 
purpose. It can be, and is used in button-hole, button-sewing, over- 
seaming and cat-stitching machines, and in these operations it is 

perfectly satisfactory. In button- 
holing and button-sewing the 
stitches are confined to particular 
^'^^'^1*^^"''^* ^ places on the garment and are not 

Fig. 13. Double Thread Chain Stitch, contiuuous as in a seam, SO the ele- 

/ ment of elasticity is not recjuired. 
In over-seaming and cat-stitching, however, this stitch must be 
elastic, and as it is used in these operations it is so from the fact that 
the machines are constructed so as to lay the threads on the two sur- 
faces of the material in a succession of diagonal stitches, as illustrated 
in Figs. 2 and 4, and when the fabric is stretched these diagonal 
stitches change their position to make an approximately straight line, 
something like Fig. 3 in appearance. 

Different degrees of elasticity may be obtained by adjusting the 
machine to sew a varying number of stitches i-n a given distance. For 
instance, a seam having twelve stitches to one inch, will be much more 
elastic than one having four stitches in the same distance. There is 
no w'ay by w^hich this stitch can practically l)e made to produce an 
elastic straight-away seam, so if this is desired a lock-stitch cannot 
be considered. 

Double Chain Stitch. The second, or double-chain stitch, is 
much more elastic than the lock-stitch, and is, therefore, peculiarly 
adapted for use in making garments from knit goods or any material 
of that nature. It is elastic for the reason that a surplus length of 
thread is introduced into each stitch, both in the knot or tie of the two 
threads together, and as it is laid on the surface of the material be- 
tween the successive needle punctures. 

The excess of needle thread is obtained from the fact that the 
tie or connection of this thread with the under or looper thread is 
always made on the lower surface of the work, so, instead of lying in 
a comparatively straight line, as it does in a lock stitch, it must pass 



320 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



27 



through the material to its tying position with the under thread, and 
then back again to the upper surface at each puncture of the needle. 
The position of this thread as it lies in the stitch is shown at A, Fig. 12. 

A surplus of under thread is obtained in this stitch from a process 
of weaving or looping from stitch to stitch, which gives it a total of 
three times the length of the stitch itself; that is, there are three 
strands of thread laid on the under-surface from one lock to another. 
A close examination of a seam of this character will show the course 
of this thread quite plainly. It is illustrated at B in Fig. 12. In this 
manner both of the threads are given a greater length than the seam 
itself, and produce the necessary amount of elasticity. Of course, 
all of this elastic element may be eliminated from the stitch by exces- 
sively tight tensions, and 
it therefore follows that 
more or less may be ob- 
tained as required from 
the same agency. 

"Overlock" Stitch. 
The "overlock" stitch is 
themost elastic of all, and 
its distinctive feature is 
that it is, in addition to 
this, a very efficient cov- 
ering or wrapping stitch. 
This makes it valuable 

for edge-finishing, or selvedging, as well as for seaming, and when used 
for seaming the result is a beautifully-finished, even and perfectly 
elastic joint of the two parts of the garment, the edges of which are 
neatly covered and protected from wear. The elasticity of this stitch 
is obtained by laying so much of its thread, both upper and under, 
across the line of the seam. 

Another advantage which the double chain and the overlock 
stitches have over the lock stitch is that the thread may be used 
directly from large spools or cones, for unlike the lock stitch, the 
spool-end of the looper or under thread is never passed through the 
needle loop but the two threads are locked or laced together from 
stitch to stitch, similar to a knitting stitch or crocheting. This does 
away with the necessity of bobbins for the under-thread, on which 




Fig. 13. Diagram of Covering Stitch. 



321 



28 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



the number of yards which may be wound is always Hmited, owing 
to the fact that the whole functional group, thread, bobbin, and bobbin- 
case, must be passed entirely through the needle thread loop for each 
stitch. 

In the chain and overlock stitches only a very little more thread 
is drawn from the needle than is actually re([uired to make the stitch 
when it is finally set in position, so that no great unused surplus must 




Overlock" Seam for Sleeves. 



needs be taken back through the eye of the needle by the moving eye- 
lets. For this reason, the thread is not served back and forth so 
much, and thereby frayed or weakened before finally laid in the stitch. 
In referring to the accompanying diagrams it must be borne in 
mind that they are greatly enlarged, and the positions of the several 
threads are considerably distorted in order to show more plainly their 
relation to one another. In actual practice a machine with properly 
adjusted tensions and correctly operating stitch-forming implements 
will produce a perfectly smooth and even stitch which can be stronger 
than the fabric itself, given the proper quality of thread. 



322 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



29 



Tension. The matter of tensions is a very important one in all 
sewing machines, and we may say that it becomes more so as the speed 



V' • 


■<f- 


■n^M^^i 



Fig. 15. '-Qverlock" Seam for Sides and Gussets. 

factor is raised in each successive "new model" wHich is brought out, 




Fig. 16. "Overlock" Seam for Shoulders and "Qverlock" Concealed Stitch Hem for 

Shirts and Cuffs. 

for it must be borne in mind that the same functions exist and must 
be reckoned with in every kind of stitch, whether it is made at a low 



323 



30 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



or high rate of speed. One of these funetions is that a never-varying 
quantity of thread must be measured off for final treatment by the 
stitch-forming implements, i.e., the needle, looper, etc., in every in- 
dividual stitch, and the problem is to produce an even stitch with the 

greatest amount of precision, 
aji^t;Pf5^^.: ' u and without applying any un- 

necessary friction on the sev- 
eral threads. 

Trimming the Seam. An- 
other element of great interest 
to us in the development of a 
sewed seam on this peculiar 
fabric is the inception and sub- 
sequent stages of improve- 
ment of the trimming devices 
which now are used in con- 
nection with the stitching 
mechanism. 

Previous to 1880 the 
hand-sheared seam prevailed, 
but the inventive and ever 
alert minds of the sewing ma- 
chine makers ([uickly saw an 
opportunity, and at once be- 
gan to consider the feasibility 
of combining with the sewing 
mechanism an efficient trim- 
ming device which would per- 
form its office simultaneously 
with the making of the seam, 
and thereby eliminate the slow, 
tedious operation of shearing 
the projecting surplus by hand. 
The first trimmer seems to 
have appeared about 188(J, and was in the form of a circular disc with 
a portion of the disc left blank in order that the feed might operate 
freely. Other devices of minor importance followed at intervals, 
until the device which acted on the shear principle appeared. This 




Fig. 17. "Overlook " Over-Edge for Shirts and 

Cuffs and "Overlock" Tailor-Made Seam 

for Shoulders and Gussets. 



324 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 31 

was practical and efficient, and was in use extensively for some years. 
Then came the trimmer, which operated with the abrasive process, 
and finally a machine was brought out which embraced in one com- 
plete whole the three elementary functions of sewing, trimming, and 
covering the seam at one time. 

This brings us to the present day, and from all the various inven- 
tions for the purpose of trimming knit goods which we know of, but 
two of them have survived and are used to any great extent. These 
are the abrasive trimmer, which is used in conjunction with a machine 
making the two-thread, double-locked chain stitch we have already 
mentioned, and the shear trimmer, which is incorporated in the ma- 
chine combining the three covered stitch functions. These two trim- 
ming devices have stood the test and proved to be very important 
agents in the process of making the two types of our present finely- 
developed, covered, elastic seam on knit goods. 

The Union Special Dewees Trimmer. The Union Special seam- 
ing and trimming machine (shown in Fig. 6) was the result of a 
combination of the Union bag sewnng machine and the Dewees trim- 
mer, which was effected about 1885. The sewing stitch is the two- 
thread, double-locked chain mentioned above, and the trimmer is of 
the abrasive type. 

This machine has stood the test of years as to strength, dura- 
bility, speed, and general all-round efficiency. The trimming device 
is an original, unitjue, and effective one, requiring no sharpening of 
knives, is durable, can be operated at a high rate of speed, cuts a 
clean edge, and the amount of fabric beyond the seam can be regu- 
lated to suit any material. It will perform its work satisfactorily for 
days, with practically no attention whatever other than the ordinary 
oiling of its parts. 

In the final development of the seam, after it has been seamed 
and trimmed, the garment is submitted to another operation, which 
employs one of the best designed Union Special machines. This is 
a side wdieel cylinder, two-needle, three-thread machine, especially 
adapted to cover the trimmed seams on knitted fabrics. The cylinder 
is small and permits of covering the seam of a very small sleeve or leg. 
Two parallel rows of stitches appear on the upper surface of the ma- 
terial, (or outer side of garment) while on the lower surface of the 
material, (or inner side of garment) the rows of stitches are inter- 



325 



32 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

locked by a thread which entirely covers and draws down flat that 
portion of the fabric beyond the seam. This adds strength to the 
seams to a great degree, besides producing a very sightly and com- 
fortable result. 

The seam which is made on this system is one of the best which has 
ever been devised. It has great strength, each stitch being fastened 
independently as well as in combination, so that it cannot rip, and 
is very elastic. It is flat and smooth on both faces of the garment, 
thereby ensuring the greatest comfort to the wearer. 

In adjusting the trimmer on the Union Special both upper and 
lower toggles must first be ground on a true circle with the center of 
each one, which is easily done on the small grinder furnished with 
this machine. The upper toggle should then be dressed to a small 
round on its circular edge, so that its contact with the lower toggle 
will be but a very narrow edge having no sharp corners. The lower 
toggle must be left straight or flat, across its circular edge to provide 
a smooth surface for its mate. 

To adjust toggles, fasten the lower toggle in the toggle frame by 
its fulcrum and clamp screws, and see that it is at the proper height 
in relation to the feed, means for this purpose being provided by a 
wedge with thread and nut at one end which lie in the toggle frame 
beneath the fulcrum block. The height of this toggle should be with 
its circular edge about half-way between top of throat-plate and top 
of feed-dcg when the latter is at its highest position ; then fasten upper 
toggle in place and move it down to the lower one by means of its 
wetlge, so that they touch each other. It may be found on testing 
them with a piece of cloth that they will need a trifle closer adjust- 
ment, but care must be taken that they do not press against each other 
any harder than is necessary to trim the cloth cleanly, for too much 
pressure will produce unnecessary wear and is liable to break the 
edges of the toggles. 

To adjust for width of fabric beyond the seam, move the whole 
toggle frame to or from the needle or line of stitching, first loosening 
the screws which hold it to bed of machine and needle bar head. 
When the desired width is ol)tained be sure that all screws are tight. 

To adjust needle with looper, when the needle bar is at its lowest 
point, and the looper is at its extreme backward throw, the point of 
the looper should be nine thirty-seconds of an inch from the needle, 



826 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 33 

and in its forward throw should pass the back side of needle as closely 
as possible and not touch it, and in its backward throw the needle 
should just clear the back side of looper. The adjustment of this 
rocking motion of looper is by means of set screws in the looper rock 
shaft fork which secures it to the rock shaft. The lateral adjustment 
of the looper is by the connecting rod from lower arm of needle bar 
lever to the looper holder. After loosening the check nuts at each 
end of this rod, which has a right and left hand thread at the ends, 
a slight turn in one direction or the other will move the looper to or 
from the needle. The needle should be adjusted with the deep 
groove towards the operator, and of such a height that the eye will 
be about three thirty-seconds of an inch below the looper when the 
latter's point is just back of the needle. In most cases this adjust- 
ment of needle and looper will ensure the most favorable conditions 
for taking the loops of thread, but some unusual conditions of thread 
or fabric may require a slight modification, and this must then be- 
come a matter of the adjuster's own judgment. 

Tensions. In this machine the lower tension should be looser 
than the upper, but the proper adjustment of either one will be found 
to vary with the quality of fabric. That of a hard or non-elastic 
nature recjuires, and will stand, a tight tension, varymg with the 
strength of the thread. In sewing on knit goods of an elastic nature, 
the object is, of course, to produce a seam which will be strong and 
at the same time just as elastic at the material itself, and it is obvious 
that the latter result cannot be obtained with too tight a tension. A 
good test to determine the proper position of the tensions is to exam- 
ine the seams after sewing: if the seam gaps or opens on pulling the 
two pieces of cloth apart then tension is not tight enough, and if on 
pulling it lengthwise of the seam the threads break the tension is not 
loose enough. 

Take-up. This part operates to take up the slack of, and cast 
off at the proper time, the lower or looper thread. The adjustment 
of the cast-off function will be found by raising or lowering the retain- 
ing wire, the points of which have their position in the central groove 
of take-up. 

To Adjust Nipper Springs. These serve to hold the looper 
thread tighter than the tension discs will do at the time of setting the 
stitch; they should close and nip the thread just as the take-up comes 



327 



34 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



up between the thread eyelets and touches the thread; again, when 
the looper has reached the end of its backward throw and is ready to 
come back, the nipper string shoukl be closed. If greater elasticity is 
desired, adjust the spring to nip a little later, by means of the adjust- 
ing screw in the lug directly underneath the free end of nipper spring. 
By raising or lowering this screw the nipper spring is made to nip the 
thread earlier or later, as desired. Both of these parts — take-up and 




Fig. 18. Merrow Plain Crochet Machine. 

nipper spring — are sensitive to a large degree, and should not be 
moved unless the adjuster is sure there is a reason for so doing. 

The Willcox & Gibbs "Overlock" machine, (see Fig. 5) combines, 
in one complete whole, the necessary mechanism to produce in one 
operation a trimmed, joined, and covered seam, and makes the "Over- 
lock" stitch. In appearance it is a radical departure from the long 
accepted type of sewing machine, chiefly owing to the absence of the 
familiar overhanging arm. This novel design is not unpleasing, 
however, and the machine is very strong and compact. 



828 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 35 

All the operating parts of the machine proper, are mounted on 
a single casting or frame, antl this frame with its several mechanical 
functions is hinged to a plain box casting, which serves as a rigid base 
or support, and is also a receptacle for the oil which drips from the 
bearings, thus preventing an unsightly oil-soaked work table. This 
arrangement of the various parts makes them easily accessible, and 
all parts can be reached either from the top of the frame or from the 
under side, which is presented to view when the frame is raised up 
and backwards on its hinges. 

Adjusiing. On the subject of adjusting, in relation to this 
machine, there seems to be a scarcity of matter which may be said 
or written, for in its design several functions which in the ordinary 
sewing machine have a latitude of adjustment are here found to be 
positive and permit of no change whatever. About the only possible 
adjustments are those for the length of feed, or stitch, the width or 
bite of seam, or over-edge, and the lower trimmer blade; also to a 
limited extent the tensions. The take-up and pull-off functions are 
positive and admit of no change. 

Tension. In all sewing machines there is prol)al)ly no one 
feature so extremely sensitive, or which, if changed ever so slightly, 
pn'oduces poor results so cjuickly as the tensions. When trouJ:)le is 
traced to the tensions, the first act should be to draw the discs apart 
and blow out the lint so that the discs may come closely together and 
not be hindered, l,y bunches of lint, from pinching the threads and 
doing their full duty. Other than tliis, little troul)le may be experi- 
enced with the tension mechanism. 

With the^Overlock" machine all of the tension nuts are restricted 
in their movement to less than one full turn, so it is evident that no 
very great error can result from poor adjustment within this limit. 
Furthermore, as the pull-off and take-up functions are constructed, 
any degree of tension that may be necessary to meet the different 
re(juirements of the stitch on light to heavy fabrics are found within 
this comparatively small range of tension movement. 

Width of Seam. The adjustment for width of trimming or bite 
has been made semi-automatic; that is, it is operative within certain 
predetermined limits at the will of the operator, and while the ma- 
chine is in motion. Tills is accomplished in a very convenient manner 
by means of a treadle connection to the trimmer adjusting arm, which 



329 



36 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



when actuated serves to alter the position of the trinimino; parts in 
relation to the line of needle punctures. 

This feature of the machine enables an operator to complete a 
garment with seams which vary in strength as required in different 
parts of the fabric. For example, a seam which is made along the 
side of a sleeve or drawer leg will be stronger than one made across 
the top or shoulder of a shirt, providing no change is made in the 
machine. In the first instance, the stitching is with the wale, or 
lengthwise of the fabric, where there is no tendency of the knitting 




Fiix. lit. Two-Thre;id Crofhet Fiuish uU \ ri y i\uni4ti iilelye. 

stitches to ravel out, so that a minimum width of seam or trim can be 
employed. 

In seaming across the top or shoulder, and around arm-holes or 
gussets, the stitching is laid either scjuarely or diagonally across the 
ends of the wales, where the knitting loops are exposed and extremely 
liable to unravel if not properly secured; therefore a wider seam is 
necessary. When it is desired to use this width-changing feature of 
the machine a thumb-pin is inserted in one of a series of holes in the 
trimmer-adjusting arm, back of a stationary stop, and when it is 
against the stop this pin is a limit for the narrow seam. Another 
thumb-pin placed in a hole in front of the stop, as far away as is 
necessary, to give the required change, will be a limit for a wide seam. 



330 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 37 

In operation this trimmer adjusting arm is held normally in posi- 
tion for a narrow seam by a spring, and when the treadle is depressed 
the trimming parts are moved to the position for a wide seam. 

Setting the Trimmer. In setting the trimmer blades for seam- 
ing, the cutting edge of the lower blade should be adjusted even with 
the top of the throat-plate, or needle-hole piece. For concealed stitch 
hemming this blade must be a trifle higher, and for both purposes the 
cutting edge of the upper blade must pass by that of the lower one a 
sufficient distance to ensure clean cutting of the fabric. The position 
of the upper blade is determined by a stop, so there is small chance 
for error. It is very essential that the trimming blades should be 




Fig. 20. Single Thread Crochet Finish, Hemming Edge. 

kept sharp, for if they are allowed to become dull no end of annoyance 
and bad work will ensue. 

Sharpening the Cutters. That the blades may be ground accu- 
rately there is furnished with each plant of "Overlock" machines a 
trimmer blade grinder. On the slide of this little machine a set of 
grooves has been milled to fit the respective upper and lower trimmer 
blades, and when in position the blades are held and presented to the 
emery wheel so as to give their cutting faces the proper angles. In 
shaping the ends of the blades be careful to have them fit the templets 
on the slide of blade grinder. 



331 



38 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



MERROW KNIT GOODS FINISHING MACHINES 

The Merrow Plain Crochet Machines, a type of which is ilhis- 
trated in Fig. 18, are made in several styles each adapted to produce 
a crochet finish upon the edges of various fabrics. Some of the 
finishes from the different styles of Plain Crochet Machines are illus- 
trated in Figs. 19 and 20. 

The Merrow Scallop or Shell Stitch iMachine illustrated in Fig. 
21 produces the two thread shell stitch finish about half an inch deep. 




Fig. 31. Merrow Scallop or Shell Stitch Machine. 

This finish is beautiful and substantial and is used upon a great 
variety of fabrics such as heavy knit goods, eiderdown garments, etc. 
Fig. 22 represents the shell stitch finish, full size, as made by the 
machine on knit goods. This machine is used to produce shells of 
two, three or four stitches each as a foundation finish, upon the edge 
of which a smaller shell finish is later made by another style of shell 
machine. 



332 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



39 



The smaller shell finish made by a variety of this machine, upon 
the edge of knit goods, is used separately for binding the edges of 




Fig. 2-:. Shell Stitch Finish, Full Size 

light-weight goods. On many classes of knit underwear two or more 




Fig. 23. Merrow Two-Thread Trimming and Over-Seaming Machine. 

courses of this finish can be used to great advantage. Braid, tape 
or ribbon is sometimes drawn under the foundation finish. 



333 



40 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

The jMerrow Two Thread Trimming and Overseaming Ma- 
chine, illustrated in Fig. 23, is primarily designed for overseaming 
two or more pieces of fabric together, and is provided with trimming 
devices for cutting off the edges of the goods simultaneously, and in 
advance of the overseaming operation, when overseaming, and for 
trimming off the surplus material at the edge of the goods, when edg- 
ing, and is also provided with devices for controlling the edge of the 
fabric in advance of the edging operation, and to facilitate the finish- 
ing of cuffs and other tubular goods. A variety of this machine pro- 
duces a three thread overseam stitch which is especially desirable as 
an edge finish. 

Another style of machine is for producing the blind stitch hem 
on the bottoms of shirts, etc., such as fleece-lined goods; while still 
another is especially adapted for producing the l)lind stitch hem upon 
the tops of stockings. 

PLAIN FINISHING MACHINES 

Operating and Adjusting. In the processes of trimming or finish- 
ing vests, shirts and drawers, the sewing machines used for these pur- 
poses, as well as those for the making or seaming operations, have 
now been brought to a high state of perfection, and the results ob- 
tained are very artistic and pleasing. While the obstacles to be over- 
come in this branch of the work are not so numerous or as difficult as 
in seaming, they are oftentimes troublesome, and the final appearance 
of the garment depends largely on the manner in which these machines 
are kept up to a proper performance of their work. 

In a general way, a few points in these finishing operations may 
be mentioned which seem to need particular attention. In the matter 
of feeding, for instance, if the material comes out having a puckered 
appearance, either in stitching on the bands or facings, but especially 
in binding, a truly finished effect is absent, and the cause of such work 
may often be traced to a poorly-working feed. Again, a machine may 
be making an excessively coarse stitch, which on fine garments, espe- 
cially, is very unsightly. This, of course, is easily remedied, and after 
the proper number of stitches to an inch is once decided upon, care 
should be taken to see that this standard is adhered to. 

The size of the needle also plays a part in the general eftect, for 
a needle which is larger than the thread calls for, leaves holes in the 



334 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 41 

comparatively hard facing or band fabric which the thread does not 
fill up properly, and oftentimes gives the impression that the holes 
have been made for rivets, with the rivets left out. 

Another point which is more of an individual than general nature, 
depending largely on the character of stitch m^ade by the machine in 
use, IS the laying of the stitch on the under side of the fabric, or inside 
of the garment. 

In every machine, whether it makes the lock, single chain or 
double chain stitch, there is a specific method of drawing up the 
thread on the under side, and perhaps this point in the adjvistment 
of a machine may be called the most important of all, for the design 
of the whole machine is dependent and made subordinate to the one 
feature of making the stitch, and surely a sightly appearance on the 
reverse side is just as important as it is to have the upper side correct. 
Then, also, if either of the threads is not drawn up properly a greater 
quantity of thread than necessary is being used. 

In the lock-stitch, which lays but a single thread on both sides, 
it is, of course, possible to obtain a like effect on the top and bottom, 
and that very easily, through the medium of tensions, provided all 
other functions of the machine are in normal condition. Owing to 
the old drawback, the winding of bobbins, always present in a machine 
of this kind, and their comparative slow speed, lock-stitch or shuttle 
machines are seldom used in finishing operations. It cannot be 
denied, however, that this stitch is strong enough for the purpose, not 
liable to ravel out, and presents a neat appearance on both sides of 
the fabric. Several of the concerns that build this class of machines 
have expended large amounts of money and inventive energy to over- 
come their inherent defects, and with considerable success. The 
Willcox & Gibbs, Standard, Wheeler & Wilson, and Singer com- 
panies have each recently brought out high-speed machines of this 
type, and in their design and construction several novel features have 
been introduced. 

The Willcox & Gibbs Lock Stitch Machine. (Fig. 24.) The ma- 
chine built by the Willcox & Gibbs Company is built on the well- 
known Willcox & Gibbs system, of the finest of material and work- 
manship, and is a long step forward in lock-stitch sewing mechanism, 
embodying high speed, perfection of stitch, perfect tension control, 
yet simple and durable, and easily adapted to handle the most deli- 



335 



42 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



cate of fal)rics, as well as the heaviest. The other machines of the 
type referred to also have points of excellence 

The type of machine used almost universally for finishing opera- 
tions on knitted underw^ear is the one which makes some form of a 
chain stitch. The reason for its use is that the threads may be led 
to the machine and used directly from large cones or spools, thus 
avoiding the constant stopping of the machine to replace the empty 
bobbins with newly filled ones, as is the case with shuttle or lock-stitch 
machines. The item of interruption in a day's work is not incon- 
siderable. 




Fig. 34. Willcox & Gibbs Lock Stitch Machine. 



The mechanical design and construction of the chain-stitch type, 
in the matter of continuous rotary motions, and strength and sim- 
plicity of parts, is more favorable to high speed than any lock-stitch 
type. For these reasons the chain-stitch machines are the most 
economical, both from the point of production, and care and expense 
of repairs. This stitch is also of advantage where an ornamental 
effect is desired, as on vest and drawer facings, or on the edge of 
binding. 

The Union Special Finisher. The finishing machine designed 
and built by the Union Special Machine Coiupany has found great 
favor for the latter class of work. They make either the two-thread 



336 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



43 



chain or "safe elastic stitch," or the single-thread chain stitch, and 
if so desired, the two types may be combined in one machine, for the 
basic functions of both are identical and the few necessary changes 
can be easily and quickly made. This point is of undoubted ad- 
vantage in the case of a small mill where the number of machines is 
limited, or when there is not enough work to warrant the investment 
for separate machines for each individual operation. In a large mill, 
however, it is much more economical to make this provision, for by 
so doing a machine when once adjusted to a nicety for its particular 




Fig. 25. Union Special Plain Finishing Machine. 

work may be left so, and not require any further care from the ad- 
juster. 

One stvle of Union Special machine has been designed for finish- 
ing knit drawers. It is built on lines similar to those just noted, and 
has the same general characteristics. In stitching on an inside band, 
where a silk finish is desired, this machine makes a beautiful, orna- 
mental stitch, greatly adding to the appearance of the garment. A 
large saving of silk is effected by using cotton thread in the needle, 
and silk, or a fitting substitute, in the looper, care being taken to 
adjust the tensions so that the upper, or cotton thread, will not show 
on the under side. 



337 



44 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

The Willcox & Gibbs Finisher. The WiUcox & Gibbs chain- 
stitch finishing machines are largely used for binding, being especially 
adapted for the purpose. These machines are furnished with the 
automatic tension, or with the ordinary friction discs, a tight wheel, 
or the two tight and loose pulleys for driving, and a feed surface with 
one or two lines of teeth. They may also be had with the registering 
or measuring tension. The object of the latter is to measure off and 
deliver to the looper the exact amount of thread required for each 
stitch, to uniformly draw up each stitch to any desired degree of 
tightness, and produce sewing that is perfectly smooth and even with- 
out any care on the part of die operator. It can be readily adjusted, 
and the resulting seam will be of unvarying strength and elasticity. 
The thread cutter attached to this machine is worthy of note, because 
it prevents the characteristic tendency of this type of stitch to ravel. 
By its use the thread is cut at the end of every seam when the work is 
taken from the machine, leaving an end of thread about three-eighths 
of an inch on the under side and drawn through the last loop, which 
"fastens off" the seam and prevents its ravelling. It can be made 
doubly secure by pulling this end, which is through the last loop, 
toward the sewing. The cutting is accomplished by a slight forward 
and backward movement of the hand wheel by the operator when 
the needle is brought to a position to allow the work to be taken out. 

The Singer Manufacturing Company build a single-thread, 
chain-stitch machine, having a similar method of forming the stitch, 
which has considerable room under the arm. It is similar in design 
to the machines of this type which have been described, differing in 
points of construction. The needle bar is driven by an upper rock 
shaft. This shaft lies back of the head-supporting arm, and its con- 
nection to the needle bar is completely covered in the head. Thus, 
no moving parts are here visible, and therefore are not liable to throw 
oil. The feed mechanism has positive movements, and the length 
of stitch is adjusted without the use of springs. This machine is 
furnished with the ordinary plain friction tension or an automatic 
device. 

Adjustments and Repairs. All machines of the single-thread, 
chain-stitch type are capable of a limited variation in laying the stitch 
through the medium of their tensions. The thread may be drawn 
closely to the fabric, thus forming a close or tight seam, or it may be 



338 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 45 

left in an elastic chain as desired. A beautiful stitch, resembling 
braid may be produced by using coarse silk, which is effective as an 
ornamental finish on facings or bands. By manipulating the tensions 
in this manner, many pleasing results may be obtained with both the 
one-thread and the two-thread types of chain-stitch machines. 

In making an ornamental edge on binding, it is customary to 
run the braid or binding through a machine directly from the roll, 
reeling it from a full roll on a pin in front of the machine to another 
one at the back. The operator who stitches this prepared binding 
to the garment will make the fold at the line of the ornamental stitch- 
ing, thus presenting a silk purl on the edge. 

All of the sewing machines which we have to deal with today 
have either spot screws or pins to confine the different parts in their 
proper functional relation with each other. This has been found to 
be absolutely necessary, and especially so with reference to high-speed 
machines ; for even those built on the most scientific principles would 
become disarranged by a few turns at the rate of 2,500 or 3,000 revo- 
lutions a minute. 

The location of these pins and spots on the shafts, studs, etc., is 
not determined until the most favorable relative positions of the 
several parts are fully established after many trials in the sewing-off 
or adjiisting room; and when finally fixed upon these points of regis- 
tration are exactly duplicated in every machine of the type in question 
by a set of accurate jigs and fixtures, many of them costing hundreds 
of dollars to design and build. 

In timing the loo'pers of chain-stitch machines of the Willcox & 
Gibbs type, the eye of the needle should be about ^ of an inch below 
the under side of the looper's hook, when the needle is at its lowest 
position. Then, as the needle starts upward and the looper point 
approaches it, these two implements should pass each other as closely 
as possible and not touch, with the needle's eye about one thirty- 
second of an inch below the under side of the looper's hook. This 
will ensure time enough for the needle to raise and throw out a good 
loop before the looper gets to it, and a good looper will then handle 
the thread during the succeeding stages of the stitch in a satisfactory 
manner. 

In setting the needle, the long groove must be at the left, or away 
from the looper point, and its shank should rest against the bottom 



339 



46 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

of the hole in the needle bar. If the eye of the needle is then not at 
its proper height in relation to the looper, as described above, it can 
be adjusted by the eccentric ball at the driven end of the needle-bar 
lever. In some of these machines it is possible to turn the needle in 
the bar, or the bar itself, which is an advantage when it is desired to 
throw the loop to or from the looper's point, thereby favoring the 
latter a trifle in handling different qualities of thread. Generally, 
however, the loop should throw out squarely with the line of 
feed. 

The looper is positioned in its rotary direction by a spot on its 
shank which receives a set screw in the shaft, and the only adjust- 
ment which is usually necessary for this implement is in its endwise 
position, to bring it to or from the needle. If it seems desirable to 
time the looper a trifle quicker or slower, this may be accomplished 
by changing the spot on its shank one way or the other with a fine file. 

When the needle and looper in this type machine are in their 
proper relation to each other, it will be found that the tension, once 
adjusted, will need but very little variation. Care must be taken, 
however, that it is not so tight as to destroy the elasticity of the stitch's 
varying thicknesses of material or a change of stitch to fine or coarse, 
may recjuire a slight alteration of the tension. 

In timing the loope- of the Union Special two-thread, chain- 
stitch machine, the eye of the needle, when in its lowest position, 
should be about three-sixteenths of an inch below the under side of 
the looper. The shank of the needle should rest against the bottom 
of the hole in the needle-bar, with the long groove in front or towards 
the operator, and securely fastened. If the eye is not at the proper 
height the bar can be raised or lowered in its driving connection. Care 
should be taken to use needles that are perfectly straight and have 
good points. The size of needle is determined by the thread used, 
a fine thread taking a small needle^ and so on. INIany times when a 
machine is working poorly, a larger size needle will handle the thread 
better and eliminate all the troul)le. 

The looper should be adjusted so that its point is one fourth of 
an inch from the needle when it is at its extreme throw to the right, 
and, in passing the needle on the back side, that the point will just 
clear the needle. This will ensure a good loop when the looper has 
advanced to meet it. When the looper makes its return throw to the 



340 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 47 

right, the needle must pass the back side of the looper with its point 
a Httle to the right of the looper's eye, in order to take and hold this 
looper-thread until the next needle-loop is secured by the looper, 
thereby locking or enchaining the previous stitch with the last one. 
In passing each other, the needle and looper should just clear on both 
strokes. 

These adjustments of the needle and looper may be varied a 
little to meet varying qualities of thread or material, but for ordinary 
conditions they are correct. Enough tension should be used on both 
threads to produce an even stitch, but if an elastic stitch is required 
the under tension should be considerably lighter than the upper. If 
either one fails to control the thread properly it may be found that a 
bit of lint has collected between the discs, thus holding them away 
from an even contact with the thread. 

When the under thread lies straight from the heel of the looper 
to the double-wire fork, and just before the approaching edges of the 
rotary take-up touch it, the nipper-spring should hold the thread 
fairly tight, for at this point in each revolution of the machine the 
required amount of under-thread for the stitch is determined. If it 
is desired to regulate this, it may be done by means of the set screw 
in the lug on the looper-rocker, the head of w^iich rests against the 
free end of the under nipper-spring, and taking its motion from the 
looper-rocker, serves to open and close the two nipper-springs in con- 
tact with each other. As the take-up revolves it will carry the thread 
upward and back, so that the retaining wire will catch and hold it 
until the slightly lower part of the take-up is in a position to allow the 
cast-off to take place. 

The duties which are required of a feed and presser-foot in this 
work are identical in all machines, so our treatment of these two func- 
tions will apply to both of the types under consideration. 

The top of the feed must be level and the teeth fairly sharp, but 
with no "hooks" or "burrs" on them. If the feed points seem to be 
too sharp, or cling to the fabric, a good remedy is to hold them against 
a revolving wire brush, just enough to smooth the points and not dull 
them materially. The rise of the feed surface above that of the cloth 
plate will vary within certain limits, according to the weight and 
texture of the material to be sewed, but for general work this should 
be about 1-32 of an inch. 



341 



48 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

.1 hinged pra^scr-foot is the best for nearly all classes of work, 
for it enables the seams of garments to pass between the feed and foot 
more surely, and will conform to the top of the feed in any position, 
thus ensuring a firm hold on the material from a minimum amount 
of tension on the presser-bar spring. In the operation of binding it 
will be found that the feed and presser-foot must be in good condi- 
tion, and in correct relation to each other. The presser-foot must set 
squarely on the feed points, with no side motion, and have an even 
contact on the cloth plate when the feed has dropped for its return 
stroke. If the goods have a tendency to run off sideways, in feeding 
through, it will probably be found that some one or more of the feed 
or presser-foot conditions are not right. 

General Adjustments. In the course of time, with all machines, 
it becomes necessary to give them something more than a somewhat 
superficial "setting in order," and a general overhauling is required. 
When one shows signs of excessive wear, a few new parts, and a gen- 
eral tightening up of joints and fits will restore the machine to a more 
efficient condition. An adjuster who watches his machine closely 
will detect the wearing points about them as they begin to appear, 
and by judicious attention here and there can postpone the time when 
a general overhauling will be necessary. 

The parts of all machines worthy of mention are manufactured 
in duplicate, so that a new part will replace one that has worn out 
without any fitting. New parts may be ordered from a catalogue of 
parts pertaining to the machine in question. 

IMany of the wearing parts are provided with means for taking 
up this wear as it occurs, but in the case of shafts and needle-bars 
this is not so, and when these parts become badly worn the only 
remedy is to replace them with new ones a trifle larger, and ream the 
holes to fit. For this purpose the shafts and bars are made in two 
or three different sizes, one being three or four thousandths of an inch 
larger than the original, and a third the same amount larger than the 
second one, thus providing for several renewals. 

The holes are enlarged by an expansion reamer, having a long 
pilot extending from both ends of the fluted cutting section. In using 
this tool care should be taken to ream the holes perfectly straight, 
and a very little at a time, in order to secure as good a fit as possible 
and keep the bearings in true alignment. 



343 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 49 

The Union Special Company has introduced a new method of 
mounting the needle-bar, which provides for a renewal of the worn- 
out bearings, as well as the bar, and also furnishes means to take up 
a limited amount of the wear before a renewal is absolutely necessary. 
In the construction of these bearings the two ears, or lugs, through 
which the needle-bar passes, are drilled and reamed out at the factory 
somewhat larger than the bar itself, and a thin shell, or bushing, is 
inserted, which is then the bearing. This bushing, and also the en- 
circling lugs, are split on one side, and by means of clamping-screws 
in the latter, the bushings may be collapsed a sufficient amount to 
meet the reduced surface of the bar. In case of renewal, these bush- 
ings may be discarded and new ones inserted to fit an original-sized 
bar, or they may be retained and re-reamed for the next larger one, 
as in the older method. The great advantage of the new system 
seems to be the clamping feature, which allows the wear to be followed 
up as fast as it occurs. 

MISCELLANEOUS MACHINES USED IN FINISHING 
KNITTED UNDERWEAR 

There are various operations in the finishing of knitted imder- 
wear that are performed differently, and with different machines, 
according to the system oi- custom in force in the mills. Some mills 
use for binding what is called a purl edge binding, made in the mill 
by running plain binding of most any kind through a Union Special 
Single Needle Ornamental Machine, oftentimes called Binding IMa- 
chine. This machine is built on the same lines as their drawer 
finisher with certain minor changes, and with attachments for holding 
and guiding so that the purl edge may be laid on in the middle of the 
binding as it passes through the machine. Oftentimes the machinist 
in the mill is ingenious enough to rig up an attachment for rolling up 
the binding as it comes from the machine. 

One of these machines arranged in the above manner, will, after 
being started, make the purl edge on the whole roll of binding with- 
out attention of an operator until a new roll is to be started. 

As drawer bands have to be stitched together, most mills have 
in their outfit a band stitcher. Any extra machine can be pressed 
into service for this purpose, though it is preferable to have a two- 
thread machine; it is often a W. & G. plain tension machine as any- 
thing else, and even sometimes an old line lock stitch machine. 



343 



50 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

A drawer strapping machine is important now, as many manu- 
facturers are sewing on suspender straps in a durable manner with 
machines especially designed for that particular purpose. While 
straps have been sewed on with plain single, and double thread, chain, 
and lock stitch machines, it has always been apparent that a zigzag 
lock stitch was the most desirable. The "Standard" have a machine 
for such a purpose, the Union Button Sewing INIachine Company and 
the "Singer" have a machine especially designed and adapted for 
sewing suspender straps on drawers and making stays and bars at 
recjuired places in union suits and ladies' vests. It fastens the strap 
securely, rapitlly and in a proper manner. 

Zigzag machines have been used for several purposes after being 
adapted more or less to the work required such as sewing in gussets 
of drawers, such a stitch covering the raw edge nicely, besides sewing 
it on securely. They are sometimes used for covering the edge of 
the cloth left raw after running the necks. Sometimes a zigzag stitch 
is used with good effect on the facings of garments, or for making bars 
at intersections or parting of the seams on drawers, union suits, etc. 

For covering the raw edge after running the neck, the Union 
Special Twin-Needle Machine makes a pretty ornamental stitch, as 
well as effectually covering it. It has two needles and one looper, 
leaving two parallel lines of stitching on the back and an interwoven 
fancy stitch over the raw edge of either silk, worsted or cotton thread, 
as preferred. It is the same stitch as made by the cylinder side-wheel 
covering machine, though the twin-needle machine, so called, for 
necking, is a regular flat machine. It is also sometimes used for 
catstitching, or wherever a pretty ornamental stitch is desired. Often 
it is called a Necking machine. 

Twin^nccdlc and tu-o-line machines are often confounded. Two- 
line machines make two separate rows of stitching on both back and 
front of work, and require two needles, two loopers or hooks, and use 
four threads. Two-needle machines are by no means always two- 
line machines. For instance, the so-called twin-needle or necking 
machine, has two needles, but only one looper, and consequently runs 
but three threads. The side wheel covering machine is similar as to 
needles, looper and number of threads. In fact, the covering machine 
is simply the twin-needle machine redesigned in the form of a cylinder 
machine to facilitate the handling of the work. 



344 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 51 

Two-line machines are used wherever it is desired to have a 
double row of stitching, as on the outside of drawer band — covering 
the back seam of drawers with tape — sewing on each side of the tape 
simultaneously, being fitted with a device for holding and guiding the 
tape properly. It is commonly called a Taping Machine. Wherever 
two-row work is required, two-line machines are desirable, because 
the lines of stitching are more likely to be parallel, more sightly, and 
the work turned off much quicker. Two-line machines are built 
almost any width between the rows, from 3-32 to 13-32 of an inch. 
Special widths are made from 13-32 to 21-32 of an inch. 

End sewing machines were formerly required, but where covered 
seams are made, and covered seams are almost universal, none are 
necessary. Almost any zigzag machine answers the purpose where 
such a machine is re(]uiretl, though there is a machine made especially 
for this piu"pose. 

Hemming machines are used for shirts or vests, on fiat goods, or 
rib-tails, either looped or stitched on, take the place of the hem. On 
ribbed goods, the hem is made on a machine designed for the pur- 
pose, the "concealed" stitch being much in favor, though edging 
machines are used for this finish in many instances. 

THE LOOPING OR TURNING=OFF MACHINE 

Within the province of sewing processes for elastic knitted fabrics, 
and the various more or less complex mechanisms with which they are 
severally executed, comes one which, in its final appearance, has the 
most satisfactory effect of all, from many standpoints. Yet, strange 
to say, its accomplishment is by means of a type of mechanism that is 
wholly at variance with all of the latter-day ideas which the modern 
sewing machine calls for. We refer to the familiar process of looping 
one piece of material to another, and as is well known, the finished 
product is nearest to perfection of anything in the art of joining two 
parts of a knitted garment. 

The beautiful flat effect which is obtained by this peculiar method, 
and the effectual merging of the sewing thread with those of the fabric 
itself are features which have effectually combined to continue this 
abnormally slow process in use at the present time. 

This looping machine — variously called looper, tuming-off ma- 
chine, or ribber — is extremely simple in construction, containing as 



345 



52 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



it does only the principal fundamental sewing-machine functions, and 
it has passed through but few radical changes since its inception years 
ago. Indeed, it requires no stretch of the imagination to recognize 
in its main feature-s those of the orginal Elias Howe hoop wheel feed 
model for a sewing machine. Even so, it is today the only practical 
device which will do its work perfectly, owing to the prime necessity 
of first impaling each individual knitted loop of both parts of the fabric 




Pig, 26. Beat tic's Lonper or Tiirning-Off Machine. 

to be united on a separate point or needle. It is from this peculiar 
fact that it is possible to cut, ravel, or trim, all surplus stock away from 
these loops before proceeding with the operation of sewing, thus pro- 
ducing in the opened-out joint, or seam, a result so perfect that the 
two parts thus joined will appear as one integral piece. Indeed, most 
people who wear such underwear think it is "knit that way," not 
knowing that the cloth comprising the body of a garment is knitted 



346 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 53 

on a circular machine, making a wale on one side only, and the firm 
but very elastic rib or cuff is knit on what is termed a rib machine. 
(Hence the term ribber previously mentioned as applied to one ma- 
chine for joining these two parts together.) The rib-knitting machine 
is built on an entirely different plan from the circular one in that it 
has two sets of needles, and produces wales on both sides of 
the fabric. 

In the rib machine, also, its needles are manipulated in and out 
of the yarn loops successively, as the fabric progresses in groups, 
which vary in number according to the desired width of rib or cuff 
being made, and as its motions are intermittent, the process of mak- 
ing this part of a garment is necessarily slow. 

In the circular knitting machine the process is, as its name im- 
plies, circular and therefore continuous. 

While the looper, or turning-off machine, is one where the oper- 
ator works constantly, it is also working constantly itself, if speeded 
to the operator's gait. To the uninitiated, looking at the operator 
sitting on a low seat, putting the toes of a stocking, or the parts of the 
fabric to be looped, on the points of the disc of the machine, stitch by 
stitch, one loop on each point, it may seem easy, but it is soon apparent 
that quick and strong sight and nimble fingers are required, and also 
that the machine is capable of running much faster than the most 
expert operator can place the loops on the points in the proper manner 
to obtain perfect work. 

Other Methods of Joining the Rib. From time to time devices 
and machines have been brought out that were designed as substitutes 
for, and to hasten this exceedingly slow process. Some of them have 
met with a fair amount of success for a time on certain classes of work, 
but none were acceptable on the finest grades of this fabric, so we 
still have the looping machine in almost its original form of forty 
years ago. 

Of all substitute methods and machines for this purpose, per- 
haps the most satisfactory has been the one of utilizing the"Overlock" 
stitch. This consists of placing a row of these stitches along the 
edge of each part of the fabric, to be joined in such a manner that 
their loops form two continuous selvedges, and a subsequent opera- 
tion will join them. This method is much quicker, stronger, and 
produces the desired flat seam. 



347 



54 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

Other devices have been the so-called pin-wheel sewing machines 
of different types. In this plan the familiar wheel of points to hold 
and carry the fabric to the needle was retained, but the necessity of 
impaling each knitted loop on a separate point was eliminated by 
providing an exceedingly fine feed, with the result that while some of 
the uniting stitches would be made between the wales of the fabric, 
each knitted loop would receive at least one. This method proved 
to be a great time saver, but lacked the finished appearance of the 
genuine looping method, and it is not now used to any great extent. 

Loopcr Trimmers. For the purpose of assisting the operator in 
her work, and to reduce the amount of time necessary for this opera- 
tion of looping, various automatic devices have been introduced, 
whose office is to remove the surplus material projecting above the 
feed-wheel points, and prepare the impaled loops of fabric for the 
final sewing operation. This had previously been required of the 
operator herself, and while it did not take a great deal of her time, 
an expert being able to cut and Ijrush away the ravelings very ciuickly, 
these attachments did show a percentage of saving by allowing the 
operator to devote her whole time to impaling the loops of the fabric 
on the looper points. 

These attachments operate in various ways, the most practical 
embodying a combination of the cutting and brushing processes. 
They have been arranged for use on both the old-style looper and 
several of the substitute pin-wheel machines. 

Straight-Bed and Circular Loopers. For convenience In handling 
the various classes of undergarments during the looping process, 
looping machines are made in two forms. One with a straight bed 
on which a row of work-holding points are mounted to project along 
one of Its sides, and having the stitch-making group of parts assembled 
on a traveling carriage. This form of machine holds the work 
stationary while the needle-looper, etc., are automatically moved 
along the bed from point to point after each stitch is completed. 

The other form of machine is a circular one. In which the work- 
holding points are mounted to project from the periphery of a disc 
about eighteen inches In diameter. In operation this disc Is given 
an automatic rotary feeding motion on Its axis after the completion 
of each stitch. Thus it will be seen that the operating functions of 
the process in the two forms of nlachine are exactly In reversed order, 



348 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



one holding the work in position, while the stitches are inserted pro- 
gressively along the prepared edge of the material, and the other 
proceeding reversely to carry the prepared edge to, and by a stationary 
group of stitch-forming implements. The first, or straight-bed form 
is more peculiarly adapted for use on what is called "full-fashioned" 
garments, and the circular form is most generally used for "cut 
goods." 

Character of the Stitch. In both forms of machine the stitching 
functions are practically alike, and produce the same finished result. 
By different arrangements of these parts in their relation to each 
other, and to the automatic feed, as to time, etc., several styles of 
stitch may be obtained, such as the "single stitch," "under and 
over," and "through and through" or "double stitch," and may use 
one or two threatls, each style of stitch having its peculiar advantage 
for the work in hand. In some makes 
of machine the needle, (always a curved 
one), works from the inside or butt end 
of the points, outward, and others work 
in the reverse direction. 

Operation. In setting up the cir- 
cular looping or "turning-off" machine, 
it must be fastened securely to a good 
table, similar in construction to the ^. _ ^ tj ■ . 

' Fig. 37. Looper Points. 

ones used for sewing machines. It 

need not be as wide, however, as it is never required for holding the 
work during this operation, and also because the full diameter of the 
disc, and several inches more must overhang the table's edge so as 
to be sure and provide ample space for the work to revolve while 
depending from the feed points. 

The two pieces to be sewed together or looped are fastened to 
the disc, so that one of the points shall pass through each of two 
courses of loops near the raw edges of the fabrics, which are in posi- 
tion with their faces together. 

The rotation of this disc will then bring each pair of loops in 
succession to a point of exact registration with the needle, which 
travels in the arc of a circle directly over and parallel with each point 
when in this position. A groove or depression in the top of the points 
will allow the thread-carrying needle to enter each pair of loops, and 



349 




56 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

in conjunction with a properly shaped looper, which operates in time 
to meet the needle's thread, the two fabric loops are securely and 
almost imperceptibly 'joined. 

In order that the machine may operate successfully and per- 
fectly, it is necessary to trim the raw edges of material down to the 
loops that are impaled upon the points. Unless this is done and all 
the raveled threads and loose waste be removed before passing under 
the needle, the seam will be made with an imsightly welt. 

The speed of the machine is limited to the ability of the operator 
in putting the loops of fabric on the points, and with those who are 
most expert it can never be run more than 300 or 400 stitches per 
minute. 

Adjustments. If the machine skips stitches, examine the needle. 
If broken or damaged beyond repair, replace with a new one. If the 
point is dull make it over with an oil stone, care being taken to have 
the lower side as low as possible, so as to ensure its entering the loop. 
See that the point of the needle registers exactly over the center of 
each point. Skipping is also often due to the hook or looper getting 
out of adjustment. When taking the looper from the needle, the 
looper must slightly rub the needle when passing over it. The needle 
may move too quickly or too slowly and thus be out ot time with the 
looper. When properly timed, the needle's point in entering the loop 
on the hook should be one-sixteenth of an inch from the hook, and 
just clear the heel of the looper. The hook, after passing away from 
the needle, will again move forward and pass under the needle, just 
touching it. The hook will be about one-eighth of an inch from the 
point brass when it is at its lowest drop. It is very essential to have 
the hook perfectly smooth and of such a shape as to keep the loop of 
thread from dropping off, and also to allow it to slip off easily before 
the needle enters the new loop. Keep the thread taut during the 
time the needle is passing through the loop. Have the thread rather 
too fine than too coarse for the needle. 

In order to replace a point, remove the brass section that covers 
the base of the imperfect one, and remove it with a quick pull upward, 
thus preparing the groove for the new point. Place the new point in 
position, and with a small staking tool drive it to its seat, then w^ith a 
hammer smooth the brass down around it, and finally replace and 
secure the covering brass in position. 



350 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



57 



The sewing mechanism must he timed with the points on the large 
disc, and if not exactly right their relative position may be changed 
by loosening the set screws in the main arm of the machiiie, and mov- 
ing the disc to its proper position. 

NAPPING KNIT GOODS 

Brushing. Brushing is generally done in a machi-ne similar to 
the one shown in Fig. 28. Many grades of goods are thus made to 
present a much more sightly and saleable appearance by being run 
through the garment brushing machine which raises the stock a 




Pig. 28. Garment Briishing Machine. 



little and gives the garment a soft and lofty feel and a more wooly 
appearance. It is customary to brush only the outside of the gar- 
ment, })ut in some instances it seems desirable, for selling purposes, 
to brush both outside and inside, and in other instances it is run 
through the brusher twice to get more of the woolly appearance. 
These machines are not intended to tear up a nap like napping ma- 
chines do, the rolls being made with stout, stiff bristles — instead of 
wire card clothing — that raises a light nap which has a tendency to 
give cotton or mixed goods more the appearance of wool. The 
process and the machine are shown in the illustration, and the samples 
of cloth shown indicate or illustrate the difference in appearance be- 
fore and after brushing, the wale of the cloth being almost covered 
up by the nap after brushing. 



351 



58 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



Napping. A thread is tied into the fabric when it is being 
knitted, for the express purpose of making the nap, but it does not 
really form a part of the fabric. On goods where the nap is worked 
out of the fabric, without this backing thread looped in, it really 
destroys much of the strength and durability of the fabric, hence the 
introduction of the backing thread. 

The great objection to napping on imderwear is the tendency 
of the small fibers to roll up into lumps, and to become detached from 
the fabric in use, or to accumulate into hard lumps in washing. A 
close felted nap does not exhibit this tendency in so great a degree 
as one that is long and combed out. 

The first nappers used on underwear made the nap by brushing 
with a rapidly revolving cylinder covered with a comparatively long 
straight tooth clothing which had a tendency to cut the loops and 
drag out the fibers into a long, hairlike fleece. This was objection- 
able on account of the amount of flocks detached from the fabric 
and the tendency of the nap to roll up or "pill," and led to the use of 
the teasle gig, similar to those for finishing woven fabrics. This 
gradually worked out a shorter, felt-like nap, but was too slow and 
expensive, and the teasles were superseded by wire clothed gig nap- 
pers. These are of two kinds, single acting gigs and double act- 
ing gigs. 

The single acting gig has a number of rolls journaled in a re- 
volving cylinder and covered with wire clothing, all the points being 
bent in one direction. Means are provided for turning the rolls on 
their axes independent of the movement of the gig. This was an 
advantage over the brusher but is no longer used for underwear, as 
the double acting machine is better. 

The double acting machine has the gig rolls in pairs, and a separ- 
ate motion is provided for controlling each set so that they can be 
driven at different speeds, or, as compared with each other, in difl'erent 
directions. 

The clothing also is of different shape, usually being straight or 
with a very slight pitch on one set of rolls and having a knee or sharp 
bend forward on the other set. The straight tooth or "carrier" rolls 
handle the cloth and hold it against the action of the bent tooth or 
"worker" rolls. They also help to release the fabric from the work- 
ers. The workers seem to dig into the fabric a certain distance when 



352 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



59 



the action of the carriers release their hold on the fabric and by repeat- 
ing this movement rapidly work out the fibers of the yarns composing 
the fabric, into a short heavy nap. 






On the Stafford & Holt Napping Machine, of which Fig. 29 is 
a view of the driving end, the gig runs contra-clockwise, or the top 
of the gig runs over toward the side where the cloth is fed in. The 
rolls in the gig turn in the opposite direction, that is, in a direction 
that will carry the cloth through the machine. The bent tooth rolls 



353 



60 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

arc governed by a large internal gear on the driving end of the machine 
and the straight tooth rolls are governed by the internal gear on the 
opposite end of the gig. The fnnction of the straight tooth rolls is 
to hold the cloth while the bent tooth rolls act upon it. They should 
be given enough speed to keep the cloth just slightly strained around 
the gig. A large change gear on the feed shaft loosens the cloth and 
a smaller one tightens it. 

With a 96-tooth gear on the sprocket stud it would require from 
a 48 to a 56-tooth gear on shaft. The napping is done principally 
by the bent tooth "worker." With a 110-tooth gear on the sprocket 
stud, and a compound intermediate of 52 and 26 it would require 
from a 50 to a 21 pinion on the shaft for napping. The smaller the 
pinion the harder it will nap, say 38 into 52 and 26 into 110, the 
52-26 being the compound intermediate, to be varied as required for 
the different fabrics and the character of the nap. 

Napping "faf goods, "straight-ribbed" goods and "jersey- 
ribbed" goods (or "fleece backs" and "plush backs") is better accom- 
plished on plmietari/ nappers, because they make a much shorter, 
thicker, and more evenly distributed nap than regular nappers, and 
give a more velvety feel. The nap obtained by this means is much 
less matted into knots or bunches by rubbing or washing, and the 
fabric handles much thicker and fuller, even after washing and use. 

rianctarij nappers contain, principally, a napping drum, a cloth 
feed roll, a series of napping-rolls mounted upon the drum and con- 
taining points inclined in the direction in which they act upon the 
cloth; crimper-rolls containing practically straight points mounted 
upon the napping drum and interposed in the series of napping-rolls, 
and a tension roll arranged to act on the cloth in advance of the nap- 
ping action. The plurality of series of nap-treating members are 
mounted upon the drum, so arranged that a differential action is 
produced between the members of one series and the members of 
another series. The result of this action on the cloth is somewhat 
analogous to felting, inasmuch as the napper rolls raise the nap, and 
the other series of rolls serve to bend or crimp the fibers and drive 
them in making a felt or "fleece." 

The mechanical construction of the David Gessner napper is 
described and illustrated to make the operation clear and compre- 
hensive. 



354 







o 



t/5 
Q 

o > 

H « 

z 

03 
(d 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



61 



Referring to Figs. 30, 31, 32, and 33. The frame is composed 
of the upright end pieces 1 V, connected at the bottom by the girders 




2 2', which are united again crosswise by brackets or stays 41 and 
41% and at the top by the girders 53 and 53' and carries upward 



357 



62 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

extensions 1'' T and horizontal member 1**, and a yoke on the side, 
marked 1". 

Number 3 is the main shaft, carrying the heads c c, on the outer 
periphery of which are mounted the napping-rolls a and the contact- 
rollers h, which are called "crimper-rolls," because their contact 
against the ends of the napped fibers serves to bend or crimp the 
fibers with a result which is analogous to felting. 

Number 4 is the fast pulley, by which the main shaft 
is driven, and 5 is the loose pulley. 6 is a pulley, fast on 
the main shaft, from which by the belt 52 is driven a pulley 
52'', fast on the inside of pulley 49, from which the shaft 47 is 
driven through the belt 50 and pulley 51. The stripper roll or fancy, 
48 is fast on the shaft 47. 

The napping-rolls a are covered with card clothing, the points of 
which are inclined in the direction in which they act upon the cloth. 
The crimper-rolls b are covered with card clothing having straight or 
radial points. The napping rolls, at their points of contact with the 
cloth, move in non-unison with the cloth, so that their points raise 
the nap. The two series of rolls act differentially, the napping series 
serving, as it were, to comb out the nap and the crimper series serving 
to crimp or felt the nap. 

The mechanism for driving the nafiper-roUs a consists of the 
disc 7, fast to the main shaft 3, the belt 8 and the conical roller 9 
co-operating with the disk, the shaft 10, upon which the conical roller 
is mounted, having its bearings in the brackets 11 and 12 and carry- 
ing at its lower end the pinion 13, which drives the gear 14, fast upon 
the counter-shaft 15. Upon this counter-shaft are fixed, on the in- 
side of the frame, sprocket-wheels 1(3, 16, (there being one for each 
end of the machine) from which, through the sprocket-chains 17, are 
driven the sprocket-wheels 18, 18, (there being one at each end of the 
napping-cylinder), fast to the spiders 19, which carry the belt 20, 
which passes around the series of pulleys a' , a' on the ends of the 
shafts a^ of the workers a. By raising or lowering the belt 8 any 
desired speed may be given to the workers a for increasing or decreas- 
ing their napping capacity independent of the speed at which the 
cloth may be running, and independent of the speed at which the 
travelers h may be running, and independent also of the speed at 
which the main shaft is running. 



358 



KxNIT GOODS FINISHING 



63 




359 



64 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



The mechanism for driving the cloth-feed rolls, of which 31 is one, 
is as follows: 21, 22 and 23 are sprocket-wheels fast to the main shaft. 
21', 22', and 23' are corresponding sprocket-wheels fast to the 




connter-shaft 24. 45 is the sprocket-chain, by shifting which from 
one pair of said sprocket-wheels to another the speed of the counter- 
shaft 24 may be varied with respect to the speed of the napping- 
cylinder. 25 is a pinion fast on the shaft 24 and which drives a gear 



360 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 65 

26, fast on the shaft 29. The pinion 27 is fast to the gear 26 and 
drives the gear 28, fast on the shaft 30, to which shaft the cloth feed 
roll 31 is fast. On the opposite end of the shaft 30 is fixed the sprocket 
46, from which may be driven all other cloth feed rolls in the machine. 

The entrance tension-roll 60 is driven as follows: On the shaft 30 
of the rear draft-roll 31 is fast a sprocket-wheel 61, which drives a 
chain 62, which drives a sprocket 64, fast on a shaft 65, carrying a 
cone 67, which drives a belt 68, which drives cone 69, fast on shaft 70 
of the entrance tension roll 60. The chain-idler 63 serves as a take-up 
for chain 62. By shifting the belt 68 on the cones 67 and 69, the 
speed of the entrance tension-roll 60 may be varied at will relatively 
to the speed of the other feed-rolls and traveler-rolls. This adjust- 
ment is a feature of the utmost importance, because it vastly increases 
the scope of the machine with respect to the range of materials which 
may be successfully treated by the workers a. For the purpose of 
enabling this adjustment to be made while the machine is running, 
and to be regulated to a nicety, the following mechanism is provided, 
whereby the operator may shift the belt 68. 71 and 72 are belt-forks 
fastened to the carriage 73, which is made to slide upon ways on the 
bracket 74, fast to bracket 41. By a screw-spindle 76, with hand 
wheel 75, nut 77, fast to carriage 73, is moved so as to shift said forks 
and belt 68 at will by the operator while the machine is running. 

By the adjustment last described the tension of the fabric being 
treated can be regulated to suit very tender fabrics, which by too great 
u tension are liable to be torn or stretched and narrowed, and by too 
little tension are liable to be dragged forward by the workers a, and 
thus slacked up in a manner causing disaster. 

The mechanism for driving the criviper-rolls h is as follows: Upon 
the opposite end of the shaft 29 from the gear 26 is fixed a pinion 32, 
which drives a gear 33, turning upon a stud 56. The gear 34 is 
fastened to the gear 33 and drives gear 35, fixed on the shaft 36, 
having its bearings upon stays or brackets 41 and 41". The pulleys 
37, 37, are fixed on the shaft 36 and drive the belts 38, 38, which 
extend around the pulleys h at opposite ends of the crimper- 
rolls h. These belts 38, 38, run under the idlers 39, 39, and over the 
idlers 43, 43, respectively, so as to substantially encircle all of the 
travelers h. Whenever the chain 45 is shifted from one pair of 
sprocket-wheels to another for the purpose of varying the speed of 



361 



66 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



the cloth relatively to the speed of the main shaft, a corresponding 
variation will be produced in the speed of the belts 38, 38. There- 
fore any change in the speed of the cloth feed rolls, as 31, will be 
accompanied by a corresponding change in the speed of the crimper 
rolls b. 

In the particular form of this machine the mechanism above 
described is so proportioned that the surface speed of the cloth feed 
rolls, as 31, is substantially the same as the surface speed of the 
crimper rolls h, which surface speed of the crimper rolls b is the 
resultant between the speed of the crimper rolls b upon their own 
axes and the speed at which they are carried bodily by the cylinder- 
heads c. In other words, if the diameter of each pulley b' is the same 
as the diameter of their respective crimper rolls b the belts 38, 38, 
may have substantially the same speed as that at which the cloth 
being treated is traveling through the machine. 

The relationship between the speed of the crimper rolls and of 
the feed is maintained constant in the operation of the machine not- 
withstanding and independently of any variation which may be made 
in the speed of the working rollers a or of the main shaft. The shaft 
29 constitutes a common actuator for the cloth feed rolls and the 
crimper rolls. The connections between this common actuator 29 
and the cloth feed rolls, as 31, are invariable. Likewise the con- 
nections between this common actuator 29 and the crimper-rolls b 
are invariable, so that for a given speed of this common actuator a 
corresponding speed will be communicated both to the crimper rolls 
and the cloth feed rolls, and the speed of one will be invariable with 
respect to the speed of the other. In the connections, however, by 
which the common actuator is driven the shifting of the sprocket- 
chain 45 affords a speed adjustment whereby the speed of the common 
actuator 29 may be varied with respect to the speed of the other parts 
of the machine. 

The belt 38 can be taken up and tightened by turning the hand- 
wheels 80, which are screw-threaded to the rods 81, that engage, 
respectively, with the swing-arms 82, which are loosely mounted on 
shaft 36 and carry on their free ends the idlers 43. 

The broken line (/ indicates the cloth being treated. In leaving 
the napping-roUs it passes under a roll 55, fast to the two idlers 39, 39, 
and turned with them at the same surface speed as the surface speed 



362 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



07 



of the crimper rolls h by the power of belts 38, 38. Thence it passes 
under and partly around the feed-roll 31, under the weighted roll 54, 




upward and over the driven feed roll 57, over the idler 58 (overhead 
of the operator) and driven feed roll 59, whence it is delivered 



363 



6S KXIT GOODS FINISHING 

through the folder 59'. behind the operator. The ehain 9G is held 
taut by the idler 91 and drives the shaft 93, to whieh the feed roll 57 
is fixed. Thence the driving power is transmitted through chain 92 
to shaft 94, on which feed-roll 59 is fixed. Thence the driving power 
is applied to vibrating the folder 59* through the wheel 59'' and con- 
necting-rod 59^ 

The cloth enters the machine under the bar 83 and over the 
adjustable tension-bar 84, the adjustment of which is controlled by 
segment 85, catch 86, and hand lever 87, at the end of the bar 83. 
Thence it proceeds under idler 88, over the tension roll 60, under 
and around idler 89, directly in front of the napping cylinder. The 
idlers 88, 89, and the tension-roll 60 are mounted in brackets 90, 
which are fastened to brackets 41 and 4r, extending across between 
the girders 2 and 2 '. 

The directions of movement of the drum-cylinder of each series 
of napping-rolls, and of the cloth, are respectively indicated by the 
arrows 100, 101, 102, and 104. The direction in which the brush 48 
moves is indicated by the arrow 103. 

The result is a nap much shorter, thicker, more evenly' dis- 
tributed, and more like a felt or "fleece" than the nap raised on a 
regular napper, the fabric handling much thicker and fuller even 
after washing or use and much less liable to become matted into 
bunches by rubbing or washing. 



364 



REVIEW QUESTIONS. 



PRACTICAL TEST QUESTIONS. 

In the foregoing sections of this Cyclopedia nu- 
merous illustrative examples are worked out in 
detail in order to show the application of the 
various methods and principles. Accompanying 
these are examples for practice which will aid the 
reader in fixing the principles in mind. 

In the following pages are given a large num- 
ber of test questions and problems which afford a 
valuable means of testing the reader's knowledge 
of the subjects treated. They will be found excel- 
lent practice for those preparing for Civil Service 
Examinations. In some cases numerical answers 
are given as a further aid in this work. 



865 



KE'S^IETV QUESTIONS 

OiV THE SUBJECT OF 

Iv:nitting. 

PART I. 



1. How is the guage determined ? 

2. What style of outside circles do you consider most 
advantageous, and wliy? 

3. How is a lleeced lined fabric made ? 

4. Explain the function of the cleai-ing bur. 

5. Where would you begin to set a feed? 

6. How would you prevent the needles loading up ? 

7. What are the three things to be considered in preparing 
to make Single Plush? 

8. What ought to be first done when a Winder runs hard? 

9. What is the method of determining the weight of the 
yarn ? 

10. Having less than 50 yards of woolen yarn how would you 
find the size or run? What is the run and cut of 12 inches of 
woolen yarn whioh weighs 1 '^ grains ? 

11. Why is the Winder a necessaiy machine in a Knitting 
Mill? 

12. What are the piincipa'. differences in Spring Needle 
Machines ? 

13. Describe the function of the take-up. 

14. How many burs in a plain feed arc located inside the 
fabric on the needles, and what are they ? 

15. What objects are to be considered in determining the 
proper speed to run the cylinder ? 

16. What three objects ought a Knitter to keep in mind? 



367 



REVIKTY QUESTIOXS 

ON THE S TJ B .1 K C T OK 

Iv X I T T I X O . 

PART II. 



1. What effect does tuckiiii;" tlie stitcli have on the fabric? 

2. Describe a antl 2 rib. 

3. How is the tuck stitch made in automatic machines ? 

4. Pcscribp what you consider the best method to even the 
stitcli. 

5. How does the royal rib or tuck stitch differ from plain rib 
knittin<^ ? 

(). State the essential difference between a Plain and an Auto- 
matic Machine. 

7. What is the pattern chain used for ? 

8. How are ribbed goods distinguished from flat goods? 

9. What are the important members of a rib knitting machine ? 

10. If you desired to slacken the fabric, how would you proceed ? 

11. What extra work is done by the needle when tucking? 

12. What is the take-up and what are its functions? 

13. What is the advantage of tlie sectional cam ring? 

14. IMcntion two conditions that will cause dropped stitches. 

15. Describe the action of the hole and bunch detector. 
IG- How would you set a yarn guide or carrier ? 

17. How nuich space is it good practice to leave ordinarily be- 
tween the needle cylinder and needle dial plate ? 

IS. How would you proceed in replacing a press-off? 

19. What are the advantages of the new method of measuring 
knitting machines ? 

20. Ciive a short description of how you would proceed to start 
up a machine that had been stopped for some time. 



368 



REVIEW QUESTIONS 

O?^ THE STTUJECT OF 

KNITTING. 

PART III. 



1. \Miat is the difference between a Stationary Needle Cylin- 
der Machine and a Revolving Needle Cylinder jMachine? 

2 ^Miat is the characteristic difference between the Leigh ton 
Machine and those common to the rib knitting type? 

3. Describe the formation of the stitch on the Lamb Machine 

4. How do common locks differ from cardigan locks? 

5. How would you set a yarn guide on a Stafford & Holt Ma- 
chine? 

6. Give a short description of starting up a Scott & Williams 
Stationary Cylinder Machine. 

7. Wliat would you do in case the work persisted in rising 
up on the needle in a Lamb Machine? 

8. How does knitting the royal rib or tuck stitch differ from 
knitting the plain rib? 

9. How is the stitch adjusted on the Lamb Machine? 

10. Describe the usual way of testing the amount of yarn the 
feeds are drawing and explain how they are adjusted. 

IL How would you make a separating course on a Leighton 
Machine ? What is it for ? 

12. How is a needle removed from the Lamb Machine? 

13. Name some of the conditions wliich affect the speed at 
which a machine may be run. 

• 14. Describe the action of shogging the stitch on the Leighton 
IMachine. 

15. What is the characteristic feature of the Lamb Machine? 
13. Describe the functions of the latch openers. 



369 



REVIETV QUESTIONS 

ON THE SUBJECT OF 

K :N I T T I iN^ G . 

PART IV. 



1. How is the fashioning or shaping to the leg done on a 
circular latch needle knitter? 

2. How is the fashioning or leg shaping done on a fiat 
rotary frame? 

3. How would you change the size of stockings? 

4. Describe the difference in the character of fabric made 
by tight and loose by knitting. 

5. Why is it necessary to have different numbers of slots 
in needle cylinders? 

6. What function do the sinkers perform? 

7. What are the primary elements of the circular knitting 
machine? 

8. How many movements are necessary to the needle 
cylinder in knitting a stocking? 

9. Wherein is the two-and-one method of making heel and 
toe superior to the one-and-one method in circular machine 
knitting? 

10. Describe the operation of the lifting pickers in the 
Acme machine. 

11. In what respect does the circular ribbing machine 
differ from the circular stocking machine? 

12. AVhat is a slack course? 
iS. What is a welt? 

14. How is a welt made? 

15. Which fabric is the more elastic, that knit on the 
circular latch needle frame or that of the straight rotary spring 
needle frame? 



370 



INDEX 



T he page numbers of this volume will be found at the bottom of the 
pages; the numbers at the top refer only to the section. 



macliine 


226 




154 


ig machine 


107 




79 


r machine 


107 




loS 




155 



Page 
A 

Acme circular linittinj: 
Adjusting 

feed . 

pressure on kuittinj 

stop motion 

tension on Icnitting 

yarn guide 
Adjustment of dial cap 
Adjustment and operation of finishing 

macliines 313 

Adjustment and repair of single-thread 

maclaines 33S 

Afghan stitch 185 

Automatic stop motion 121 

B 

Backing burs 60 

Backing cloth S3 

Bobbin, diameter of 14 

Bobbin rack 120 

Broken needles ISO 

replacing 246 

Broken stitches, mending of 218 

Brushing knit goods 351 

Building motion 15 

Bur and wheel adjustment 71 
Burs 

I^acking 60 

feed 58 

inside 58 

setting of 72 

sinker 73 



Calculation of yarn weights 28 

Cam cylinder 238 

Note. — For page n umbers see foot of pages. 



rage 

Cam dial plate 142 

Cam rings 113, 147 

adjustment of 116 

Cam stops 1 S7 

Cam-surface measurement 01 

Cams 113, 1S2, 209 

cap 150 

cylinder 147 

dial 150 

heart 16 

knock-off 182 

land 149 

rest 149 

ring 147 

stitch 148 

tuck 149 

Cap cams 1 50 

Cap plate 116. 150 

Cardigan jacket machine 165 

Cardigan locks 1 S7 

Chain actuating mechanism • 139 

Changing length of stitch 243 

Circular latch-needle kintting machine 205 

Circular looping machine 

adjustment 350 

operation of 349 

speed of macliine 350 

stitch, character of 349 

Circular rib knitting machine 109 

adjustment of cam ring 1 1 6 

automatic knitting mechanism 117 

automatic stop motion 121 

bobbin rack 1 20 

cam dial plate 142 

cam rings and cams 113 

cap plate ne 

chain actuating mechanism 139 



371 



II 



INDEX 



Page 



Page 



Circular rib knitting macliine 

dial cap and cams 

dial rise cam 

drivers 

formation of stitch 

guard cams 

liead and cam ring 

hole and bunch detector 

lengthening stitch 

loading up needles 

making loose course 

making welt 

needle cylinder 

needle dial 

needles 

removing section of cyhnder or 

revolving needle cylinder 

sliortening stitch 

Stafford & Holt 

starting up 

take-up 

tuck stitch 

worm gear take-up 

yarn guide 
Circular ribbed sweater color 
Classification of knitting 
Cleaner-rail 
Closing a selvedge 
Closing wind for finer yarns 
Cloth wheel 
Collarette 
Cone winder 

Cone winding on knitting machine 
Cotton friction 
Cotton t j'pe machine 
Cotton yarns, numljering of 
Crochet machine 
Cut presser work 
Cylinder 

cam 

skeleton 

stop motion for 
Cylinder cams 

readjusting 
Cylinder spring needle knitting 
Cylinder spring needle machines 
Note. — For page numbers see foot of 



115 


David Gessner napper 


354 


116 


Defective needle 


179 


114 


Determining weight of yarn 


26 


124 


Dial cap 


115 


116 


adjustment of 


155 


142 


Dial 


159 


122 


Dial cams 


150 


130 


Dial needle plate 


162 


134 


Dial rise cam 


116 


135 


Diameter of bobbin 


14 


136 


Double chain stitch machine 


320 


112 


Double flat web 


185 


114 


Double gears 


15 


124. 140 


Double plush feed 


65 


dial 132 


Drawer strapping machine 


344 


109 


Drive spindle 


15 


130 


Driving, method of 43, 


23S 


109 


Droppers 


237 


125 


Dropping stitches 


178 


119 
135 


E 




140 


Endwise motion 


21 


124 


Evans friction cone drive 


23 


165 
11 


Evening the stitch 

Evils to look for and remedy in knitting 


78 
75 


21 


F 




218 


Fabrics, slackening of 


156 


106 


Fancy hosiery 


271 


73 


Fashioning needles 


222 


S3 


Faulty moulds 


40 


11, 13 
102 


Feed 

adjusting of 


62 
154 


double plush 


65 


21 


plain 


63 


280 


single plush 


63 


35 


Feed biu-s 


58 


332 


Finishers 




79 


Union special 


336 


45 


Willcox & Gib))s 


338 


238 


Finishing flat goods 


300 


237 


arrangement of tables 


305 


67 


cutting to shape 


302 


147 


equipment and arrangement for 


301 


15S 


equipment for finishing 100 dozen 


306 


11 


finishing machine table 


308 


37 


finishing processes 


303 



872 



INDEX 



III 



Page 



Fiuishing flat goods 




turning the cloth 


300 


anion special system 


307 


Finishing machines 




adjustment and operation of 


313 


feed 


317 


high-speed 


318 


looper 


31G 


needle for 


315 


plain 


315 


skipping the loop 


317 


skipping stitches 


318 


tlu-ead breaking 


318 


two-tliread 


318 


Fitting yarn guides 


150 


Flat goods, napping 


354 


Flat head circular knitting machine 


170 


dial needle bed 


172 


method of driving 


170 


racking mechanism 


172 


separating course 


175 


tuck, or royal rib stitch 


170 


welts 


170 


Flat head knitting machine 


17S 


Footing rib legs, setting up pattern for 


248 


Formation of stitch in rib-knitted goods 


94 


Friction, cotton 


21 


Friction cone drive 


23 


Full automatic knitters 


226 


operation of 


227 


Full cardigan stitch 


100 



Page 



G 

Gainer meclianism on knitting machine 

Gauge of leaded needle cylinder 

Gearing 

Gears 

Gibs . 

Gig nappers 

double-acting gig 

single-acting gig 
Gloves, knit 

Growth of knitting industry 
Guard cams 

Guide delivering yarn on knitting ma- 
chine 
Guides, tlu-eading 

Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 



104 
40 

ICO 
15 

ISS 

352 
352 
103 

295 
110 

104 
152 



H 

Half-cardigan stitch 

Hand machines for knitting stockings 

cams 

changing heads 

knitting foot 

knitting heel 

knitting toe 

needle cj-linders 

needles 

operation of 

regulating stitch 

rib tops 

setting up work 

take-up spring 

yarn carrier 

yarn guide 
Hard yarns 
Head and cam ring 
Heart cam 
Hemming macliines 

Hemphill full automatic ribbing machine 
Hole and bunch detector 
Hosiery, fancy 
lace effects 
open naesh work 

stockings with open or lace work 
Hosiery knitting 

hand machhies .for 



1 



Inside burs 
Inside circles 



Joining the rib, methods of 



luiit gloves 

making second finger 

making thumb 
Knit goods finishing 

color scheme of garment 

fabric 

making up samples 

selection of materials 

st ylo of finish 



207 

209 

213 

217 

215 

217 

210 

212 

208 

210 

214 

213 

209 

209 

209 

12 

142 

16 

345 

253 

122 

271 

289 

289 

275 

2C5 

207 



58 



347 



193 
193 
194 
205-364 
300 
297 
297 
298 
299 



373 



IV 



INDEX 



rago 



Page 



Knit goods finishing 




J^umlj kmtlmg machine 




St yle of garment 


299 


position of needles 


183 


yarn 


297 


tubular web 


185 


Ivnit goods, napping 


351 


Land cam 


149 


Ivnitted underwear 


295 


Lander, setting of 


73 


I\jiitters, full automatic 


226 


Latch needle circular knit ling machines 


89 


Knitting H- 


-293 


flat liead 


89 


classification of 


11 


revolving needle cylinder 


89 


cylinder spring needle 


U 


stationary needle cylinder 


SO 


hosiery 


205 


Latch needle knitting 


89 


latch needle 


89 


I^atch openers 


188 


mitten 


217 


Leaded needle cylinder, gauge of 


40 


sock 


194 


I^eaded needles, setting of 


70 


speed of 


68 


Leighton flat-head latch needle machine 


161 


stocking narrowed in back 


198 


Lcighton knit-web turning machine 


302 


Knitting indtistry, growth of 


295 


Leighton macliine, starting up 


178 


Knitting machine 




Lifters 


237 


Acme circular 


226 


Lifting pickers 


231 


adjusting pressure on 


107 


Linen yarn, numbering of 


35 


adjusting tension on 


107 


Lock stitch macliine 


320 


automatic 


220 


WiUcox & Gibbs 


335 


circular rib 


109 


Locks 


187 


cone winding 


102 


automatic drop 


187 


flat head circular 


170 


automatic tubular 


187 


gainer mechanism 


104 


Cardigan 


187 


guide delivering yarn 


104 


common 


187 


Lamb 


183 


Looper trimmers 


348 


meastirement of 


91 


Looping machine 


345 


micrometer adjustment 


105 


Loose coin-se, making 


135 


short carriage 


,185 


M 




tlu-eading of 


107 






universal winder 


102 


IMacliines 








automatic knitting 


220 


Knitting rib fabric 


100 










cylinder spring needle 


37 


Ivnittinc: rib top stockings without re- 








^ 




double chain stitch 


320 


moving needles 


214 










drawer strapping 


344 


Knitting the stitch 


98 










finishing 


315 


Knitting stocking 


198 










henuiiing 


345 


hand machines for 


207 










knit web turning 


302 


operation of 


249 


lock stitch 320 


, 335 


Knitting yarn tables 


26 










looping 


345 


Knock-off cams 


182 










ilerrow plain crochet 


332 


Knots in yarn 


ISO 










Merrow scallop 


332 


L 




Jlerrow two-tliread trimming 


334 


Lamb knitting macliine 


183 


napping 


353 


afghan stitch 


185 


ornamental 


343 


carriage 


183 


ovcrlock stitch 


321 


double flat web 


185 


rib top 


25J 


Note. — For page 71 umbers see foot of pages 









374 



INDEX 



Pago 



■Fage 



IMachines 








Numbering of 






ribbing 






250 


cotton yam 




35 


single-thread 






338 


linen yarn 




35 


trimming 






325 


worsted yarn 




35 


turning-off 






345 








two-cylinder leaded spring needle 


37 


O 






zigzag 






344 


Operation of knitting stocking 




249 


Measiu-ement of knitting machines 




91 


Outside circles 




53 


Mending broken stitches 






218 


Overlook machine, Willcox & Gibbs 




328 


Merrow plain crochet machine 






332 


Overlock stitch maclune 




321 


Marrow scallop or shell-stitch machi 


hie 


332 








Merrow two-thread trimming 


and 


over- 




P 






reaming machine 






334 


Pattern wheel system 




239 


Methods of driving 






238 


Payne cone winder 




13 


Micrometer adjustment on knitting 


ma- 




Pickers 




231 


chine 






105 


Plain feed 




63 


Miscellaneous machines used i 


u finishing 




Plain finishing machines 


315 


, 334 


knitted underwear 






343 


operating and adjusting 




334 


Mitten 








Plain Imitting machines 




91 


knitting 






217 


Planetary nappers 




354 


knitting the thumb 






193 


Plated goods 




165 


setting up 






191 


Plating 




79 


Mould 








Preplace press-off 




151 


faulty 






40 


Presser 




74 


needle 






39 


Presser stand 
Press-up a machine 




54 

151 


N 








Purling 




98 


Nappers 








R 






clothing for 






352 






David Gessner 






354 


Racked stitch 


164, 


175 


planetary 






354 


Racking plates 




187 


Napping 






352 


Ratch screw tlu-ead 




21 


flat goods 






354 


Ravelling work in knitting machine 




200 


knit goods 






351 


Readjusting cylinder cams 




158 


Narrowing 






229 


Reel yarn 




32 


Narrowing comb 






98 


Removing needle from laiitting machine 


200 


Needle cylinder 112. 


210, 


234. 


258 


Removing section of sectional cam i 


ring 


158 


Needle dial 






114 


Replacing a broken needle 




24G 


Needle mould 






39 


Replacing a sinker 




247 


Needles 




124. 


212 


Rest cam 




149 


for backing work 






40 


Revolving needle cylinder 




109 


defective 






179 


Rib fabric, knitting 




100 


fashioning 






222 


Rib knitting 




94 


loading up 






134 


Rib top machine 




251 


operation of 






140 


Ril)bing machine 




250 


taking out 






219 


changing operation of picking finger 


266 


threading of 






74 


changing yarn 




2GG 


Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 











875 



VI 



INDEX 



Page 



Page 



Ribbing: machine 

heel and toe 

knitting cams 

latch-guard ring 

lift rod 

method of driving 

needle cylinder 

pattern chain 

picker 

picking 

sinkers 

yarn-changing devices 
Richelieu ribs 
Ring cams 
Rockshaft 
Royal rill stitch 



Short carriage knitting machine 



9S. 



S 



Scott 



& AVilliams circular latch-necdle 
atitomatic machine 
Scraper guide 
Screw tlu-ead, ratch 
Selvedge, closing of 
Setting 
bin's 

leaded needles 
trick needles 
Setting-up new knitting machine 
Setting-up pattern for 
footing rib legs 
socks 
stockings 
Shogged stitch 164 

Short carriage knitting macltine 
adjusting and operating 
adjusting the tension 
automatic drop locks 
automatic tubular locks 
buckle 
cam stops 
Cardigan lock 
common lock 
formation of stitch 
gibs 

hands, eccentric, nuts, and levers 
jack 

latch openers 
locks 
Note. — For page numbers sec foot of pages 



260 


loosen stitch 


190 


259 . 


operation of needle 


189 


265 


position of needles 


190 


267 


racking plates 


187 


254 


tension take-up 


189 


25S 


tliroat of 


186 


254 


tighten stitch 


190 


262 


weights 


188 


261 


yarn guide 


187 


264 


Singer single thread chain-stitch machine 


338 


265 


Single plush feed 


63 


102 


Single thread machine 




147 


adjustment of looper 


340 


IS 


adjustment and repairs 


338 


177 


general adjustment 


342 




looper 


340 




setting needle 


339 


147 


timing loopers 


339 


23 


Sinker 


228 


21 


Sinker bm- 


73 


218 


Sinker cam ring 


236 




Sinker stand 


54 


72 


Sizes of yarns for diflerent cylinders 


212 


70 


Skeleton cylinder 


237 


70 


Slackening fabric 


156 


246 


Smash 


12 




Socks 


104 


248 


goring 


197 


248 


knitting of 


194 


247 


knitting cap for heel 


196 


4, 175 


knitting heel 


195 


185 


knitting larger sizes 


198 


189 


length of foot 


198 


190 


length of heel 


195 


187 


length of leg 


195 


187 


narrowing comb for 


198 


189 


narrowing off toe- 


198 


187 


setting-up pattern for 


248 


187 


Speed of knitting 


68 


187 


Spindle drive 


15 


189 


Spindles 


18 


188 


Stafford & Holt circular-rib knitting ma- 


189 


chine 


109 


186 


Stafford & Holt napping machines 


353 


188 


Stand 




1S7 


presser 


54 



376 



INDEX 



VII 



Pago 
Stand 

sinker 54 

Starting and adjusting macliinery 74 

Starting machine 74 

Starting new Icnitting machine 246 

Stationary needle cylinder machines 147 

starting up and adjusting 150 
Stitch 

clianging lengtli of 243 

dropping of 178 

full cardigan 100 

half-cardigan 98 

royal rib 98 

Stitch cam 148 

Stockings, setting pattern for 247 

Stop motion 22 

adjusting of 74 

automatic 121 

for cylinder 67 

Stopping mechanism 244 

Straight-bed and circular loopers 348 

Straight hosiery frames 279 



Tables 

children's imderwear, selecting of 69 
circumferences of cylinders in inches 

and feet 43 

flat goods, sizes for 69 

gauze and needle space sizes 42 

gearing and driving 161 
gearing of Tompkins leaded needle 

machine 69 

gloves, sizes for 194 

knitting, speed for 68 

machine, number of needles in 160 

mitten, sizes for 193 

single worsted yarn weight 37 

spring woolen underwear, size of 70 

stockings, sizes of 199 

weight in grains of yarn, any cut 31 

weight in grains of yarn in runs 28 

yarn, knitting 26 

yarn, numbering 35 

yarn, size of 26 

yarn standards 27 
yarns used in Branson machine, sizes 

of 220 

Note. — For par/e numbers see foot of pages. 



Page 
Tension 14, 23 

Tension of machine 323 

Tension on yarn in knitting 104 

Tlireading guides 152 

Tlireading of knitting machine 107 

Tlireading needle 74 
Tompkins two-cylinder leaded spring 

needle machine 37 

Trick 39 

Trick needles, setting of 70 

Trimming machine 325 

Trimming the seam 324 

Trunnions 22 

Tubular web 185 

Tuck cam 149 

Tuck presser work S3 
Tuck stitch 135, 176 

Tucking the stitch 98 

Turning-ofT machine 345 

Two-line machines 345 

Two-tlu-ead finishing machines 318 

elasticity in seam 318 

U 

Union special Dewees trimmer 325 

adjusting needle with looper 326 

adjusting nipper springs 327 

adjusting toggles 326 

take-up 327 

tensions 327 

Union special finisher 336 
Union special single needle ornamental 

machine 343 

Union special twin-needle machine 344 

Universal winder on knitting machine 102 

W 

Welt 136, 177 

Widening 230 

Willcox & Gibbs finisher 338 

Willcox & Gibbs lock stitch machine 335 

Willcox & Gibbs overlock machine 328 

adjusting 329 

setting the trimmer 331 

sharpening the cutters 331 

tension 329 

Midth of seam 329 

Winder 233 



877 



VIII 



INDEX 



Page 



Winding yarn 
Woolen cut system 
Woolen run system 
Worm gear take-up 
Worsted count system 
Worsted yarns, numbering of 



Yarn 

determining weight of 

hard 
Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 



12 


Yarn 


31 


knots in 


28 


winding 


40 


Yarn carrier 


35 


Yarn guide 


35 


adjusting 




fitting 




Yarn reel 


26 




12 


Zigzfq- machines 



Page 

180 
12 

209 
124, 187, 209 

158 

150 
32 



378 



